rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Godspeed, Captain!

Wacker

I noticed quite a few complaining that the re-seal did not fix their issue. Something everyone needs to do, while the pump is apart, is check the bearing inside the pump. It is pressed on the shaft. Spin it and feel if its nice, quiet, smooth, and tight. If its loose, spins rough, or is hard to spin...it needs replaced. When I re-sealed my pump, it ended up being the bearing making the noise and I had to replace it. This was obvous when I spun the bearing by hand and it made noise.

Running with the pump wining too long will damage the bearing. The pump is sucking air causing it to cavitate. This causes lots of vibrations internally in the pump and the small bearing can only take so much.

This is why those who have done the re-seal with no luck finally had the noise go away when the pump was replaced. New pump = new bearing.

sam617

Is the parts on the first page compatible with the TL-S? Or does the TL-S have a different part number? Also, when loosening the belt tensioner, do I go righty tightly or lefty loosy on the ratchet? Thanks, Sam

leo221

My PS pump is leaking covered with grease too. fluid level is fine and no whinny. thought about getting a 16 bucks rebuild kit, till saw this,

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Great info, Wacker.

Tensioner goes left, or back toward the car with the breaker to get the belt off.

Great video find.

gmalfara72

Hi Gents,

This thread has been amazing. Noticed the wining and leaking of fluid during the last month or so. Lots of research and here as well.

bought a certified used pump from the stealership for $65 Canadian, also bought all the o-rings, seals and a new pulley....took apart the used one, replace all the o rings, seal and installed the new pulley (torque to 47lbs). All in all, $170 in total. Sorry gents, no pics, did the install in about an hour on a lazy Sunday, works like a charm!

now going to rebuild the old PS pump with new seals, o rings and other parts it needs and re sell it on craiglist/kijjiji

saved at least $400 + in parts and labour, considering in Canada OEM pump is $400+ and $250+ aftermarket

jeeva86

Anyone have the part #s for the TL-S PS Pump and its associated parts? I don't think my PS is leaking, but the turning the steering wheel is way too hard. I've gotten kinda used to it, but would like to get this fixed.

Murders23

Just bought an 05 tl 6mt. Noticed a leak on the oil pan, traced it to the power steering pump (Looks identical to the pictures above). Glad I stumbled upon this, was ready to buy a new pump. Hopefully this solves the issue.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I don't think a leaking pump will cause hard to turn, sounds like the pump isn't doing its job?

I think PN are same for Type s, but don't quote me.

Glad to see the thread still alive and kicking...having a late 2003 model in hot climate, I'm privy to most of the failures this car was gonna see before others.

Murders23

A lil off topic, but If the Tl-S uses the same psp. What causes their steering to be stiffer? Honestly think the steering is too soft for me on base Tl and wish it felt more like the tl-s.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I think the rack is different...not the pump.

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

Just did my power steering pump seals for the 2nd time today. First time was almost 3 years and 80k miles ago. This time around I did the bearing and also the seal behind it, along with all the other easy ones. After I put everything back, it runs fine and no leaks, but is having a whining now....a bit disappointed but I'll check everything again tomorrow

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

WTF?
Were you doing it just to be extra cautious or was it leaking again? A whine isn't good! Did you burp the system?

lexcoupe2100

Hey guys, my steering pump is definetly leaking in my 06 tl however steering its hard to turn, is rebuilding going to fix the stiffness or what else could it be?

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Could be the rack.

GKinColo08TL

Might just be a leaky "O" ring, a known problem and a simple fix. Google it, there are DIYs on here.

UA6andfriends

Upgrade your steering rack and pinion to the TL-S ones and you'll have better turning.

UA6andfriends

How do you go about removing the belt? When I use my breaker bar with 14mm socket, the tensioner pulley won't move at all when im pulling towards the firewall.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

you sure you on the right pulley?
are you hitting the side mount?

UA6andfriends

Yeah i am and yeah it's kinda hitting the side mount, but even so, it feels like it doesn't pull back in a linear motion so I feel like it may break. :/

here's a pic

UA6andfriends

I'm working with what I got so I might just need to buy another breaker bar so I don't have to use that little adapter to fit my 3/8 14mm socket

94eg!

You need to use two combonation wrenches. Especially if you have long ones. Put the 14mm box end over the nut. Then take another wrench and slip it's box end over the open end of the 14mm. They will lock together making one longer wrench that is very low profile.

Just be careful as the top wrench has a tendancy to walk side to side. If it goes too far over it will slip and the lower wrench will spring back.



Also for $17, you can't go wrong with this...
http://www.harborfreight.com/serpent...kit-66344.html

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

you're resting on the mount in that picture, of course it feels solid...

