Car shut off while driving
#1
Car shut off while driving
My '02 TL has been having problems starting up for a couple of months. Try to start the car - immobilizer dash light comes on - pull the key - reinsert key and car starts up fine. Today, the car shut off while driving on the highway and the immobilizer light came on. I was able to pull the car off the highway, but it scared me to death.
I read some threads about this symptom being an ignition switch problem with '99 models. Do the later year models have the same problem?
thanks for any help!
I read some threads about this symptom being an ignition switch problem with '99 models. Do the later year models have the same problem?
thanks for any help!
#2
While it's possible that the ignition switch or immobilizer is at fault, try checking all of the battery's terminal connections and wiring. Also, go to a local auto parts store and have them perform a load test on the electrical system. Inspect the main ground to the tranny's casing as it's known to fray and corrode.
#3
that's what I would have said!
ck the cables- test the system FREE at parts stores and the big question
DO YOU carry a lot of weight on the key ring?
that will wear it out on both sides- the key and electrical part!
normally its just the back half= bought separate-with the electrical insides that dies
It may even show burnt marks-plastic melting or if taken apart- all burnt inside
Wiggle your key with engine running- car PARKED! any change to ignition- replicate symptoms?
ck the cables- test the system FREE at parts stores and the big question
DO YOU carry a lot of weight on the key ring?
that will wear it out on both sides- the key and electrical part!
normally its just the back half= bought separate-with the electrical insides that dies
It may even show burnt marks-plastic melting or if taken apart- all burnt inside
Wiggle your key with engine running- car PARKED! any change to ignition- replicate symptoms?
#4
I would start with the most likely suspects= battery prob or cables/ crud buildup inside cable or at connections
As the harder to start has been occurring for a few months = mine was battery going bad, even tested good on 2 occasions at battery store, then finally 1-2 months later and very very hard to start = just made it to the shop~
As the harder to start has been occurring for a few months = mine was battery going bad, even tested good on 2 occasions at battery store, then finally 1-2 months later and very very hard to start = just made it to the shop~
#5
Instructor
^^^ Do what they said first.... But I had the same problem as you and it turned out to be my ignition switch... Swapped it out for a new one and the problem went away...
#7
^^^ May be a good time to replace the cable for best results.
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#8
Thought I'd follow up for anyone else that finds this thread. Tightening the battery cable didn't fix the problem completely. I swapped keys and using the spare exclusively, the problem has gone away completely. Broken key, I guess?
#9
or worn out internals on ignition switch
spare key has no wear, so it engages whats left of the pegs in the cylinder
if the key is truly broken the immobilizer wont work at all
with that loose ground wire, there may be issue with corrosion inside the cables-
ck all of them including the 5 small braided wires from frame to engine
spare key has no wear, so it engages whats left of the pegs in the cylinder
if the key is truly broken the immobilizer wont work at all
with that loose ground wire, there may be issue with corrosion inside the cables-
ck all of them including the 5 small braided wires from frame to engine
#10
My 2002 TL Type-S died while driving (highway & city) a few times over the last three month. It didn't show any warning lights (check engine, etc.) before or after dying. Also, the car would start up as if nothing was wrong if I waited for 5 - 15 minutes after it died. I took the car to a auto store for a free OBD-II scan and found no engine problem codes either. After a lot of research I found that the most probable cause for this was either a failing Ignition Switch or Main Relay. Since my switch seemed to work well, I replaced the Main Relay. I've been driving the car around for four days now without any problem. Just so you know, I also learned that depending upon the symptoms the other sources of failure (in decreasing order of likelihood) could be the fuel pump, camshaft position sensor, or the crankshaft position sensor. However, apparently the last two would show the "Check Engine Light" indicator.
#11
Sounds Like the Main relay.... which is located under the steering wheel ...this happens very frequently to all 2nd gen models ..... change that it might help....go to your nearest junkyard to save uyou some money...
#12
6th Gear
Iginition relay location?
I had the same problem today my 99 TL. I was on the freeway doing about 70 72 miles an hour, when all of a sudden the Green Key light in the instrument panel started flashing. Then all gauges and car died. I started to pull over as I was in the fast lane, turned on my hazard lights, andand after crossing two lanes car magically just started running again. All gauges came back to life normally for about 5 more minutes. It happened again about 5 miles down the road, scare the crap out of me. What I'm wondering is what is the exact location in a 99 TL p of the ignition relay? Any help would be appreciated, thank you. I bought this car for $400 and then slowly been fixing it little by little. When I bought it the gauges didn't work, windows wouldn't roll down, it had no power and would shutter when you took off from a light. Took a gamble with money my family didn't have and thanks to acurazine I was able reseach and fix all issues. It now runs well but obviously as a "mechanic special" project car with 213,000 miles there's still a few bugs to work out. If someone could describe the location of this relay and what it generally looks like that would be helpful.
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