Oil leak..Rear main seal or Oil pan?
 

I an really starting to get sick of this car.. I think its time to go!!
My dad calls me and tells me there is a puddle of oil in the driveway, so I take a look and yep its leaking oil.. It looked it was all over the transmission bottom but it was OIL.. I took it to the trans shop and he said its the rear main seal or oil pan, but is betting its the rear main seal..
has anyone had a problem with the rear main seal or oil pan??

The rear seal leaking oil seems to be a common occurence, I had it and so did others. Unfortunately, they have to drop the tranny to replace it. Have you had your tranny replaced recently?

top off your oil.
spray some engine cleaner under there,hose it off,dry it good and watch for the leak.
You should know in a matter of minutes if it's the rear main or pan gasket but,it's most likely the rear main.

Yes I did , I had the tranny replaced like 4 months ago.. I brought it back to the shop and he is the one that told me it was the rear main seal, He said he checked it when he did the tranny and it was fine.. He said it would cost about $800 to replace the rear main seal... SO he prob messed it up and now is gonna make anouther $800 off me to replace the rear main seal!!

Can i keep driving with a slow leak , just fill up with oild every couple of days?
is there anything I can pour in there to stop or slow the leak, or is that a no no?

You can try a stopleak addative...put it into your oil. I have a sentra with a leak. Helped a bit but it's not a problem solver that's for sure.

how did he look at it and it was fine? u cant really tell by looking unless its torn or damaged, which cant happen unless he messed up when he was putting in the trans.

my tl had a rear main seal leak for over a year.
before i put in the trans in my tl i replaced the rear main seal. 5min job but a lot of time and work taking the trans out.

ALWAYS replace the rear mail seal when the trans comes out on all cars.

and u can take off the cover plate between the engine and trans and see if the leak is coming from their.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/36971594@N05/4056555391/
Here is a pic with the plate off!

I posted a pic with that plate off, it does seem to be comming from there!

dont see any pics.

yeah pic won't load.

What fuzzy said - whenever you get your tranny replaced the seal should be replaced, its like $15 extra. Was your tranny covered under warranty or did you do it out of pocket?

Honestly the shop should give some discount since the trans is so new.

The tranny guy said they checked the seal and it was good.
 

He says its not part of the warrenty..
I am starting to hate this car, 3000K for a tranny a few months ago and now this.
I put it for sale for $4000 , I just want to make back what I just spent on the trans!
I am going to lease a 2010 TSX base for 350 a month with $2500 total out of pocket. That price includes EVERYTHING..
I am sick of pumping money into this POS!

i cant get my flicker pics to pop up!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/36971594@N05/4056555391/

Its not a pos. The tranny problem is a given. Ur mechanic should have know to change out the seal. Y do u think dealers charge so much? They know what their doing. My cl is leaking from their too, no problem a few drips a day won't hurt anything but the clutch, which I need a new one anyway.

I wouldn't have put $3K into into a car with over 150K miles to start with. I think we suggested you dump it when that happened.

That shop sounds like a crook to me.

I strongly disagree with that. Dealers want to make $. They would have done the same thing in most cases. Unless the customer brought it up beforehand.
Especially for an out of warranty car.

Sounds a bit like the issue I had with DMD Acura Plano. They claimed it's part of the process to check and replace the oil seal if there's a problem. In my case I had a few major beefs with their service.

1) after learning rear main is a common problem area and is labor intensive, DMD Acura Plano should have recommended replacing it as my car was 7yrs old at the time. I would have had it done. :mad:

2) it started leaking the next day - DMD Acura Plano says it's just a coincidence that it did - I checked around to see if there's something that they could have screwed up and could not get enough support to challenge it. :mad:

3) they left the radiator cap off and it started overheating on the way home. They claim the guy that did the work was their best man . . :rolleyes: when I made it back they couldn't find my 'Mugen' cap and replaced it with a OEM cap.:pissed:

I leave and make it less than 2 miles and it's overheating again. I take it back and it turns out the guy just topped off the radiator, but didn't bleed the system. Good thing the Service Director happened to see me working on my car in their service area and jumped over them for not doing it right.

