Quarter Mile Time Compilation
03-11-2009, 10:50 PM
#162
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so today i went to the track first time ever at the track for me, and well i ran some pretty shitty times with all the mods i have. here are my timeslips sorry for the shitty pics its from my camera phone.
Left lane
LEFT lane.
Left lane
Right lane
Left lane.
the best 1/4 time i had was 14.421 at 97.57 mph. anybody wanna comment and let me know why my times suck.
mods are : atlp quad exhaust, atlp race pipe, atlp j-pipe, r-v6 pre cats, aem cai, ur crank pulley, tb spacer, IM gaskets. tein ss. i ran on stock rims and tires.
Left lane
LEFT lane.
Left lane
Right lane
Left lane.
the best 1/4 time i had was 14.421 at 97.57 mph. anybody wanna comment and let me know why my times suck.
mods are : atlp quad exhaust, atlp race pipe, atlp j-pipe, r-v6 pre cats, aem cai, ur crank pulley, tb spacer, IM gaskets. tein ss. i ran on stock rims and tires.
03-11-2009, 11:38 PM
#164
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Stock rims & tires for one.
What was the temp? Above 70* and it'll be a bit slower. Humidity and elevation will have an effect too. Track conditions are also important.
Remove misc weight - spare tire, tool kit, floor mats, owners manual, misc junk.
You could run 14.0/14.1 or better if you get the right track in the right conditions.
VSA Off & don't hit the limiter, not even for a split second.
Somehow we've got to get our 60' down below 2.2x. At least to 2.20.
Good runs - 60' is probably on the tires. 1/4 times more the conditions than the driver by the look of the slips.
What was the temp? Above 70* and it'll be a bit slower. Humidity and elevation will have an effect too. Track conditions are also important.
Remove misc weight - spare tire, tool kit, floor mats, owners manual, misc junk.
You could run 14.0/14.1 or better if you get the right track in the right conditions.
VSA Off & don't hit the limiter, not even for a split second.
Somehow we've got to get our 60' down below 2.2x. At least to 2.20.
Good runs - 60' is probably on the tires. 1/4 times more the conditions than the driver by the look of the slips.
03-12-2009, 03:29 PM
#165
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Stock rims & tires for one.
What was the temp? Above 70* and it'll be a bit slower. Humidity and elevation will have an effect too. Track conditions are also important.
Remove misc weight - spare tire, tool kit, floor mats, owners manual, misc junk.
You could run 14.0/14.1 or better if you get the right track in the right conditions.
VSA Off & don't hit the limiter, not even for a split second.
Somehow we've got to get our 60' down below 2.2x. At least to 2.20.
Good runs - 60' is probably on the tires. 1/4 times more the conditions than the driver by the look of the slips.
What was the temp? Above 70* and it'll be a bit slower. Humidity and elevation will have an effect too. Track conditions are also important.
Remove misc weight - spare tire, tool kit, floor mats, owners manual, misc junk.
You could run 14.0/14.1 or better if you get the right track in the right conditions.
VSA Off & don't hit the limiter, not even for a split second.
Somehow we've got to get our 60' down below 2.2x. At least to 2.20.
Good runs - 60' is probably on the tires. 1/4 times more the conditions than the driver by the look of the slips.
. so im hoping that when i go tomorrow, with vsa off and some weight reduction that i can post up some much better times.
03-12-2009, 08:49 PM
#166
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lol, VSA robs a lot of time man. It essentially applies brakes and cut off gas when it senses the wheelslip. In other words, when your tires slip, the car stops accelerating for a split second, then rpm drops back down, you will have to wait for the engine to get up to speed since there's not as much torque/power at low rpm.
Better luck tomorrow!
Better luck tomorrow!
03-12-2009, 11:13 PM
#167
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lol, VSA robs a lot of time man. It essentially applies brakes and cut off gas when it senses the wheelslip. In other words, when your tires slip, the car stops accelerating for a split second, then rpm drops back down, you will have to wait for the engine to get up to speed since there's not as much torque/power at low rpm.
Better luck tomorrow!
Better luck tomorrow!
03-13-2009, 04:15 AM
#169
Senior Moderator
03-13-2009, 08:28 AM
#170
Instructor
Here are a couple of things.... I took my Type S to the track 1 time last year however I have been drag racing for the past 15 years with my other (toy) cars.
