Persistent SRS light after fixes
#1
Three Wheelin'
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Persistent SRS light after fixes
Hey guys
My 2002 TL, the SRS light keeps coming on. I reset it with a paper clip etc but it comes back after a day or so. I even swapped out the OPDS sensor on the passenger side and still comes back. What now?
Car is wayyy out of warranty (passed the 150k/10 years SRS warranty extension. )
My 2002 TL, the SRS light keeps coming on. I reset it with a paper clip etc but it comes back after a day or so. I even swapped out the OPDS sensor on the passenger side and still comes back. What now?
Car is wayyy out of warranty (passed the 150k/10 years SRS warranty extension. )
#2
Senior Moderator
There are other things other than the OPDS that can trigger it. Only way to know what is causing it is to get the code.
#4
HahahhahHHAHAAAhahaaa uhh NOPE
that's a body shop (maybe) or the dreaded DEALER visit for SRS code diagnosis
maybe technology has caught up with portable scanners or apps,,
Someone know another way? I've been wrong twice tonight!!
are you resetting the ECU via clock fuse removal method = after the srs reset?
Its on the passenger end of dash- 7.5 amp, Remove for 1 minute and reinsert fully
That's the secret backup power to the ECU and clears all codes, resets system and runs self test on everything
that's a body shop (maybe) or the dreaded DEALER visit for SRS code diagnosis
maybe technology has caught up with portable scanners or apps,,
Someone know another way? I've been wrong twice tonight!!
are you resetting the ECU via clock fuse removal method = after the srs reset?
Its on the passenger end of dash- 7.5 amp, Remove for 1 minute and reinsert fully
That's the secret backup power to the ECU and clears all codes, resets system and runs self test on everything
#5
some back-story on the problems origin, and your efforts to date- may be faster and certainly cheaper than the dealer
Do the seat belts work and retract properly?
car been in an accident? totaled? airbag deployment?
Do the seat belts work and retract properly?
car been in an accident? totaled? airbag deployment?
#6
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No accidence, no airbag deployment, etc. driver seat belt is weak on retracting though.
Anyways, I reset & unhooked the battery. That's not enough?
Anyways, I reset & unhooked the battery. That's not enough?
#7
yes battery neg disconnect will do a ecu reset BUT forces you to input the radio security code,
not everyone knows their code, so the clock fuse method is way faster and does not requires any security resets
weak seat belt retraction is covered in our DIY section and will mess with srs if the belt is not tight against you when in use
not everyone knows their code, so the clock fuse method is way faster and does not requires any security resets
weak seat belt retraction is covered in our DIY section and will mess with srs if the belt is not tight against you when in use
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#10
No idea on seatbelt warranty, its in the retractor mechanism iirc, and in our DIY
Sometimes its crud fell in there, other times the belt has gotten twisted and the 3rd kind is equipment failure..been years since I read about this subject
try the service MANAGER at acura, the older guy who has been around a long time!
not the kid who is trained that anything that old has no warranty
OR call 1 800 382 2238 x5 Acura Care (who sends out recall notices) ask them to look in the old SRS extended warranty books on seatbelt, and ck your VIN for any current OPEN recalls like the airbag problems
Sometimes its crud fell in there, other times the belt has gotten twisted and the 3rd kind is equipment failure..been years since I read about this subject
try the service MANAGER at acura, the older guy who has been around a long time!
not the kid who is trained that anything that old has no warranty
OR call 1 800 382 2238 x5 Acura Care (who sends out recall notices) ask them to look in the old SRS extended warranty books on seatbelt, and ck your VIN for any current OPEN recalls like the airbag problems
#11
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I followed this link
to pull the SRS code. The code it gave on my car isn't like the video. There's a bust of flashes (really really quick), then 5 slow flashes and 3 short flashes.
and it doesn't repeat like the video. After the flashes, it gave a solid SRS light.
anyways, I take it as code "53" which doesn't exist.. any idea?...
to pull the SRS code. The code it gave on my car isn't like the video. There's a bust of flashes (really really quick), then 5 slow flashes and 3 short flashes.
and it doesn't repeat like the video. After the flashes, it gave a solid SRS light.
anyways, I take it as code "53" which doesn't exist.. any idea?...