Since the tranny was #3 and being replaced on their dime, the only satisfaction I got was they'd cover me if any problems arrose or if I had tranny problems within the next 12mo 12k miles and that was okay seeing that I was going to be outside of the extended warranty within 4 months.

Anyway, my :2cents: is that anyone with a car that is 4 or more years old, get a quote on replacing the rear main when having the tranny replaced. They should'nt need to charge the R&R for the rear main since the tranny is already out.

4) there were a couple of other issues dealing with cooling mods being bad and on how the replacement tranny functioned with the new ECM and that just added to my dissatisfaction . . . even let them know in the survey. And you know how they like to follow up with you to make sure everything was done right. Well I let them know it was an all around bad deal . . . and they never would return my calls after that.

Sad, DMD Acura Plano had been my recommendation to our area group and friends, but this deal had more than one awe :turd: that I can't trust them anymore. So yes, they have a sucks rating of 9.9 with me. :whyme:

Ruf

Yeah I did not know the rear main seal was a common problem and when I was posting about me getting a new trans no one mentioned anything about the rear main seal, if someone did I would have told him to replace it.. BUT he should have known better and just replaced it while the trans was out, I paid him over 3 K to do the trans, he should have said something..
I am really sick of the car its been almost 10 years and I put prob about $50K into the car,(I bought it new so with interest) it was $36K then all the work and stufftires/rims/brakes /tranny it was like $50K..
That 5K a year to drive this car.. TSX lease $350 a month so thats $4100 a year to drive a new car that always under warrenty...

So if anyone knows anyone who needs a CL nices moddded $4000 takes it!

Pluse I just started working at Infiniti and started making some real money so I can afford a new car now, I dont want to have to worry about puttinig oil it the car every few days.. I Drives GREAT dont get me wrong but with the trans and everything else my head hurts from this car all-ready!

My thoughts exactly. That's why with ...

1) Timing Belt
2) Timing Belt Tensioner
3) Water Pump
4) Belts
5) Rear Seal (2nd time)
6) recommended clutch (while they were and since clutch was OEM)
7) Front Ball Joints (2nd time)
8) Any/everthing involved with a major tune

coming up at my next service interval (which was coming up in under 4K miles at the 225,000 mile service), I realized there was no possible way to re-coup any of that money if I were to want to go into something new (which I was thinking of doing anyway), so I just went into something new and different within the Acura family.

U mind me asking how much u sold your car for $$ o

Not interested in any of the Infiniti line as a replacement?

u dont have to keep putting oil in. my seal is leaking and for the past 3.5k miles i didnt have to add oil. i put in 5qrts and maybe im down 1/4 of a quart at best.

Its funny, when I had my transmission replaced I specifically asked my dealer to replace rear main seal, and surprisingly when they could have made easy buck, they were like "we won't replace it if there is no need", morons...

First off, I am sorry. this sucks.

Second 800.00 is a total ripoff, I had mine done for 350.00 (I brought the seal) which was I think 4.50.

Finally, Id tell the guy he just got over 3k, should have at least suggested it as a PM seeing as the part is almost free and labor is nothing while it is out. I'd be firm but not unpleasant unless he continued to be an ass, then I'd get a lawyer to write a letter.

Word of mouth is the best thing (and worst) small local shops have, he does not want trash talk.

Good luck.

To this I'd have said if you don't replace it I want it in writing that you were asked to replace it and if it leaks in the next year will replace it for the cost of the seal.

I wish, I cant afford one right now, I just bought my first condo and really love the look of the 2011 M , so I want to get into a short lease till then and the lease on the TSX is pretty tempting..
I might take over my friends 2009 Maxima lease also for $375 a month for 20 months with 25K miles left..
I will call the shop monday to see what he says about replacing the seal and how much $$ he wants to charge, BUT I REALLY dont feel like pumping any more money into this money pit!

if u lived by me id help u do the job. its easy, but time consuming. everyone thinks that dropping the trans is a big job. its not few bolts, lots of sensors to disconnect and time.

