'04 to '08 front lower control arm bushing failure - please read and look
11-12-2014, 10:06 PM
#1121
Could someone please provide the OEM part number for the bushing? I am having really hard time find the part number for the bushing. Do not want to call the stealership as I pissed with those money eaters.
11-13-2014, 12:21 AM
#1122
No, I m talking about the HeelToe bearings. They are all bearings (compliance and rear - smaller one). I thought it was a bushing. The only bushing that's OEM on the arms now are the suspension forks'.
11-13-2014, 12:23 AM
#1124
009 51393-SEP-A01 BUSH, FR. ARM (LOWER) 002 2006 TL 30.35 22.76 Qty:
010 51394-SEP-A01 BUSH ASSY., FR. COMPLIANCE 002 2006 TL 38.47 28.85 Qty:
011 51810-SDA-A01 BUSH, FR. SHOCK ABSORBER 002 2006 TL 21.18 15.89 Qty:
010 51394-SEP-A01 BUSH ASSY., FR. COMPLIANCE 002 2006 TL 38.47 28.85 Qty:
011 51810-SDA-A01 BUSH, FR. SHOCK ABSORBER 002 2006 TL 21.18 15.89 Qty:
11-13-2014, 12:25 AM
#1125
11-13-2014, 09:55 AM
#1127
11-16-2014, 10:24 PM
#1128
10th Gear
Join Date: Mar 2012
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It's cool dude. Wouldn't be on the forum if you already knew everything.
Not sure about the upper arm bushings frequently failing. You would probably deal with the upper arm bushings when your upper ball joint is bad. Take a look at some pics of how double-wishbone suspension works and you'll figure out how to test it.
Lower arm bushings. I noticed that there were very subtle and random "pulls" at highway speed when my bushings were bad. You lose that tight "riding on rails" feeling (coined by elegant-s).
Ask your service adviser what is bad? "Is it the bushings or upper ball joint?" If he says "upper control arm bushings." I would get a second opinion.
Good luck man.
Not sure about the upper arm bushings frequently failing. You would probably deal with the upper arm bushings when your upper ball joint is bad. Take a look at some pics of how double-wishbone suspension works and you'll figure out how to test it.
Lower arm bushings. I noticed that there were very subtle and random "pulls" at highway speed when my bushings were bad. You lose that tight "riding on rails" feeling (coined by elegant-s).
Ask your service adviser what is bad? "Is it the bushings or upper ball joint?" If he says "upper control arm bushings." I would get a second opinion.
Good luck man.
The mechanic said the upper control arms and ball joints were showing some play.
I think there is definitely something up with the front left wheel area. I hear a popping type noise when I brake or straighten out after a turn. I also feel a random shake of the car when on the highway that seems to go away when I take my foot off the gas pedal.
Would any of this confirm that it is in fact the control arm and ball joints?
If so, is it required to replace both front control arms and ball joints?
11-16-2014, 10:43 PM
#1129
I also feel a random shake of the car when on the highway that seems to go away when I take my foot off the gas pedal.
Try down shifting with foot still on gas pedal and see if it goes away. If yes, not suspension related. If no, could be ball joints/bushings (from the torque).
Would any of this confirm that it is in fact the control arm and ball joints?
Check yourself. Jack car up and see what kind of play is there (12-6 and 9-3 o'clock). Take tires off and visually inspect ball joints.
Try down shifting with foot still on gas pedal and see if it goes away. If yes, not suspension related. If no, could be ball joints/bushings (from the torque).
Would any of this confirm that it is in fact the control arm and ball joints?
Check yourself. Jack car up and see what kind of play is there (12-6 and 9-3 o'clock). Take tires off and visually inspect ball joints.
Thanks for the response.
The mechanic said the upper control arms and ball joints were showing some play.
I think there is definitely something up with the front left wheel area. I hear a popping type noise when I brake or straighten out after a turn. I also feel a random shake of the car when on the highway that seems to go away when I take my foot off the gas pedal.
Would any of this confirm that it is in fact the control arm and ball joints?
If so, is it required to replace both front control arms and ball joints?