#13
Randomwalk101.....I believe what you're describing is a 15-3....the 4 really really quick blinks represent the number 10....the 5 slow flashes represent 5...and the 3 short flashes represent 3....15-3
https://sites.google.com/site/hondalioness/srs
...also in my town the O'reilly Auto Parts has an OMB scanner that will pull SRS codes (Autozone doesn't, at least in my town)
https://sites.google.com/site/hondalioness/srs
...also in my town the O'reilly Auto Parts has an OMB scanner that will pull SRS codes (Autozone doesn't, at least in my town)
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#14
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15-3 is a bad OPDS sensor. Damn I just bought a replacement off eBay and it's bad too? Crazy. Thanks for the tip. I'll go to oreilly to see if they can read the codes to be sure.
#15
randomwalk.....hold the phone and read this:
SRS Light Out After 4 Years of "Internal Fault in SRS Module"
Read the 7th, 8th and 9th paragraphs....it appears your problem may be an old code that is still stored as opposed to an on-going problem....because in your video your 15-3 only flashes one time...it doesn't repeat in an endless loop
SRS Light Out After 4 Years of "Internal Fault in SRS Module"
Read the 7th, 8th and 9th paragraphs....it appears your problem may be an old code that is still stored as opposed to an on-going problem....because in your video your 15-3 only flashes one time...it doesn't repeat in an endless loop
#16
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Thanks. So it may not be the OPDS sensor?? I had the dealer fix the airbag (recall) last Saturday and they did said I have a bad battery. I recharged the battery and no light. After a couple days the SRS light came back. I'll try to swap the battery out first.
#18
so wait a minute- all this time you had a bad battery, which will cause false codes,,,and NOW you get around to mentioning it??? - after dealer confirms its bad, and you continue to screw with the light?
the ecu will reset when you disconnect battery for replacement
Then you need to drive 30 minutes to fully charge the new battery that has been sitting on a shelf for several months!
After that- reset ecu again and watch for codes
Used ebay TL electrical parts no good? try buying a used ballast! about as worthless~
the ecu will reset when you disconnect battery for replacement
Then you need to drive 30 minutes to fully charge the new battery that has been sitting on a shelf for several months!
After that- reset ecu again and watch for codes
Used ebay TL electrical parts no good? try buying a used ballast! about as worthless~
#19
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I'm poor that's why I was buying used eBay parts. Give me a break guys.
I put the battery on a charger until it was fully charged again. Not sure why the dealer said it was bad battery. The car started fine. Anyways will replace the battery anyways. I never thought weak battery cause false codes. Thanks.
I put the battery on a charger until it was fully charged again. Not sure why the dealer said it was bad battery. The car started fine. Anyways will replace the battery anyways. I never thought weak battery cause false codes. Thanks.
Last edited by randomwalk101; 05-27-2015 at 07:08 AM.
#20
weak battery #1 reason for false codes! Sensors need exact votage to work correctly
weak ground wires #2 reason
A bad cell will allow the batt to accept batt slow charger to about 12 volts, enough to test the battery
but it wont hold up under cranking load test
Any parts store can do the full system test for free
ebay = bad place to look for help- acurazine = excellent place!
weak ground wires #2 reason
A bad cell will allow the batt to accept batt slow charger to about 12 volts, enough to test the battery
but it wont hold up under cranking load test
Any parts store can do the full system test for free
ebay = bad place to look for help- acurazine = excellent place!
#21
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Randomwalk101.....I believe what you're describing is a 15-3....the 4 really really quick blinks represent the number 10....the 5 slow flashes represent 5...and the 3 short flashes represent 3....15-3
https://sites.google.com/site/hondalioness/srs
...also in my town the O'reilly Auto Parts has an OMB scanner that will pull SRS codes (Autozone doesn't, at least in my town)
https://sites.google.com/site/hondalioness/srs
...also in my town the O'reilly Auto Parts has an OMB scanner that will pull SRS codes (Autozone doesn't, at least in my town)
#22
call some more oreillys? ask the store manager which other store has the scanner?
just because a battery will allegedly take a charge, doesn't mean its holding the amps needed to run the vehicle- there is a lot of juice required to run the TL
After charging, then you test battery at parts store for ability to recover from `load test` and total volts
If your battery is more than 3 to 4 years old there is a good chance its headed for the scrap pile!
just because a battery will allegedly take a charge, doesn't mean its holding the amps needed to run the vehicle- there is a lot of juice required to run the TL
After charging, then you test battery at parts store for ability to recover from `load test` and total volts
If your battery is more than 3 to 4 years old there is a good chance its headed for the scrap pile!