StonedCL i have good mechanic in your area shot me pm and ill give you his number he wont rip you off on price

our blocks are also a bit porous (spelling? [not dense enough]) in certain areas so here is a tsb about it:2cents:

especially look at illustration 2 for your case/leak (near bottom of post)



01-041
February 20, 2004
http://alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V1...9114/105738818
Applies To
V6 Engine Oil Leaks
(Supersedes 01-041, dated October 29, 2001)

Updated information is shown with asterisks and black bars.
SYMPTOM
An oil leak from the front, middle, or rear of the engine.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The cast aluminum engine block may be porous in spots.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Depending on the location of the leak, seal it with JB Weld or with 3-Bond-coated sealing bolts.
http://alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V1...9114/105738819
TOOL INFORMATION
* NOTE: For some problems, the VTEC System Test Tool can be used to pressure-check the engine block for oil leaks. A similar tool was first used in 1991 to check the rocker arms on NSX engines (see service bulletin 91-017, NSX Special Tools, page 1).

http://alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V1...9114/105738842
If your shop doesn't have a VTEC System Test Tool, order it from your parts center. The tool consists of a gauge with regulator, a hose, and a coupler.
If your shop doesn't have an adapter hose, order it from the Acura Tool and Equipment Program at 888-424-6857.*
http://alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V1...9114/105738843
REQUIRED MATERIALS
http://alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V1...9114/105738845
PARTS INFORMATION
REPAIR PROCEDURE
Most engine oil leaks can be seen when you disassemble the suspected area. But if you want to pinpoint the exact location of the leak, use a powdered leak detector (best for suspected bolt hole leaks) or do a pressure-test with the VTEC System Test Tool (best for suspected block porosity).
Leak Testing With a Powdered Leak Detector (Best for suspected bolt hole leaks)
1.Clean off residual oil and grease from the engine with engine degreaser.
2.Disassemble the engine enough to expose the area of the leak.
3.Spray powdered leak detector on the area.
4.Reassemble the engine, start it, and run it for about 5 minutes.
5.Shut off the engine, and inspect the leak area. Once you find the leak, go to Confirming, and use the chart to determine whether to follow Repair Procedure A or Repair Procedure B.

Leak Testing With the VTEC System Test Tool (Best for suspected block porosity)
http://alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V1...9114/105738846
1.Disconnect the breather hose connecting the front head cover to the air inlet tube.
2.Remove the oil pressure switch from the oil pump.
3.Screw the adapter of the VTEC tool into the oil pressure switch hole.
4.Connect the VTEC tool to shop air regulated to no more than 40 psi.

http://alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V1...9114/105738907
5.Brush soapy water on the suspected porous area (best for vertical surfaces), or fill the area with soapy water (best for a suspected leak in the engine valley).
^If the area bubbles, you've found the leak. Go to Confirming the Leak, and use the chart to determine whether to follow Repair Procedure A or Repair Procedure B.
NOTE: To fill an engine valley section with soapy water, plug the drain hole in the valley with a piece of tubing (P/N 36285-P8A-A00) around a 6 x 15 mm bolt.
6.After you pressure-test the block and make the needed repairs, pull fuse No. 11 (15 A) from the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box (to disable the ignition system), then crank the engine for 10 to 15 seconds; this ensures that the engine bearings are lubricated before you start the engine. After you crank the engine, reinstall the fuse.
7.If you can't find the leak with this method, use the powdered leak detector.

Repair Procedure A
1.Remove and discard the original bolt(s).
2.Install the appropriate coated bolt(s) (see PARTS INFORMATION), and torque them as indicated:
^Timing Belt Adjuster Pulley Bolt: 44 Nm (33 lb-ft)
^Engine Side Mount Bracket Bolt: 44 Nm (33 lb-ft)
^Transmission Mounting Bolts: 64 Nm (47 lb-ft)
3.Reassemble the engine, start it, and let it run for 20 minutes. Then shut it off, and confirm that the leak is gone.

