Replacing drivers side actuator for broken power door lock
#1
Replacing drivers side actuator for broken power door lock
I decided to change my actuator on the driver’s side because my door lock was not working with the Key Fob or the lock switch inside the car. You will need to purchase PN 72155-S84-A11. About $35 to $49 from a Honda/Acura dealership. The actuator breaking is a common problem with Honda’s and Acura’s. This is any easy and simple way to fix it and should not take more than 2 hours if you are handy.
- Pull fuse 11 out so that the interior lights are off and the battery does not get drained while you work
- Take off the door panel. Great directions by TL Daddy at: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=174631
- Peel off white weather film partially until you can see the inside of the door opening (1/4 of the door is sufficient for working area)
- When you look inside the door you will see that the window guide is blocking actuator so this has to be removed by unscrewing the 10 mm bolt. Once the bolt is off, you will have to pull out the black rubber and the window guide down and out.
- Once the window guide is removed you will see the actuator with 2 plugs and a white plastic protective cover. Remove the 2 plugs on the actuator and remove one small screw that holds the white plastic cover. Tip: it is easier to remove the plugs if you remove the tab on the door that holds the cable housing, you will have more room to pull and store the cable in your work area.
- The actuator is held on with 2 small screws (one on the top and one on the left) take those out. Once the screws are out the actuator can be taken out by pulling it forward and down.
- If you look at the old actuator you will notice that there is a metal plate behind it. Remove the 2 screws that hold the plate to the actuator (Big screws on the left hand side the bottom) and put it on your new actuator. My old actuator also had 2 white plastic housings and 2 black rubber gaskets for the plugs so that has to also be removed and placed on the new actuator ( use needle nose pliers)
- To install actuator, place the white moving arm of the actuator on the notch of the lock mechanism and then install the 2 screws with a dab of locktite.
- Next install white plastics protective cover with 1 small screw. (you will need a small mirror for this and you can start the screw by inserting into the plastic so that is does not drop in the door.
- Install the 2 plugs to the actuator
- Install the window guide and the black rubber and tighten the 10 mm bolt
- Seal white protective covering
- Before installing the door panel back in place, re-install all plugs and put back fuse 11 and test all the windows, mirrors and your key FOB. If everything is OK, push door panel back into place and you’re done.
The following 2 users liked this post by 4stl:
abcman (01-14-2015)
The following 2 users liked this post by 4stl:
abcman (01-14-2015)
#5
awesome DIY--thanks for contributing this fix
Mods: can we sticky this to DIY section?
welcome to a very productive new ziner!!!
Mods: can we sticky this to DIY section?
welcome to a very productive new ziner!!!
#7
"When you look inside the door you will see that the window guide is blocking actuator so this has to be removed by unscrewing the 10 mm bolt. Once the bolt is off, you will have to pull out the black rubber and the window guide down and out."
Can you expand on this point ? I got it all apart and could not find a way to get the window guide out, even with the bottom screw removed, it would not budge.
Great DIY BTW.....thank you for the putting this together.
smarty.
Can you expand on this point ? I got it all apart and could not find a way to get the window guide out, even with the bottom screw removed, it would not budge.
Great DIY BTW.....thank you for the putting this together.
smarty.
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#8
Pull the black rubber piece foward and then grab the metal window rail and wiggle it back and forth while pulling downwards. Taking out the window rail and reinstalling it was the hardest part of the procedure.
#9
Smarty,
the window guide connects to this point and you can just wiggle the metal guide until it is free. Wiggle back and forth and pull unitl it is off but do not bend the metal rail. Good luck!
the window guide connects to this point and you can just wiggle the metal guide until it is free. Wiggle back and forth and pull unitl it is off but do not bend the metal rail. Good luck!
"When you look inside the door you will see that the window guide is blocking actuator so this has to be removed by unscrewing the 10 mm bolt. Once the bolt is off, you will have to pull out the black rubber and the window guide down and out."
Can you expand on this point ? I got it all apart and could not find a way to get the window guide out, even with the bottom screw removed, it would not budge.
Great DIY BTW.....thank you for the putting this together.
smarty.
Can you expand on this point ? I got it all apart and could not find a way to get the window guide out, even with the bottom screw removed, it would not budge.
Great DIY BTW.....thank you for the putting this together.
smarty.
#10
OK....that's not what stopped me. I was able to get all the way to the door actuator being loose from the door frame, but I could not negotiate it around the window track.
Do you split the actuator and the lock so it makes it comes out in two smaller pieces ? I had the mechanical lock and the actuator together and it never occurred to me to look for a way to split them until a few days later.
Is this the secret ?
smarty.
Do you split the actuator and the lock so it makes it comes out in two smaller pieces ? I had the mechanical lock and the actuator together and it never occurred to me to look for a way to split them until a few days later.
Is this the secret ?
smarty.
#11
OK....that's not what stopped me. I was able to get all the way to the door actuator being loose from the door frame, but I could not negotiate it around the window track.
Do you split the actuator and the lock so it makes it comes out in two smaller pieces ? I had the mechanical lock and the actuator together and it never occurred to me to look for a way to split them until a few days later.
Is this the secret ?
smarty.
Do you split the actuator and the lock so it makes it comes out in two smaller pieces ? I had the mechanical lock and the actuator together and it never occurred to me to look for a way to split them until a few days later.
Is this the secret ?
smarty.
#13
#14
Wow.....I would have never guessed that one ! So it's just jammed in there with the screw at the bottom holding it in place.
Thanks! I would have been totally mystified without your help.
Thanks! I would have been totally mystified without your help.
#15
10th Gear
I just got my 99 TL and I am having this same problem with the driver side door. I was not sure if I had to reprogram my remote, but it makes perfect sense that I need to replace the actuator. Great write up - I hope to get this done over the weekend. Wish me luck!
#19
I have a 2005 acura RL and the dealer quoted me $550 for parts and labor. Part alone was $254. Its crazy? is it easy for DYI? Do they have after market for these? If so, where can I buy them?
#20
Drifting
^ 05 RL
The part is $165 from az vendor.
Yours will be different than the tl. The higher end cars seems to be harder due to more fasteners and/or hidden fasteners. More labor intensive.
However, nothing a good service manual won't fix.
BTW you're in the wrong section.
The part is $165 from az vendor.
Yours will be different than the tl. The higher end cars seems to be harder due to more fasteners and/or hidden fasteners. More labor intensive.
However, nothing a good service manual won't fix.
BTW you're in the wrong section.
#21
Can't get the movable arm to set on the nipple of the lock mechanism. My 2001 cl is a little different. No metal plate behind the actuator. Also took out the 3 screws holding the lock mechanism to door jamb so I could get it to swing up a little. It's still connected to the rods so I cant take the assembly all the way out. Very frustrating.
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