stavebomb

Hey guys. So, the cruise control button on my steering wheel has broken and I would like to replace this on my own--the dealer quoted me $160 to replace it. I have seen threads on here where people have replaced burnt out bulbs in these buttons, but does anyone have experience with replacing an entire button? If so, do you have a DIY and a website with decent prices for a new switch? It is the button that clicks when you push it down to turn the cruise control on, not the button that sets it.

RU_JELLY

iTrader: (1)

take it out and play with it a little before you go to replace it. mine was sticking and i took it out and cleaned it and got it working normal again

stavebomb

Okay, I might as well give that a try. Mine isn't sticking though--it doesn't stay down at all!

I found some work diagrams in the 3G Garage, but when I click on the link for parts I can't seem to find the exact part that I might need. Any ideas?

This is where I was looking: http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

The link to the list of parts is posted in the link below.

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/steering-wheel-switches-cruise-radio-air-bag-removal-3g-garage-f-160-a-606220/

Thatcarguy1994

Can i reopen this? I have this problem and still cant find the part.im sorta new to the forum

nfnsquared

Use the link in the post before your post for removal instructions:

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=606220

parts link:

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

Osirus

I am having the same problem any one found the part ?

3RDGENTL757

If the button will not stay pushed down then you do need a new button.....it's pretty easy to replace.....unhook the battery and wait 3 mins...then get a t30 or t27 torx bit I believe and remove the drivers air bag.....disconnect the connectors to the spiral cable and then remove the steering wheel....make sure your wheels are straight and that you DO NOT TURN THE SPIRAL CABLE with the steering wheel off use tape to keep it in place....remove the steering wheel wire harness and flip it over...there should be 2 screws that screw into the switch to hold it in place....remove the screws and then remove the switch....install in reverse order of removal

stavebomb

I finally got around to installing a new switch tonight--years after it broke...

I wish I would have replaced this damn part as soon as it broke! It's actually a very simple install, provided you have the appropriate tools.

NO NEED TO REMOVE ENTIRE STEERING WHEEL, AS WAS AFORMENTIONED You can access the bolts that hold the cruise control switch in place by moving the steering wheel around to different positions with the key in the ignition.

You need:
- A torx bit size 30 (these bolts are torqued down pretty tightly, so be careful not to strip them)
- A Philips bit to access the two Philips head bolts that hold the switch in place
- A small ratchet with small extension (used for both torx and Philips bolts)
- Something flat to pry off the panel that houses the airbag connector

In order to access the Philips bolts located in the deep tunnels behind the steering wheel, I would recommend a long Philips bit that can be attached to a ratchet; something like this: Bosch, 2 in. Length Number 1 Phillips Head Power Insert Bit, CCP1201 at The Home Depot - Tablet

In the event the link is changed for removed, the link displayed a long Philips bit (you want something approx 2 or 2.5 inches in length.

***the holes on the back of the steering wheel lead me to believe the Philips head screws would be tiny, but they aren't that small. I am not sure of the size, but an average Philips screw driver fits perfectly into these.

I don't think the Philips bolts come out of their respective holes, so don't worry about this. Just losen them until you can free the switch assembly from the front of the steering wheel. Once you are ready to install your new part, from the front of the steering wheel,use something skinny to push the Philips screws as far back as they will go. Slide your new switch assembly into place, hold it there firmly, and then tighten the Philips screws from behind the steering wheel.

Also, the horn connector and airbag connector are very apparent and easy to disconnect.

If you reference this and the work manual scans posted earlier, this job should be a breeze. Make sure you disconnect the negative terminal on your battery and have the radio code to unlock you radio once you reconnect!!!! Mine is written in my vehicles manual that I keep in the glove box.

I am more than willing to help anybody with this, so if you have questions please respond to the thread or feel free to send me an email at stevejlutz@gmail.com. This forum has served me so well, I am glad to finally provide some useful info on a not so popular, but relevant topic!

