Trunk Latch not responding to button
 

Went outside to wash the car this morning, Unlocked all doors and trunk with the key Fob. I go around to the back of the car. Press the button over the license plate....Nothing. I figured the car was locked,...I unlocked it again, Pressed the button.... nothing. I pulled the cable next to the drivers seat it opens. (of course) Then I pressed the Trunk button on the key fob it opens.

WTF.

So I break out the helms manual and do a test with my volt meter. It was hot. So now im like WTF. Why would it respond to the key fob & not the button over the license plate. Called smithtown Acura a replacement trunk switch is 71 Dollars. But something tells me the switch is not the problem.

Anybody got any advice?
CJ

check your glove box to see if the switch hasn't been flipped?

**Update***


The trunk has worked twice since this thread was started.

Only when I am washing my car.

The latch its functional, because I can still pop the trunk from the key fob

When I unlock the doors the trunk does not unlock.

Im thinking that its an electrical problem and somehow the water is completing the circuit somewhere.

I could be wrong..... but right now this is a problem that stops me from talkin shit to my friend that drives a Volkswagen...with all the electrical problems he has.
Until this is fixed Serinity's new name is (Farfig"Mugen").

I had this problem a few months ago. It was a short in the wire in the trunk. It was replaced under warranty for me.

did you check this??

My front passenger door lock actuator needs to be replaced as it doesn't unlock the door all the way. I've noticed that unless all the locks are pulled all the way up, the trunk won't open with the button. Just one more thing to look at.

that's what i thought

According to the 2007 manual, the "Trunk Main Switch" (glovebox switch) specifically disables the Trunk Release Switch in the trunk lid above the license plate. DEFINITELY check that before buying replacement parts or having a service department troubleshoot it.

I had to look it up, I can never remember what that does. To protect the trunk, you have to flip that switch, then lock the glovebox, then lock the Trunk Release Lever (by teh driver's door), THEN give out only the valet key. Yeesh. Just take your Faberge eggs out of the trunk before you leave it with someone. :rolleyes:


So, this kind of malfunction sounds like the trunk main switch has been inadvertantly flipped, or ... a fault with that circuit?

A completely WAG, off the wall suggestion ... check the switch, and then take stuff out of your glovebox except for the OM wallet. Maybe something's hitting that switch. You might also follow the steps to replace the pollen filter (dropping the glovebox) and inspect the switch -- maybe the wiring's going bad, or something's pinching the wire at the switch connection? Again, a WAG.

Please read this:

when you press the unlock button on your fob, it ONLY unlocks the driver's door.
it does NOT unlock the trunk.

when you press the unlock button on your fob TWICE, it unlocks EVERYTHING.

the trunk button will NOT work if only the driver's door is unlocked.
ALL doors must be unlocked for the trunk button to work.

I checked the switch in the glove box. That's not it.

Yes I think its a faulty wire in the same area that they did the brake light recall. I'm going to go over that ill rip the trunk out next week.

And yes I hit the key fob button multiple times, unlocking the drivers door then the rest of the doors.
So its not that.

I'm going to recheck the wiring job on that recall they did back in 05.
I have 80000 miles so no waranty.

The key thing that makes me think its a wiring issue is the fact that everytime I wash my car it works. And continues to work until I lock the car back.

The car is satuated with water. Also I'm rubbing the microfiber over it may slightly trigger enough static electricity stored in the panels maybe to zap the trunk open.

The lock poper is definately not broken because it works on the key fob.
Ill keep you guys posted thanks for the suggestions.I'm going to fiddle with the wires a little.

I didnt do shit to the car and the trunk just started working again. I cant call it.

I think the idea that the wiring is shorting out is your most likely culprit. It could also be some corrosion in a connector. I would anticipate that it will quit working again at some point in the future.

Could be!!!! Although I didnt fcuk around with the trunk at all. & I did my amp install two summers ago, and everything with my system is fine. I recently changed a tail light. Other than that nothing out of the ordinary.

When I go in for the 90,000 check up ill ask if they had anybody else report a similar problem.

Trunk Latch not responding to button
 

Folks, I just bought a used 2007 TSX and was going nuts trying to figure out why the the Trunk Release Switch didn't work as designed. A million 'Thank you"'s for your help. It was indeed the Main switch in the glove box. It would have taken me forever to discover that in the manual and maybe if Acura is listening, put a pointer to it in the section about opening the trunk.... This is my first ever append to AcuraZine.

