Smoke and burning smell
#1
Smoke and burning smell
This issue just was noticed for the first time a few days ago:
Only when everything has been running for a little while (a short 7 mile trip to work), I am noticing a strong burning smell from my car. You can smell it from inside the cabin, but more so when opening the hood and going in between the rear of the engine and firewall.
After a longer drive it is noticed that there is small amount of white smoke coming from that exact area. It's really hard to see where it's coming from, but it can only really be seen in that area.
The car has almost 160k miles on it. It smells a little like burnt rubber, so I'm thinking a hose might be cracking and needs to be replaced. I guess that would also explain the signs of smoke. Possibly vapor from something burning off?
I'm posting some photos to give a better idea of that area if someone can give me any first guesses as to what to look for that would be awesome.
Only when everything has been running for a little while (a short 7 mile trip to work), I am noticing a strong burning smell from my car. You can smell it from inside the cabin, but more so when opening the hood and going in between the rear of the engine and firewall.
After a longer drive it is noticed that there is small amount of white smoke coming from that exact area. It's really hard to see where it's coming from, but it can only really be seen in that area.
The car has almost 160k miles on it. It smells a little like burnt rubber, so I'm thinking a hose might be cracking and needs to be replaced. I guess that would also explain the signs of smoke. Possibly vapor from something burning off?
I'm posting some photos to give a better idea of that area if someone can give me any first guesses as to what to look for that would be awesome.
#2
Does it smell sweet like coolant .....or more pungent like oil ?
~ Do ya have any oil leaking down from the motor's rear ? If so, could be a gasket or seal.
~ Check all the coolant/heater hoses and connections for possible pinhole leaks.
~ Do ya have any oil leaking down from the motor's rear ? If so, could be a gasket or seal.
~ Check all the coolant/heater hoses and connections for possible pinhole leaks.
#3
Mr.Helpful Diagram
Might have caught a plastic bag or something is touching the exhaust piping, Inspect the undercarriage. Also check what 3.2TLc mentioned
#4
I did just check underneath my car in my garage after heating it up from a drive and there was some fresh oil splatter on the floor
Do you think rear seal or something? What do you think the next steps should be? Maybe an additive in the oil to help reseal that?
#5
Some more images now that I lifted the car up and I can squeeze underneath.
There is not much oil around the oil pan (and quick release valve). There is a lot of oil which seems to be dripping on the exhaust (source of smoke?) and other areas. I still have the car lifted in the garage if you think I should take a picture of something else.
Or maybe wipe everything down and wait to see where it drips from.
There is not much oil around the oil pan (and quick release valve). There is a lot of oil which seems to be dripping on the exhaust (source of smoke?) and other areas. I still have the car lifted in the garage if you think I should take a picture of something else.
Or maybe wipe everything down and wait to see where it drips from.
#6
Yeah, definitely looks like an oil leak. Your best bet would be to try to degrease or clean everything up on the backside and bottom of the motor. That way you can better track down the leak's main source of origin. Make sure that the rear valve cover isn't seeping.
Replace the PCV valve and grommet with an OEM part. Once everything is not so grungy, a fresh oil leak will be easier to see. After running the car, shut it off, safely support it and use a bright light to inspect the rear side of the motor for fresh oil anywhere that it could be coming from. When parked overnight, lay a piece of cardboard underneath the motor to help narrow the point of the leak's direction downward.
Replace the PCV valve and grommet with an OEM part. Once everything is not so grungy, a fresh oil leak will be easier to see. After running the car, shut it off, safely support it and use a bright light to inspect the rear side of the motor for fresh oil anywhere that it could be coming from. When parked overnight, lay a piece of cardboard underneath the motor to help narrow the point of the leak's direction downward.
Last edited by 3.2TLc; 04-07-2014 at 02:40 PM.
#7
Yeah, definitely looks like an oil leak. Your best bet would be to try to degrease or clean everything up on the backside and bottom of the motor. That way you can better track down the leak's main source of origin. Make sure that the rear valve cover isn't seeping.
Replace the PCV valve and grommet with an OEM part. Once everything is not so grungy, a fresh oil leak will be easier to see. After running the car, shut it off, safely support it and use a bright light to inspect the rear side of the motor for fresh oil anywhere that it could be coming from. When parked overnight, lay a piece of cardboard underneath the motor to help narrow the point of the leak's direction downward.
Replace the PCV valve and grommet with an OEM part. Once everything is not so grungy, a fresh oil leak will be easier to see. After running the car, shut it off, safely support it and use a bright light to inspect the rear side of the motor for fresh oil anywhere that it could be coming from. When parked overnight, lay a piece of cardboard underneath the motor to help narrow the point of the leak's direction downward.
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#9
For the PCV, check an online Acura partstore or go to your local dealer.