BlackArrowWTC

Thank you for keeping up with the post! My Acura has the exact same issue for the past few months, and I'm desperate to replace my Cruise Control. Is this the same part you replaced?
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1430829,parttype,10743

stavebomb

No problem. I think the link you posted is for a different part. I used this one:SWITCH ASSY., AUTO CRUISE SET | Genuine Acura | 36770-SEP-A01

stavebomb

Oops I tried to post a link. Not sure why it got converted. Just Google that part number. It's like $35 bucks.

stmitch

I just posted this on Acurazine for a quick and less than pennies fix: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...y-down-961852/

Enjoy and the best to you!

tsjacomet0209

Hey Guys! There's an easy fix for the cruise switch. I bought it on eBay for like $15 and it came with instructions (but you can also buy it on Amazon).

eBay switch with instructions:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/32251469083...84.m1558.l2649

Amazon switch with instructions:

Cheers!

zzz9

Hi,

The steering wheel remote control for the Information/Select/UP/Down buttons stopped working on my 2007 Acura TL. Is it possible to replace just the part with these buttons on the steering wheel, or does all of the Cruise Control/Bluetooth/Audio controls have to be replaced together?

Really appreciate your help on this!

csmeance

you can replace just those buttons! pretty much the same thing as removing the airbag and then the switches for the cruise control

zzz9

Would you have a part number for just the Info/UP/Down buttons? The part # I have is 35880-SEP-A31ZA, but it looks like includes all the INFO/Cruise/Bluetooth/Audio buttons. Or do I need to get 35880-SEP-A31ZA and break out the INFO buttons then replace only that?
Thanks

csmeance

https://www.ebay.com/itm/05-06-07-08...sid=m570.l1313

that's out of a type s so it'll have red bulbs but pretty much what you should need.

zzz9

This part for the Type-S is also compatible with my Non-Type-S vehicle? These are the buttons I need to replace in the picture, but not sure why the title says 'Cruise Control Switch'.

DSteck

This might be a solution. I looked on Youtube and a guy has a simple fix and looks really inexpensive.

VIDEO:
https://www.mouser.com/ Part # 688-SPPH120400

DickSchottky

I was unsuccessful with the Mouser switch listed above.The form factor of the white Mouser donor plunger must have changed. It was too tight for the spring to reliably cause it raise and lower. I ended up buying a replacement switch on eBay (also available on Amazon) which I soldered in place after desoldering the broken switch.

For me, the key step in the video above was removing the four screws on the inner plastic shroud, which allowed it nudge sufficiently to access the two screws behind the cruise control button.

Also, you might find it easier to put the steering wheel in the 180-degree location so you can have easy working access from outside of the car rather than leaning over the console or working from the passenger seat.

stmitch

Hello, Dick, maybe I am too late for such a fix but several years ago I posted this as a simple fix: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...y-down-961852/

No new switch or screws, anything on this fix except a bit of aquarium tubing

Take good care, Steven

DickSchottky

Steven-- Thank you for taking the time to show your approach to this common problem. I genuinely appreciate it. It was familiar to me when I began repairing my cruise control switch, which was stuck in the “on” position.

Apparently, the prior owner of my car had seen your post. When I removed my switch I discovered a sunflower seed shell wedged between the switch and the housing, much as you suggest with aquarium tubing. As soon as the shell was removed, the switch retracted and the cruise control light turned off. As expected, the switch now refused to engage in the “on” position.

Were I to have half an ounce of sense, I would have closed up the steering wheel and been done with it. Why? Because there is a zero chance of me ever using the cruise control on this car. I never use cruise control. Ever. Why then did I dick around for a few more hours getting this feature repaired to full functionality?

Part of my pathology is that I am committed to doing things “right.” What is “right” varies from person to person and my “right” is different and not necessarily better than anyone else’s. Budget is often a big lever in "right." One metric I use when completing a task is to think of the conclusions that the next person who sees my work will draw, particularly if that person is a professional in the domain.