Repair Procedure B
1.Thoroughly clean the area to be patched with brake cleaner. Thorough cleaning is vital for good bonding of the adhesive.
2.Follow the manufacturer's directions for preparing the JB Weld 8265-S adhesive.
3.Spread a generous amount of adhesive on the leak area and 1 to 2 inches surrounding it.
4.Reassemble the engine, making sure not to disturb the adhesive.
5.Let the adhesive set for at least 24 hours before you start the engine. This is vital because engine oil pressure will try to push through the repair.
6.If you pressure-tested the block, pull fuse No. 11 from the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box to disable the ignition system. Then crank the engine for 10 to 15 seconds; this ensures that the engine bearings are lubricated before you start the engine. After you crank the engine, reinstall the fuse.
7.Start the engine, and let it run for 20 minutes. Then shut it off, and confirm that the leak is gone.

Confirming the Leak
http://alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V1...9114/105738908
The engine may leak at any of six known areas. Confirm the leak with this chart, then repair it using Repair Procedure A or B.
http://alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V1...9114/105738909
Illustration 1
http://alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V1...9114/105738910
Illustration 2
http://alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V1...9114/105738918
Illustration 3
http://alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V1...9114/105738919

That is just the known areas, how about the unknown or ones they are not admitting?


Wow, that sucks.

in this picture the oil leaks could easily look like a rear main seal or an oil pan, but also here's something to:ponder:about.... (at bottom of post) [for StonedCL at least]

http://alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V1...9114/105738910

what two bolts did they distube when they did your tranny???
that's right the upper two transmission mounting bolts!!! :rolleyes:

also honda could be recommending to replace the block to fix the oil leaks :what:

but at least it is not like chrysler (i think on the sebring or something like that) where their fix to a porous tranny case is to take a air hammer and pound the case to make the case more dense

Stoned CL I would just like to say a few thing to you, in light of everything that has happened to you.

I feel your pain, when it comes to being dicked around and taken advantage of. I had a Probe and could NEVER find a single person who knew the car and how to make everything the way it SHOULD BE. went through 4 alternators, 2 trannys, 3 motors, 2 sets of brakes calipers. YOU NAME IT, I had the problem.

I must thank my bad luck for my knowledge of cars now however since that POS taught me everything I know practically about mechanics and cars. Since I did most of the work myself to save the money I didn't have to spend on the damn thing!

SECONDLY Stoned CL i must THANK YOU, when my tranny went on me 2 months or so ago. You told me to get a transstar tq converter and a couple of other very useful pointers which I applied to my guy who rebuilt my tranny. And I am more than happy with the $1700 CAD rebuild with about 10000kms on it already!

You helped me out big time and I'd like to thank you for it.

On the other note of having a car that keeps giving you problems.. All I can say is, move on and you will be rewarded.

I used to think I could overcome my probe and all it's problems, but really it just made me lose sleep and even more money.

It's a big step to let ur baby go (as I did) , but it all turned out for the better.

GL with ur next RIDE. I'd definately be g37ing it UP

Thanks Progression, Yeah I think it is time to let her go, well I know its time..
10 years (in march) with the same car and I am just sick of putting money into it.
Like I said B4 im sure that the person that buys my car and fixes the leak will be able to put 100K more TROUBLEFREE miles on the car. I did do most the work myself with my tech freinds when I worked at saturn cuz it was slow and the shop was always open to us but there are some thing I with help from GM tech CAN'T DO!
I am in the process of taking my friends 2009 Maxima lease over (he has 23 payments left and about 28K miles) payments are 375 for a fully loaded (with nav) 2009 Maxima with no money down. So i little more the 8K and I drive a maxima for 2 years then Buy the new M56...I was thinking of getting a TSX with 2500 down 350/month base TSX 12 k a year 39 months but would rather put 0 down and drive a maxima for 2 years and have more miles to boot! I have it for sale for 4K ( I at least wanna recoupe my 3K for the tranny) and I am done with her, like a nagging X-wife!!!
Thansk for all the help guys but I think I am gonna make this someone elses problem!

I would try putting in the blue devil rear main sealer until you get another chance to replace the seals.

I don't even trust the Acura dealership to change my oil and wash my car, let alone change a rear main seal. Why would you even go to them for a quote? Are they charging $100 for a rubber seal and then $300 an hour for labor? I can't believe people still go to the dealership, I'd literally have Helen Keller work on my car before I took it to a dealership.