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Old 12-16-2008, 6:35 AM   #1
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Driving Cycle ????

As well with the issue i had in the thread "multiple codes- please help"

Being that I had to go get the car inspected, i had my friend check out the car 1st. When he plugged in his snap-on computer to the car. Not all of the driving cycle tests have been completed.. 3 out of 8 have not been completed.

I have driven the car more than 500 miles since i changed the battery.

The codes i believe where the O2 sensors and the Catalytic convertor.

If i drove for such a long distance, why are these tests not completed? I've done highway and city driving. I even checked honda--tech.com and got the requirements from most honda driving cycles and attempted to complete them.( go from 0-25mph back to 0 then idle for 30 sec... etc.. etc...)
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Old 12-16-2008, 8:41 AM   #2
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Driving cycles for most emissions testing requires 150 miles of driving. (so ive heard) I dont know how the testing works but i believe it has to cycle without any trouble codes for that period to complete.
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Old 12-16-2008, 9:12 AM   #3
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The vehicle should be driven approximately 7.5 miles within a period of approx. 23 minutes (1372 seconds) from a cold start. However, due to manufacture variations, it is necessary to perform only as much of the Drive Cycle as is necessary to reset the required monitors to a "Ready" status. Operate the throttle smoothly to obtain best results. Do not shut the engine off during the drive cycle.
Step 1 (Engine Cold) Start engine, idle 20 seconds. Accelerate gradually and drive at 20-25 mph for 1 minute, varying speed.
Step 2 Accelerate gradually to 32 mph within 35 seconds. Decelerate to 0 mph in 10 seconds. Idle for 40 seconds.
Step 3 Accelerate at part throttle to 25 mph in 10 seconds. Cruise at 17-25 mph for 15 seconds. Accelerate gradually to 57 mph in 45 seconds. Cruise at 50-56 mph for 1 minute. Decelerate gradually to 0 mph in 40 seconds. Idle for 15 seconds.
Step 4 Accelerate at part throttle to 36 mph and maintain for 10 seconds. Decelerate to 0 mph in 15 seconds. Idle for 5 seconds.
Step 5 Accelerate to 30 mph and back to 0 mph within 30 seconds. Idle for 20 seconds.
Step 6 Accelerate to 36 mph in 20 seconds. Drive at 35 mph for 20 seconds. Decelerate to 0 mph in 15 seconds. Idle 5 seconds.
Step 7 Accelerate gradually to 26 mph and decelerate to 0 within 40 seconds. Idle 15 seconds.
Step 8 Accelerate to 27 mph in 40 seconds. Decelerate to 0 mph in 10 seconds. Idle 25 seconds.
Step 9 Accelerate to 26 mph in 15 seconds, maintain speed for 10 seconds, decelerate to 0 mph in 10 seconds. Idle 15 seconds.
Step 10 Accelerate to 23 mph in 20 seconds, decelerate to 0.5 mph in 10 seconds (no complete stop). Accelerate to 28 mph and back to 0 mph (momentary stop 1 second) within 35 seconds.
Step 11 Accelerate gradually to 34 mph in 45 seconds. Vary speed between 34 and 19 mph for 2 minutes. Decelerate from 25 to 0 mph in 25 seconds. Idle for 5 seconds.
Step 12 Accelerate to 29 mph in 15 seconds, decelerate gradually to 0 mph in 45 seconds. Idle for 30 seconds.
Step 13 Accelerate gradually to 28 mph and back to 0 mph (momentary stop 1 second) within 50 seconds. Accelerate gradually to 27 mph and back to 0 mph within 55 seconds. Idle for 15 seconds.
Step 14 Accelerate to 24 mph and back to 0 mph within 18 seconds. Idle for 10 seconds. Accelerate gradually to 22 mph and back to 0 mph within 50 seconds. Idle for 8 seconds.
Step 15 Accelerate gradually to 30 mph within 50 seconds. Decelerate to 0 mph in 10 seconds. Idle for 25 seconds.
Step 16 Accelerate to 23 mph and back to 0 mph within 30 seconds. Idle for 10 seconds.
Step 17 Repeat steps 1 - 16 once again. Recheck the status of the "Readiness Monitors".

NOTE: Remember, clearing DTC's or interrupting power to the ECM after the readiness monitors have been reset to "Ready" will require that the Drive Cycle be repeated.

Completing the Drive Cycle successfully one (1) time should reset most drive cycle monitors to a "Ready" status. However, there are "two trip" monitors, which require that the drive cycle be successfully completed two (2) times, to achieve a "Ready" status. Furthermore, systems which use averaging, may require the drive cycle to be completed more than 2 times. It is necessary to perform only as much of the Drive Cycle as is necessary to reset the required monitors to a "Ready" status

"this is taken directly from alldata" i always do this and have never had any issues. if this doesnt work then you might have some problem with the computer losing power after you shut the vehicle off. i have never been unable to get the monitors set within 25 mins or so of driving unless its a dodge van or truck which some of them take like 60 warm up cycles to complete. hope this helps
Lets say Both the O2 sensors haven't been changed. But they aren't giving any CEL's. It doesn't make sense why the cycles for the O2 sensors aren't being completed.
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Old 12-16-2008, 10:36 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StylesT28 View Post
Lets say Both the O2 sensors haven't been changed. But they aren't giving any CEL's. It doesn't make sense why the cycles for the O2 sensors aren't being completed.
It's NOT a drive cycle for a certain replaced component. Once the PCM has been reset for WHATEVER reason, a drive cycle has to be completed before a PASS can be obtained when testing. If there's still a failed component or a hard fault, (ie, your O2 sensors)the drive cycle doesn't necessarily have to be completed for check engine light to come back on, but has to completed in order to get a PASS instead of the P1000. The P1000 is how shops who are doing the smog check know if the PCM has just been reset to turn off the light. Once the car completes the drive cycle, the PCM throws the PASS. If your car was throwing the code after you reset the PCM, and now it's not, chances are good that you figured out the failed part, but that isn't necessarily the rule.

