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From the looks of it right now, all I can see is the rubber part that is right under the stock intake box. It has a crack in it. Im going to pull the intake off tomorrow and check the whole mount.
It doesnt seem like they just sell the rubber part. It looks like you need to buy the whole bracket #17
From the looks of the picture, it seems like there are 3 mounts for the trans? Is this the case?
i took it to the dealership under the acuracare warranty and they replaced it for me. still didn't solve the thump issue when going from park to reverse. Especially when the car is on an incline. When it's on a level surface, there is little to no thump.
pull up for e brake before you put the gear selector in park so the weight of the car is on the brakes no ur tranny then when u get it put the car ingear before u relase the brake should help you out a lil bit
i took it to the dealership under the acuracare warranty and they replaced it for me. still didn't solve the thump issue when going from park to reverse. Especially when the car is on an incline. When it's on a level surface, there is little to no thump.
That's the pawl bar, not related to your transmission mounts. When on unlevel ground make sure you press in your brakes and engage your ebrake before shifting into gear to minimize the effect.
Looks like an easy fix.. You might not even have to remove / disconnect the J-pipe to swap it. Just support it with a jack and 2x4 under the pan or by the engine side of the TC housing.
I replaced the upper trans mount today and noticed it was cracked in 2 spots and starting to crack in another spot also. I still have to check the other 2 mounts.
I think I've got the same issue: Broken/torn Upper Transmission Mount.
Anyone know if it's part of the drive train warranty?
Car is 4 1/2 years-old and ~55,700 miles.
Edit:
Parts Covered by the
Powertrain Warranty
Engine
Cylinder block and head and all
internal parts, timing gears and
gaskets, timing chain/belt and cover,
flywheel, valve covers, oil pan, oil
pump, intake and exhaust manifolds, engine mounts, turbocharger housing
and all internal parts, engine/
powertrain control module, water
pump, fuel pump, seals, and gaskets.
Transmission and Transaxle
Case and all internal parts, torque
converter, transfer case and all
internal parts, transmission/
powertrain control module, seals,
and gaskets.
Would that include or exclude the Transmission Mount? Does it count as an "engine mount" (which is covered)?
You probably already saw this...look at page 9 and 10. According to that it looks like you're not covered.. but with that said.. if a dealer hassles you about not covering that under warranty given your mileage.. I'd be shocked.
You probably already saw this...look at page 9 and 10. According to that it looks like you're not covered.. but with that said.. if a dealer hassles you about not covering that under warranty given your mileage.. I'd be shocked.
Just out of curiousity what are your symptoms?
Page 10 is where I grabbed the quoted bit in my previous post. Do you see something else or are we refering to the same bit?
I am a bit concerned about this:
....
Any failure caused by modifying
the vehicle, or by installing
accessories not authorized by
Acura. ....
As far as symptoms, nothing serious; maybe a little drive-line vibration, but I found this by visual inspection. The upper mount is clearly visible below the CAI tube and the rubber insert is "broken" on one "leg" and cracked (nearly broken) on another.
Edit:
Just called the local dealership (who's service dept I've always like and gotten good service from). They looked up the part and cross-checked to my VIN and the item should be covered under the 6-year, 70,000 powertrain warranty.
Need to have an SA look at it after the holiday to make sure I don't get stuck with an unexpected bill if I have the dealership do the work.
Page 10 is where I grabbed the quoted bit in my previous post. Do you see something else or are we refering to the same bit?
I am a bit concerned about this:
As far as symptoms, nothing serious; maybe a little drive-line vibration, but I found this by visual inspection. The upper mount is clearly visible below the CAI tube and the rubber insert is "broken" on one "leg" and cracked (nearly broken) on another.
Edit:
Just called the local dealership (who's service dept I've always like and gotten good service from). They looked up the part and cross-checked to my VIN and the item should be covered under the 6-year, 70,000 powertrain warranty.
Need to have an SA look at it after the holiday to make sure I don't get stuck with an unexpected bill if I have the dealership do the work.
THat's awesome! I'm having mine replaced as we speak but I have the extended warranty so wasn't sure if you were covered or not under the base warranty.
My symptoms are: When I switch from Park to Drive or Reverse, I FEEL and hear a clunk on my driver side floor board along with a noticeable jerk fwd. I know the normal clunk "noise" Honda's are suppose to have regarding the transmission.. but this is an abnormal one because I can feel it on the floor. Sounds more like something is loose and shifting.
