brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I understand now. I forgot Reese has LWFW, while I am running light weight crank pulley. The LWFW should free up more power than the pulley.

bigdaddyKA8

iTrader: (5)

Like I mentioned much props on this build and it's progress. Like others have said it is inspiring me to do some projects. Here's some good for thought after reading the build. For weight reduction purposes I would completely remove those plates across the rear seat beam that you cut up. They are just added to our cars for reinforcement but you have done plenty of other upgrades to assist with that. Then concerning the front and rear bumper support beams maybe chopping them in half and leaving just enough to support the bumper. And I agree it is a lot thicker than what I've seen on most cars, and I basically live at my local junkyards! The second suggestion is about the RJ lip. There are members in previous sale threads that have looked for partial kits without the front. I would try that route and see if anyone bites since you could lower the price as well. Lastly if you were just using the flanges of the ct headers why not use some excess headers and not chop them up? I know weld quality was mentioned by previous owners but Scott could have rechecked or fixed weak spots while making your custom set up right? And the other headers may not be scrap. I know you trust King Motorsports but you look like the type of person who could try to make them fit. Once it gets warmer out try the fitment at home and see what your hurdles are. They may be able to fit with some minor tweaking?? Again congrats and keep up the good work!

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Thnx for kind words. I actually removed those 2 cross-beams before I brought the car in for roll cage, so that is done. I think I will leave bumper beams alone. If it ever is a full track car I might remove them. You saw ppl wanting the Ron jon kit minus the rear, or do you mean the TL lip kit? I have ppl interested in the full kit, but not local. I couldn't find a decent shipping price.

I wanted King to do a full custom header but they didn't seem to want to. I didn't want to pick up the car still with unmodified comptechs. They used the comptech header manifolds, just not the downpipe. That is why I am saying the manifolds might be restriction. The exhaust is done so can't go back now. I have a few ppl interested in the headers. They are waiting for me to get them back and provide shipping quote. Don't think I'll try re-installing long tube headers. It would have been nice to get money back for comptech, but no reason to dwell on it now.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I was just wondering if relocating the IAT sensor from the IM to the intake tube might free up a few hp. I could remove the modified comptechs and ceramic coat them. It would help with heat and maybe exhaust velocity. I could install aftermarket PS and Alternator pulleys and hope to free up 1-2 hp. P2R removed power steering and alternator I believe which frees up a few hp. Don't think I'll ever delete power steering though. I would like to find a quicker honda steering rack that will fit, but not sure where to even start. There is still so much left to do. It feels like I am climbing a mountain that never ends, but in a fun way.

teh CL

iTrader: (1)

About the IAT relocation from another site..

"It gives the sensor colder temp readings which the ecu responds with by fattening the fuel a bit."

I'm definitely gonna relocate it when I upgrade my intake

bigdaddyKA8

iTrader: (5)

Yup no point in dwelling on the headers and if they can still be put to good use then that's a bonus. What I was saying about the RJ kit is many people either love or hate the front lip so you could look into selling the sides and the rear and keeping the front to add a diffuser for the auto cross. And greyhound will prob be your best way of shipping that.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Yea I know what it does, just wondering how it translates on a dyno graph.

Yea I could look into greyhound. Seems like a hassle but might be worth it. I have never seen a car with a mix of ron jon and oem tl kits before. I am starting to lean more towards selling whole kit and making a custom piece out of aluminum to fill gap from splitter to the bumper.

BTW your PM box is full, tried messaging you. I will try again later.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I thought some of you might be interested in these. If you want a quality set of rear arms to adjust camber or toe, I would check these out. They are 50% off for Black Friday.
https://www.powertrix.com/group-buy/product/view/19/81

The only negative would be that they don't have dust boots like my Hardrace arms.

I also will have a DIY in the works soon that I think ppl on here will like. It will suit all CL's, not just autocross/track cars.

rush

iTrader: (1)

I think you should start a tread on (PARTS) websites only for this car cause i swear you find the best deals

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Thanks. I just do a lot of research and spend a lot of time reading car forums. I can't take all the credit. The deals change rapidly, so the thread would probably go out of date fast.

Btw, did you ever install those p2r headers on your car and dyno it?

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Talked to the shop today. They are just finishing up and i should pick it up early next week, depending on weather.

They weighed it. It came in at 2820 lbs.

Stock weight is 3446, so that is a reduction of 626 lbs. I think that is pretty good for still having A/C, Heater, OEM glass, OEM flywheel, OEM rear spolier, and Roll Bar added. I am not sure how much gas was in the tank.

There is about 10-15 lbs I still need to add back to the car, but I will also remove another 10 or so. It should roughly equal out.

If you use this calculator with my weight and wheel hp numbers, the 1/4 time comes out to 12.71 seconds. I think that is rather optimistic.
1/4 Mile ET Calculator

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

congrats! that's a lot of weight removed. How much do you think A/C components weigh?

Ya that calculator is only using two variables and we all know there are more. What about wtq? fwd/awd/rwd. With your weight removal you should be able to get some nice 60' times which is key. Is there a strip near you?

