Mtstratt

Car stalled twice while driving shifted into neutral and restarted no issues, shortly after I began to lose power pulled over and car stalled out, would not restart. After having the car towed home it started and ran with an extremely rough/loud idle for about ten seconds then stalled out. Removed the fuel relay and saw that it did have a bad solder connection replaced it with one from AutoZone still rough idle with a stall shortly after. Replaced the fuel pump and no change. Battery tests good gonna remove the alternator next and have it tested, at a loss as to what it could be after that. No codes currently showing.

Thefireball

Yikes, that's not sounding good. My first assumption is the head gasket is blown. Try a compression test ASAP.

Mtstratt

Could be the head gasket, I'll do a compression test later this week. I did drain the oil and there was no coolant mixed in and the car wasn't overheating at all, but you never know

Mtstratt

Car ran great before this although I've only owned it a month there's been zero issues or indications.

Thefireball

That's a good sign at least. Are you able to see any smoke coming out the exhaust? Coolant will smell slightly sweet, oil should cause a bit of a blue tint in the smoke if I remember correctly. It might not be mixing with the oil, but could be getting into the cylinders.
Any misfires? Have you tried checking for codes? CEL light could have a bad bulb. That compression check will at least let you know your motor is A-Okay.
I don't want to immediately jump to saying it's a bad head gasket. There's no real answer as to what it could be. ​​​​​​Could just be bad spark plugs for all we know.

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Mtstratt

Honestly it doesn't run long enough to really check exhaust. No codes or pending codes coming up at all. The way it does run for a short period of time sounds almost like it could be a rod bearing but there was no indications in the oil and I unplugged all coils and cranked it without any unusual noises. If it is bad spark plugs I'll be really happy lol but surprised that enough went out at the same time to cause this.

Thefireball

Is this an auto or a 6 speed? You said you "put it into neutral", so I imagine it's a manual.
What happens if you step on the gas pedal a little bit? Does it stay on, or does it still stall? If it were a rod bearing, you'd have heard it by now.

I've gone through 2 motors, so I know what that's like. First one just happened while doing the speed limit; constant knocking noise. Got it start eventually, but had the hold the throttle open. Ended up putting a hole through piston because of that. Second time, I just rebuilt the motor, and didn't break it in properly, nor did I change the oil enough. Instant rod knock after a week. Happened when I was getting on the interstate and some one was riding my ass, so I gave it some gas. Got me enough to drive home, but would die when stopped. The sound a knocking coming from the motor is forever engrained in my mind. But everytime it's happened, I immediately got a flashing CEL and lost power.

Mtstratt

If I give it gas it runs a little longer then stalls. Haven't experienced a blown rod bearing before so don't know exactly what it sounds like been watching a few you tube videos to try and compare, car sounds really bad but not like what I've seen in the videos. Do you know if I would still get the noise with the coils unplugged it it were a rod bearing?

Mtstratt

It's an auto sorry

Thefireball

If it's a rod bearing, you'll know it. It's not quiet, very distinct sounding, and it'll follow the RPMs. You won't get a knocking sound from an unplugged coil pack.

​​​​​​​ If the engine stays on when pressing the gas, then I'd suggest checking your entire intake. Has the EGR ever been cleaned out? Throttle body gummed up? Intake runners clogged up? It might be worth running some seafoam through the motor. Could also be a bad IACV.

Mtstratt

Update all spark plugs are completely black, compression test was 175 psi on each cylinder

Thefireball

Aren't every cylinder supposed to be around 200PSI? I guess 175psi is normal for a motor of this age. At least they're all similar results and not all over the place.

Check your IACV. I'd say my method of testing it, but it's unsafe and I don't want to be the cause of some one getting harmed.

Mtstratt

Yeah I'm not sure how accurate my gauge is but they were all the same so I'm satisfied with that, took off the throttle body and it does have some carbon buildup so I'm guessing the iacv does as well. One of the Phillips on it is stripped out though so I'll have to cut a slot in it. Have you cleaned one out before or is it just easier to replace? Egr Ports had some carbon but not bad

Mtstratt

Intake runners were clean as well, this definitely has me a little stumped. I'll find out more tomorrow when I get into the iacv valve but it seems to me that if it was pretty bad it'd be throwing a code, you never know though

Thefireball

IACV is a pain in the ass. Stripped Phillips bolt heads is common, and it's in such an awkward spot that you have to remove the throttle body if you want it off. It's common for them to go bad. I have cleaned it out before, but sometimes that doesn't fix it and just requires a replacement. Just do what I do, and when you're at the junkyard, just take a hand full of them lol. Cargo shorts with big pockets = free.
I don't think the IACV throws a code, but I might be wrong. Idling seems to be a common problem with these cars. Mine has an issue ever since I did the J35 swap, where when I first first start it, it idles really low to the point of wanting to stall out, but it never does. It's fine when it warms up though. Got me worried that the valves might not be seating very well until they get warmed up, but hey, it still hits 120mph like nothing. Other issue is that when I stop the car and put it in park, the RPMs will jump up and down. I have to restart the car to fix that, but I'm parked anyways and getting out. I've already tried replacing the IACV for a used one, so not sure if it's also bad or something else is bad. Ah well, I'll keep driving it until I kill this motor.

