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Sounds like they want to cover their ass when they destroy half of that stuff because they don't know how to do it lol.
Good info on bolts 94eg
Need to read through this later. I've had my replacement compliance bushings sitting in a box for 2 years now waiting to replace them.
07 type s and bushings have been cracking and tearing since around 30k ish miles.
WOW, what a great thread. I just snapped a few photos of mine and I think they are cracked by the 2 darker black cracks on each of the bushings (06 6MT w/ 89K miles all stock) and the vibration I have in the frond end in 1st and 2nd gear and the shimmy/vibration I have at hwy speeds. Not the tough decision whether I go with PCI or factory replacements...
are you guys replacing the other 2 bushings on the arm or only the compliance bushings? I have 190K on the TL now so I figure it might be worth the extra $65 to do the other bushings. Also I'm thinking of putting in new ball-joints just to be safe, or you guys think it's overkill?
Finished the other side! first shot no problems. now only the alignment.
We are only replacing the compliance with LCA still attached to ball joint.
If anyone interested can do a DIY with pictures.
Any trouble with that youtube method and getting the Axel bolt off? Also any tips besides holding the center portion of the spindle in while pulling away on the control arm? I don't want the joint to come out and end up in trouble!
I went the way if removing the 19mm, 2 17mms and the end link route. It just felt more comfortable since I've done it a few times before.
However, after installing the new bushing, you get less movement in the LCA and putting that fork bolt back in is pretty much a 2 man job, one pushes down on disk brakes while other alligns the fork and hammers the bolt in. (I install the fork 17mm last, going in this order: 19mm through bushing then far end 17mm then end link 14mm then fork 17mm). It is possible the axle bolt way is easier, need 26mm socket for it though.
Any trouble with that youtube method and getting the Axel bolt off? Also any tips besides holding the center portion of the spindle in while pulling away on the control arm? I don't want the joint to come out and end up in trouble!
IMO, there's no need for that. There's plenty of room to press the compliance bushings without going to that extra effort.
Originally Posted by accurancy
I went the way if removing the 19mm, 2 17mms and the end link route. It just felt more comfortable since I've done it a few times before.
However, after installing the new bushing, you get less movement in the LCA and putting that fork bolt back in is pretty much a 2 man job, one pushes down on disk brakes while other alligns the fork and hammers the bolt in. (I install the fork 17mm last, going in this order: 19mm through bushing then far end 17mm then end link 14mm then fork 17mm). It is possible the axle bolt way is easier, need 26mm socket for it though.
Dunno, I did both sides by myself with no issues. A quality pry bar and judicious use of a jack under the knuckle always helps
are you guys replacing the other 2 bushings on the arm or only the compliance bushings? I have 190K on the TL now so I figure it might be worth the extra $65 to do the other bushings. Also I'm thinking of putting in new ball-joints just to be safe, or you guys think it's overkill?
I'm replacing all three and swapping out all my motor mounts. This will hopefully stop all the clunking and bottoming out I experience over uneven roads/speedbumps
IMO, there's no need for that. There's plenty of room to press the compliance bushings without going to that extra effort.
Dunno, I did both sides by myself with no issues. A quality pry bar and judicious use of a jack under the knuckle always helps
In what order do you install the suspension bolts back? when do you use the jack? i connected everything with out the jack, only used it to load up the suspension in the end for torque tightening.
so I ended up replacing the compliance bushings on my TL today. With 190K on them they looked alright but still were very worn! I tried to make the tool to press the bushings in and out and ended up returning most of it. The 2-1/4 inch socket from Tractor Supply place worked perfectly.
I ended up having to hammer the new socket onto the old bushing to push it out, and then repeat with the new bushing. Also a brick and some wood was used to help out.
I removed the 4 bolts as suggested and it was easy to move the arm out of the way and not remove the ball joint. The difference is night and day with the new bushings in!
The grade 8 hardware was impossible to use with standard torque wrenches (didn't have a cheater bar or a second set of hands). It was like trying to turn a welded screw.
I too used a hammer to put new bushing in, just remember to press it out the other way next time as the bushing ring probably got squashed from hammering.
when using the tool it is critical to watch the 2 1/4 socket is aligned with the bushing ring. If it starts tilting it will squeeze the bushing ring against the LCA making it next to impossible for bushing to move. I grinded the 2 1/4 socket edge flat so it would not slip.
