Tensioner Pulley?
07-21-2013, 11:08 AM
#82
drive bel
Even with a breaker bar, the only thing I am able to accomplish is loosening the bolt and removing the pulley. Please look at the pic I started in the thread "drive belt install help"
07-29-2013, 09:13 AM
#88
So would you (or anyone else) say its worth it to just get the whole assembly as preventative maintenance and since it seems like less work to replace the whole thing anyways (as opposed to just replacing certain pieces of it)?
Also, is this assembly the same from 04-08? I found one on eBay for less than $60 but it says it will fit an 07-08.
Last edited by Frosty; 07-29-2013 at 09:21 AM. Reason: Add
07-29-2013, 01:14 PM
#89
I would be shocked if it wasn't identical, but I won't confirm because I'm not sure.
Luke, that's what i did. My car sounded like a friggin supercharged annoying beast...opted to just get a new entire tensioner for $167...that way new tensioner, new belt and peace of mind to know ALL the pulleys were now new.
Luke, that's what i did. My car sounded like a friggin supercharged annoying beast...opted to just get a new entire tensioner for $167...that way new tensioner, new belt and peace of mind to know ALL the pulleys were now new.
11-12-2013, 09:42 PM
#95
I replaced my serpentine belt maybe 6 months ago, and its not making noise again as the weather has gotten colder. Belt conditioner helped for a day or two, but its squealing again. I looked at the tensioner indicator, and its a bit to the left of the optimal dash. I am wondering if the belt has gone bad or the tensioner is worn out. I have an 05 with 78000. I just ordered a replacement gates belt (have the dayco on now), going to see if that makes a difference. Any thoughts on this?
06-14-2015, 12:13 AM
#96
06 TL Owner and Comedian
I might be reviving reviving a really old topic but.
I recently replaced the tensioner pulley because when i put a stethoscope to it, it sounded bad.
I loosened the tension, removed the belt, put the new one on (im assuming new ones out of the box from dayco come pre greased if it was suppose to be greased, so i didnt put any one it)
Now my engine idle seems a shakier, and when i look my tensioner moves left and right alot (this is apprently normal) but now it RATTLES hard. is it suppose to rattle its brand new
its definetly tight
I recently replaced the tensioner pulley because when i put a stethoscope to it, it sounded bad.
I loosened the tension, removed the belt, put the new one on (im assuming new ones out of the box from dayco come pre greased if it was suppose to be greased, so i didnt put any one it)
Now my engine idle seems a shakier, and when i look my tensioner moves left and right alot (this is apprently normal) but now it RATTLES hard. is it suppose to rattle its brand new
its definetly tight
06-15-2015, 01:40 AM
#97
I might be reviving reviving a really old topic but.
I recently replaced the tensioner pulley because when i put a stethoscope to it, it sounded bad.
I loosened the tension, removed the belt, put the new one on (im assuming new ones out of the box from dayco come pre greased if it was suppose to be greased, so i didnt put any one it)
Now my engine idle seems a shakier, and when i look my tensioner moves left and right alot (this is apprently normal) but now it RATTLES hard. is it suppose to rattle its brand new its definetly tight
I recently replaced the tensioner pulley because when i put a stethoscope to it, it sounded bad.
I loosened the tension, removed the belt, put the new one on (im assuming new ones out of the box from dayco come pre greased if it was suppose to be greased, so i didnt put any one it)
Now my engine idle seems a shakier, and when i look my tensioner moves left and right alot (this is apprently normal) but now it RATTLES hard. is it suppose to rattle its brand new
its definetly tightI did the Dayco combo from advanced auto parts around 90,000 miles and now have 156,000 on the TL and no problems yet. I did have to re-tap the threads that the big bolt goes into because I started in crooked, so be careful of that. How many miles on your car?
06-16-2015, 01:21 AM
#99
06 TL Owner and Comedian
07-29-2015, 09:23 PM
#101
Extremely helpful thread!
Question, is the belt tensioner for the J35 and J32 the same? They have different part numbers but the J35 one is cheaper. I don't see how the part can be different, but was wondering if anyone had an exact answer:
J32 Part #: 04317-RCA-305 (Old P/n: 31170-RCA-A01, 31170-RCA-A02)
J35 Part #: 31170-RCA-A04 (Old P/n: 31170-RCA-A03)
Thanks in advance!
Question, is the belt tensioner for the J35 and J32 the same? They have different part numbers but the J35 one is cheaper. I don't see how the part can be different, but was wondering if anyone had an exact answer:
J32 Part #: 04317-RCA-305 (Old P/n: 31170-RCA-A01, 31170-RCA-A02)
J35 Part #: 31170-RCA-A04 (Old P/n: 31170-RCA-A03)
Thanks in advance!
07-31-2015, 10:32 AM
#102
Extremely helpful thread!
