SoftwareDrone

I have the exact same problem. When I told my dealer to check out the vibration that primarily occurs at around 80MPH, their response was, "We can't drive it that fast because it's over the speed limit". What a copout.

Platnm0705

Like everyone else, I have the same issue in my 08 Type-S AT. It vibrates from about 30mph all the way up to 75mph. I dropped it off at the dealership and they said all 4 rims are bent

Sad that the stock rims are bent and the car doesn't even have 60,000 miles on it. Guess that's the risk of buying a used car. Now I get to drop money on rims that I had no plans to do! Damnit

giggity

Since the issue only occurs for me during light load at certain speeds I always thought it was the j engine switching between 3/4/6 cylinder usage. At light loads it only does use 3 cylinders / medium 4 / normal 6.

I could see how the torque converter switching between lock and unlock states could also cause a flutter. I know that when the transmission oil registers to cool the system plays with the converter to ensure the ATF is where it should be in temp.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Pretty sure the J motor does not have cylinder shut off...unless I missed the point of the post?!

giggity

You are correct, found out it's called VCM and there are j-series engines that have it just not ours.

importgrl727

Have any of us looked at this as a possible internal component of the transmission? I am in this process now. I would characterize my symptom as a "shudder" only during acelleration fron 25-40 and 60+. Replaced axles, have two different sets of tires. This IS NOT a tire issue, period. I replaced both axles and no change. My car feels as though it is vibrating through the steering column and floor board. Will be takign this to the local transmission co. as I have been working on fixing this for more than 1 year. I can GUARANTEE this is not a susppension issue as well as we have run through every moving component of the front suspension. Ugh!!

importgrl727

btw, 2004 TSX 6M w/ 83k. no accidents, one owner

RainSupreme

^ Is your car lowered?

egprelude

iTrader: (1)

What axle did you replace it with?

importgrl727

not lowered. I am not sure what axle brand was used but there was zero change, so the expense ended up being a waste. we came to the axle conclusion from posts here for the same problem but theirs was not fixed from this either. So frustrating as I am obviously not the only person experiencing this issue and am willing to pay whatever it takes to repair my car.

zeta

iTrader: (1)

It could be worn differential bearings (#5) and/or the differential itself (#1). This is were I would start.

04 TSX6MT
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

Instead of an annoying 'shudder' upon acceleration in my CL-S6, I get a noticable creeking/cracking sound while at constant speed in fifth gear around 45mph. I've been through the suspension, axles, wheel bearings etc; and it is still there. The tranny has 132K, so my next step is to have the diff. bearings replaced.

Good luck.

professor48

I just wanted to update: They did replace the motor mounts, all of them, but it really didn't make a difference. I'm bringing the car in tomorrow for an oil change and to have them check for the cause of the vibration, again. I'm not sure if I'll continue going to the dealer for oil changes or not. They use a semi-synthetic oil, rather than regular oil. If I get the same at the local oil-change shop, the cost is almost the same as at the dealership, withour the dealer's free car wash! It's just the scheduling and the drive there and back which are hassles. So, tomorrow, oil change, check for vibration, and (maybe) replace the front floor mats. The letters are peeling off the driver's mat, which shouldn't be happening in 32k miles. I'll let you know what the results are. Hy

importgrl727

So I took mine to the transmission shop this morning. He took it for a test drive and says everything engages properly. He said it could be a transmission mount but he was hesitant to take it apart and charge me for something that doesn't fix the issue. His recommendation....... drive it until it breaks because there is not obvious issue. My front end guy gave me the same advice after we replaced axles and bearings to no avail. COME ON, ACURA, love my car but loosing faith in you. There waws a time I was certain that my next car would be another Acura.

mdrolet77

The only thing that resolved the shaking for me was shutting off the ventilation. Ill be trying to get the fan+fan motor balanced to see what it does depending on how much of an hassle it is to get them out of the car.

cbflorida

Regarding the Steering Rack Guide Adjustment idea:

ADJUSTMENT
I straightened my steering wheel, jacked the car up, took off the drivers side wheel, loosened JUST A TURN OR TWO the 40mm lock nut using almost no force whatsoever (used large set of channel locks, unfortunately all I had) and tightened the set bolt with my 3/8 torque wrench set to 3.9N/m (the specifications listed in the Acura TL Service Manual). I did not "back it off" exactly to the 15/5 degrees listed in the manual, but did get it within 15-20 degrees close (about an "hour" prior to the Acura specification, if you pretend that it is a 12-hr clock).