I guess don't need the tool at all with right hammer application
I too used a hammer to put new bushing in, just remember to press it out the other way next time as the bushing ring probably got squashed from hammering.
when using the tool it is critical to watch the 2 1/4 socket is aligned with the bushing ring. If it starts tilting it will squeeze the bushing ring against the LCA making it next to impossible for bushing to move. I grinded the 2 1/4 socket edge flat so it would not slip.
I guess don't need the tool at all with right hammer application
I lightly tapped the bushing in level into the lower control arm with a rubber mallet and then used the 2-1/4 socket to hammer it down.
That socket def. took a beating!
The bushing edges didn't get squashed, and as well I put them in the freezer to help ease installation. I didn't use any sort of grease either. The socket did move around like by 1-2mm but it fits over the bushing almost perfectly!
Make sure you mark the arrows and install the bushing the right way up! Almost messed up one side but I caught it quickly before the hammer came out!
I did my compliance bushings on Friday night using the Schley tool. The tool was simple to use. Once the tool was on the bushing, it was out in a couple minutes just using hand tools. Wasn't hard at all to pop those babies out! I sanded the LCA and greased it a bit. I also froze my new bushings before installing. The new bushings went in no problem at all.
Re-assembling everything, however, was tough since I was doing it by myself!
Also, I re-torqued everything under load by putting my wheels back on. This was a HUGE pain to reach around the tires to get everything. If I were to do this again, I would get ramps and do it under the car or just jack up the LCA with no wheels.
Anyways, it's done and hopefully won't have to be done again for a long time! Got an alignment. All my clunks aren't gone (thinking I need new end links) but my car handles WAY nicer now.
...Also, I re-torqued everything under load by putting my wheels back on. This was a HUGE pain to reach around the tires to get everything. If I were to do this again, I would get ramps and do it under the car or just jack up the LCA with no wheels....
Yeah, should've left the wheels off and just jacked the knuckle...oh well, you got 'er did
All my clunks aren't gone (thinking I need new end links) but my car handles WAY nicer now.
What kind of clunking do you experience? Mine clunks over speed bumps and uneven pavement, it feels as if the shock is completely stretched out and the front end rattles/vibrates.
I'm getting the compliance bushings, LCA bushings and all motor mounts replaced this week. Hopefully this fixes everything. I put on Koni Yellows and H&R sport springs last year and the clunking has been unbearable
What kind of clunking do you experience? Mine clunks over speed bumps and uneven pavement, it feels as if the shock is completely stretched out and the front end rattles/vibrates.
I'm getting the compliance bushings, LCA bushings and all motor mounts replaced this week. Hopefully this fixes everything. I put on Koni Yellows and H&R sport springs last year and the clunking has been unbearable
My clunking is on the driver's side and happens when the weight shifts, especially when going over a speed bump at an angle. When I'm going straight I don't usually get it. I can hear it, but it's not super loud. I can feel it inside the car.
I had a bunch of clunks and general loose feel/lack of control that started a few months ago. I replaced my upper transmission, front engine, and side engine mounts. This helped out quite a bit, especially with vibration and rattles! My car was nose diving a bit when braking and this fixed it. All of them were completely shot. I still need to do my rear engine mount. Lower transmission mount visually looks fine from what I can tell.
After doing my compliance bushings my steering feels much tighter and braking especially feels more solid. When removing my my end links for the compliance job, I noticed their boots are split. They still feel solid though... One question I have about end links is how do people properly torque them to 58 ft lbs since you have to have the hex wrench in? Do you need a crowfoot wrench attached to your torque wrench? I just tightened by hand since I wasn't sure.
Right now I'm thinking it's probably the end links. Maybe inner tie rod or even steering rack bushings. I also read on AZ that some people fixed a similar clunk by replacing/re-torquing their axle nuts. I'm skeptical that would fix my problem though, but I may try it since it's a cheap solution.
Got my car back yesterday after having the LCA bushings and compliance bushings replaced, motor mounts, and rack & pinion. Car feels amazing, and the best part is there is no more clunking. Cost nearly $2k ($1000 in oem parts and $1000 in labor)
Got my car back yesterday after having the LCA bushings and compliance bushings replaced, motor mounts, and rack & pinion. Car feels amazing, and the best part is there is no more clunking. Cost nearly $2k ($1000 in oem parts and $1000 in labor)
Glad you got it sorted out but wow at the $2K. I have "clunking" as well and hoping its just the LCA bushings. Did all of that work NEED to be done or were you just covering all bases? IOW would having done some or part of the work done resolved your issue or don't you know?
