Dust/dirt sticks to paint, why?
 

a few weeks ago I washed my car and my wife's car on the same day using meguiars gold class car wash. she drives her car more than I drive mine. two weeks later, my car is filthy and her car is still pretty clean. I've noticed that dirt/dust seems to stick to my car more than her car, why is that? :whyme:

This is an odd questions... and I have no idea how to help! Maybe its because you park in a dirty area?

Car color can play a roll in how clean it appears, when's the last time you waxed, if you drive in different areas you'll encounter different debris

when I go to the office I park in a garage and my car stays in a garage at home too, so it's under cover about 90% of the time. from what I've observed, it picks up dirt when I drive.

true, my car is black and my wife's car is teal (it's a corolla). however, if I run a finger along the paint on my car it is dirtier than my wife's.

I wax my car about every three months using meguiars, but like I said, the car is under cover 90% of the time if not more. I only drive 3 or so hours a week. I was hoping there might be a particular car wash or wax that might be able to help with this problem.

Dark color cars tend to show dust and dirt better than lighter color cars. I use to have a Gray colored TL and it hide dust pretty well. Now i got a black lexus and that shows dust and dirt. I see my self dusting my car more than my old TL!

I would suggest heading over to the Wash & Wax section of Acurazine to get an answer. My car is dark blue and I agree with what you're saying about dust and dirt. I suggest using a claybar to strip any wax residue and start a clean slate once a month. Claybar & waxing once a month really helped reduce dirt buildup on my TL by consistently keeping the paint smooth.

Its static electricity that attracts the dirt - your car is not electrically grounded (pun) because of those four rubber donuts on the bottom. And jumping in-and-out and rubbing your ass across the seat builds up the static.

Comments about color are spot-on, as I have had both black and white cars.

For myself, I have found that a 100% synthetic paint sealant attracts (slightly) less dirt than an actual wax. I have used Meguiar's #21 Poly Sealant (100% synthetic), and Meguiar's #26 Yellow wax (with carnauba).

I think that this is because the #21, as a fully synthetic, bonds to the paint, is thinner and slicker than the #26 wax, and there is nothing for dirt to 'stick-to', as with a wax. The wax does not bond to paint, it sits on top, is another layer, and is not as hard and slick as the #21 - so there is an extra layer into which dirt can embed.

The #26 gives a slightly better shine, which is not really noticable on my daily driver cars, but can be used over the #21, after the #21 has cured for 24 hours. I do this on the front end of my car sometimes, to help with the bugs. That is, the #26 provides an extra layer to prevent the bugs from sticking to and etching the paint.

And no, it does not work that well, but it does make it easier to remove the dead bugs at the next wash.

I feel you...My car is black and just from sitting in my garage with the door shut an hour after it's washed it dusty or in this season has pollen on it...My solution was I bought a car cover and after I drive the car I throw the cover on it so it's spotless when I take it off

dirt will collect on your paint no matter how great your car been washed, waxed. My TL pick dust particle up and I can see they are all over my side skirt.

I just ordered a bottle of #21 from amazon. can't wait to try it out! I'll probably go over the car with a clay bar first. I have xpel film on the front of my car so I don't have a problem with the bugs. :wish:

:thumbsup: for the recommendation!

The last 2 weeks have been very rough on my car, first it was the rain on & off, then the car got covered in Pollen, tons of it. Then it was the neighbor lawn cutting games, everyday a different neighbor next to me cuts their lawn & blows the grass clippings into the street which results in a dust storm. My neighbors put down so much fertilizer & seed they cut their lawns TWICE A WEEK. :ugh: I washed my car today & its already covered in dust. I give up, theres too much crap in the air.:whyme:

pollen and dark colored cars dont mix.

anyways, a claybar and a good coat of wax should help you repel a lot of that dust.

Just keep in mind that Meguiar's M21 has no cleaners, it is only for use on 'good' paint, so it is good idea that you plan to use a clay bar. I have never used one, and my cars are daily drivers, but the paint is OK. I use M21 because it is durable, and if the paint is washed well first, works fine for me.

As an additional notes, I use M21 on any smooth bare or painted plastic. For my RDX, that includes the silver bare plastic surround of the turbo intake, which otherwise water and finger-print spots badly. However, if the plastic is even subtly textured, the M21 does not work. It does not cause any problem, it just cannot be wiped off because it 'sticks' into the crevices. If you make a 'mistake', just use ArmorAll Original to remove it, and I use ArmorAll on the black part of the RDX turbo intake anyway.