I also have cornering & handling issues that I'm not sure if this might be the cause because from my understanding the Tranny on our cars also acts as a structural/stabilizing component for our chasis, so it could be.. but I'll find out soon.
THat's awesome! I'm having mine replaced as we speak ....
Post back on how it goes.
I won't be able to do mine until after the Holidays and I'm booked pretty much solid with travel the first 3 weeks in Jan. I'll have to find a Saturday when they can do this.
Can't seem to find much info on replacing these, I have all 3 I would like to replace all of them at once, has anyone done this and have any advice on how to access them?
I assume the upper mount you just go from the top but what about the lowers?
is this the manual or automatic tranmission? beacuse there both different... How hard was it to replaced it once the intake box was removed? how many bolts??
I have most of the symptoms of bad mounts somewhere. I am just going to pre-order what I need and return what I don't use. I am aware of the aftermarket options but I think I'm going to go with OEM ones. I don't want any coarseness/vibration issues.
OK so I just want to make sure I order the right parts here. These blow up diagrams are pretty confusing (as always) so I just wanted to confirm:
The red circled parts are the lower engine mounts.
#12 Front
#8 Rear
#11 Side
The blue circled parts are the lower transmission mounts (seems to be 2)
#15 Front
#16 Rear
The green circled part is the upper transmission mount
#17 Upper
Is that correct and complete? The manual states that some of the bolts need to be replaced too. The shrouds, brackets can all be reused I imagine? Anything else I need to order or know about this job? Sounds like the front/side and upper transmission ones are easy. Which ones are better left to be done by a shop (Rear/Lower transmission ones maybe?)
Last edited by rockyfeller; 01-27-2015 at 02:45 PM.
I have most of the symptoms of bad mounts somewhere. I am just going to pre-order what I need and return what I don't use. I am aware of the aftermarket options but I think I'm going to go with OEM ones. I don't want any coarseness/vibration issues.
With brand new 3 engine mounts and the upper transmission mount, (did not bother to check lower one) my car had zero vibration in any gear at any speed. I think I was lucky the lower transmission mounts were fine, then again they don't move very much so they should last a looooong time. You would not be able to tell if the car was in gear or not by feeling steering, seat, door, or window.
Originally Posted by rockyfeller
OK so I just want to make sure I order the right parts here. These blow up diagrams are pretty confusing (as always) so I just wanted to confirm:
The red circled parts are the lower engine mounts.
#12 Front
#8 Rear
#11 Side
The blue circled parts are the lower transmission mounts (seems to be 2)
#15 Front
#16 Rear
The green circled part is the upper transmission mount
#17 Upper
Is that correct and complete?
That's correct and complete. We don't see many of blue ones in need of replacement. I don't remember ever reading about lower transmission mount in need of replacement on this forum. When my car was having noticable vibrations in D or R @ 0mph, I had 3 mounts bad, a semi-ripped front engine mount, bad side engine mount, and bad upper transmission mount. Rear engine mount was still in good shape by the looks but since I got it out to inspect, I stuck in a new one anyway.
Originally Posted by rockyfeller
The manual states that some of the bolts need to be replaced too. The shrouds, brackets can all be reused I imagine?
Bolts are cheap and since you're from up north, just replace them. It will feel good and I do believe the vibrations pile up stress on those bolts. Especially the ones going into brackets mounted on engine block. Brackets for the 3 engine mounts can be reused (per FM).
Originally Posted by rockyfeller
Anything else I need to order or know about this job? Sounds like the front/side and upper transmission ones are easy. Which ones are better left to be done by a shop (Rear/Lower transmission ones maybe?)
Front is easy once you remove radiator fans. The fans are just annoying with lots of bolts up and down and 2 electrical connectors tucked away.
Side is very easy, just slide the power steering reservoir straight up (against gravity direction) and out of the way.
Rear depends on people. Some people said they can only be taken out from down below, removing exhaust components or even having to wiggle the subframe. For me personally I removed the front shock tower brace, and undid some clips that held wirelooms in place and I could wiggle it out toward where engine room fuse box would be. Just pop the hood and imagine the bar removed, and fuse box pushed toward the front of the car. Plenty of room. Mine is 07 so yours MIGHT be a little different but there is no known difference of wire locations in all 3G TL models.
