narnia

My wipers move, but fluid doesn't spray on my windshield and the reservoir is full. It's been really cold so I thought the fluid might be frozen in the line, but it's been like this a few days and my car is garaged. Is there something I could check before I bring it in for service?

Alee:)

see if it's free from any dirt that may be blocking it from actually reaching your windshield.

nfnsquared

Yeah, if your rear view mirror green light is out, you've blown a fuse. Tons of threads on this. I think it's fuse #7, maybe #10, can't remember for sure. There was a TSB to replace it with a 10A fuse.

Will Y.

Can you hear any whirring noise, i.e. washer fluid pump noise, when spraying? (You may need to listen under the hood when someone else pulls on the stalk).

If there is pump activation, check the fluid lines to make sure they are properly attached and not crimped by the hood.

If not, then the problem may be a bad fuse, dead washer fluid pump or bad wiper switch.
G/L.

nfnsquared

Sorry, it's fuse #20. Your power mirror control won't work either. Fuse controls wiper fluid motor, the rear view mirror dimmer, and the power mirrors. Your fluid probably froze when you were outside and when you activated the window wash, the fuse blew due to the frozen fluid. If there is a 7.5A fuse in the #20 slot, replace it with a 10A fuse.

Lots of people with this problem in the winter months and most are not aware of the TSB.

Fulani has a TL

iTrader: (1)

Bet its just clogged tips, mine did that too, but then ran my finger across the tips, and it started spraying

narnia

Thanks for all the input, I'm going to try these when I get home this evening. Hopefully it's something as simple as a blown fuse.

narnia

The good news is...it seems to be caused by a blown fuse. The bad news...Acura doesn't give you a spare, and even if they did you have to be a contortionist to change a fuse.

Well I need to have my tires rotated, so I'll have them replace the fuse while the car on the lift.

Thanks for your help guys!

nfnsquared

Well, technically it was caused by activating the washer motor with frozen fluid in the lines and an under sized fuze. Be sure you replace it with a 10A fuse and buy lower temp fluid. FYI, there is a fuse puller in the underhood fuse box. Glad it's a simple fix!

blkaspec

good to know and now that i know, i will probably need it soon

gatrhumpy

iTrader: (1)

If Acura charges you to replace the fuse, tell them no thanks and head over to an Auto parts store. Pull the fuse using the fuse puller, take it into the store, and get a 10A fuse just like it. Replace it, and VIOLA! You're set!

narnia

I'm going to STS Tire. I buy my tires from them and get free rotations, and I also have my oil changed there. Since I'm a good customer they do small maintenance things like this for free.

2004acuratlgreen

You guys were dead on. Due to the cold weather the 7.5A fuse blew. As NFNSquared said that fuse controls the wiper fluid motor, the rear view mirror dimmer, and the power mirrors. My 2004 TL had a spare 7.5A in the engine compartment fuse box, along with the fuse puller (white) which is also located in under the hood fuse box.
Popped it in and back in business. I'll drop by the autoparts store and change it out with a 10A per the TSB mentioned in here. Thanks again.

VQPower37

cool ... seems like everyone is having wiper fluid issues ... i had a similar issue, but mine was resolved by holding the stalk back for like 2 mins then it just started to work ... weird

auto-router

No disrespect intended to nfnsquared but when is it ever a good time to override the manufacturers specification by increasing a fuse rating? I had this very thing happen to me in my case I ran out of fluid and it was cold. I replaced the fuse with the 7.5 per the spec and filled the reservoir. In my opinion if you replace with a higher rated fuse you are inviting the replacement of a washer pump or worse.

BTW: in the TL this fuse controls 3 items the washer motor, the rear view dimmer, and the side view mirror motors. None of these things are absolutely mission critical to driving. But I would rather replace a fuse than a burned up motor.

I bought 5 fuses for a total of $4.98 and I keep them in the car and maybe in another 5 years I might need another one.

Will Y.

It's a very good idea to override the original specs and update when the manufacturer recommends it in a TSB.

nfnsquared

No disrespect taken. I just ask that you read a little closer:

johnfilice

Sorry for thread revival, but I have this issue of the sprayers not working. The motors make the sound like it should be spraying but it doesn't. My rear view dimmer and power mirrors work so I don't think its a fuse, and I made sure there isnt any dirt blocking the nozzles, no luck. Any suggestions besides paying a mechanic?

pohljm

disconnect hose at pump to see if you have flow there if you have noise, then disconnect at split, etc. chances of both nozzles clogging at same time is nil

Will Y.

1) How much fluid is in the reservoir?
2) Check to see if any fluid froze in the line?
This should not be an issue if you check the fluid in the afternoon, but low temps in Rocklin are close to freezing, so this might be an issue in the early a.m.

If there's fluid in the reservoir and it's not frozen, follow pohljm's advice in the previous post.

Goldwinghai

I am glad that I've found this forum. My daughter's 2005 TL exhibited all of these problems. A 10A fuse fixed them instantly. Needless to say, my wife and daughter were very impressed. Many thanks.

chuckenheimer

I have one stuck windshield washer sprayer nozzle and wondered how to clear this condition. Thanks!

Will Y.

Insert a very small pin-- the size of those used to hold new dress shirts to cardboard forms inside packaging-- into the nozzle hole to push through any debris, if by "stuck" you mean the nozzle isn't spraying well due to dirt, wax or debris inside it.