#24
do the clock fuse removal method of ECU reset to clear all the old stored codes- then know for sure its ok now
After a drive to charge battery to full-full, have the selling store do a full system test (FREE!) so the starter amps draw, alt charging rate and voltage all get measured.
Make sure nothing else is messing with the battery!
clean ALL the ground wire connections to frame!! Main batt neg cable gets loose inside its connector under battery box!!
After a drive to charge battery to full-full, have the selling store do a full system test (FREE!) so the starter amps draw, alt charging rate and voltage all get measured.
Make sure nothing else is messing with the battery!
clean ALL the ground wire connections to frame!! Main batt neg cable gets loose inside its connector under battery box!!
#25
If you are in Houston STAY AWAY FROM WATER!
nothing kills a TL faster than a quick dip thru some knee deep water
nothing kills a TL faster than a quick dip thru some knee deep water
#26
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do the clock fuse removal method of ECU reset to clear all the old stored codes- then know for sure its ok now
After a drive to charge battery to full-full, have the selling store do a full system test (FREE!) so the starter amps draw, alt charging rate and voltage all get measured.
Make sure nothing else is messing with the battery!
clean ALL the ground wire connections to frame!! Main batt neg cable gets loose inside its connector under battery box!!
After a drive to charge battery to full-full, have the selling store do a full system test (FREE!) so the starter amps draw, alt charging rate and voltage all get measured.
Make sure nothing else is messing with the battery!
clean ALL the ground wire connections to frame!! Main batt neg cable gets loose inside its connector under battery box!!
#27
battery charger running 2=6 amps is not the same as the alt and 60 amps for fully charging a new battery,
On the shelf they lose power- just sitting there
Exception to Batterys+Bulbs who use a massive battery tender machine to top-off charge every battery as it comes off the truck,
weekly inventory turnover means fresh full batts !
On the shelf they lose power- just sitting there
Exception to Batterys+Bulbs who use a massive battery tender machine to top-off charge every battery as it comes off the truck,
weekly inventory turnover means fresh full batts !
#28
yes disconnect of battery neg cable does the ecu reset, and requires input of the radio security code
Not everyone has theirs written down so we suggest the clock fuse method- doesn't bother radio and is the secret backup power to the ecu
TO perform: open passenger door and locate fuse panel cover on end of dash (some years on kick panel by feet)
see 7.5 amp fuse marked CLOCK and pull it out
wait 1 minute and reinsert fuse fully
install cover- done!
Not everyone has theirs written down so we suggest the clock fuse method- doesn't bother radio and is the secret backup power to the ecu
TO perform: open passenger door and locate fuse panel cover on end of dash (some years on kick panel by feet)
see 7.5 amp fuse marked CLOCK and pull it out
wait 1 minute and reinsert fuse fully
install cover- done!
#29
#30
I have an 04 3.5 RL and I just recently replaced the OPDS unit myself. Now when I initialize the OPDS the light blinks twice then stays on, which is supposed to indicate that the OPDS is initialized but the DTC (s) need to be cleared. However, the only DTC I'm getting is 15-1, which is supposed to mean either faulty OPDS or OPDS not initialized. It is a recurring 15-1 (repeats the flashing sequence over and over when jumping the OBD), and therefore I can't clear the ECU. Even after disconnecting the battery (pos and neg) for 3 hours the light stayed on upon turning key to II position.
Sooo....how can my OPDS be "faulty" if it is able to be initialized (SRS blinks twice and remains on)......can a faulty OPDS be initialized but then just not work for other reasons?