I also use M21 on the tail-lights of my RDX, including the 3rd tail light, and the film on the headlights and fog lights. You may wish to check what is acceptable to use on any clear film. M21 will remove any slight mars on my headlight film from bugs.

And I use M21 on the bare headlight, tail lights, and bare black plastic parts on my Chevy Blazer, including the side mirrors, 3rd tail light cover, side trim, etc. It works much better than the 'black' products for plastic/ vinyl because those contain waxes which then wash off and run down the side of the paint. M21 has no wax, bonds to the plastic/ paint, and will not wash off.

Do not use M21 on rubber or vinyl, as indicated on the bottle. Again, M21 can be removed from rubber or vinyl with ArmorAll Original. I do not like the other ArmorAll products as they contain solvents. The Original contains only silicone and water. And if anyone doesn't like it, just don't use it - not interested in arguing with anyone who thinks ArmorAll 'rots' rubber.

Sorry, I am not trying to convince anyone to use this product - have no association with Meguiar's, and only intend to give some tips on its use.

Meguiar's FTW!!!

It's either electrostatic charge and/or the relative stickiness of the paint. I'd bet on the charge though. Differences in how the car is grounded, and material composition will change how much static charge builds up.

Have you ever looked at the ceiling of the car lot?

I had a job in an older building with a car park in the basement. The pipes and beams were covered in dust and so was my car at the end of the day. My car would actually be cleaner when I left it outside.

toyota paint versus honda paint...not sure what the differences would be?? hadn't given much thought to the static idea, but when I look at the way dust/dirt stick to the paint that sorta makes sense too.

nope, haven't really paid much attention to the ceiling in the deck, but next time I'm in the office I'll be sure to look out! thanks. :thumbsup:

Any ideas on how to get tree sap off stock paint?

I used wd-40 when I get tar on the paint, so I'd wager it would work on sap too.

Turtle Wax Bug and Tar remover will probably work, and is less likely than WD40 to damage the paint. Remember that WD40 is more of a penetrant (which is why is works) than an oil. If WD40 is used, then use Meguiar's M7 pure polish to restore the paint oils (non-abrasive), not the normal usage of the word polish (an abrasive).

3M brand Bug and Tar remover will be stronger than the Turtle Wax brand. Also try the automotive GOO-GONE. And as a last resort use WD40, which I have never used on body paint myself, only the back side of my wheels to remove the 'glue' from removed tire weights.

Problem with tree sap is that it will stain the paint if left too long. It actually will embed into the clear layer. And if left long enough, will etch through the clear coat into the colored layer - you should see what it does to black paint.

Anyway, I personnaly would not use WD40, but if my other two suggestions do not work, then I have tried Meguiar's less abrasive polishing paste such as ScratchX. I am concerned that anything more abrasive would polish through the clear coat. ScratchX is pretty safe, but of course, if the tree sap is through the clear coat, it is not going to remove the stain.

Good luck - and let us know what you used and what actually worked. We all like to learn.

i do agree with claying to get mostly everything off the clear coat but i do not suggest every month, you will start to see HEAVY swirling. Do a proper clay bar process followed by waxing and a sealant... that should help. All paints are different, from the company to the color, some paints are softer and harder and some collect dust and get "dirtier" than others, its just the ways is. Follow proper washing techniques and youll be okay

this article should help, although extensive and difficult but just posting to give you a better idea

http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...-pearl-part-1/

thanks for posting this! I did use the meg m21 that dcmodels recommended and it's working pretty well over the last week or so. :thumbsup:

A lot depends on the sap itself ... 95% of the time rubbing alcohol will remove it but in the case of some turpentine is needed . Claying is a waste of time on sap tho it will work ... can do some damage tho.

That's the incorrect order .. sealants won't bond to waxes.

WD40 won't hurt the paint ... and just FYI .. look it up .. WD40 was developed by the aero space industry to displace water .. thus the WD = Water Displace and the 40 was the 40th formulation. You don't want to polish off sap .. doing this also means your polishing the clear around it. As with tar sap should be dissolved by applying what you use and letting it soften the sap then wipe to remove. Some saps like pine tree can dry and the best way to deal with the blob is to wet it with what you use then after 30 sec. or so scratch the top of the blob with your fingernail to break the surface then reapply the solution to let it penetrate.

I use M21 exclusively on all the details I do ( +100 a year ) Ease of application and removal and very durable.

Ive noticed if you use carnuba waxes the dust will settle and stick more so then if you use a good synthetic wax, there are some synthetics that actually reduce surface tension and static of the surface making it more difficult for dust to settle/stick.