The mechanic said the upper control arms and ball joints were showing some play.
I think there is definitely something up with the front left wheel area. I hear a popping type noise when I brake or straighten out after a turn. I also feel a random shake of the car when on the highway that seems to go away when I take my foot off the gas pedal.
Would any of this confirm that it is in fact the control arm and ball joints?
If so, is it required to replace both front control arms and ball joints?
11-27-2014, 08:08 AM
#1130
Racer
How much should I expect to be charged in labor alone to replace the LCA bushings and compliance bushings? I just received a quote for $780 in labor alone to swap them all out which is f-in ridiculous. I may as well just replace the entire LCA if I am paying that much
11-27-2014, 08:43 AM
#1131
Asiaworks(Hondaworks) in Charlotte NC charged $270 last year for removal/installation of lower arm + replacement of any of 3 bushings. Labor only
11-27-2014, 10:14 AM
#1132
Racer
$270 isn't bad. Was that for just 1 side or both?
11-27-2014, 12:18 PM
#1133
$270 o_O
That's a lot of money. If you take the arms off and bring them to a shop, they should charge you about $10 for each bushing.
If you get the Schley 68100 for ~$130 you can replace them wihtout even completely removing the arms. Of course you need to be careful not to pull the axle apart, and you still most likely need an alignment afterwards.
That's a lot of money. If you take the arms off and bring them to a shop, they should charge you about $10 for each bushing.
If you get the Schley 68100 for ~$130 you can replace them wihtout even completely removing the arms. Of course you need to be careful not to pull the axle apart, and you still most likely need an alignment afterwards.
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EagleEye (12-05-2014)
11-27-2014, 12:27 PM
#1134
Racer
$270 o_O
That's a lot of money. If you take the arms off and bring them to a shop, they should charge you about $10 for each bushing.
If you get the Schley 68100 for ~$130 you can replace them wihtout even completely removing the arms. Of course you need to be careful not to pull the axle apart, and you still most likely need an alignment afterwards.
That's a lot of money. If you take the arms off and bring them to a shop, they should charge you about $10 for each bushing.
If you get the Schley 68100 for ~$130 you can replace them wihtout even completely removing the arms. Of course you need to be careful not to pull the axle apart, and you still most likely need an alignment afterwards.
11-27-2014, 08:13 PM
#1135
If you are going to completely remove your lower control arm yourself and bring both lower control arms to a shop to have them press out the old bushings and press in the new bushings than it's going to cost you a lot less because you did mostly all of the "labor" work already (removing the LCA from the car).
Now if you do that than the shop will charge you very little just to press out the bushings and press new ones in.
The price will vary per shop. 94eg! says they "SHOULD" charge your $10 per bushing. That doesn't mean ALL SHOPS WILL charge that much.. Might be more, might be less. Depends on the shop.
Now if you take your car to a shop and supply the bushings and ask them to replace the bushings than expect to pay a lot more because the shop has to go through the labor of removing both LCAs.
Now if you do that than the shop will charge you very little just to press out the bushings and press new ones in.
The price will vary per shop. 94eg! says they "SHOULD" charge your $10 per bushing. That doesn't mean ALL SHOPS WILL charge that much.. Might be more, might be less. Depends on the shop.
Now if you take your car to a shop and supply the bushings and ask them to replace the bushings than expect to pay a lot more because the shop has to go through the labor of removing both LCAs.
The following users liked this post:
glennjr15 (01-06-2017)
11-30-2014, 12:17 AM
#1138
Just found out my passenger side control arm is completely done. Surprisingly, driver side is OK! Will probably use an aftermarket part for the passenger side considering the reliability of OEM. Any warnings as to not have 1 side aftermarket and 1 side OEM?