I’ve worked in construction for a good part of my career and I always take some time to thoughtfully route my romex or copper pipe, even though it will all be buried behind drywall and poorly routed work would likely function no worse than my more disciplined work. In many cases, I will be in a box before anyone ever sees my work, so my approach may seem doubly foolish to others.

Similarly, I always use the “right” components. Again, what I judge to be “right” will differ from others. Plastic junction boxes are not “right,” so I use deep 4-square metal boxes so that the next person has an easier time of it and can expand the system if necessary. I try to label anything that would be helpful to someone seeing my work. Does this cost the owner a couple more dollars? Marginally yes, but I only work with people who like doing things right. My speed can usually overcome any material cost saving.

A person who got this was Steve Jobs. Despite being an insufferable dick in many capacities, he made products that were as beautiful inside as they were outside. Even something as simple as an Apple switch-mode power supply wall wart is a thing of beauty on the inside. He used far more glue than I would have, but I must give credit for the circuit boards and packaging.

Just as the sunflower seed approach didn’t feel right when I discovered it, neither did your tubing approach. I applaud your cleverness, but, to me, both approaches just kick the can down the road.

Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance had a big impact on me. Pirsig’s Metaphysics of Quality resonated in a way that influences much of what I do, both professionally and personally. Matthew Crawford’s Shop Class as Soulcraft also impacted me, but more on a professional level. A beautifully dry-stacked stone wall does not go unnoticed by me. Nor does architectural trim placed on a building where few will ever notice it.

So here’s an example of where my philosophy falters. The handsfree link (HFL) on this car (‘07 TL) doesn’t work. Parasitic draw by the HFL is probably the most common recurring problem on these cars. Will I fix it? I don’t know. There is no simple, cheap repair to the HFL problem that I know of. Like cruise control, I will never use a properly functioning HFL. So for now, I have unplugged it and kicked the can down the road.

stmitch

Dick, I so appreciate your philosophy in doing it "right". And as you were first sharing I thought of Steve Jobs and his stepdad and his talk with Steve early on as he taught him that the inside painting of a fence was just as important as the outside as you noted with plumbing. Too, with using a Mac since the later '80s there, in my book, are no electronics on the market that has the aesthetics, ease of use, reliability of built and performance of an Apple product - I digress.

I rather laughed out loud upon the reading on sunflower seed shell, Dick - now that is funky no matter what way you look at it! And… as I listen to your excellence to “making it right, doing it right, for yourself, others after you… all very good, Dick. And… on the other side, as we turn over the coin - a burden, a legalism of mind if taken too far… in my own view a time, dedication sink, of no return; as I saw the death of Steve Jobs who could have afforded the greatest of medical attention, but instead…

I love automobiles, Dick, and I go to car shows for the cars, but I enjoy more the owners of the cars and talking to them. There was a season a few years back when I asked the questions of owners standing by their cars, “What did it cost you and I am not asking in regards to money - what did it cost you?” His response has been a hinge to my heart and my thinking ever since in regards to what is really important. He looked me dead in the eye and repented,

“My marriage.”

After reading many forum responses on pulling off the steering wheel, watching the airbag, this screw first, that screw next, doing all this to buy a part that was manufactured no different than the one that originally failed and then… the time…

In this case “getting it right” for me was quite wonderfully and simply (even if the cut was a bit rough on the side showing) a piece of aquarium tubing for a guy that uses cruise control anytime and EVERY TIME I get on the freeway… ahhhhhh… This fix was brilliantly simple and effective and it sure beats the torment I continue to read on forum blogs to fixing it that take longer in the typing than I took to fix the problem!!!

Maybe it’s the same as what you have decided to avoid in the HFL problem, Dick and YES I fixed that problem as well for like cruise control I used it all the time!

“My marriage”, your battles, my battles and our continued reflection in “What is this decision going to cost me and I’m not talking cash…

The best to you, Dick, and thanks for getting back to me - well worth my time, our time.