03 Acura Cl type s turbo
#1
03 Acura Cl type s turbo
I'm new here and don't know if anyone posts anymore but I had a hard time finding turbo builds for my car and figured I would share what I have done so other people can know it is possible to do.
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justnspace (07-28-2015)
#3
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Imagine that you've just came home from a long stint in the local prison.
your smokin' hot 'betty' has been writing you and sending you pictures for god knows how long. you lost count on how many days, weeks, months, years you've been locked away. the only thing that has given you hope from all these long, hard years is your dedicated sexy girl.
except, she doesnt want you any more.
yeah, that's exactly how we feel...
your smokin' hot 'betty' has been writing you and sending you pictures for god knows how long. you lost count on how many days, weeks, months, years you've been locked away. the only thing that has given you hope from all these long, hard years is your dedicated sexy girl.
except, she doesnt want you any more.
yeah, that's exactly how we feel...
#5
Team Owner
Cock tease!
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#12
At work right now so I'll add details but definitely real 😁 sorry didn't know if I posted right on this forum of it was still used because o tried looking around and saw old dates for posts.
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justnspace (07-29-2015)
#17
First I started out with a kit for a Honda Accord from XS power. They kit was cheap and figured I'd upgrade to name brand later after I fabricated and tested it all. I was hoping that the kit would fit about the same since even though it's a 3.0 it was still a J-series but I was wayyy wrong. Plus everything that was listed that came in the kit didn't come together and most of there stuff wasn't straight or the correct part like the waistgate. I had to cut and torch and reposition stuff but the down pipe was basically correct just a little finesse to it to fit. I got a eBay waistgate and some piping too. Down side though is I had to use they stock headers but wasn't too bad. Still good flow. Made a pillar pod myself and flipped the storage tray in front of my shifter just below the ash tray over and cut two holes in that for two more pods. Also I welded two bungs into the oil pan for a return line and oil temp. I used a t fitting off the oil pressure sensor and put a second one in for my gauge and then for the oil feed line. Had to pull the lower radiator hose towards the engine a little too. As for the front mount intercooler I had to remove the vibration dampener off the bumper and get a new power steering cooler that I mounted to the intercooler. For relocation of the battery you need to get OFC 0g now CCA or anything less than 0g or you will have a slow crank. I dialed the waist gate in to run 6psi because the engine can self adjust to 6psi but nothing more with the map sensor before you have to tune. Sadly I have read you can't tune this ECU so you would have to go to something like megasquirt or something. I make decent power as is and when accelerating from 1st from a role, when vtec ingages the tires break lose. As far as modifying that kit I had to twist the pipe that connects the two headers because the flanges do not match up and then I had to lower and angle the turbo base and weld a new flange and extension onto the downpipe. Sorry if this is out of order but I'm explaining all that I did from my head to help others. If you have any questions ask away.
#18
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
AEM EMS Acura CL Type S 01-03
RJ 6Poseidon 6 has his CT supercharged 6speed tuned by King Motorsports in Orlando, FL with this unit. In fact, that is his dyno depicted on the dezod site.
#19
The forum is dead, but ppl will post if you have a turbo or are slammed on vip wheels yo. They also like street racing yo.
You should get some replies.
People complain about cock teasing, but that is a good marketing tool to get interest and replies in a thread.
On a side note, please polish those headlights.
You should get some replies.
People complain about cock teasing, but that is a good marketing tool to get interest and replies in a thread.
On a side note, please polish those headlights.
Last edited by brian6speed; 07-30-2015 at 07:20 AM.
#21
Sweet so there is a easy way for tuning. And that place is just an hour alway. And I plan on refinishing the headlights when I have the car painted. Going to try to take it to the bithlo drag strip in fl to see what it can do maybe next week. Anyone know where I can post parts for sale? Like a good place. Have a carbon fiber hood and trunk, also tl tubular headers and my old lowering springs. Thank! 😁
#22
#23
Sweet! And the kit came with all the piping and intercooler but I had to buy one more 2.5" 90 off eBay and a adaptor from 2.5"-3" to connect to the throttle body.
http://xs-power.com/acura-honda-turbokits-16.htm
http://xs-power.com/acura-honda-turbokits-16.htm
#29
Yeah it was bout that. If you want everything all the way down to my battery relation and pillar pod I mad the total is $858. Not to bad I think!
Turbo kit $498
Aluminum 90 $15
Rubber 90 $9
35mm waistgate $65
Oil feed bung $5
Oil temp bung $5
Gauges $50
Gauge pods $12
Coolant overflow tank $20
Power wire $80
Air filter $50
Oil catch can $38
Oil inlet $11
Turbo kit $498
Aluminum 90 $15
Rubber 90 $9
35mm waistgate $65
Oil feed bung $5
Oil temp bung $5
Gauges $50
Gauge pods $12
Coolant overflow tank $20
Power wire $80
Air filter $50
Oil catch can $38
Oil inlet $11
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m_rgaan (08-01-2015)
#30
Yeah it was bout that. If you want everything all the way down to my battery relation and pillar pod I mad the total is $858. Not to bad I think!