12-05-2014, 12:19 PM
#1139
12-06-2014, 03:11 AM
#1140
My Passenger Side bushing is fucked
(see: https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...m-fail-922474/)
I think I'm going to try and to it my self
I'm in Canada so the parts for the home made tool are hard to find
I'm going to get them from Amazon US
and try and get the bolts locally (If anybody knows if I can get them shipped form the US from somewhere let me know; or if somebody is willing to ship them to me
My Part List:
---Window Weld
---Powerbuilt 643220 3/4-Inch Drive 12 Point 2-1/8-Inch Socket
---OTC (1908) Locknut Socket - 6 point, 3-1/4" Opening Size
---(2X) 009 51393-SEP-A01 BUSH, FR. ARM (LOWER)
---(2X) 010 51394-SEP-A01 BUSH ASSY., FR. COMPLIANCE
---(2X) 011 51810-SDA-A01 BUSH, FR. SHOCK ABSORBER
One thing I dont see any info about is how to replace the other 2 bushings?
Do they just slide out?
(see: https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...m-fail-922474/)
I think I'm going to try and to it my self
I'm in Canada so the parts for the home made tool are hard to find
I'm going to get them from Amazon US
and try and get the bolts locally (If anybody knows if I can get them shipped form the US from somewhere let me know; or if somebody is willing to ship them to me
My Part List:
---Window Weld
---Powerbuilt 643220 3/4-Inch Drive 12 Point 2-1/8-Inch Socket
---OTC (1908) Locknut Socket - 6 point, 3-1/4" Opening Size
---(2X) 009 51393-SEP-A01 BUSH, FR. ARM (LOWER)
---(2X) 010 51394-SEP-A01 BUSH ASSY., FR. COMPLIANCE
---(2X) 011 51810-SDA-A01 BUSH, FR. SHOCK ABSORBER
One thing I dont see any info about is how to replace the other 2 bushings?
Do they just slide out?
Last edited by JustinZ; 12-06-2014 at 03:16 AM.
12-14-2014, 09:21 PM
#1141
Lol, thanks. There is a golf course right next to us. People like to launch balls into the dealer. Luckily non of my cars have gotten hit yet but some have and even blown out a few windows.
Anyway did mine today. Mine didn't seem like they were that torn but I can honestly say the ride quality has improved. Mainly how the front took certain bumps in the road. Now for a cour pictures.
[IM=G]http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/y309/supraru/7BCEDA7B-D094-42D5-99B0-A5D4FE16B279-154-00000008316164DF_zps51f8878e.jpg[/IMG]
[IM=G]http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/y309/supraru/B7E55CE4-572E-4535-B526-54CB56290490-154-0000000834261769_zps91288a76.jpg[/IMG]
[IM=G]http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/y309/supraru/1898C79E-DE67-4843-8677-841B3D073EED-154-0000000836F076A7_zps4040971b.jpg[/IMG]
As for the kit it did a great job. By what was labeled all over the kit it said not to use an impact....well I don't listen. It seemed to take at least the first set. We'll see how it lasts. I only removed the 19mm through the bushing, the 17 mm bolt, and the 14 mm on the swaybar endlinks so I could slide it out just enough to get the tool on.
Anyway did mine today. Mine didn't seem like they were that torn but I can honestly say the ride quality has improved. Mainly how the front took certain bumps in the road. Now for a cour pictures.
[IM=G]http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/y309/supraru/7BCEDA7B-D094-42D5-99B0-A5D4FE16B279-154-00000008316164DF_zps51f8878e.jpg[/IMG]
[IM=G]http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/y309/supraru/B7E55CE4-572E-4535-B526-54CB56290490-154-0000000834261769_zps91288a76.jpg[/IMG]
[IM=G]http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/y309/supraru/1898C79E-DE67-4843-8677-841B3D073EED-154-0000000836F076A7_zps4040971b.jpg[/IMG]
As for the kit it did a great job. By what was labeled all over the kit it said not to use an impact....well I don't listen. It seemed to take at least the first set. We'll see how it lasts. I only removed the 19mm through the bushing, the 17 mm bolt, and the 14 mm on the swaybar endlinks so I could slide it out just enough to get the tool on.
- 19mm front bushing
- 17mm rear bushing
- 14mm sway bar
You only listed 1x 17mm bolt -- Did you skip the 17mm bolt that goes through the suspension fork?