2006 tsx door and trunk locks
 

2006 TSX Bought brand new, special ordered for me.
Key fob only unlocks driver door and trunk.
Key fob will lock all doors.
Manually inserting key in lock only locks driver's door.
Trunk button above license tag won't open trunk.
Dash lights flash on for an instant when I open door. Do not come back on until key is inserted in ignition.
Dome light on passenger side is intermittent.
Driver side seat heater hasn't worked for a couple of years, nor has the light that lights up the seat heater button.
Windows will not open with key in lock or key fob.
Checked fuses and changed battery in key fob.
Checked switch in glove box.
Called Acura, they said maybe an actuator. Take it to dealer. Just had it to dealer a couple of weeks ago for recalled hose. Went back out to car and all locks and trunk lid latch worked for the rest of day. Next morning, back to same old thing. This has been going on for a week.
Does anyone have any suggestions? All of these things happened in the same day, except the light in button for seat heater, the seat heater itself, and the passenger side dome light. Just thought I'd mention these things incase they were related and a long time coming. Thanks!

As with many queries posted here, your answers most likely reside in your glove box. If the owner's manual is read, front to back, (and I mean before there's a problem) many would be pleasantly surprised at the knowledge contained there in. RTFOM.

ok guys i might be able to help with this as my car is a taxi the boot gets a lot of use same thing happened to me its a broken or intermitting broken wire, mine was found on the shoulder of the boot lid or the hinge, peel of the plastic caseing and start checking the wires from memory i think it was a yellow wire, also if your rear lights start to flicker or come on and of and the bulbs are ok, same problem broken wire.

Same problem with mine, checked glovebox lock, driver side release, all locks work, fob works, only thing that doesn't is the button over the license plate.

Some mention on older posts of needing to replace the electric motor, supposedly a 50 cent part, or replacing the entire release assembly which appears to be 56 dollars.

Any ideas, id like to fix this problem for under a hundred bucks if possible.

anyone figure this out? just had this issue start.. checked wiring and it seems like the yellow wire is the issue. blue wire is the constant power and the black is ground. i know the glove box switch isnt the issue.. curious if anyone else had it and fixed it or know what the fix is??

anyone??

it is cynical, almost aggressive and patronizing responses like this that detract from the many helpful & understanding members here who DO use their keystrokes to inform instead of to insult.
Simba91102, you wasted my time and yours.

Aggressive? Hmm . . . not so sure about that. Humor perhaps, but with I will admit a slight touch of derision. I stand by what was I still think sage advice some almost 5 and a half years ago.

guys, check out the door lock or the door knob, if the knob not fully extended out, then the trunk will be in the lock position and can only open by key fob. I
realize this may be the issue after my passenger lock actuator failure, my door knob is not fully extend out to the full unlock position, and if clear it by hand to pull it (have door knob extend all the way to unlock), then the button on the trunk will work. try it and let us know!!!

Hi guys,
I am facing a similar problem as this, i have a 2012 honda (what acura is called in nz) euro model where the boot release button no longer works, but the key fob and internal electronic drivers door button does work.

How did this happen?
I was having panels resprayed from stone chips and when I got the car back home, I noticed none of the door electronics work, sunroof, auto windows locking etc, I took off the drivers door panel and found the main wire harness connecting to the auto window buttons hadn't been connected properly, its got a latch mechanism and maybe they just pushed it in without latching. Upon connecting that up all the electronics worked again but the external boot button. I took it back to body shop and they had a mechanic look at it, who hooked in a basic diagnostic computer and said there is nothing wrong with button, its sending a signal but not doing anything. I also took it to honda they hooked up their honda diagnostic computer also no luck on problem. The original body shop doing the spray job said it wasn't working when they got it (which it was), if they did actually check this i think they just hadn't pressed the unlock button on key fob twice. Honda will get a electrician to more thoroughly look over it at my expense, which i can see getting costly.

I checked with the voltmeter that there's 12v in the wire going to the button and i disconnected it and shorted the wire, taking the button out of the equation, and it did not activate that latch. So it sort of seems computer based issue not accepting it, or some issue with the drivers door main control switch as that had been touched previously, i couldn't see any damage or bent pins however. So on fault finding:

I have checked all relevant fuses and they seem fine.

I've checked the glove box lock switch. Its off. I turned it on, and yup it stopped the drivers door button from working, so don't think its an issue.

I've had the battery disconnected for 10min or so hoping it might reset its thinking but to no luck.

I've checked all the door locks to see if they are extended out fully which they are.

I've come across 2 other forums which say the same problem, no one seems to have solved it, some of these guys reckon it just starts working again, which so far for me it hasnt.
Help with faulty trunk button - Acura TSX Forum
Trunk release button not responsive! - Acura TSX Forum

So yeah any other advice, I'm willing to try. Like others have said, its not the end of the world as the key fob opens it but just so annoying. And the panel beater will only cover costs if proven that they caused the issue, first find the cause of the issue... :)