Welcome to AZ.

chuckenheimer

OK, update here:

I have confirmed that the tube from the mounting point on the wheel well liner to the spray nozzles (under the hood lining cover - which I am trying to avoid having to remove) is clear and the driver side nozzle is perfectly clear. Furthermore, I see water dropping from the passenger side of the hood lining cover, but there is nothing emitting from that passenger side nozzle.
I stuck a sewing needle down the exit hole for the passenger side nozzle and see that it went in a shallow distance before bottoming out, attempted to somehow rotate the needle around to confirm it is clear but the window washing fluid refuses to flow onto the windshield regardless of my attempts. It appears that I am stuck at this point until I hear more suggestions as to how to proceed now.
Thanks for the original advice and know that I await any other further advice from anyone else who may offer help.

Sweeper

I too have the same problem. Passenger nozzle does not work but driver's side works fine. Tried clearing nozzle with pin to no avail. Tried compressed air into the main hose under the hood that connects both nozzles, but that didn't work. Appears that the area behind the nozzle is wet but the black plastic part attached to the hood stops me from viewing the hose connection. Does anyone know how to remove the black plastic part/cover so I can view the connections to the nozzle? I tried pulling on the cover but I'm afraid it will break. Any suggestions???

01acls

Replace the nozzle assy. I think yours is like $300? Go use?

01acls

Replace the nozzle... $20. Please post a pic on the black plastic part?

Sweeper

Thanks, I just may have to replace the nozzle. The black plastic part is called #16 on the diagram, called Clip, Washer Tube. It just covers the nozzle area on the hood and it needs to be removed to access the nozzle. Someone mentioned that you'll probably damage it when trying to remove it, something that appears very likely. I'll do one last try with the compressed air, but when I do so, I'll block the outlet of the driver's side nozzle to prevent air from escaping since the compressed air took the path of least resistance when I did it last time. If that doesn't work, then I should, like you say, replace the nozzle. The diagram of the area shows the nozzle listing at $28.75 and Delray Acura's price at $21.56. Before I order one, I'll try removing that plastic cover - if broken, that another $6.98. Thanks again,

Sweeper

Ok, I believe I have your solution as your problem is identical to what I was experiencing. I blew more compressed air in but that did not work. So I removed that black plastic piece to see where the water was coming from. I needed to use a screwdriver to pry the black plastic piece from the hood - there is an opening facing the windshield where you can insert the screwdriver and pry off. There are two snaps, one on each side that you'll be pulling away from the hood. When the plastic part is removed, you have a better view and access. I then pulled on the hood lining just a little to feel a couple of inches to locate the hose that attaches to the nozzle. Just a few inches away, I felt the hose and pulled in out a little so I could see it better. I found that there is a connector that attaches the hoses and it was broken, and also noticed that the hose going from the broken connector to the nozzle was crystallized, very hard. I cut off the broken connector and inserted a new one, attached a new hose to the connector and the other end to the nozzle and everything is fine. Note that I had to cut the hose end from the nozzle as it was too hard to pull off. So I ended up installing one piece of hose and one connector. Hope this helps.

chuckenheimer

Nice! Are there perhaps any diagrams for viewing of this nozzle available online anywhere? I don't want to make a trip to the Acura dealer should I foul things up. Thanks again for staying with me here.

Sweeper

[QUOTE=chuckenheimer;15485907]Nice! Are there perhaps any diagrams for viewing of this nozzle available online anywhere? I don't want to make a trip to the Acura dealer should I foul things up. Thanks again for staying with me here.[/QUOTE

I'm not good with attaching photos otherwise I would. But there is nothing complicated at all. Your primary goal is first to remove that black plastic piece that you need to pry off with screwdriver. Actually, I didn't replace the black plastic cover yet as it's just cosmetic and you don't notice it when hood is closed. But I will eventually replace it. I installed a hose that's too long and I need to reduce its length and just didn't want to take the time. The place to insert your screwdriver to pry the plastic cover off faces the windshield. Stick the screwdriver in the slot between the hood and plastic cover and keep prying until it's removed. Then you'll see what's there and have access to the nozzle hose, etc. Just about 4 inches or less from the nozzle is the connector where my hose was broken off. You may have to stick your fingers in the area to grab the loose hose end that is broken off. You'll notice that the connector ends and the hoses that connect to it appear to be of a different size. I simply used a generic connector and one size hose that I happened to have. The generic connector fit snugly into the original hose under the hood and to my new hose. My new hose then connected to the nozzle - and if I may say, it works perfectly. Let me know if you have any other questions. I can send you an e-mail with photo of the generic connector I used and of the old hose that I think I still have if you want to see it. Once you have access to everything, it's simpler to just cut the old hose with connector off, and also cut the hose off the nozzle as it's stuck on there and you don't want to damage the nozzle. The connectors are purchased in a small package of various sizes from any auto parts store for, I would say, $2 or so. Unfortunately, I can't provide sizes as I just eye-balled the size and tried the fit. Some auto parts stores sell hoses by the foot and they are very cheap. You can get a few sizes of a foot each and see which one works.

LaCostaRacer

Same issue: fuses checked out, wipers rotated but no fluid flowing or sound. I bought an Amazon pump that was a direct replacement and all is well. I used the OEM grommet because it looked better than the one that came with the pump.

Amazon link: (

Windshield Washer Pump Replacement for Acura/Honda/Suzuki - OTUAYAUTO Factory OE Style with Grommet 89001132)

It's been a long hiatus for me. My TL is still kicking but is no longer my daily driver. The TL gets to go on road trips now which I think works better for it and me as compared to EV driving.