Another thing about rear, the 4 bolts can be tackled with 2 x 16inch extensions easily but the one going into the engine, you will need a very low profile socket wrench because anything higher than 3/4" will rub against hard brake lines. I, took a normal wrench, put the 12point side over the bolt, then slid my jack handle halfway over the 6 point open end side and banged the other end of jack handle with a sledge. Tightening, it's only 40ft-lb so the wrench was about 9" long, I pulled as I leaned over from passenger side fender as if I was lifting something weighing 50-60lbs and called it a day. Did not have problem, did not use thread locker.
Upper transmission is also easy, but you'll have to remove the air filter housing's bottom piece, and if needed, battery tray out for easy access. I think it can be done with battery tray attached but I recall not having the tools sized just perfect to go around obstacles. If you do get to remove battery tray, a ratcheting wrench would help a lot. Very little wiggle room and (probably) rusted bolts. I didn't have ratcheting wrench so it took me 20 minutes to remove the battery tray alone.
Since you have factory service manual nothing should be out of order.
Oh and note the vacuum lines under front and rear engine mounts. I'm not sure which would be easier, to pull the lines with mount secured to subframe, or to pull the lines with mount freely moving around. I totally forgot about the lines until after I undid all the bolts and it was annoying, so if I had to do it again I'll pull the lines off first, then start removing bolts. They have no fastener, just pull them off by force taking care not to snap them. Now I don't have to worry about those little suckers because I've gone aftermarket.
I don't have to mention you have to support the engine with some sort of wood block from the oil pan or transmission case right?
But you do not need to support the engine when changing the upper transmission mount. Only for the 3 engine mounts.
Don't forget to "settle" the mounts before you fully tighten the bolts that connect the engine mounts to the (sub)frame.
Wow, I REALLY appreciate your clear and detailed reply! Thank you for taking the time to do that.
So OK, I was thinking the tranny ones were a definite, but yea it makes sense that they probably don't move as much as the others and is just more of a support.
I think I can handle the rest of them but that rear one sounds like a pain. I hate getting under the car that far inwards. Might rather have my cousin handle that one at his shop with a lift.
I have to figure if I need them first of all. Is it easy to tell externally or is it all shrouded/bracketted in and needs to be taken apart?
I think I can handle the rest of them but that rear one sounds like a pain. I hate getting under the car that far inwards. Might rather have my cousin handle that one at his shop with a lift.
I have to figure if I need them first of all. Is it easy to tell externally or is it all shrouded/bracketted in and needs to be taken apart?
If it's hard to tell from the diagram, the actual mount is covered up with a protective rubber shroud, which is held by the metal bracket. Unless you want to cut up the rubber cover, you will have to remove at LEAST this one bolt going into the engine block bracket (how? explained right below) to remove the rubber cover to visually inspect your mount. So, now that you're halfway done just "inspecting" ... might as well do the 4 bolts (like I said, easy with extension) and put a fresh one in for years to come. That was my reasoning behind it.
Anyway the bolt.
The jack handle + wrench + hammer method sounds complicated but it's really not. I'll try to explain it with MS paint.
Grey box is just,, engine block. The yellow jewish stars are where I made sure the jack handle contacted the open end of the wrench, and note the angle of red arrow hammering, just slightly off the straight line. Took me about 3-4 whacks and I was able to loosen it rest of the way with just the wrench.
This "diagram" is when you are viewing from the front of the car, assuming engine block is see-through. Do you get it? Or you could just,, get a low-profile ratchet (because engine mount replacement costs an arm and a leg if you pay someone to do it ).
About lift, if you do it the way I did at home, 1 man job, about 2 hours from removing strut bar and blah blah to complete reassembly, JUST FOR THE REAR, I would not want a lift.
First, there isn't enough space you can shove your arm up from under the car. And I'm skinny. People who removed it from under, they had to remove at least two exhaust components and/or subframe. Subframe messes with alignment. It's stupid having to get an alignment after replacing engine mounts.
Second, even just on jack stands about 12-14inches high (so that I could get under the bumper lip to mess with radiator fans) I had to get a chair to stand on, then put myself on the passenger side fender to reach the rear engine mount bolts. Feet dangling. Yes I'm short. So if I had a lift for engine mount replacement, I'd just keep moving it up and down while getting to radiator fan bolts and fan connectors. I remind myself of the Navy officer who turned the whole warship every 30 minutes so the he could get the sun out of his face. But yeah.