It may cost a bit more, but the valve will perform and fit much better than some of the generic aftermarket parts. The valve should rattle inside if ya shake it. If gunked up, a clogged PCV can contribute to higher internal pressure which could lead to the rear main seal leaking.
It may cost a bit more, but the valve will perform and fit much better than some of the generic aftermarket parts. The valve should rattle inside if ya shake it. If gunked up, a clogged PCV can contribute to higher internal pressure which could lead to the rear main seal leaking.
#10
For the PCV, check an online Acura partstore or go to your local dealer.
It may cost a bit more, but the valve will perform and fit much better than some of the generic aftermarket parts. The valve should rattle inside if ya shake it. If gunked up, a clogged PCV can contribute to higher internal pressure which could lead to the rear main seal leaking.
It may cost a bit more, but the valve will perform and fit much better than some of the generic aftermarket parts. The valve should rattle inside if ya shake it. If gunked up, a clogged PCV can contribute to higher internal pressure which could lead to the rear main seal leaking.
#11
Yeah, for less than $15......it's well worth replacing the valve with a new one while you're at it.
#13
Moderator
Some more images now that I lifted the car up and I can squeeze underneath.
There is not much oil around the oil pan (and quick release valve). There is a lot of oil which seems to be dripping on the exhaust (source of smoke?) and other areas. I still have the car lifted in the garage if you think I should take a picture of something else.
Or maybe wipe everything down and wait to see where it drips from.
There is not much oil around the oil pan (and quick release valve). There is a lot of oil which seems to be dripping on the exhaust (source of smoke?) and other areas. I still have the car lifted in the garage if you think I should take a picture of something else.
Or maybe wipe everything down and wait to see where it drips from.
Cant see those ^^ pics
#16
Moderator
Yah looks like rear main seal to me... Though the PCV should not put a strain to it if its leaking its on its way out anyway, PCV or not it will still leak after you replace the PCV..
#17
If it is the main seal...where would I see the oil coming from? The main seal is on the right side of the motor when standing in front of the car, correct?
Also, if it is the main seal...should I look into using a main seal treatment to try and resolve it or should I already be looking into replacing it?
#18
I just cleaned everything underneath my car that had gunk/oil on it. It's pretty clean now, so it should be apparent when I check sometime tomorrow or this week where it's coming from.
If it is the main seal...where would I see the oil coming from? The main seal is on the right side of the motor when standing in front of the car, correct?
Also, if it is the main seal...should I look into using a main seal treatment to try and resolve it or should I already be looking into replacing it?
If it is the main seal...where would I see the oil coming from? The main seal is on the right side of the motor when standing in front of the car, correct?
Also, if it is the main seal...should I look into using a main seal treatment to try and resolve it or should I already be looking into replacing it?
Edit: Looks like you swapped the transmission at 100K most recommend doing it then.
#20
Would've been a simple repair at the time of replacing the tranny, but not so easy to do now.
#22
Latest update:
Seems like oil is dripping from the area where the motor and transmission meet (someone correct me if I'm wrong).
In the third image here, I've added some red arrows. There is a pretty substantial gap here. Is that normal?
With these pictures of the leak on a clean surface, can we say it's most likely the rear seal. Or is there still a chance it is something else?
Seems like oil is dripping from the area where the motor and transmission meet (someone correct me if I'm wrong).
In the third image here, I've added some red arrows. There is a pretty substantial gap here. Is that normal?
With these pictures of the leak on a clean surface, can we say it's most likely the rear seal. Or is there still a chance it is something else?
#23
Mr.Helpful Diagram
Ive been using Atp-205 from amazon or ebay for about $15 and it really helped with the leak, Ill change it out when the tranny gives up and the Av6 goes in.
Reason I used it, When I replaced the engine I didn't take the chance. (rookie mistake)
Reason I used it, When I replaced the engine I didn't take the chance. (rookie mistake)
#24
http://store.gobluedevil.com/rear-main-sealer-00234/
#25
One day after putting in Blue Devil...
No immediate signs of leakage from the first posted photos, but still some oil in this area. Should I still be concerned with the main seal or something else?
Also...is there a diagram view of my motor and transmission assembly somewhere so I can easily identify where it may be coming from?
No immediate signs of leakage from the first posted photos, but still some oil in this area. Should I still be concerned with the main seal or something else?
Also...is there a diagram view of my motor and transmission assembly somewhere so I can easily identify where it may be coming from?
#27
I think a lot of people are confusing Blue Devils stuff with something like this....
Which I have seen this "sludge" poured into cars before and that's exactly what it looks like.....sludge. The blue devil stuff looks like water. Extremely viscous (about 5w-20) and clear.
I guess it comes down to this...
1) Replace the rear main seal
2) Try this stuff...and then replace the main seal anyway.
#28
Mr.Helpful Diagram
I have no experience with Blue Devil, if its not an oil thickener IMO its ok.