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

AC is probably another 80ish pounds. Going with an Aasco flywheel will drop another 20-30lbs (IIRC, the dual mass FW is ~40lbs).

CLassy02

Damn Brian! That is really damn good weight loss! Well done sir.

Allout

Nice! So what do you think that weight reduction translates to as far as a WHP equivalent? I'm guessing if you were still 3446 lbs, you would have to add 75-100 WHP to get similar 1/4 mile gains. I know on the track, there is no equivalent to the weight reduction.

rush

iTrader: (1)

Btw, did you ever install those p2r headers on your car and dyno it?[/QUOTE]
Yes its been installed with a custom 3'' exhaust system. i never got to dynoing the car yet been a lil busy with work but i can say ill never go back to those baby headers or a 3.2 motor . its just a night and day difference between those upgrades. ill give you an idea 2012 BMW 335i (Jb4, no cats,straight pipe + more) claims 429whp(I've seen the dyno vids) cant get pass my quarter panel and im only on 3psi for now. don't know whats wrong with my e mange blue cant even start the car

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I was thinking A/C would be more around 40-50 lbs. RP should know. There is a strip in Joliet, but I have never been there.

I am almost down to the curb weight of the FR-S.

Thanks

For 1/4 mile I have always heard 100 lbs is worth .1 second. If that is true then .6 to .7 seconds faster.

Yes its been installed with a custom 3'' exhaust system. i never got to dynoing the car yet been a lil busy with work but i can say ill never go back to those baby headers or a 3.2 motor . its just a night and day difference between those upgrades. ill give you an idea 2012 BMW 335i (Jb4, no cats,straight pipe + more) claims 429whp(I've seen the dyno vids) cant get pass my quarter panel and im only on 3psi for now. don't know whats wrong with my e mange blue cant even start the car[/QUOTE]

Ah so stroked and supercharged, must be fun.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

FTFY

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I see what you did there.

Good thing it is easier to remove weight than add power.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

I want to get mine weighed, but I think I stripped out around 90lbs with very little done. The exhaust saved about 35lbs alone, suspension was about 4lbs per corner, and the wheels were about the same. I deleted the rear seat as well and that was about 22lbs.

There's a few little things I'm looking at picking up to pull out more weight too; and I've been toying with replacing the seats again. The Recaros are really comfortable but weigh the same as stock; about 35lbs each. I wouldn't mind a fixed back seat, I just need to find one (two) I like. I'm not going to go to the extent of some other owners, but there are guys out there down to 2300lbs.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

That is one light weight rear seat. You can check out the ASM Recaro's, like my driver seat. Here is link to site I ordered from. They are pricey, but really comfortable.
Go Tuning Unlimited

Compared to all other products ASM sells, the seats seem like the best deals.

I just got back from picking up the car. All the work King Motorsports did is top notch. The exhaust looks even more amazing in person and so does the roll bar.

The exhaust seems rather loud.

The bill was a little more than I hoped, but kind of expected. My final bill came out to 10.5k.

I will post more info on everything that was done with pics when I get a chance.

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

Yikes that's a lot! Looking forward to pics and reviews. Guess you have a clutch to break in though.
I will probably add a vibrant ultra quiet resonator in the spring as my exhaust is also too loud for me.

teh CL

iTrader: (1)

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

They did do quite a bit of work. I didn't post everything they did. Most of that price is labor. 107 hours @ 75 hour. I was told they didn't charge me for after dyno or corner balancing.

Corner balance info:

Weight with 1/2 tank gas: 2823 lbs

Corner balanced with 142 lb Driver 2965 lbs

Before Weights:

FL-989 FR-920
RL-513 RR-543

Target Weights:

FL-967 FR-941
RL-534 RR-521

Final Weights:

FL-969 FR-942
RL-531 RR-523

They got the Final Weights really close to the targets. If you do the calculations it comes out to 64% front, 36% rear weight bias.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I need to decide what color to paint the roll bar. I am thinking satin or matte black. I think something like red might stand out too much, and silver would be too boring.

Any suggestions?

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Going to order some Harness Guide Collars to hold the harness in place on the roll bar.

Here are 3 options I need to choose from:

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/Sho...oductID%3d1446

Split Collar for Harness Bar-Stable Energies

McMaster-Carr

Ponto

I would say satin black. Crazy to spend that much but I admire the build!

HairyMonkey019

iTrader: (7)

Blue roll cages always look good, not sure if it's your taste though.
If you want to have your car color theme, you might as well get the roll cage in a "gold" color due to you having plenty of gold reflective tape in the bay

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Definitely not going with gold. The gold tape is for heat reflection, not looks. It is only on the intake tube, not the entire bay.

Blue actually sounds good, just not sure it would match anything else. My car is mainly silver and black with a few red accents.

Color is not something I spend much time thinking about. I think black, red, or blue are good choices.

On my Focus I am going with a black and bronze theme.

I am working on cleaning and organizing my garage before I begin working on the car. It looks like there will be a few days next week in the 40's. Hopefully I can wash it and take it for a drive.

I need to keep the roll bar coated in wd-40 to prevent it from rusting till I have weather allowing me to paint outside.