PUTTING IT BACK TOGETHER
I tightened the lock nut BY HAND then attempted to tighten an additional 30 degrees with negative results...probably accomplished 10 degrees less than called for in the Service Manual due to my lack of proper clearance using channel locks instead of a 40mm wrench tool.

RESULTS
I did a quick spin around the block to find no change to the vibration. Obviously, my vibration comes from elsewhere--perhaps a bent rim that doesn't show on road force balances..... However, my steering is more intentional and "confident" as others have put it. For example: when I tug the wheel slightly to the left while traveling 40mph, the car stays going in that direction until I correct it. Prior to putting the car back in to "specifications" per the service manual (torqued to 3.9), the car would "reset" back to its nuetral direction (which, for my TL, has always been an annoying bit to the right).

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

honestly, even after having changed the axles and getting rid of the wobble...I sometimes feel like I can feel it again. I've learned to love and live with it...

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

anyone have more info on this?

bmarino1974

Has anyone tried putting it in neutral at high speeds to see if the vibration goes away? If it does then its probably an engine issue or torque converter problem. If not then something in the transmission or CV axles...Possibly rotor warping..Maybe try rotating the wheels..if that fixes it the a wheel is bend or unbalanced...other possibilities are wheel bearings or hub assemblies..if when the converter locks up and you feel it get better as your increase in speed then the motor is possibly misfiring or the motor mounts are worn. Usually at higher rpm's intermittent misfires or worn motor mounts aren't really noticeable but when the converter locks up at the lowest set rpm, speed or calculated load at say "900 - 1100" rpm the felt vibration will be worse. If felt mainly in the steering wheel as "shaking" or "wobbling" then motor and trans are out of the game. Start looking back to the tires, wheels, rotors, CV axles and bearings. Transmission could possibly be it but if that's the case, even you get a new one it will probably come back. Also exhaust interior resonance could possibly be the cause but highly unlikely or every stock exhaust TL would have the same issue unless there's a leak or something is loose. If your still bothered by the slightly noticeable "vibration", stop buying cars and get a bicycle..they don't have engines and moving parts spinning at a 1000 plus rpm's.

bmarino1974

Also, if the car is pulling in one direction its either low tire pressure on one wheel or brake caliper pressure is uneven if it does it when pressing the brakes. Even if you aren't, one caliper could be holding pressure on one side causing it to pull.

Mph4g63

So I guess no fix after all these years

TurboGSR96

My 08 tls has a light vibration between 70-80 too.. I have replaced the upper trans mount and front/side motor mounts and that didnt help much.

Could it be worn suspension components? I dont see much mention of that at all.

EM2typeflex

This is freakin discouraging to read. I might drop some serious money on what I think might fix this suspension problem, and it may not even be fixed. agh!

dngo

Just got a 2008 TL base navi and I have the same problem!

BC2G

axles?

kgbishop

its sad that after so many years there is no solution to this problem but after driving a volkswagen for prior years i realize that there are many contributing factors to vibration. from bad engine mounts, worn tires, tie rod ends, bad axles, bad alignment. the list could probably go on. i think every one might be experiencing different problems. more people just need to post their success story than more complains

kgbishop

I am not sure what to try there are so many different suggestion but then again i dont have half these problems i just bought an 04 acura tl it drives fine around the city cause i dont past 60mph but and i dont have any vibration in low rpm only time i have my vibration is when i am on the highway upwards of 70 i can feel vibration in the steering and in the floorboard and my seat my wife says she can feel it also in her seat. i am going to try and replace my motor mounts they look pretty worn and see if that fixes my problem

kev08wdp

Hey guys so I've noticed a little vibration like the car "struggles" slightly in the 25-30 mph range. My sister's Element has the same type of vibration at the 30-40 mph range too. Is it because I need to change the transmission fluid?? My car is completely stock and it didn't do this when I picked it up back in March

twelfthKnight

Hi all,

Just wanted to chime in on this issue.