Its worst for the oil to leak out and run dry
Its worst for the oil to leak out and run dry
#29
Moderator
Yeah its the rear main seal guaranteed.. You can check it by removing the TQ Cover Plate that its held by the single 10mm bolt.. If you remove it and follow the drip behind the Flexplate then you know the obvious..
I would not recommend on using Oil Leak repairs as most just thicken the OIL or do funny things to bearings.. I know replace the Seal sounds like a hassle and I wont lie to you it is... But once you get it fix you will forget about it for a long looonggg time..
I would not recommend on using Oil Leak repairs as most just thicken the OIL or do funny things to bearings.. I know replace the Seal sounds like a hassle and I wont lie to you it is... But once you get it fix you will forget about it for a long looonggg time..
The following users liked this post:
JRhodes88 (04-14-2014)
#30
Yeah its the rear main seal guaranteed.. You can check it by removing the TQ Cover Plate that its held by the single 10mm bolt.. If you remove it and follow the drip behind the Flexplate then you know the obvious..
I would not recommend on using Oil Leak repairs as most just thicken the OIL or do funny things to bearings.. I know replace the Seal sounds like a hassle and I wont lie to you it is... But once you get it fix you will forget about it for a long looonggg time..
I would not recommend on using Oil Leak repairs as most just thicken the OIL or do funny things to bearings.. I know replace the Seal sounds like a hassle and I wont lie to you it is... But once you get it fix you will forget about it for a long looonggg time..
Can you be a little more specific about where the TQ cover plate and flex plate is?
#31
Moderator
#32
The drip of the oil seems to have subsided after using the Blue Devil. But there still seems to be some residual oil underneath that is coming from the area attached. Around those bolts is where most of it is coming from. Is that the oil pump?
When I got home from work today I put a clean piece of cardboard under my car immediately and waited about 2 hours. When I checked it was spotless.
When I got home from work today I put a clean piece of cardboard under my car immediately and waited about 2 hours. When I checked it was spotless.
#33
some years the inspection plate under the trans to engine connection is held on by 4 small bolts--its located where the trans and engine meet!
with either plate- if there is engine oil in there its leaking from rear main seal
IF this trans job had been done very recently,,I would speak with the service MANAGER about splitting the labor to replace- about 400$ total- a good tech and writer SHOULD have suggested the seal at 10 dollars while the trans was already removed
based on total miles it was overdue
they should be good about it and split the repair,,not at retail labor but at shop internal cost
BUT
didn't you say 160 on it now?
in that case- a trans shop will be cheaper to remove trans- replace seal and install trans
make sure it gets the new style fluid
with either plate- if there is engine oil in there its leaking from rear main seal
IF this trans job had been done very recently,,I would speak with the service MANAGER about splitting the labor to replace- about 400$ total- a good tech and writer SHOULD have suggested the seal at 10 dollars while the trans was already removed
based on total miles it was overdue
they should be good about it and split the repair,,not at retail labor but at shop internal cost
BUT
didn't you say 160 on it now?
in that case- a trans shop will be cheaper to remove trans- replace seal and install trans
make sure it gets the new style fluid
Last edited by 01tl4tl; 04-29-2014 at 09:37 PM.
#34
if its looking good with additive- remove inspection plate and make sure its all dry
and MONITOR THAT
and MONITOR THAT
#36
Also, note that the oil leak was present under the oil pan, so it could be leaking somewhere else too. I don't know if main seal leak alone would run the leaking oil over to the oil pan. Just a thought.
#38
I'm going to be fixing the rear main seal at the beginning of the year. It's becoming a nuisance to have the oil spots in my garage and driveway.
Questions about replacing the rear main seal:
Just as a reminder, the car has 160k on it. The transmission was replaced/fixed under the warranty at the dealership at 100k.
Questions about replacing the rear main seal:
- What's the "easiest" way to perform this job? Should I look at dropping the transmission?
- Any other seals I should replace while doing this?
- Any other general maintenance?
- Is there a better rear main seal that I should buy or should I just buy from Acura?
Just as a reminder, the car has 160k on it. The transmission was replaced/fixed under the warranty at the dealership at 100k.
#39
Moderator
^
1.- Sadly There is no other way to replace the Rear Seal without dropping the trans.
2.- There aren't any other serviceable seals in that area.
3.- There aren't any specific reasons for a Rear Main seal damage, they just die eventually specially from age.
4.- OEM Should be your only option here for the Rear Seal.
Since the trans will be out you can also replace the Rear Engine Mount on the spot! it will be hassle once everything is plugged in.
1.- Sadly There is no other way to replace the Rear Seal without dropping the trans.
2.- There aren't any other serviceable seals in that area.
3.- There aren't any specific reasons for a Rear Main seal damage, they just die eventually specially from age.
4.- OEM Should be your only option here for the Rear Seal.
Since the trans will be out you can also replace the Rear Engine Mount on the spot! it will be hassle once everything is plugged in.
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justnspace (12-04-2014)