Last edited by substanger; 12-16-2008 at 10:39 AM.
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Old 12-16-2008, 11:56 AM   #5
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if your car says not enough info- you need to follow ACURA TL owner book instructions~

Testing of Readiness Codes:
If you take your vehicle for a state emissions test shortly after the battery has been disconnected or gone dead, it may not pass the test.
This is because of certain "readiness codes" that must be set in the onboard
diagnostics for the emissions systems.
These codes are erased when the battery is disconnected, and set again only after several days of driving under a variety of conditions.

If the testing facility determines that the readiness codes are not set, you
will be requested to return at a later date to complete the test.

If you must get the vehicle re-tested within the next two or three days, you can
condition the vehicle for re-testing by doing the following.
• Make sure the gas tank is nearly,
but not completely, full (around 3/4).
• Make sure the vehicle has been parked with the engine off for 8 hours or more.
• Make sure the ambient temperature is between 20 and 95 F.
• Without touching the accelerator pedal, start the engine and let it idle for 20 seconds.
• Keep the vehicle in Park.
Increase the engine speed to 2,000 rpm and hold it there until the
temperature gauge rises to at least 1/4 of the scale (approximately 3
minutes).
Select a nearby lightly traveled major highway where you can maintain a speed of 50 to 60 mph for at least 20 minutes.
Drive on the highway in D5.
Do not use the cruise control.
When traffic allows, drive for 90 seconds without moving the accelerator pedal.
(Vehicle speed may vary slightly; this is okay.)
If you cannot do this for a continuous 90 seconds because of traffic conditions, drive
for at least 30 seconds, then repeat it two more times (for a total of 90
seconds).
• Then drive in city/suburban traffic for at least 10 minutes.
When traffic conditions allow, let the vehicle coast for several seconds without using the
accelerator pedal or the brake pedal.

If the testing facility determines the readiness codes are still not set, see
your Acura dealer.

NOTE: Some Emission parts are covered to 8 years/80,at least 5/50 on the rest of them
Check before spending big money
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Old 12-16-2008, 12:16 PM   #6
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Do you know which tests were incomplete? If you know how to mess with OBD2 data send an 0101 and the result is a bitmask of incomplete tests.

These are the possible tests, but not all cars support all tests. However with the tests your car does support, three are in an incomplete state:

- Misfire
- Fuel System
- Components
- Catalyst
- Heated Catalyst
- Evaporative System
- Secondary Air System
- A/C Refrigerant
- Oxygen Sensor
- Oxygen Sensor Heater
- EGR System
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Old 12-16-2008, 1:28 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by newperson View Post
Do you know which tests were incomplete? If you know how to mess with OBD2 data send an 0101 and the result is a bitmask of incomplete tests.

These are the possible tests, but not all cars support all tests. However with the tests your car does support, three are in an incomplete state:

- Misfire
- Fuel System
- Components
- Catalyst
- Heated Catalyst
- Evaporative System
- Secondary Air System
- A/C Refrigerant
- Oxygen Sensor
- Oxygen Sensor Heater
- EGR System
Those Three were incomplete. I only had CEL's for misfires cyl 1-5 and random misfire. The reason for the PCM being reset was i changed the battery. And i have driven the car for over 500 Miles since the battery change
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Old 12-16-2008, 2:46 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by substanger View Post
It's NOT a drive cycle for a certain replaced component. Once the PCM has been reset for WHATEVER reason, a drive cycle has to be completed before a PASS can be obtained when testing. If there's still a failed component or a hard fault, (ie, your O2 sensors)the drive cycle doesn't necessarily have to be completed for check engine light to come back on, but has to completed in order to get a PASS instead of the P1000. The P1000 is how shops who are doing the smog check know if the PCM has just been reset to turn off the light. Once the car completes the drive cycle, the PCM throws the PASS. If your car was throwing the code after you reset the PCM, and now it's not, chances are good that you figured out the failed part, but that isn't necessarily the rule.
I never said i changed the o2 sensors. I only replaced the spark plugs(OEM)

I already said Three tests were not completed: Catalyst,o2 sensor,and o2 sensor heater(i just didn't remember the exacty name until Newperson stated them)

In the other thread i said the only CEL's I had were Misfire Cyl1-5 and Random misfire. Never a o2 CEL.

And the CEL didn't go away.

Last edited by StylesT28; 12-16-2008 at 2:49 PM.
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Old 12-16-2008, 2:55 PM   #9
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then its time to buy 1 coil $45 and try it on each cylinder until the dead one is found as fsttymys said- with ecu reset each time

Note the CL0CK fuse #13 on passenger footwell area, will reset the ECU without pulling the neg cable and needing radio code input over and over
THEN
Do the drive I posted- that was direct from the 01TL online owner book
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Old 12-16-2008, 2:55 PM
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