Question, is the belt tensioner for the J35 and J32 the same? They have different part numbers but the J35 one is cheaper. I don't see how the part can be different, but was wondering if anyone had an exact answer:
J32 Part #: 04317-RCA-305 (Old P/n: 31170-RCA-A01, 31170-RCA-A02)
J35 Part #: 31170-RCA-A04 (Old P/n: 31170-RCA-A03)
Thanks in advance!
Question, is the belt tensioner for the J35 and J32 the same? They have different part numbers but the J35 one is cheaper. I don't see how the part can be different, but was wondering if anyone had an exact answer:
J32 Part #: 04317-RCA-305 (Old P/n: 31170-RCA-A01, 31170-RCA-A02)
J35 Part #: 31170-RCA-A04 (Old P/n: 31170-RCA-A03)
Thanks in advance!
For 2007-2008 cars both the base model & type-s use the same tensioner. The part number is 31170-RCA-A04 and costs $92.34.
For 2004-2006, they list a different part number and it is indeed more expensive. The part number is 04317-RCA-305 and costs $149.30.
So it isn't a different part from J35 & J32. It's a different part between the years 04-06 & 07-08. I don't know what would be different about them, but would go with whatever part number matched my car.
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rangomango (07-31-2015)
07-31-2015, 11:02 AM
#103
I just looked this up on acuraoemparts.com
For 2007-2008 cars both the base model & type-s use the same tensioner. The part number is 31170-RCA-A04 and costs $92.34.
For 2004-2006, they list a different part number and it is indeed more expensive. The part number is 04317-RCA-305 and costs $149.30.
So it isn't a different part from J35 & J32. It's a different part between the years 04-06 & 07-08. I don't know what would be different about them, but would go with whatever part number matched my car.
For 2007-2008 cars both the base model & type-s use the same tensioner. The part number is 31170-RCA-A04 and costs $92.34.
For 2004-2006, they list a different part number and it is indeed more expensive. The part number is 04317-RCA-305 and costs $149.30.
So it isn't a different part from J35 & J32. It's a different part between the years 04-06 & 07-08. I don't know what would be different about them, but would go with whatever part number matched my car.
Anyone here use the gates one? If so, any comments about quality? Do the bolts use the same socket size?
I've seen people complain about the dayco one and that the bolts required different sockets. I'll avoid that one.
11-28-2015, 10:38 AM
#104
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Ok guys , I have a major issue. wife started car and heard a loud pop and whistling she shut it down and ,called me , opened the hood and found the belt and half the tensioner laying in the engine bay , now I have the other half of the tensioner and broken main bolt still on the block , does this bolt have normal threads or reverse threads , I'm going to attempt to get a right angle drill in there and drill out the broken bolt out and use an easy out to extract it but need to know the thread direction. unless you guys have and other ideas other than pulling the motor and drilling it out . thanks in advance and btw there was a slight chirp form the pulleys so if you are in doubt of changing these I would do it sooner than later to avoid this
11-28-2015, 11:27 AM
#105
06 TL Owner and Comedian
Ok guys , I have a major issue. wife started car and heard a loud pop and whistling she shut it down and ,called me , opened the hood and found the belt and half the tensioner laying in the engine bay , now I have the other half of the tensioner and broken main bolt still on the block , does this bolt have normal threads or reverse threads , I'm going to attempt to get a right angle drill in there and drill out the broken bolt out and use an easy out to extract it but need to know the thread direction. unless you guys have and other ideas other than pulling the motor and drilling it out . thanks in advance and btw there was a slight chirp form the pulleys so if you are in doubt of changing these I would do it sooner than later to avoid this
11-28-2015, 12:01 PM
#106
Race Director
11-28-2015, 12:17 PM
#108
Race Director
Yeah, 8 and 15 are normal threaded, 7 is reverse threaded.
Last edited by nfnsquared; 11-28-2015 at 12:25 PM.
11-28-2015, 06:40 PM
#109
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Got the broken bolt out thanks guys , pb blaster overnight soak, automatic center punch, right angle cordless drill some very sharp drill bits and some ez outs. I had to cut some of the drill bits to allow fitment ,it came out relatively easy
11-28-2015, 09:10 PM
#110
Race Director
An automatic center punch is one tool I don't have. Which one did you use and do you like it?
