2006 Acura TL REAR rotors
 

Alright guys, I need your help BAD.

I am at my brothers house without a manual of any kind.

Front rotors and brake pads went fine.

We removed the caliper and the 2 screws from the rotors in the rear but the rotors will only come off about half an inch and not one inch more and we were pulling with our might... I personally never changed rear disc brakes (always had drums)

Made sure the e-brake was off, even pulled up and let off the ebrake to see if that helped. Nothing. Pounded it to hell with a rubber mallet. I didnt want to go to crazy and damage something since it is my brothers car.

My question is this:

How in the hell do you remove the REAR rotors from a 2006 Acura TL Automatic?

My apologies. My buddy called and told me you need to remove the rubber access plug and stick a flat head in the hole to loosen the tension on the shoes against the rotor...

Sorry guys....

D-085: Front and rear Brake disc (rotor), knuckle, hub, and front wheel bearing replacement
https://acurazine.com/forums/religion-politics-18/world-opinion-132940/


Check SM page 18-30 steps 7, 8 & 9. Ignore the stuff about the spindle nut in earlier steps - you don't need to remove it for a rotor change.

You only need to remove the caliper then ONLY the steps 7, 8, & 9 on 18-30 to remove the rotor.

Didnt really help. Thanks though. What I had to do was remove the rubber access plug on the rear rotors to access the ebrake shoe spring assembly which I turned to retract the shoes. I then was able to pull the rotor almost all the way off. Had to use a prybar at the end to finish the job to finally get them all the way off. I was just so use to just brake drums. Never messed with 4 wheel disc brakes. At least until yesterday.

It's the step with the 8 x 1.25 bolts that tells you how to back the rotor off the hub using the bolts - that would replace your need for a prybar. Step #9.

I'd think that simply releasing the e-brake would eliminate the need of backing the e-brake shoes off with the adjustment knob.

Regardless, glad you got 'em off and hopefully the thread and links will help someone else in the future.

nothing more irritating then when something stupid like that completely screws up what should be a 30-60 min job

Rotors should come off fairly easy with the e-brake off without backing off the shoes unless you were pulling crooked. If that's the case the shoes are always dragging and you have issues.

hello,

I know this thread is old but the only thing that come close to my problem. I cannot get the rear rotor out no matter what i tried to do. it wiggle a little bit but does not slide out. I need help, i don't know what else to do.

Any other suggestion that would possibly help?

thanks in advance

Or try this. Put everything together take long drive. Come back home park the car WITHOUT using e-brake. And start to remove the rear brake.

Did you get the rotor screws out?
the two little screws that are on the face of the rotor hub.
those screws are a bitch!

once those two screws are out, bang on the rotor itself with a soft mallet to loosen up the rust.

once you have banged on it pretty hard, rust will start to drop from the middle of the rotor and the spindle.

when loose, pull off rotor.



Do not do as the other poster above suggested and put everything back on. that is a big waste of time!!!!!

yes, screws(2) are out. hammer (check), all rust are loose, i could wiggle the rotor but it would not slide out as if something is holding it from behind

There should be nothing else holding it. Maybe just pull harder?

drench with brake cleaner, beat the shit out of it. if still not off repeat.

Did you remove the plug and turn the star wheel to loosen the e brake shoes?

make sure the E-brake isnt up!!

I am going to do this tomorrow but why the hell they use this design? Would of made sense if they used a rear bbk with this.

you shouldn't have to loosen the drum pads, but sometimes it's necessary. remove the rubber plug and turn the star wheel and also use the threads where you can screw in bolts to push on the hub to get the rotor off.

thanks for the tips guys.

so i finally got it out on saturday after i got super frustrated and banging it away. turns out, there was a thin lips inside the rotor that was locking on to the shoes.

anyone knows how the lips could have been form?

shoes were likely dragging because of improper adjustment

HELP!!!!!!!
I am having the exact same problem...I even tried to losing the star wheel. It will not move!!!
Any Suggestion before I cause more problems for myself?

I really need help, i have acura TL 2008 when i am making full left turns i am hearing that clicking noise and its only on the left turns, it is really hard to find an honest machanic here, they told me to change the drive shaft right side so i did it but the noise is still there can someone please help me

^ check your left and right axles for damage

Just to help out and simplify this for the less experienced, what he means is that the e-brake mechanism is located behind the rear brake rotor hub. The drum brake shoes push against the inside of the hub, using friction, causing the rear wheels to lock.

The problem results when the e-brake is not properly adjusted, causing one side to push more into the hub than the other, even when the e-brake is down. This over time can cause a groove on the inside of the hub, making it impossible to slide the rear rotor off. The only way to do it, as far as I know, is to loosen the e-brake mechanism.

How? Once you get everything disassembled to the point where only the rotor remains in place, you need to pull that little rubber nipple out located on the hub. Turn the rotor to the bottom so that nipple hole is at the bottom. Grab a flashlight and look through the hole. You'll see the star key gear in there (it's just off to one of the sides, a little ways past dead bottom- rotate the rotor a bit to eventually see it). You need to rotate that gear to loosen the mechanism. Not exactly easy but it is doable. Once you loosen that a bit, the rotor will slide off.

The tricky part is to readjust the mechanism so that it is adjusted evenly. This may take some trial and error.

Had issues removing rear rotors also. Ended up bending retaining/tension spring and finally came off. Replaced spring and it all went back on easy. Took a while to remove. Maybe loosening parking brake cable tension so it has slack in it would have helped.

Still having issue with rotor removal
 

if anyone is listening to this thread... I have battled and lost with removing rotors from TL 2006 6 spd manual. I have released e-brake and tried the star gear to loosen further the parking brake mechanism. Have tried the 8 MM bolts to push rotor from hub... on both left and right I get the same 1/2 inch from becoming free, but they will not come free. Since it is both sides with exact same issue, I am assuming I am just not completing a portion of the disassembly properly and now feel I have done some damage to whatever is behind the rotors... I am stuck and without transportion - if anyone has any advice it would truly be appreciated...

Thanks, Eric

There's one last adjustment of the parking brake cable under the center console that might help. Check in here.

https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...-041-a-578017/

Star Wheel was frozen
 

Turns out the star wheel adjustment mechanism for the parking brake was rusted/seized and despite my thinking it was turning, it was not. So I ended up with a small pry bar between the hub and inside of rotor to force the rotor to slide off... The parking brake shoes were applying enough friction that this was necessary. The parking brake retention pins had broken (the ones that hold the shoe flat against the rear lining) when using the 8 MM 'separator' bolts, so the parking brake shoes were winging out against the inside of the rotor... Replacing entire parking brake shoe mechanisms. As always acurazine community - excellent conversations and insights from some very conscientious acura owners!