Or did you skip the 17mm rear bushing?
I tried to do this today but that bolt that goes through the suspension fork wont budge (after PB Blaster).. I dont know what to do
12-14-2014, 09:55 PM
#1142
Race Director
12-14-2014, 10:44 PM
#1143
I was able to get the nut off,
but the bolt itself wont move at all
I've been tapping the threaded side to help with PB blaster absorption
..should i just start to hit it really hard?
Looking at the bolt, is it even supposed to turn? It looks like it has lengthwise grooves?
12-14-2014, 10:53 PM
#1144
Race Director
Yeah, it'll still turn, but I never did, just tapped it out from the nut end after the nut was off. You might try jacking the knuckle a little to see if that will relieve any pressure. You're not going to hurt it if you are using a flat punch, but it really shouldn't take massive hammering to tap it out.
Edit: I've never paid attention, but is there enough room to put the nut back on and hitting the nut?
Edit: I've never paid attention, but is there enough room to put the nut back on and hitting the nut?
Last edited by nfnsquared; 12-14-2014 at 10:56 PM.
The following users liked this post:
JustinZ (12-14-2014)
12-14-2014, 11:08 PM
#1145
Yeah, it'll still turn, but I never did, just tapped it out from the nut end after the nut was off. You might try jacking the knuckle a little to see if that will relieve any pressure. You're not going to hurt it if you are using a flat punch, but it really shouldn't take massive hammering to tap it out.
Edit: I've never paid attention, but is there enough room to put the nut back on and hitting the nut?
Edit: I've never paid attention, but is there enough room to put the nut back on and hitting the nut?
Ill try that while jacking up the knuckle
12-15-2014, 11:30 AM
#1146
Banned
That bolt rusts in the bushing sleve
I usually cut the bolt off on both sides with a recipricating saw by the bushing and replace that bushing and the bolt.pain in the butt
I usually cut the bolt off on both sides with a recipricating saw by the bushing and replace that bushing and the bolt.pain in the butt
12-15-2014, 11:39 AM
#1147
Mine was rusted too first time I took front suspension apart.
I understand SC cars rarely have any serious rust but I could get the nut off. Then used a small sledge to hit the bolt flush with the fork. Then took a 3/8 extension to sledge it out the rest of the way.. Was fun.
Try getting the nut off if your bolt is stuck tightly.
Also. It's not about jacking up the knuckle. You'd have to jack up the fork and knuckle together and evenly to relieve tension on the fork bottom bolt.
Or you could just jack up the fork in varying degrees and find a sweet spot eventually where the bolt is free enough to be hand-pulled/pushed.
Last edited by 4drviper; 12-15-2014 at 11:41 AM.
12-15-2014, 11:54 AM
#1148
Race Director
12-15-2014, 12:32 PM
#1149
^ Maybe. My car had 5 years of previous owner driving, mostly local but don't know where else he took the car...
My rear toe bolt was stuck too I had to pry it out with a ball joint fork with jack handle slid over the shaft for extra leverage. Took 1 hour each. Already pre-sprayed with PB (7 days) then I had to spray, tugtugtug, spray tugtugtug, and it made the horrible chalkboard screeching sound every time it moved 1/1000 of an inch.
The toe hole (lol?!) and front shock absorber bushing sleeve (in the LCA) are caked with anti seize now. I made sure not to get any on the threads.
My rear toe bolt was stuck too I had to pry it out with a ball joint fork with jack handle slid over the shaft for extra leverage. Took 1 hour each. Already pre-sprayed with PB (7 days) then I had to spray, tugtugtug, spray tugtugtug, and it made the horrible chalkboard screeching sound every time it moved 1/1000 of an inch.
The toe hole (lol?!) and front shock absorber bushing sleeve (in the LCA) are caked with anti seize now. I made sure not to get any on the threads.
12-16-2014, 12:41 AM
#1150
I'm not comfortable with cutting anything -- if it comes to that Id probably pay somebody to do it instead.
So I tried jacking it up and banging it out -- still didnt work, it wont rotate or move a bit...
