how to replace a tie rod end?
I can't find any info or a diy anywhere. I can remove the end from the knuckle no problem, but how the heck do I remove the other side (adjustment side)?
There is a nut on the steering rack part and a nut on the tie rod end. I tried twisting them opposite directions, but they wont budge (even with pb bolt buster). There is also a notch on the actual tie rod that I have tried using a wrench on, but with no luck. Maybe I just don't have enough leverage, but I find it hard to believe that they have to use shitloads of force when they adjust the toe on my car during an alignment. :ugh: The haynes manual is of no help btw. All it says is "remove tie rod from steering rack"! |
you mean to take off the inner tie rod or just seperate the inner and out tie rods from each other
also what side are talking about here, cause one side should have reversed threads |
Loosen the bolt then place a wrench on on the on the tierod and place on on the output shaft (the threaded part should have a notch on it) and spin the tierod off. You may need force to break the bolt free but after that it should come off.
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
(Post 11610741)
Loosen the bolt then place a wrench on on the on the tierod and place on on the output shaft (the threaded part should have a notch on it) and spin the tierod off. You may need force to break the bolt free but after that it should come off.
1) the outer tie rod itself 2) the nut between the outer and inner tie rod 3) the threaded part of the inner tie rod Are you saying I need to loosen #2 from #1 first, and then spin spin #1 off? Also, any suggestions for a tool that will allow me more leverage than my crescent wrenches? |
Originally Posted by Sust Man
(Post 11611902)
Ok. So there are 3 places I can put a wrench.
1) the outer tie rod itself 2) the nut between the outer and inner tie rod 3) the threaded part of the inner tie rod Are you saying I need to loosen #2 from #1 first, and then spin spin #1 off? Also, any suggestions for a tool that will allow me more leverage than my crescent wrenches? also leave the outer tie rod sitting in the knuckle with the nut on loosely, so it will keep it from turning for you |
the nuts on the end are the locknuts- you tighten them after you adjust the threaded part to adjust its length
Measure the length of the exposed rod before removal and set new one close to that- should be ok to drive to alignment shop then hold the rod by its wrench part and loosen the nuts- one is opposite direction of normal. A big wrench- something a foot long is what mechanics use- and holding 2 wrenches together- so you are securing the rod with one and pulling opposite of it with the other wrench,,does that make sense? |
I would not use cresent wrenches on these nuts- they are on as tight as you can get them with a big wrench that fits,,
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
(Post 11612618)
the nuts on the end are the locknuts- you tighten them after you adjust the threaded part to adjust its length
Measure the length of the exposed rod before removal and set new one close to that- should be ok to drive to alignment shop then hold the rod by its wrench part and loosen the nuts- one is opposite direction of normal. A big wrench- something a foot long is what mechanics use- and holding 2 wrenches together- so you are securing the rod with one and pulling opposite of it with the other wrench,,does that make sense? |
good idea fries,
I measure so I dont get stuck remembering: was that counting half or full rotations ??duuuuhhh |
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
(Post 11613632)
good idea fries,
I measure so I dont get stuck remembering: was that counting half or full rotations ??duuuuhhh and to remember it, i just scratch it into wheel well liner with a screwdriver (just has to be deep enough that you can read it) (or maybe a paint pen onto the liner) |
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
(Post 11612621)
I would not use cresent wrenches on these nuts- they are on as tight as you can get them with a big wrench that fits,,
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Originally Posted by Sust Man
(Post 11616185)
Cool. What is the difference between a crescent wrench and a "big wrench"? Just a bigger crescent I guess? Sorry if its a dumb question
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
(Post 11616248)
Get a BOX wrench and dont use a crescent wrench. Get the correct size wrench needed.
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Originally Posted by totaledTL
(Post 11616966)
Don't think he could use a box end in this case, maybe a flare nut wrench. Always better to use correct size wrench rather than adjustable.
http://www.toolnet.co.za/images/45963.jpg |
With all due respect that pic is of combination wrenches, not box wrenches. A box wrench, by definition, would have to enclose all sides of the fastener. :smile:
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careful totaled- dont mess with kris or find yourself in the doghouse,,,lose post counts- get a 7 day time out~
Yes he put a pic of `combo` wrenches which have the box and open ends of 1 size BUT it shows what a proper tool looks like Cresent/adjustable wrenches loosen and damage the important lock nuts Invest in 1 or 2 wrenches the right size or get a kit with several as pictured try harbor freight for cheap or sears for good stuff |
Lol- ok- ain't skeered tho.... :biggrin:
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Ha. Ok I guess my terminology was wrong too. I am using a "fixed" wrench like the one pictured. I always called those adjustable ones chinese wrenches. A buddy used to call them that and it just kinda stuck with me. Ok so THOSE are the crescent wrench, not the chinese wrench. Sorry hope no chinese get offended by that :tongue:
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this is a crescent wrench
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...UL._AA260_.jpg |
Hmm, somebody hacked my avatar...
<----------:ponder: |
Originally Posted by totaledTL
(Post 11619144)
Hmm, somebody hacked my avatar...
<----------:ponder: what does the bottom say, can't read it, too small |
When you have 10-12 hours to spare.
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