Glad you got it sorted out but wow at the $2K. I have "clunking" as well and hoping its just the LCA bushings. Did all of that work NEED to be done or were you just covering all bases? IOW would having done some or part of the work done resolved your issue or don't you know?
Rack and pinion is something unrelated to the clunking that I have needed to replace for a year, possibly a year and a half. It's been leaking over the boot, so I figured I'd get it done at the same time. That repair alone accounted for $800.
I could see my compliance bushings were torn, and it wasn't much more to get the other two bushings replaced. Car has 137k on it and motor mounts were shot. Huge repair bill, but in the last 5 years of ownership, all I've had to replace/fix were: 105k mile service, starter, APP sensor, and regular oil changes. Not too bad and the car is still running strong.
Can't hurt to pick up the phone and call or text him, right? Everyone who has had work done by him seems to be pretty damn happy and a good, honest, mechanic does't fall into your lap everyday.
Besides you said the "NJ area" and he definitely falls into that category
Got the compliance bushings replaced at Valley Stream Acura for about $500...
On the bright side, the car feels much nicer now (or very expensive placebo effect)
$500? The bushing is about $30 and labor should be no more than 2 hours for just the compliance bushings. Even at $100/hr, you shouldn't pay more than $300 with tax.
$500? The bushing is about $30 and labor should be no more than 2 hours for just the compliance bushings. Even at $100/hr, you shouldn't pay more than $300 with tax.
Bushings was about $97 from the dealer, and I think labor was 3-4 hours from them.
Bushings was about $97 from the dealer, and I think labor was 3-4 hours from them.
I'm sure you already know this, but you got robbed. I bought OEM compliance bushings from OEMAcuraparts.com for $29 and change. At most, the dealer should charge about 1 hour to remove each LCA and 0.2 hours, 12 minutes, to take out and replace each bushing. I got this info from another member on here that works at a dealership and has access to their service times. Next time, do a little more research and take it to a reputable mechanic that will do the job for half as much, unless you have money to burn.
I'm sure you already know this, but you got robbed. I bought OEM compliance bushings from OEMAcuraparts.com for $29 and change. At most, the dealer should charge about 1 hour to remove each LCA and 0.2 hours, 12 minutes, to take out and replace each bushing. I got this info from another member on here that works at a dealership and has access to their service times. Next time, do a little more research and take it to a reputable mechanic that will do the job for half as much, unless you have money to burn.
Yea, I figured, but can't undo what's done. Thanks for the advice man.
I'm sure you already know this, but you got robbed. I bought OEM compliance bushings from OEMAcuraparts.com for $29 and change. At most, the dealer should charge about 1 hour to remove each LCA and 0.2 hours, 12 minutes, to take out and replace each bushing. I got this info from another member on here that works at a dealership and has access to their service times. Next time, do a little more research and take it to a reputable mechanic that will do the job for half as much, unless you have money to burn.
Just a point of clarification - are the LCA bushings and compliance bushings the same thing? Is it just vocabulary/nomenclature or are there two sets of bushings??
There are 3 different bushings in the TL's front LCA. The "compliance" bushing is the big round one facing up/down. It's designed to allow some fore/aft movement in the lower suspension during braking and acceleration. This movement allows control over toe-change under various circumstances. It also allows tuning of the road feedback to the driver.
Just noticed mine as well, Had heard a clunk rattle noise on front end took in for oil change told service I need oil change and tire rotation. Asked can you also look for something lose in front end making the noise thought for sure a big list would come up specially making an UP sale when I Asked. Well got done came back found nothing. Well later that night don't know why but wanted to check to make sure they did not make a mess under car since the 3G TL has that cross member that FULL of oil when doing so. Well there was oil on the drive way and all over bottom of car and suspension component. Pissed off went to them in first place Could of gotten some brake cleaner and wiped off the surfaces at least. But my concern is that during tire rotation and oil change they id not see the right lower compliance bushing was bad. Its like right there next to oil filter and all. Then when I pop hood open there is oil spots all over my engine cover could not wipe this down either darn kids working in the bays.
Well bottom line is I need new bushings I ont want to go all out racing and get the solid spheres I have an I beam older ford which I did some front end work and its what I have on there and its not what I want in a daily driver. Should I go with stock or do some POLY ones. Also should I might as well do all 3 each side. Only 56K TL S.
04-20-2015, 02:31 AM