Turbo kit $498
Aluminum 90 $15
Rubber 90 $9
35mm waistgate $65
Oil feed bung $5
Oil temp bung $5
Gauges $50
Gauge pods $12
Coolant overflow tank $20
Power wire $80
Air filter $50
Oil catch can $38
Oil inlet $11
Turbo kit $498
Aluminum 90 $15
Rubber 90 $9
35mm waistgate $65
Oil feed bung $5
Oil temp bung $5
Gauges $50
Gauge pods $12
Coolant overflow tank $20
Power wire $80
Air filter $50
Oil catch can $38
Oil inlet $11
Also, how does it handle 6 psi? Do you have to let it warm up quite a bit before running it?
#31
I got a cheaper waistgate off eBay with good cooling fins on it and I still into the turbo that came in the kit and ran the waistgate straight to that and set it so its at about 6psi. It runs great on it. I usually jump in and go but once the O2 starts reading when it's warmed up or else it will act funny. But only takes a matter of second to warm up. I think I just sputter because my heater circuit on my O2 is bad and I just need to get a new o2. When it's warmed up its great. And I got a gauge set by xtune to start with just so I can monitor everything. I have oil pressure, oil temp, boost, and air fuel ratio that I tapped into my primary O2. I tried using the direct message but it said it was full. I only have two messages in my inbox. But yeah I'm in Palm Bay FL. The only think I'm not liking is that after a bit of sitting the radiator cap releases pressure when the temp is fine. The downpipe it a few inches from the radiator but that's idling for 15-20min that it does that. I'm thinking about going to a true 1" thick radiator. Also I want to test out a 3bar map sensor to see if it reacts different to boost. Oh and I forgot to add I paid $90 for my fuel pump. Not sure if the stock one can hold up to it. Mine failed from age. Started whining.
#32
I got a cheaper waistgate off eBay with good cooling fins on it and I still into the turbo that came in the kit and ran the waistgate straight to that and set it so its at about 6psi. It runs great on it. I usually jump in and go but once the O2 starts reading when it's warmed up or else it will act funny. But only takes a matter of second to warm up. I think I just sputter because my heater circuit on my O2 is bad and I just need to get a new o2. When it's warmed up its great. And I got a gauge set by xtune to start with just so I can monitor everything. I have oil pressure, oil temp, boost, and air fuel ratio that I tapped into my primary O2. I tried using the direct message but it said it was full. I only have two messages in my inbox. But yeah I'm in Palm Bay FL. The only think I'm not liking is that after a bit of sitting the radiator cap releases pressure when the temp is fine. The downpipe it a few inches from the radiator but that's idling for 15-20min that it does that. I'm thinking about going to a true 1" thick radiator. Also I want to test out a 3bar map sensor to see if it reacts different to boost. Oh and I forgot to add I paid $90 for my fuel pump. Not sure if the stock one can hold up to it. Mine failed from age. Started whining.
#35
Yeah it was bout that. If you want everything all the way down to my battery relation and pillar pod I mad the total is $858. Not to bad I think!
Turbo kit $498
Aluminum 90 $15
Rubber 90 $9
35mm waistgate $65
Oil feed bung $5
Oil temp bung $5
Gauges $50
Gauge pods $12
Coolant overflow tank $20
Power wire $80
Air filter $50
Oil catch can $38
Oil inlet $11
Turbo kit $498
Aluminum 90 $15
Rubber 90 $9
35mm waistgate $65
Oil feed bung $5
Oil temp bung $5
Gauges $50
Gauge pods $12
Coolant overflow tank $20
Power wire $80
Air filter $50
Oil catch can $38
Oil inlet $11
The wife wants me to sell the CLS since I have the RL but it would make the perfect track day/backup car. More updates please.
#36
Drives amazing! I'm a little disappointed though I lost power when I wrapped the waistgate back to the downpipe but I need to readjust the fuel and waistgate and see how it does. I kinda want to dump it again but prepping to move to CO which has emissions :/
#38
Nice! My kit just came in yesterday! I messaged you on here and on instagram but I got no response. I had a few questions about modifying the kit and what else I needed. Hope you can get back to me soon bro!
#40
Rolling non boosted start was a 15. I have a larger turbo then I prob should and was running in the fuel. 55psi fuel was 15sec. 60psi was 15.9 so I adjusted to 50psi and was spooling at the launch and it got about maybe 25ft and snapped. I believe when it went into vtec because under boost that's when I get the most power