A-125: Valve Adjustment Procedure/Scans
 

I'm fairly sure I'm in need of a valve adjustment; can someone point me in the direction of HOW to do this? Or would it be best to get it serviced and done? I'm only at 76k, so I figured it wasn't necessary, but I've been hearing the knocking more so lately...

I KNOW that Acura charges an arm...

* what you do for the valve adjustment would be great info too, if someone could provide it! thanks all!!!

It's in the service manual eric. ;) I've never done it on the TL but have on b-series engines which require removing the valve cover, a special socket to loosen the adjustment bolt, a flat head screw driver to adjust the valve lashes, and feeler gauges to get them in spec (all adjust with each cylinder at TDC and not 180 degrees off).

It's funny that you asked this because I've noticed my valves are pretty noisy and I'm at 86k miles now. I did slightly overrev it a few weeks back so I'm wondering if I bent any valves (although that's usually pretty obvious).

A valve adjustment is a part of the 105k service, as far as I know, but I bet most dealers don't even bother.

Also, it should be a ticking sound, not really a knock. If you hear a audible knocking sound.... that's not good. The injectors will make a ticking sound as well but usually it's pretty faint.

yup i need mine too i just ordered the gaskets the other day...i ahve all the tools and its pretty involved... so u need to take your time the tech told me he likes to do it 2 ways....fist when the car is cold and then tear down n retighten after it gets hot n starts to cool off.....im like yea there goes 3grand out the window ill just do it myself thanks

oh and u need to be super careful like eluzion said if ur off by 180 degrees say goodnight to ur motor

Does anyone know if you need a special wrench to hold tighten/loosen the nut? I'm not sure how far down it sits down inside the head.

It actually looks very straight forward on the TL. There's even numbered indicators to let you know what cylinder is TDC. The only part that can be a pain if you've never done it is getting the clearance right. The manual indicates it should be "a slight amount of drag", which can vary from person to person. The best way I've found to do it is always make sure the feeler gauge that is .001 inches bigger can't fit. For example, the intake side valve clearance is 0.008-0.009 inches. I would adjust it using the 0.008 inch feeler gauge until you feel a slight drag. Grab the 0.009 inch feeler gauge and it shouldn't fit and the 0.007 feeler gauge should slide around very easily.

Also, when you tighten the adjustment nut, you have to carefully hold the valve adjustment screw in place else when you tighten the nut, you will turn the adjustment screw with it. Always double check the clearances after you've tightened the nut.

EDIT: On a second thought, adjusting those rear cylinders is probably a pain in the ass with the lack of room to work back there. Damn these V6's...

Anyways, here's the instructions from the 2004 TL service manual.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_hZnhfIGUUMY/Sb...Nb_AOE0/v1.jpg

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_hZnhfIGUUMY/Sb...7k/s576/v2.jpg

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_hZnhfIGUUMY/Sb...6w/s576/v3.jpg

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_hZnhfIGUUMY/Sb...wL41B5E/v4.jpg

...definitely will not be doing these myself lol
it's expensive i hear though, booo...

jamie, how are you? how's MS?!

no special tools needed bro... it is straight forward make sure u get the new instake gaskets and valve cover gaskets. and anything else you pull apart u need gaskets.... and even tho it indicates what piston is TDC it doesnt tell u if its 180 out of phase or in...lol those r stereo terms but it seems to make sense here. you can be at piston 1 and it says tdc but you can be all the way down in the motor so then you have to crank all the way around again til u hit true tdc.

just a word of advice because ive done a few of the older TL's if u get frustrated step away and take a brether....clear ur mind....u dont wanna fuck this up :thumbsup:

Yeah, well it should be obvious if you're 180 degrees off because the valves would be pressed in (open) and no feeler gauge will fit. Plus you can just look at the cam lobes to make sure the valves are fully closed.

Anyways, how is it working on the back ones? I had a hard enough time just trying to replace the damn spark plugs, haha. Man, how I miss the easy DIY 4 bangers...

Eric - It's alright, could be worse I guess. Food is good, people are different, and I hate mosquitos.

Ok. Kinda a thread resurecction but its the best place for my question.

Do you adjust both the intake and exhaust valves at the same time on one cylinder?

And what size is the adjusting nut? 8mm, 10mm?

Bump. Can some please answer my ?s

Have not done this, but the way the Service Manual is written, you'd do all the valves on one cylinder, then move to the next cylinder.

8mm or 10mm. :dunno:.

Not be a smart ass exactly, but don't you have both? (you knew somebody would say that, right?) :wink:

BTW - I don't see anything in the Service Manual or that says one way or the other.

Some good info here, i will be checking the clearance and hopefully it is within spec.

I am thinking i need to do this at 90k.

So i need to formulate a parts list.

From here i'll need 2 of 12030-RCA-A01
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

Then from this shot i'll need the intake gasket 17105-RCA-A01
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

Anything else?

Is there a thread with scans on how to remove the valve covers? thanks

i may pick up a honda valve adjustment tool for like 15 bucks. They all seem to have a 10mm socket. is that the correct size for the 3g TL?

Videos for the visual learners
 

Thanks for the info, just an FYI the engine needs to be stone cold when doing this. Here are 2 really good videos that I think explain it well, for the visual learners out there:thumbsup:

I have an 08 with 102k on it. The ticking was occurring for three days. It stopped 3 days ago. Should I still go through with the service? Is it possible for the noise to come and go?

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/OnyqVg3nWRk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Box end wrench works best for me, don't have to fiddle with reversing the ratchet all the time when a socket is used.

How much would it cost if I take it to the shop. I just hit 200k and starting to really hear it hopefully nothing bad comes out of it...