what would happen if I don't replace the catalytic converter?
Mine just went totally dead for the past 3weeks and I cost too damn much to replace a new one. Would it ultimately harm the car's engine or intake system if I don't fix it in long run? Only negative I was told by a local mechannic was that it will just cause the engine light to stay on and won't past inspection, otherwise it won't do any harm to the car.
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-either gut the cat and get a spark plug defouler on it or an O2 simulator from www.o2sim.com
-get a high flow cat and put it in
-or get a test/race pipe and use the same thing as in suggestion #1
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How do you know the converter is bad? Are you just going by the light, or did your mechanic actually test the cat?
+1. Did he perform a backpressure test on it? What codes are being registered? Is the car driving sluggishly?
btw, it is always helpful to put the year and model of you car in your signature
anyways, coming from a BMW, failing catalytic converters were the norm around 100K miles. They typically fail from lack of maintenance, driving with the Check Engine light on or physical damage from running over something. The least expensive option to fix the problem would be having a muffler shop weld in a replacement catalytic converter. A good local shop shouldn't charge anymore than $45-50 for this.
Here is a weld-in model for a 97 3.0 non CA emissions for $247
I was just told by my mechanic that my catalytic converter is whacked. Something is loose inside, and it rattles badly in between 1500 and 3000 RPM - right in speed limit range! When I step on it and drive faster, the RPMs go up, and the rattle disappears - this is not good incentive to drive safely.
Anyway, my friendly neighborhood ACURA dealer (aka "The Devil People") quoted me almost $3000 just for the part! That seems REALLY unreasonable to me, since I have seen them on eBay (and elsewhere online) for cheap. I think the ones on eBay may be universal - is there anything wrong with getting a universal Catalytic Converter, or should I stick with genuine(ly overpriced) ACURA parts?
I just replaced my transmission a couple of months ago, and don't need another bill like this with the car being just a few months out of warranty:
2003 Acrua TL Type-S A-Spec
125 000 km's
I really love the car when it is working well, but it sure has a LOT of issues, and every issue costs a fortune to fix.
i replaced my cat with the one in the auction it was for a 96 accord 2.2 and it works good, passed visual and tailpipe emission tests(after failing 3 times with old cat/exhaust)
good direct fit, bolted right in, no welding. it was also reasonably price compared to new dealer cats and did the same job.
97 Acura CL black F20B DOHC VTEC with F22a automatic transmisson, boomslang converted obd-1, RC 370's, spoon chipped p13, p15 tcm, stage 2 torque converter, DC header, 55shot zex kit, D/S rotors, KYB GR-2, eibach pro kit, ingalls camber kit, 6000k H.I.D.s, optima battery, 2 eclipse aluminum 12's, 2 D.E.I 1100D's, MA audio 10 farat capcitor, phase 7" LCD in dash, 03 ep3 seats, 01 type s steeing wheel
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