I'm going to try 1 last thing before i give up and take it to a shop
What im trying now is to REALLY soak it in PB...
I bought 3 cans of PB and I taped a plastic bag around the bolt / bushing and FILLED it with PB blaster so its actually sitting in a pool of it, refilling the bag every hour once it leaks out
So I tried jacking it up and banging it out -- still didnt work, it wont rotate or move a bit...
I'm going to try 1 last thing before i give up and take it to a shop
What im trying now is to REALLY soak it in PB...
I bought 3 cans of PB and I taped a plastic bag around the bolt / bushing and FILLED it with PB blaster so its actually sitting in a pool of it, refilling the bag every hour once it leaks out
Last edited by JustinZ; 12-16-2014 at 12:44 AM.
12-23-2014, 10:31 PM
#1151
Three Wheelin'
I'm not comfortable with cutting anything -- if it comes to that Id probably pay somebody to do it instead.
So I tried jacking it up and banging it out -- still didnt work, it wont rotate or move a bit...
I'm going to try 1 last thing before i give up and take it to a shop
What im trying now is to REALLY soak it in PB...
I bought 3 cans of PB and I taped a plastic bag around the bolt / bushing and FILLED it with PB blaster so its actually sitting in a pool of it, refilling the bag every hour once it leaks out
So I tried jacking it up and banging it out -- still didnt work, it wont rotate or move a bit...
I'm going to try 1 last thing before i give up and take it to a shop
What im trying now is to REALLY soak it in PB...
I bought 3 cans of PB and I taped a plastic bag around the bolt / bushing and FILLED it with PB blaster so its actually sitting in a pool of it, refilling the bag every hour once it leaks out
01-01-2015, 04:00 PM
#1152
PCI Spherical Bearings
Hey y'all. First time poster, long time reader...
I have a 2004 Acura TL and am changing out the compliance bushings for the PCI spherical bearings. The question I have is - The instructions mention to have the 'PCI logo facing the front of the vehicle'. 'Facing' is a bit of a confusing term to use in this instance for something that actually faces straight up, instead of front and back. (There isn't an arrow.) My take on the way this is meant is that the logo goes on the side closest to the front of the vehicle, and when pressed in it should be facing up. I can't seem to find clarity from any threads about this. Will someone please confirm that I am correct in my assumptions? I know this may not be confusing to some, but I only want to install these once, and I sure don't want to install them completely backwards.
Thank you,
Dave
I have a 2004 Acura TL and am changing out the compliance bushings for the PCI spherical bearings. The question I have is - The instructions mention to have the 'PCI logo facing the front of the vehicle'. 'Facing' is a bit of a confusing term to use in this instance for something that actually faces straight up, instead of front and back. (There isn't an arrow.) My take on the way this is meant is that the logo goes on the side closest to the front of the vehicle, and when pressed in it should be facing up. I can't seem to find clarity from any threads about this. Will someone please confirm that I am correct in my assumptions? I know this may not be confusing to some, but I only want to install these once, and I sure don't want to install them completely backwards.
Thank you,
Dave
01-01-2015, 04:18 PM
#1153
I gave up and paid a shop to swap them out ($260) + 100 for alignment
I asked the tech if he had any trouble and he said it went smoothly; I think he used an air hammer
01-01-2015, 04:28 PM
#1154
Race Director
Hey y'all. First time poster, long time reader...
I have a 2004 Acura TL and am changing out the compliance bushings for the PCI spherical bearings. The question I have is - The instructions mention to have the 'PCI logo facing the front of the vehicle'. 'Facing' is a bit of a confusing term to use in this instance for something that actually faces straight up, instead of front and back. (There isn't an arrow.) My take on the way this is meant is that the logo goes on the side closest to the front of the vehicle, and when pressed in it should be facing up. I can't seem to find clarity from any threads about this. Will someone please confirm that I am correct in my assumptions? I know this may not be confusing to some, but I only want to install these once, and I sure don't want to install them completely backwards.