I used to have vibrations that starts at 35-40mph and then gets worse when I hit +65 mph.

I changed the front and rear engine mounts and it seemed to have cured the 35-40mph vibration. Btw, my front engine mount was completely gone (i.e. the top portion was completely disconnected from the bottom portion). But, after changing the front, rear, side engine mounts and upper transmission mount, the virbation that occurs @ +65mph is still there.

So, next thing I did was to change the shocks. I've been wanting to switch to a-spec suspension for about a year and I figured that it's time for my shocks to get replaced anyway (I have 169k miles). Sad to say, changing the shocks did not solve the problem -- it lessened it due to improved damping but I can still feel it.

Next step it to change my driver-side axle -- it seems to be leaking a little so that might be the culprit.

Anyway, just wanted to share what I've done so far to cure this problem just in case someone's interested.

BC2G

After replacing all my motor mounts, new tires being mounted and balanced and still having vibration at 30 mph at low rpm 1500-1900... I went ahead and installed new axles.

First I did the 3x3 ATF changes (my old atf was black as tar i had let it go too long)

and

I installed Raxles 5/17/14 and I have NOT FELT The vibration since.

Locomaaan

iTrader: (1)

I have read that sometimes dirty or old spark plugs could cause the engine to vibrate at certain speeds. I have the same issue btw

02type-s

We just got my wife an 07 TL and I've noticed this not so much at certain speeds, but when holding the throttle steady going uphill. Almost felt like it was losing power for split seconds. Unbelievable how old this thread is and there's not a solution...

twelfthKnight

After replacing both axles, the problem has completely gone away. I inspected the old axle and I can hear a clicking sound coming from the engine-side boot -- this is probably what was causing the vibration.

96SC4

i get a slight vibration when i get to 70+, which isn't that often...

i just figured it was my tires.

getting them replaced before winter, hopefully that helps.

If it doesn't, i'll check into mounts, and bushings after tires ...

being i only have 56k miles, i'd hope it's not my axles!

and i also have one year old type S wheels...can't be that!

TheRB

Oh boys. Glad I am not alone. This seems to be a common problem with these cars. Replaced both of my axles and still no help. Hope someone find a fix for this someday.

BadVibe08

Hi all,
I finally figured out what this was. There was a gap between the weatherstrip and the door jamb and on certain roads/conditions, I'd get this annoying vibration and sound. The doors needed adjusting. Open your door. There are two screws underneath a plastic cover on the door strikers. Pry the cover off and mark where the striker is seated. I think I used tape. Try an eighth of an inch or less, a little is a big adjustment. Tighten the screws and close the door, adjust.... Don't slam it. It will be a bit harder to close, but no more noise for me. Good luck. I figure dealers or factory loosened them when people complained they weren't closing.

TheRB

^Good to hear, but don't think this will fix mine as my problem is rpm related.

SJOHN

Im getting the same vibrations as well. But its a bit spotty (on and off) it happens around 40 and goes away as i increase my speed, i also get the same symptoms around 78-80 i feel the same vibrations but when i pass 80 it goes away.. I have only skimmed thru some of the post and it looks like everyone is getting different outcomes. Any insight would be helpful.

TheRB

^Yeah, this seems to be a common problem that almost all auto TL experiences and yet no definitive solution for it

SJOHN

Just found this thread recently.. Didn't know it was that common. will have to take it in to get checked. Had the same symptoms awhile back when I flushed my coolant thinking that it was just air and now it's back, so I really doubt that was the problem.

I do have another question about a problem if anyone has come across or might be getting the same. When I break I get a really hard vibrations. Would it be warped rotors or axel?

Bk4u

My car is having the issue with vibration coming from my front end I believe it is from the wheel bearing or CV axle boots. Im so pissed at the car enterprise sold me.