04-18-2016, 03:14 PM
#111
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Tensioner removal
I should also note....the main bolt through one of the pullies also holds the tensioner onto the motor....and has a plastic retainer on the back to aid when reinstalling it....this also makes the bolt come out SLOW....and hard to hand crank when lose...but again...its very do-able. But until you get it off the first time and see whats behind it...you will never know...lol. So just to prewarn ya....there is a plastic clip around one of the main bolts on the pullies that holds it to the motor (bottom pully as I recall....idler)...and just behind the casing of the tensioner itself is a small plastic ring around the bolt to keep it from falling out on reinstall I believe....and the bolt will seem friggin 14 miles long as you unbolt it....lol. Due to the proximity of the side wall of the engine compartment...THE BOLT WILL NOT COME ALL THE WAY OUT ON UNINSTALL>>>>BUT WILL BE LOOSE FROM THE MOTOR ITSELF AND COME OUT WITH THE WHOLE UNIT ONCE YOU GET ALL THE BOLTS OUT. Know this now. Thats why the clip is there....that bolt needs to be in there PRIOR to reinstall due to space. If not....you will never be able to get it in later. The others you can....that one you cant!
And does the lower pulley bolt have to be removed with an impact? I don't see how I can fit anything other than a wrench in the space available.
Also, if I use the gates assembly do you know if the plastic ring should be reinstalled with the new assembly?
04-18-2016, 03:23 PM
#112
Senior Moderator
Is the lower pulley reverse thread? I've heard yes & no from different people.
And does the lower pulley bolt have to be removed with an impact? I don't see how I can fit anything other than a wrench in the space available.
Also, if I use the gates assembly do you know if the plastic ring should be reinstalled with the new assembly?
And does the lower pulley bolt have to be removed with an impact? I don't see how I can fit anything other than a wrench in the space available.
Also, if I use the gates assembly do you know if the plastic ring should be reinstalled with the new assembly?
remove the whole unit to replace the pulley
08-31-2016, 02:17 AM
#113
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I'm doing this job right now at 230 in the morning. I've got the new assembly in. How tight does the idler pulley bolt need to be? If I tightest it down as tight as I can get it. The pulley doesn't spin bit if I gently tighten it if feels like the hole thing will come loose?
08-31-2016, 08:57 AM
#114
Race Director
Duh, look at the post right above yours....
02-01-2017, 12:31 PM
#115
We Are Venom
I'm doing this job right now at 230 in the morning. I've got the new assembly in. How tight does the idler pulley bolt need to be? If I tightest it down as tight as I can get it. The pulley doesn't spin bit if I gently tighten it if feels like the hole thing will come loose?
05-01-2017, 08:12 AM
#116
Okay - I re-read my post and I realized I didn't show the P/N for the 'other' pulley.
I was confused as to whether I needed the idle pulley or the tensioner pulley. The tensioner assembly has two pulleys - they're both the same size. The idler pulley is the one on the bottom and the tensioner pulley is the one on top (if I understand it correctly). Initially I bought the idler pulley which is P/N 89059. Although the dimensions are the same, they are not interchangeable. I took this one back and got the tensioner pulley. This is P/N 89007.
Like I mentioned earlier, we thought we had a problem with the A/C compressor since we could hear a bad grinding noise whenever the A/C compressor kicked on. However, when I put the stethescope on the compressor it didn't sound bad. Getting my head down a little closer to the noise I noticed the bearing bolt looked to be vibrating whenever the A/C was on.
Changed out the pulley and all is good.
I was confused as to whether I needed the idle pulley or the tensioner pulley. The tensioner assembly has two pulleys - they're both the same size. The idler pulley is the one on the bottom and the tensioner pulley is the one on top (if I understand it correctly). Initially I bought the idler pulley which is P/N 89059. Although the dimensions are the same, they are not interchangeable. I took this one back and got the tensioner pulley. This is P/N 89007.
Like I mentioned earlier, we thought we had a problem with the A/C compressor since we could hear a bad grinding noise whenever the A/C compressor kicked on. However, when I put the stethescope on the compressor it didn't sound bad. Getting my head down a little closer to the noise I noticed the bearing bolt looked to be vibrating whenever the A/C was on.
Changed out the pulley and all is good.
FWIW, the current p/n for the TL-S (and I assume all TL's) is 38006 for the DAYCO 2yr warranty pulley. It's 19.99.
The other autozone one is only a 1 year warranty, and at 14.99, it's better just to get the DAYCO one.
If the acura dealer around here had the oem one for $22, I would get that - but their parts dept is so outrageous it's always better to purchase online.
05-01-2017, 08:24 AM
#117
Oh, and oem part numbers for 2008 TL-S:
Tensioner pulley 31180-RCA-A02 $14.74
Idler pulley 31190-RCA-A02 $18.10
from here:
https://www.acuraoemparts.com/auto-p...r-bracket-scat
Tensioner pulley 31180-RCA-A02 $14.74
Idler pulley 31190-RCA-A02 $18.10
from here:
https://www.acuraoemparts.com/auto-p...r-bracket-scat
06-08-2020, 05:08 PM
#118
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^just to clarify, greco is talking about the crank pulley, not the idle or tensioner pulley's. And most won't budge with the biggest impact gun you can find. 5' breaker bar and a all the push you can muster usually breaks the bolt for the crank pulley and it will scare the shiz out of you when it does.
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