2003 CL 6 speed in a 2004 Odyssey
09-07-2016, 11:11 AM
#41
Instructor
Thread Starter
The Ody's upper strut mounts are built into the firewall/cowl. It's pretty rigid already.
Last edited by johnboy1313; 09-07-2016 at 11:18 AM.
09-07-2016, 07:17 PM
#43
Senior Moderator
Nice hood support 
remove the hood? 
remove the hood?
09-07-2016, 07:19 PM
#44
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Thread Starter
09-07-2016, 07:57 PM
#45
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Well, I instinctively wanted to call 
on this dreamer dreaming of a build... But then he went and actually started doing it.
Soooo.... Ghetto subbed for moar!
Good luck OP, I'm pulling for you. Let me know if you need a goat sacrificed for automotive fortune.
on this dreamer dreaming of a build... But then he went and actually started doing it.Soooo.... Ghetto subbed for moar!
Good luck OP, I'm pulling for you. Let me know if you need a goat sacrificed for automotive fortune.
09-08-2016, 07:39 PM
#48
Instructor
Thread Starter
If there's one thing I can't stress enough. When doing something like this, go to Harbor Freight and get the $6 can of zip ties. I think I got this one six years ago for half price because the plastic kid was broken. They are the jam. For real.
09-08-2016, 09:04 PM
#50
Instructor
Thread Starter
Not a whole lot to report tonight folks. Got the engine wiring and power steering disconnected and tucked outta the way. I've still got the throttle cable, exhaust, shifter cable, transmission wiring, break booster vacuum, and heater plumbing to disconnect. Not to mention the wheels, ball joints, and axles.
09-09-2016, 07:19 AM
#51
Any plans to do some sort of wire tuck at all?
Would love to see how clean the engine bay would look with minimal wiring......however, leaving it as is would be impressive enough when you pop the hood and see what's hiding under there.
Would love to see how clean the engine bay would look with minimal wiring......however, leaving it as is would be impressive enough when you pop the hood and see what's hiding under there.
almost spat my coffee out!
09-09-2016, 08:25 AM
#56
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"Would you drive that car? I'd drive that car. I'd drive that car hard. I'd drive that car so hard."
09-09-2016, 10:10 AM
#57
Instructor
Thread Starter
So, I'm at the point of ordering parts for the 3.2. I'm going to get the Gates belt kit and probably the Asin water pump. What seals should I get and what manufacturer? I'm looking at the Timken front and rear crank seals and cam seals. In a perfect world, I'd do the clutch while I've got the engine out However, I'll probably have a look at it and make the decision then. I'm hoping to not have to touch it. In fact, I will admit that I am intimidated by the special tools needed.
What else should I pay attention to while I've got the engine on the stand?
What else should I pay attention to while I've got the engine on the stand?
Last edited by johnboy1313; 09-09-2016 at 10:15 AM.
09-09-2016, 10:19 AM
#58
Senior Moderator
If it were me, I'd probably stick with Honda OEM seals
Valve adjustment, tune up, new plugs seals, valve cover gaskets, Cam and crank seals, rear and front main seals. Maybe throw some carb cleaner on the Intake manifold and clean the EGR port while it's out. New TB gasket as well.
just throwing ideas out
Valve adjustment, tune up, new plugs seals, valve cover gaskets, Cam and crank seals, rear and front main seals. Maybe throw some carb cleaner on the Intake manifold and clean the EGR port while it's out. New TB gasket as well.
just throwing ideas out
09-09-2016, 10:36 AM
#59
The Aisin water pump actually has larger impeller blades than the OEM Yamada water pump. It's the OEM-supplier on plenty of other Honda engines, so I'd feel perfectly fine using it. In fact, I am.
09-09-2016, 11:02 AM
#60
Instructor
Thread Starter
Alright, I've located OEM Honda cam seal, front and rear crank seals (are they different from main seals? I thought they were the same thing) and an OEM water pump seal. I've got a gates timing belt set and Aisin water pump as well. I'm also looking at springing for the LUK flywheel and clutch kit, as well as, the OEM Honda clutch tools.
All in, it looks like its gonna cost around $1000
I'll take care of the valve adjustment and tune up once the motor's in place.
All in, it looks like its gonna cost around $1000
I'll take care of the valve adjustment and tune up once the motor's in place.
09-09-2016, 11:07 AM
#61
3.5 psi
iTrader: (1)
Does the 3.2 start fine? They're pretty bulletproof engines. I would just do the basics - timing belt, water pump, valve adjustment, plugs & plug seals, clean the EGR ports and have a look at the rear main seal. Throw a light weight crank pulley on there too.
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09-09-2016, 11:10 AM
#62
Instructor
Thread Starter
I've read to use the OEM water pump seal even if you're using another pump. Do any of you know if they'll work together for sure?