So how do you get the removed mount out / new mount into the place? Remove strut tower brace, and wiggle through the wires. If it's warm enough for you to stay outside for 5-6 hours (all 3 engine mount + upper transmission), wires would be flexible enough. I would be hesitant in recommending this but there are other people who have successfully done it this way without ever messing with it from under the car.
That's it about the technical stuff, now while the front of the engine lifts up the rear gets squished down. A former Acura tech (no longer because he works for Honda now...) told me the front mounts go out way more and faster than rears because engine always sits on the mount, then while front is repeating squish & stretch the rear one stays squished. I was actually going to sell my old rear mount on black market but my roommate threw it out
And being OCD I would do all 3 mounts at the same time so I could settle all of them in places where they are not tensioning up against one another. Settling the engine is not just my opinion it is standard procedure for replacing (an) engine mount(s). But if you did the front and side home, settle the engine, take it to the shop and get rear done, I'm gonna wanna undo all 3 mounts' bolts and re-settle the engine. That's where my OCD comes in. So I guess you could ask around and make the call for yourself. I don't think it would be a big issue since people replace just 1 or 2 mounts all the time and then just let the engine settle. But I don't dig it because when my side and rears were in and I was trying to re-settle front one, it moved. It definitely moved again and it may not be an issue since stock engine mounts are really soft and not crap quality rubber, just my pursuit of perfection.
I was just trying to tell you it's not that difficult if you are creative (even if you are not, I shared everything) but it ended up looking scary.
Awesome explanations. Thanks for the diagram, it was helpful.
It's about $380 in parts to do them all (motor and tranny mounts) which is not exactly cheap. I can see the point in doing them all in 1 shot in order to have them start even from square one all over again and all settled in right. But at this age of the car I'll probably just stick to doing just what's necessary.
Well I couldn't even get that top bolt off to really look. I used a thin extension with adapters and some penetrating oil. I used a lot of force and any heavier I would have definitely snapped my tools. I don't know if it is rusted in or has some Loctite on it. It looks like it would really require a thick extension and some gorilla force.
I am going to have my car worked on anyways so I'll let those guys handle it. I was going to break something for sure. But from what I could tell and feel externally, the mount seemed fine.
^ That is very strange. When my upper transmission mount was broken (as in, I felt improvement in NVH reduction when I replaced it. I did the tranny mount one day, and the 3 engine mounts another day.) the X shaped rubber arms were halfway cracked, each.
I can't tell from the picture since the metal piece is covering it, but I don't quite understand why that bolt would be such a stubborn one. Now if you mean you used thin 1/4" diameter extensions... (no offense) there's your problem. Minimum required would be 3/8" which is supposed to be good up to at least ~80lb-ft. I couldn't recall when I was answering your questions but looks like you would have to remove battery tray to get to the 3 bolts that are holding the mount to the frame rail. (aka annoying)
On a side note, I don't recall honda using loctite on any powerpack mounts. If you mean thick extensions like finger-thick, yes that is what you need. The thin pencil-thickness ones won't do.
Haha 1/4" that would be funny. Actually I was using 3/8". But it seemed more like a job for a 3/4" to be honest. That is the ONE thing that I lost in my arsenal of hand tools. I have a short extension (not long enough) but the super long one is missing. Just when you need it, you don't have it.
80lbs? Yea then something is wrong. I know 80lbs well, that is about how much we torque or wheel lugnuts. I was using more force than that! Airgun, yea that would do it! Wish I had one though.
So I guess what you are saying confirms that you just won't know until it's all apart. It seemed fine externally but the X rubber arms may be cracked indeed under that bolt. Totally makes sense.
Yea I saw how the bolts holding the bracket are under the ledge on the inner side. I have a CAI so that afforded easy access but it definitely would be easier with the battery out of the way. Definitely a knuckle banging process.
Well like I said, I'm having the car worked on anyways, let those guys get er done. Not to mention I HATE working on my car in the winter, I would have had no problem if this was summer. There's dirt everywhere and in the garage. Not to mention it's freakin freezing.
05-17-2010, 11:05 PM
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