The 5AT TLS leaves very soft from the line. Im not sure how you launch your car but first off do not drive through the water if you can avoid it (some tracks you have to drive thru it). When you get to the pre stage light creep forward just enough till the staged light comes on... this will stage you deeper and give you a slight "head start" should I call it. Sit on the line with your left foot on the brake but do not brake torque the car.... instead mash the gas on green while letting off the brake at the same time, this will result in flashing the converter a bit which will slingshot the car forward. As far as stock tires I think you should be fine as a bit of wheel spin may actually help get the RPM's up (not a blazing, tire frying burnout but a light hazing). The track I race at is notorious for amazing track preperation so I had no wheel spin at all.... on the street I get a little bit and the car just feels like it leaves waaaay better on the street. I noticed the best results just leaving the car in D vs. paddle/sport shifting the car. My best slip (its posted on this thread #101) was as follows.
Nov 1st 2008
2007 Type S 5AT bone stock (no weight reduction and 1/2 tank of fuel)
R/T...... .797
60'....... 2.217
330'..... 6.189
1/8...... 9.42
MPH..... 75.85
1000'.... 12.205
1/4....... 14.540
MPH...... 97.23
I had a good cool day with a DA (density altitude) that was consistent with the true elevation of the track I was at reading right at 700' above sea level.
If you have the chance while you are at the track try to ask one of the more hard core racers if they know the DA.... most of these guys have a weather station type device with them as they data log every run and DA plays a big factor in dialing in their cars etc.... The lower the DA the better your car is going to run.
Good Luck
The 5AT TLS leaves very soft from the line. Im not sure how you launch your car but first off do not drive through the water if you can avoid it (some tracks you have to drive thru it). When you get to the pre stage light creep forward just enough till the staged light comes on... this will stage you deeper and give you a slight "head start" should I call it. Sit on the line with your left foot on the brake but do not brake torque the car.... instead mash the gas on green while letting off the brake at the same time, this will result in flashing the converter a bit which will slingshot the car forward. As far as stock tires I think you should be fine as a bit of wheel spin may actually help get the RPM's up (not a blazing, tire frying burnout but a light hazing). The track I race at is notorious for amazing track preperation so I had no wheel spin at all.... on the street I get a little bit and the car just feels like it leaves waaaay better on the street. I noticed the best results just leaving the car in D vs. paddle/sport shifting the car. My best slip (its posted on this thread #101) was as follows.
Nov 1st 2008
2007 Type S 5AT bone stock (no weight reduction and 1/2 tank of fuel)
R/T...... .797
60'....... 2.217
330'..... 6.189
1/8...... 9.42
MPH..... 75.85
1000'.... 12.205
1/4....... 14.540
MPH...... 97.23
I had a good cool day with a DA (density altitude) that was consistent with the true elevation of the track I was at reading right at 700' above sea level.
If you have the chance while you are at the track try to ask one of the more hard core racers if they know the DA.... most of these guys have a weather station type device with them as they data log every run and DA plays a big factor in dialing in their cars etc.... The lower the DA the better your car is going to run.
Good Luck
03-13-2009, 11:08 AM
#171
Here are a couple of things.... I took my Type S to the track 1 time last year however I have been drag racing for the past 15 years with my other (toy) cars.
The 5AT TLS leaves very soft from the line. Im not sure how you launch your car but first off do not drive through the water if you can avoid it (some tracks you have to drive thru it). When you get to the pre stage light creep forward just enough till the staged light comes on... this will stage you deeper and give you a slight "head start" should I call it. Sit on the line with your left foot on the brake but do not brake torque the car.... instead mash the gas on green while letting off the brake at the same time, this will result in flashing the converter a bit which will slingshot the car forward. As far as stock tires I think you should be fine as a bit of wheel spin may actually help get the RPM's up (not a blazing, tire frying burnout but a light hazing). The track I race at is notorious for amazing track preperation so I had no wheel spin at all.... on the street I get a little bit and the car just feels like it leaves waaaay better on the street. I noticed the best results just leaving the car in D vs. paddle/sport shifting the car. My best slip (its posted on this thread #101) was as follows.
Nov 1st 2008
2007 Type S 5AT bone stock (no weight reduction and 1/2 tank of fuel)
R/T...... .797
60'....... 2.217
330'..... 6.189
1/8...... 9.42
MPH..... 75.85
1000'.... 12.205
1/4....... 14.540
MPH...... 97.23
I had a good cool day with a DA (density altitude) that was consistent with the true elevation of the track I was at reading right at 700' above sea level.
If you have the chance while you are at the track try to ask one of the more hard core racers if they know the DA.... most of these guys have a weather station type device with them as they data log every run and DA plays a big factor in dialing in their cars etc.... The lower the DA the better your car is going to run.