The 3.2 starts and runs great. I've only driven it slowly up the driveway because the right lower control arm is bent and the strut is broken.
The 3.2 starts and runs great. I've only driven it slowly up the driveway because the right lower control arm is bent and the strut is broken.
09-09-2016, 11:17 AM
#63
Senior Moderator
Alright, I've located OEM Honda cam seal, front and rear crank seals (are they different from main seals? I thought they were the same thing) and an OEM water pump seal. I've got a gates timing belt set and Aisin water pump as well. I'm also looking at springing for the LUK flywheel and clutch kit, as well as, the OEM Honda clutch tools.
All in, it looks like its gonna cost around $1000
I'll take care of the valve adjustment and tune up once the motor's in place.
All in, it looks like its gonna cost around $1000
I'll take care of the valve adjustment and tune up once the motor's in place.
I have a used LCA right front that I bought a while ago.
If you're talking about the Ody, then I can't help
09-09-2016, 11:30 AM
#65
Instructor
Thread Starter
I went ahead and ordered the timing belt parts and seals. I'm going to hold off on the clutch and tools until I know I need it. It cut the price from $1000 to less than $200.
09-09-2016, 12:23 PM
#66
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
OIL PUMP - OIL STRAINER for 2003 Acura CL COUPE
The rear main seal, #20 on the link below is the main culprit for leaking, which can occur at any time. I just had mine done when the clutch was changed back in Dec2015. The mechanic stated he put some RTV on the inner seat of the oil seal case assembly before pressing the seal in helps minimize potential leakage going forward; however, that remains to be seen.
CYLINDER BLOCK - OIL PAN for 2003 Acura CL COUPE
You can usually get the best price on the Luk08-047 clutch kit and/or the Luk DMF063 between Rockauto and Amazon. The clutch kit comes with the alignment tool. There is one expensive tool that the Helms recommends to use; 07AAE-P8E-A000 Pressure Plate Compressor; however, I'm told that the PP can be installed correctly without it.
Last edited by zeta; 09-09-2016 at 12:29 PM.
09-09-2016, 12:36 PM
#67
Instructor
Thread Starter
The crankshaft main seal on the timing belt side is #24 on the link below. These usually do not leak at the TB change interval; however, yours might be.
OIL PUMP - OIL STRAINER for 2003 Acura CL COUPE
The rear main seal, #20 on the link below is the main culprit for leaking, which can occur at any time. I just had mine done when the clutch was changed back in Dec2015. The mechanic stated he put some RTV on the inner seat of the oil seal case assembly before pressing the seal in helps minimize potential leakage going forward; however, that remains to be seen.
CYLINDER BLOCK - OIL PAN for 2003 Acura CL COUPE
You can usually get the best price on the Luk08-047 clutch kit and/or the Luk DMF063 between Rockauto and Amazon. The clutch kit comes with the alignment tool. There is one expensive tool that the Helms recommends to use; 07AAE-P8E-A000 Pressure Plate Compressor; however, I'm told that the PP can be installed correctly without it.
OIL PUMP - OIL STRAINER for 2003 Acura CL COUPE
The rear main seal, #20 on the link below is the main culprit for leaking, which can occur at any time. I just had mine done when the clutch was changed back in Dec2015. The mechanic stated he put some RTV on the inner seat of the oil seal case assembly before pressing the seal in helps minimize potential leakage going forward; however, that remains to be seen.
CYLINDER BLOCK - OIL PAN for 2003 Acura CL COUPE
You can usually get the best price on the Luk08-047 clutch kit and/or the Luk DMF063 between Rockauto and Amazon. The clutch kit comes with the alignment tool. There is one expensive tool that the Helms recommends to use; 07AAE-P8E-A000 Pressure Plate Compressor; however, I'm told that the PP can be installed correctly without it.
09-09-2016, 12:42 PM
#68
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Press the link, when 'page not found' window opens, go to the address bar and delete all of the acurazine bullshit up to the acuraoemparts.com address, and it will take you there.
Last edited by zeta; 09-09-2016 at 12:48 PM.
09-09-2016, 01:08 PM
#69
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09-10-2016, 05:22 PM
#70
Instructor
Thread Starter
Everything is disconnected now except the motor and transmission mounts. I'm done for the night. Gonna put my tools away and hang out with the kids. Stay tuned tomorrow for pics of the freshly liberated engine and transmission.
09-10-2016, 08:40 PM
#73
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09-10-2016, 09:36 PM
#74
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Damn. You just get busy don't you?
09-10-2016, 09:44 PM
#75
09-11-2016, 07:33 AM
#77
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Thread Starter
me either.
09-12-2016, 07:13 PM
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