I can send you a PM on how to test it when you have it off if you'd like.

Mtstratt

Yeah this is a mix of bad idle and misfiring so bad the engine is shaking so I'm not convinced it's the iacv but can't hurt to check and I'm running out of options haha. Yes please send me the info it'll definitely be helpful hopefully this will be the end of the troubleshooting for now.

Thefireball

I wasn't aware you had a misfire. Trying unplugging the coil packs with the motor running (if you even can) one by one to see if there is any change. If there isn't that's bad coil pack. Also check the connectors to see if they're even plugged. The clips are broken on like 2 of mine, and cylinder #1 had the plug completely off when I was driving.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

P0505 - Acura Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Definition, Causes and Diagnosis (dtcdecode.com)

My automatic car did the same & it drove me crazy.
Looked over everything real close and found that #31 was disconnected from #12. Zip tied both #31 & #32 to that mofo to make sure it
never happened again. Maybe start there?

Thefireball

I know both hoses are connected to #12, because I already removed them and put them back on. I'll follow them and see where they go. I have a feeling I know what it is though.

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Mtstratt

Cleaned out the throttle body, checked and cleaned out the iacv, redid a ground that didn't look too great, now it cranks but doesn't want to turn over. Gonna let the battery tender sit on it for a while then try again. Maybe take the alternator off and get it checked although haven't had any issues with the battery at all. Kind of at a loss as to what to do next might be time to drop it off somewhere

Thefireball

Any confirmation as to whether or not your getting fuel into the motor?

Mtstratt

No I don't have an adapter to tie my gauge into the fuel line, the only point I see is behind the engine towards the driver side. I guess I could always just take the line off and see if I'm getting a good spray

Thefireball

There's a large piece that screws onto #14 sandwiching the #8 piece. This is how I release the pressure from the fuel lines when I have to remove injectors. This'll tell you if you're getting any pressure. Be forewarned; it's messy and will spray fuel everywhere. Should be fine to release and screw back down quickly. You'll probably need to use vice grips, unless you have a big enough wrench.

whitetiger5

Fuel, Air and Spark; with the appropriate timing.

Have you inspected the timing belt? everything good there?

I think I've seen other on the 2G TL side have problems after replacing the fuel pump relay with a non-oem part...

I don't know any air related problems to do anything other than make the car idle higher, idle erratically or create a loud whistling sound. the IACV is not going to "smooth" an erratic idle out; it will simple raise/lower the steady state when no input is received at the throttle or load (air conditioning on/off) changes.

Mtstratt

Took the top cover off the timing belt everything looked correct. Removed the fuel fitting from the back of engine plenty of fuel came out when I turned the key, definitely at a loss as to what to check next. Does anyone have a wire diagram with all the grounds for these cars definitely grasping at straws here.

whitetiger5

What test were you performing when you took the fuel fitting off and observed fuel coming out when you turned the ignition on?

Thefireball

Gotta love car problems that love to hide themselves. I'm at a loss as to what it is as well. Could be anything at this point. If the car stays on when pushing the pedal, I'd have to say it's something to do with air intake.

It's a wild goose chase.

Mtstratt

No specific test just seeing if I had fuel pressure, and yeah it was staying running with pedal now it doesn't want to turn over at all. Definitely scratching my head on this one.

Mtstratt

Starting to seem like a timing issue just not sure how it would've skipped timing

Thefireball

When you took off the timing cover, what exactly did you look at? Did you just inspect the belt, or did you line everything up? Timing could have slipped due to a bad tensioner. But even I had my original J32 skip two teeth on the rear cam gear, and the tensioner was still holding plenty of pressure. The car still drove perfectly fine, but it sounded like a Harley motorcycle. There was no damage to the motor or valves.
Unfortunate how it died, but the J35 was definitely worth the time & money, and I learned a lot from it.

Mtstratt

I just took a quick look, saw the belt was there and moved onto other possible causes. I'll have to open it back up and check the alignment out to be sure, I don't think it happens often but you never know. My old man had a mouse get into his on his tundra when he started it up the mouse went through and caused the timing to skip haha and this is starting to seem like it could be something just as odd.

Thefireball

Definitely check if everything is lined. No real point in just looking at the belt unless it's really old. Even if it were out of time, the motor should still be able to run. If it were bad, I'd imagine the engine would shake badly, or you'd hear the pistons hitting the valves when cranking it. Plus, your compression came out alright, but it's not perfect. I'd imagine your compression would be way worse if it were out of time. Maybe that's why it was so low though?

Tosh

Sorry if I missed it, but you should just replace all six ignition coils and go from there. You have a good PGM-FI aka fuel pump relay, right?
Why is it not showing codes??

Mtstratt

Sorry got knocked down with COVID for a bit, both camshaft timing marks lined up perfect, can try the ignition coils but how would all six go out at the same time? Worth a shot I guess because I have no idea what to look at from here

Mtstratt

Yes relay is good and getting fuel at the rail, no clue on the no codes I wish it had one to give me a little direction

Mtstratt

Anyone know how to check the computers on these?

Tosh

What codes, pending codes, or messages do you get when you plug in an OBD2 reader?