Great suggestion, 94...that's an old trick that has saved my ass many many times...as recently as the little 4 bolts holding the primaries on a week ago.

UA6andfriends

A single socket did the job so all you will need is a 1/2 inch breaker bar with a 1/2in 14mm socket lol

don't get fancy like me and try to use a double attachment! Now it's time to get into this thing

also thanks for the suggestion 94eg! Much appreciated and I'll probably buy one of those tools for myself soon

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

best part is now you have renewed confidence and it'll all seem easy the rest of the way!

UA6andfriends

Indeed my good sir! I'll be back with my post results once I replace all the seals and bearing. pretty confident now that the squealing and leaking will go away!

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Well, I certainly do hope so, man!

UA6andfriends

Do you guys have any tips or tricks on removing the powersteering pulley nut? Is it reverse threaded or regular thread?

I'm letting some PB Blaster settle right now, but I'm not confident that it's going to help me get it off

UA6andfriends

Just kidding guys, PB Blaster actually did it LMAO ffs it's finally off.

If all else fails, PB Blaster your shit..

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

i use that in lieu of ky

UA6andfriends

Steering feels great now. Flushed the old stuff too

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Well damn!

djspot

iTrader: (1)

Just priced out the o-rings from Sherway Acura and a couple other Toronto are dealers.

Canadian Prices:
91345-RDA-A01 O-RING (13.0X1.9) $2.97 plus tax
91347-PAA-A01 O-RING (16.7X1.8) $3.05 plus tax
91347-P2A-003 O-RING (15.2X2.4) $3.85 plus tax
91348-P2A-003 O-RING (51.0X2.4) $7.22 plus tax
91349-P2A-003 SEAL, POWER STEERING PUMP COVER $9.42 plus tax
91370-SV4-000 O-RING (14.4X1.9)$8.23 plus tax

US Prices I found online:
91345-RDA-A01 O-RING (13.0X1.9) $0.59
91347-PAA-A01 O-RING (16.7X1.8) $0.65
91347-P2A-003 O-RING (15.2X2.4) $0.44
91348-P2A-003 O-RING (51.0X2.4) $0.92
91349-P2A-003 SEAL, POWER STEERING PUMP COVER $7.25
91370-SV4-000 O-RING (14.4X1.9)$0.83

so much irrational anger right now

94eg!

Someone has to pay for all that free healthcare!

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

InFaMouSLink

iTrader: (10)

Have to do this to my wife's MDX. Here are new part prices as of today. They are from CurryAcuraParts.com which is comparable to OEMAcuraParts.com. Added Power steering fluid and a new tank cap since it was only $1. Shipping would've been $12 but i'll pick this up for free instead. Biggest jump in price was the damn cover seal. Went from $5 to $21 and that's with website discount. Actual dealership had it listed at $30.

Fluid, P.S Part Number: 08206-9002A $3.07
O-RING (13.0X1.9) Part Number: 91345-RDA-A01 $0.55
O-RING (16.7X1.8) Part Number: 91347-PAA-A01 $0.61
O-RING (15.2X2.4) Part Number: 91347-P2A-003 $0.41
O-RING (51.0X2.4) Part Number: 91348-P2A-003 $0.86
O-RING (14.4X1.9) Part Number: 91370-SV4-000 $0.78
SEAL, POWER STEERING PUMP Part Number: 91249-PNC-003 $3.68
SEAL, POWER STEERING PUMP COVER Part Number: 91349-P2A-003 $21.20
CAP, OIL TANK Part Number: 53697-SB3-952 $1.12

InFaMouSLink

iTrader: (10)

Knocked this out today. Wasn't bad. The pulley nut is a bitch so I recommend if your going to do it, to loosen it while its still on the car with the belt off. Stick a screwdriver/wrench in it to prevent it from turning and your good to go. Everything else was pretty straight forward. My housing seal was flat and brittle. AcuraZine FTW again.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I miss working on a J

b15

I rebuilt mine this past weekend, took longer than anticipated but that was my own fault. I didn't pay attention to the vane placement or orientation of the parts (dot side always facing the rear) the first time around, thinking that it didn't matter. Ended up with a terrible whine on startup. Came back to this thread and Eric's video on Youtube and took it all apart again, cleaned and carefully reassembled. Car was silent this time.

Overall this is very easy to do. Take your time and don't rush like I did because that just ends up wasting more time and PS fluid. Lots of good info on this forum!

exlex

Huge thanks top the op of this old thread. After re-assembling everything and flushing my PS fluid, I had great power steering and no whine. After driving for ~5 minutes with dreamy steering, I completely lost power steering and it hasn't returned since.

Watching one of the videos in this thread, I might have re-assembled the pump incorrectly - I wasn't paying attention to the direction of the veins and may have put them in backward.

Looks like I need to order a replacement!