Thank you,
Dave
I have a 2004 Acura TL and am changing out the compliance bushings for the PCI spherical bearings. The question I have is - The instructions mention to have the 'PCI logo facing the front of the vehicle'. 'Facing' is a bit of a confusing term to use in this instance for something that actually faces straight up, instead of front and back. (There isn't an arrow.) My take on the way this is meant is that the logo goes on the side closest to the front of the vehicle, and when pressed in it should be facing up. I can't seem to find clarity from any threads about this. Will someone please confirm that I am correct in my assumptions? I know this may not be confusing to some, but I only want to install these once, and I sure don't want to install them completely backwards.
Thank you,
Dave
Logo is up and toward the front of the car...
Give us a good review after you put a few miles on these
01-02-2015, 12:48 AM
#1156
Now I have a question.
What would be bad about making the logo face up and outward (respective sides) so that it's easier for a snap ring plier to get to the bearing when it needs replacement?
I'm assuming the whole assembly is round, and bearing is centered.
What would be bad about making the logo face up and outward (respective sides) so that it's easier for a snap ring plier to get to the bearing when it needs replacement?
I'm assuming the whole assembly is round, and bearing is centered.
01-02-2015, 02:44 PM
#1157
01-02-2015, 03:03 PM
#1158
My local Honda dealer broke it down for me like this.
- $85 for oem acura parts
- $240 for labor
- $59 for alignment
Total is probably $400 out the door with tax. My biggest issue is wanting something better than the OE parts, as I feel these should have lasted longer (I have an '07 with 80K on the clock). Without reading the entire thread, what is the longevity on the PCI parts if I choose to go that way instead?
Thanks!
- $85 for oem acura parts
- $240 for labor
- $59 for alignment
Total is probably $400 out the door with tax. My biggest issue is wanting something better than the OE parts, as I feel these should have lasted longer (I have an '07 with 80K on the clock). Without reading the entire thread, what is the longevity on the PCI parts if I choose to go that way instead?
Thanks!
Last edited by VisualEchos; 01-02-2015 at 03:09 PM.
01-02-2015, 04:19 PM
#1159
It's hard to tell lifespan of spherical bearing because it's not rubber.
Rubber will absorb (or get squished and bounce back) when you hit a pothole (just an example). Spherical bearing will be permanently damaged when exposed to impacts above certain threshold(plastic deformation). Every material/alloy has its own limit where it cannot return back to original shape after force is applied. (aside from Young's modulus)
The only report I remember seeing is a Canadian member here who had about 10-20k miles. It looked fine. But then again any chinese replacement, when driven gently, can last that long. So don't take it as "Oh it will last 15k competing rally championships".
But PCI makes bearings for many many cars (aftermarket) so I don't doubt their quality, it's just that my compliance bushing's 1/5way torn and it's holding
One thing is, I want to see the price and availability (readily) of replacement bearing cores so I can have 2-3 pairs in stock at home so whenever they are damaged I can just pop couple bolts and replace the bearing with a snap ring plier, no need to press the bushing frame out/in like the first time.
I remember Marcus telling me the replacement bearing is really cheap compared to the whole new bearing set, but no hard numbers.
Rubber will absorb (or get squished and bounce back) when you hit a pothole (just an example). Spherical bearing will be permanently damaged when exposed to impacts above certain threshold(plastic deformation). Every material/alloy has its own limit where it cannot return back to original shape after force is applied. (aside from Young's modulus)
The only report I remember seeing is a Canadian member here who had about 10-20k miles. It looked fine. But then again any chinese replacement, when driven gently, can last that long. So don't take it as "Oh it will last 15k competing rally championships".
But PCI makes bearings for many many cars (aftermarket) so I don't doubt their quality, it's just that my compliance bushing's 1/5way torn and it's holding
One thing is, I want to see the price and availability (readily) of replacement bearing cores so I can have 2-3 pairs in stock at home so whenever they are damaged I can just pop couple bolts and replace the bearing with a snap ring plier, no need to press the bushing frame out/in like the first time.
I remember Marcus telling me the replacement bearing is really cheap compared to the whole new bearing set, but no hard numbers.
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VisualEchos (01-02-2015)