Are there other causes of a 15-1? Everything I've read, including Service Manual, is only 2 things...faulty unit or unit not initialized.
Also, and sorry for so much rambling, but the OPDS I removed would initialize and the light would stay off for a day or so....then it would come on and I would get a 15-1. So that is why I replaced the OPDS in the first place (thought I ruled out that it wasn't initialized so figured it had to be faulty unit).
Sooo....how can my OPDS be "faulty" if it is able to be initialized (SRS blinks twice and remains on)......can a faulty OPDS be initialized but then just not work for other reasons?
Are there other causes of a 15-1? Everything I've read, including Service Manual, is only 2 things...faulty unit or unit not initialized.
Also, and sorry for so much rambling, but the OPDS I removed would initialize and the light would stay off for a day or so....then it would come on and I would get a 15-1. So that is why I replaced the OPDS in the first place (thought I ruled out that it wasn't initialized so figured it had to be faulty unit).
#31
your prior symptoms will help us,,codes are merely clues= not a diagnosis in themselves
#32
yes disconnect of battery neg cable does the ecu reset, and requires input of the radio security code
Not everyone has theirs written down so we suggest the clock fuse method- doesn't bother radio and is the secret backup power to the ecu
TO perform: open passenger door and locate fuse panel cover on end of dash (some years on kick panel by feet)
see 7.5 amp fuse marked CLOCK and pull it out
wait 1 minute and reinsert fuse fully
install cover- done!
Not everyone has theirs written down so we suggest the clock fuse method- doesn't bother radio and is the secret backup power to the ecu
TO perform: open passenger door and locate fuse panel cover on end of dash (some years on kick panel by feet)
see 7.5 amp fuse marked CLOCK and pull it out
wait 1 minute and reinsert fuse fully
install cover- done!
#34
not to be rude but you are in the wrong gen - our knowledge stops at 03 model TL
Go to gen3 and ask for help- there are many racers and others who have dealt with the srs lights and ecu reset for your car
They changed a bunch of things when the gens switched, engine- trans- control systems
Sorry we couldn't help you
Go to gen3 and ask for help- there are many racers and others who have dealt with the srs lights and ecu reset for your car
They changed a bunch of things when the gens switched, engine- trans- control systems
Sorry we couldn't help you
#35
not to be rude but you are in the wrong gen - our knowledge stops at 03 model TL
Go to gen3 and ask for help- there are many racers and others who have dealt with the srs lights and ecu reset for your car
They changed a bunch of things when the gens switched, engine- trans- control systems
Sorry we couldn't help you
Go to gen3 and ask for help- there are many racers and others who have dealt with the srs lights and ecu reset for your car
They changed a bunch of things when the gens switched, engine- trans- control systems
Sorry we couldn't help you
#36
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Just wanted to wrap up this love affair...after replacing the battery, everything is back in order. Basically I guess my original OPDS sensor hasn't taken a crap yet (may be). I kept the eBay OPDS in there anyways since it's working...and with a new replacement part number so I am hoping it'll be good for awhile. Thanks all for your valuable help in fixing this issue.
#37
We all need to remember to ask that one: you have codes and weirdness?
Have the battery and electrical system tested!!!
Once we confirm that's all correct, now what codes come up?
None? oh......ahhhhh
glad this was easy in the end, and thanks for reporting back
Post up your issue on your forum, low batt and false srs could be the next big headache for someone else!
Have the battery and electrical system tested!!!
Once we confirm that's all correct, now what codes come up?
None? oh......ahhhhh
glad this was easy in the end, and thanks for reporting back
Post up your issue on your forum, low batt and false srs could be the next big headache for someone else!
#38
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well f*ck me...the damn SRS light came back on...arghhh!!! I'm just about to drive this damn car straight to the lake or the junk yard. So freaking frustrating.
#39
Drifting
Today is your lucky day. Your SRS is currency completely cover under warranty, air bags and seat belts.
Air bags... Takata Airbag recall.
Seat Belts... life time usefulness of the vehicle.
Bring your car to the dealer.
:gheywave:
Last edited by 01acls; 06-21-2015 at 02:28 AM.