Good Luck
The 5AT TLS leaves very soft from the line. Im not sure how you launch your car but first off do not drive through the water if you can avoid it (some tracks you have to drive thru it). When you get to the pre stage light creep forward just enough till the staged light comes on... this will stage you deeper and give you a slight "head start" should I call it. Sit on the line with your left foot on the brake but do not brake torque the car.... instead mash the gas on green while letting off the brake at the same time, this will result in flashing the converter a bit which will slingshot the car forward. As far as stock tires I think you should be fine as a bit of wheel spin may actually help get the RPM's up (not a blazing, tire frying burnout but a light hazing). The track I race at is notorious for amazing track preperation so I had no wheel spin at all.... on the street I get a little bit and the car just feels like it leaves waaaay better on the street. I noticed the best results just leaving the car in D vs. paddle/sport shifting the car. My best slip (its posted on this thread #101) was as follows.
Nov 1st 2008
2007 Type S 5AT bone stock (no weight reduction and 1/2 tank of fuel)
R/T...... .797
60'....... 2.217
330'..... 6.189
1/8...... 9.42
MPH..... 75.85
1000'.... 12.205
1/4....... 14.540
MPH...... 97.23
I had a good cool day with a DA (density altitude) that was consistent with the true elevation of the track I was at reading right at 700' above sea level.
If you have the chance while you are at the track try to ask one of the more hard core racers if they know the DA.... most of these guys have a weather station type device with them as they data log every run and DA plays a big factor in dialing in their cars etc.... The lower the DA the better your car is going to run.
Good Luck
Nice time! Great info as well. I have also found out that just mashing the gas works better off the line than a brake torque.
03-13-2009, 03:58 PM
#173
Team Owner
60' is one of the most driver oriented parts of drag racing. You need to practice the launch. If you're just pinning the gas to the floor with no wheelspin, then there's nothing you can do with the current setup. Judging from the way my TL leaves even when it dead hooks, there's just not enough power there for something better than a 2.3+.
03-13-2009, 11:09 PM
#175
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03-13-2009, 11:33 PM
#176
All motor
60' is one of the most driver oriented parts of drag racing. You need to practice the launch. If you're just pinning the gas to the floor with no wheelspin, then there's nothing you can do with the current setup. Judging from the way my TL leaves even when it dead hooks, there's just not enough power there for something better than a 2.3+.
I'm going to Etown tomorrow, hoping to come back with some good times
03-13-2009, 11:35 PM
#177
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03-14-2009, 12:12 AM
#179
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Same as my personal best (so far): 14.374 @ 97.12; 2.230 60'. Basically stock.
Nice Job.
2.192 60' is nice too.
No on the brake torque over 2k.
I was reading somewhere today, that no brake torque and just hit the gas might be a faster launch.
03-14-2009, 05:29 PM
#180
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I think in Dave B's thread (the drag racing tips one) he said that it's not a good idea to brake torque our car. It's going to heat up the torque converter or something and causes the ECU to do weird stuff to make your car slower. He said that if you really want to brake torque, to it for no more than a second or so.
03-27-2009, 09:19 AM
#181
Senior Moderator
My son's new best time...
...albeit by a hair:
Car# 152
The other car was an R33 Nissan Skyline GT-S....which appears to have mis-shifted towards the end.
Car# 152
The other car was an R33 Nissan Skyline GT-S....which appears to have mis-shifted towards the end.
03-31-2009, 06:35 PM
#183
Damn I just went on dragtimes and saw that your son put down 275WTQ!! I knew those 3.5L were torquey but that is a great number. Just acheiving that 2.2 60ft im sure is a pain trying to gain traction. I wouldn't doubt a 1.9-2.0 with some grippy tires(drag radials).
04-01-2009, 12:36 AM
#185
2008 335i e92 6MT
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dang, after reading cubano's story and his mods, i'm guessing there's no hope for the base 5at breaking 13's with those mods NA LOL x_X
but what do you think is a realistic time/goal?
but what do you think is a realistic time/goal?
04-17-2009, 07:00 PM
#187
All motor
However, I am having a hard time believing the Altima 3.5 put down 275wtq. The G37s with the 3.7L do not even put out that much torque at the crank. Actually, the new generation of Mustangs barely put down that much wheel torque from the factory with the 4.6L V8.I don't want to seem like an ass and am not trying to create any trouble as I see you are noble and knowledgeable from your posts, I am just arguing numbers because there is absolutely no way that motor is putting out 275wtq from the factory...
Last edited by Sonnick; 04-17-2009 at 07:02 PM.