I was thinking of removing some more metal/weight from the car, but think I will pass. I don't want to make the corner balance worthless.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Part 2 of my sale threads posted.
https://acurazine.com/forums/car-par.../#post15261839

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I have been thinking more about color theme. I am thinking of maybe trying to paint the roll bar Takata green to match my harnesses. I have always wanted a set of Takata green rims so maybe that can also be an option. What do you guys think? Does silver and green go fine together or clash?

Other colors I would consider is black, blue, or red.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Thinking out loud here about wheels and tires.


For wheels I would look for something 17 or 18". 8.5-9" wide. Offset +40 to +50.

My current wheels are 18x8.5 +52 with 255/35/18 Star Spec tires.

Want to get a BBK and my current wheels might not clear.

Thinking of maybe going with a reverse staggered setup(wider in front than rear). Another option would be just going with wider tires in the front. A third option would be going with stickier tires in front. Could also do a combination of the above. The point is that you want more grip in the front and less in the rear for rotation.

It is also a good idea to do this with brake pads also. More aggressive pad compound in the front than the rear.

For the front wheels I would look for something 9" wide and offset of +40 to +45. My current wheels barely clear the front suspension so with a 9" wide I need to be +45 or lower offset.

Wheels I would consider:

Could get the Volk TE37 in Takata Green from Japan in 18x9 +45 for the front or all 4 corners.

Another option is Volk TE37 SL Black Edition (black/yellow) in 17x9 +45 or 18x9 +45.

Volk TE37 SL (graphite/red) in 18x9 +45.

Volk TE37 SL Pressed Double Black in 18x9 +45.

Volk ZE40 in 18x9 +45 and 18x8.5 +42. I am thinking about asking if they can make me a custom color.

SSR GTF01 in 18x9 +45 and 18x8.5 +44.

Don't know if I want to spend that much on wheels. Also don't know if I want to go staggered or have different kind of wheels with different colors front to back.

Could just buy 2 front wheels and tires and use my current wheels and tires for the rear.

Thinking for autocross, for my fronts, I can have the option of using my current wheels with star spec tires or bring another pair of wheels with a "streetable" DOT legal track tire.

Could try fitting 265/35/18 up front but might rub.

Some options for 265 would be Michelin Pilot Sport Cup, Pirelli P Zero Corsa, or Pirelli Trofeo R.

Not as many options in 255/35/18. Toyo Proxes 888 is one.

In 245/40/18 there is Pirelli Trofeo R.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Wanted to post these exhaust pics for Gnuts who was wondering about ground clearance. The ground clearance might be an issue with the big 6" round resonator. The rear pipe section is kind of low also, the front is fine. I am worried about speed bumps. It was fine on the long ride home. I think the 2 low points are only 3-4" off the ground.

Also wanted to post pics of my rear emblem. Purchased a OEM DC2 Integra Type R rear emblem. The emblem is rather flat which is a problem. The CL trunk has a lot more curve to it. I used my trusty dremel and modified the rear of the emblem to fit the curve of the CL trunk. It turned out great and now I have a CL Type R . Hehe J/K.

Don't mind how dirty the car is.

Front of car pic.


Comptech Header Manifolds welded to 2.25" V-Bands.


Best pic I could get on phone of 30" x 6" Magnaflow Resonator.


Rear Pipe section.


Rear Pipe & Mufller.




Muffler & Emblem




Rear Emblem

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

looks nice! that does sit pretty low. i think i'm going to try and fit something in before the Y split - i guess where the oem resonator sits. Ideally i'd put an ultraquiet in there, but i'm not sure it would fit.
Thing is i feel like the resonance i'm not liking is towards the front of the exhaust. But maybe it just feels that way since i'm sitting at the front end?

zeta

iTrader: (1)

King did a fine job, indeed.

We need (vids) to see/hear this thing in action ASAP, hehe.

Well done and congrats

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Thanks. The resonance sound does seem to come from the front, yes. The Magnaflow on mine is about as big as possible in one muffler. I provided King with a 3" Vibrant ultra quiet resonator, but they did not use it and ordered the Magnaflow instead.

Thanks. I want to hear it as much as you. Should be able to do something this weekend. Just need to clean up interior and install lexan moonroof panel. Then I can drive it.

CLassy02

I love how simple and clean the rear of your car is.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Did a little metal removal before getting roll bar installed. Glad I did, because the 2 rear brackets would be in the way of the roll bar. The roll bar wouldn't have been as snug to the roof.

The weight removal is .33 lbs.

Passenger handle bracket removed.


Moonroof frame brackets that were removed(4 in total).




Removed brackets

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Been thinking more about color. After thinking about it, Takata green seems like a bad idea. It doesn't really go with silver, and is too common/ricey.

Think I have it narrowed down to black or blue.

I really like this color of blue you can get the Volk TE37SL in. It is hyper/prototype blue. Think it would match my Hardrace suspension arms and could try to match roll bar to it. The theme would be silver/blue/red.


Pic for comparison.


I also really like the new ZE40 wheels, but only color option is this Mag Blue.

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

Nice work on the weight reduction Brian, quite impressive. That blue on those Volks is gorgeous