04-17-2009, 07:10 PM
#188
All motor
I hate that we can only edit a post 5 minutes after posting, that's screwed me up so many times. Anyway...I just looked at the dyno chart and it shows numbers exceeding crank torque below 3k RPMs..with peak (275wtq) at ~2800. The HP numbers seem right on, but the torque is just a little too nuts.
04-18-2009, 12:01 PM
#190
All motor
04-18-2009, 12:27 PM
#191
All motor
It's not even the fact that I don't believe it, it's just that it doesn't make sense. With like 250 crank torque from the factory it's just impossible that it's making 275 WHEEL torque. That's all I'm saying. In order for the Altima to be making that much torque, it'd need a lot of mods, and judging by the 1/4 trap speed, it doesn't have those mods. He ran a great time for a stock Altima I'm not saying he didn't, but it doesn't show 275wtq.
04-18-2009, 01:45 PM
#192
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Sonnick, check out this link,
http://www.dragtimes.com/Nissan--Alt...no-Sheets.html
There are 5 Altima's from 2002 - 2005, with samples from AT and MT. Some are modded. Most of them put down 200wtq to 225wtq.
In particular, you might want to take a look at this car,
http://www.dragtimes.com/Nissan-Alti...lip-13432.html
It's a 5MT model with no mods, and it puts down 225wtq and 221 whp.
http://www.dragtimes.com/Nissan--Alt...no-Sheets.html
There are 5 Altima's from 2002 - 2005, with samples from AT and MT. Some are modded. Most of them put down 200wtq to 225wtq.
In particular, you might want to take a look at this car,
http://www.dragtimes.com/Nissan-Alti...lip-13432.html
It's a 5MT model with no mods, and it puts down 225wtq and 221 whp.
04-18-2009, 02:55 PM
#193
All motor
Those numbers are more reasonable and pretty consistent. 275WTQ jumps off the page compared to those numbers. Either way the Altima is a nice car, puts down good power and nice torque
04-21-2009, 08:01 AM
#196
Senior Moderator
I hate that we can only edit a post 5 minutes after posting, that's screwed me up so many times. Anyway...I just looked at the dyno chart and it shows numbers exceeding crank torque below 3k RPMs..with peak (275wtq) at ~2800. The HP numbers seem right on, but the torque is just a little too nuts.
The torque numbers do seem out of whack. Aside from some sort of malfunction, I'm at a loss as to how he'd have 275 lb-ft at the wheels when the stock rating is in the the 245-255lb-ft ballpark at the crank.That notwithstanding, my son definitely has a good feel for running the strip. I deeply regret not getting a 6MT AV6 (instead of my 5AT) just to see how I'd fair against him AND how he'd do running the AV6.
04-21-2009, 05:45 PM
#197
All motor
The torque numbers do seem out of whack. Aside from some sort of malfunction, I'm at a loss as to how he'd have 275 lb-ft at the wheels when the stock rating is in the the 245-255lb-ft ballpark at the crank.That notwithstanding, my son definitely has a good feel for running the strip. I deeply regret not getting a 6MT AV6 (instead of my 5AT) just to see how I'd fair against him AND how he'd do running the AV6.
04-22-2009, 07:29 AM
#198
Senior Moderator
Just a caveat to my son's new best time; it reflects a couple of mods: custom midpipe, intake resonator removed and a block plate.
Yesterday, he had an aftermarket Y-pipe installed. I took it for a spin last night and I have to say that it does pull notably stronger and smoother than the stock setup. If he gets traction, I think a 13.8XX is doable.
EDIT: I think he plans on heading to Etown tonight for some time trials.
Yesterday, he had an aftermarket Y-pipe installed. I took it for a spin last night and I have to say that it does pull notably stronger and smoother than the stock setup. If he gets traction, I think a 13.8XX is doable.
EDIT: I think he plans on heading to Etown tonight for some time trials.
04-22-2009, 06:16 PM
#199
Suzuka Master
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^^He should look into some drag radials with all the time he spends at the track. I think he'd like them. I've thought about picking up a pair, but by the time I buy spare wheels and mount them etc, I can't really justify the cost since I might go once a year. Would be nice to be able to launch at 4k+ though.
04-22-2009, 08:10 PM
#200
All motor
Oh nice, some mods now. He should definitely be able to pull some high 13s with traction. I need to go back and best my 2.247 60' so I can run some 13s! I wanna get some custom piping and UR pulley to get my trap to 102+
F23a4 we gotta set something up for Etown. I graduate the 23rd of May so I'm good anytime after that.
F23a4 we gotta set something up for Etown. I graduate the 23rd of May so I'm good anytime after that.