Hot weather engine bog
07-24-2015, 07:03 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Hot weather engine bog
So I have owned my 2012 TSX SE 6-spd for four years and have always had terrible engine response and bogging on the hot humid summer days (with AC on much worse). The car runs perfect on cooler days.
Is it an air intake issue causing heat soaking? Or the throttle body having hot coolant flowing through it causing heat soak?
My car is out of warranty soon and I am not trying to make my car go faster I have another car for that
I just want the engine to respond better on the hot days of summer.
Is it an air intake issue causing heat soaking? Or the throttle body having hot coolant flowing through it causing heat soak?
My car is out of warranty soon and I am not trying to make my car go faster I have another car for that
I just want the engine to respond better on the hot days of summer.
07-25-2015, 12:01 PM
#5
Internal combustion engines make less power in hot weather. It's simple physics: hot air = less dense = less fuel needed to maintain 14:1 stoichiometric ratio. Forced induction helps, but doesn't eliminate the problem.
07-25-2015, 02:56 PM
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
Hot weather engine bog
So does anyone have a solution? Am I the only TSX owner who experiences the condition or does everyone just live with it? I do plan on bypassing the coolant to the throttle body but I am not sure if doing this will eliminate the bogging in the heat.
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07-25-2015, 10:44 PM
#9
Yeah dude just live with it.. Same shit with mine here in orlando. Most if not every single one of my 4cyl Hondas/acuras had this issue.. No torque.. Buy a v6 or turbo something if it bothers you too much.
07-26-2015, 06:01 AM
#10
Instructor
Thread Starter
Hot weather engine bog
Actually turbos are not immune to it, I came from the 2008 Acura RDX when it was a turbo 4. That car had bad response during hot humid days also.
I am really not used to this having come from V8s before my two Acuras. I once had fuel percolating on my carbed Z28 back in the day but that was easily taken care of with a phenolic spacer under the carb and blocking the coolant passage on the intake manifold.
Thanks all for the help I will try the throttle body coolant bypass anyway.
I am really not used to this having come from V8s before my two Acuras. I once had fuel percolating on my carbed Z28 back in the day but that was easily taken care of with a phenolic spacer under the carb and blocking the coolant passage on the intake manifold.
Thanks all for the help I will try the throttle body coolant bypass anyway.
07-28-2015, 06:58 PM
#12
like, explained above, cooler air is denser air. denser air = moar POWAH!
on the TL side, we've modded our cars to let heat out of the engine more efficiently.
Vents
- the original innovator cut up the windshield hood cowl. this let out MAJOR heat. a couple caveats; you lose the ability to switch to outside fresh air. it also leaves underneath the cowl exposed to the elements; leaves, rain, sand, etc.
- we've done M3 hood vents which let out hot air where it's needed. Right above the engine.
- you can use any stock car vent. i personally like the MB vents that sit parallel with the windshield cowl.
Throttle body coolant re-route
Just like the name implies, we've circled back the coolant lines so that the hot coolant never reaches the intake.
because the intake air temperature sensor is IMPORTANT.
this leads into the
Air intake temp. sensor relocate
re-locate the temp. sensor away from any hot sources.
- caveat....we found that moving the sensor is tricky, and you have to monitor it closely to find the sweet spot.
which leads to.....
SHORT RAM INTAKES!
why is it bad? because it soaks up all the heat in the engine bay.
remember that IAT sensor, i mentioned earlier.... yes, its important.
since the air filter of the short ram is sitting right next to the IAT sensor...
you guessed it...
the sensor will pick up the hot temps and will report back to the ECU scaling back timing.
this leads to..
octane.
you need the highest octane available in order to prevent pre-detonation and timing being retarded
remember ladies and fellers, heat is bad.....mmmmkay
Last edited by justnspace; 07-28-2015 at 07:09 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by justnspace:
SleEper_Cu2 (08-13-2015),
xtcnrice (07-28-2015)
The following users liked this post:
justnspace (07-29-2015)
08-07-2015, 10:14 PM
#16
Intermediate
it's not.
like, explained above, cooler air is denser air. denser air = moar POWAH!
on the TL side, we've modded our cars to let heat out of the engine more efficiently.
Vents
- the original innovator cut up the windshield hood cowl. this let out MAJOR heat. a couple caveats; you lose the ability to switch to outside fresh air. it also leaves underneath the cowl exposed to the elements; leaves, rain, sand, etc.
- we've done M3 hood vents which let out hot air where it's needed. Right above the engine.
- you can use any stock car vent. i personally like the MB vents that sit parallel with the windshield cowl.
Throttle body coolant re-route
Just like the name implies, we've circled back the coolant lines so that the hot coolant never reaches the intake.
because the intake air temperature sensor is IMPORTANT.
this leads into the
Air intake temp. sensor relocate
re-locate the temp. sensor away from any hot sources.
- caveat....we found that moving the sensor is tricky, and you have to monitor it closely to find the sweet spot.
which leads to.....
SHORT RAM INTAKES!
why is it bad? because it soaks up all the heat in the engine bay.
remember that IAT sensor, i mentioned earlier.... yes, its important.
since the air filter of the short ram is sitting right next to the IAT sensor...
you guessed it...
the sensor will pick up the hot temps and will report back to the ECU scaling back timing.
this leads to..
octane.
you need the highest octane available in order to prevent pre-detonation and timing being retarded
remember ladies and fellers, heat is bad.....mmmmkay
like, explained above, cooler air is denser air. denser air = moar POWAH!
on the TL side, we've modded our cars to let heat out of the engine more efficiently.
Vents
- the original innovator cut up the windshield hood cowl. this let out MAJOR heat. a couple caveats; you lose the ability to switch to outside fresh air. it also leaves underneath the cowl exposed to the elements; leaves, rain, sand, etc.
- we've done M3 hood vents which let out hot air where it's needed. Right above the engine.
- you can use any stock car vent. i personally like the MB vents that sit parallel with the windshield cowl.
Throttle body coolant re-route
Just like the name implies, we've circled back the coolant lines so that the hot coolant never reaches the intake.
because the intake air temperature sensor is IMPORTANT.
this leads into the
Air intake temp. sensor relocate
re-locate the temp. sensor away from any hot sources.
- caveat....we found that moving the sensor is tricky, and you have to monitor it closely to find the sweet spot.
which leads to.....
SHORT RAM INTAKES!
why is it bad? because it soaks up all the heat in the engine bay.
remember that IAT sensor, i mentioned earlier.... yes, its important.
since the air filter of the short ram is sitting right next to the IAT sensor...
you guessed it...
the sensor will pick up the hot temps and will report back to the ECU scaling back timing.
this leads to..
octane.
you need the highest octane available in order to prevent pre-detonation and timing being retarded
remember ladies and fellers, heat is bad.....mmmmkay
You guys don't even know the meaning of heatsoak and power loss! I live in ABQ NM, hot desert climate, 100+ summer days, and a mile above sea level
=very, not dense air, less oxygen
but justnspace summed it up nicely. I really have to beat the piss out of my car to accelarate in the dead heat in the middle of the day.
08-08-2015, 06:15 AM
#17
Instructor
Thread Starter
Hot weather engine bog
Yes, my car is a hesitating slow dog trying to move from a dead stop when it gets hot and humid.
But when it gets cooler the car feels smooth and responsive.
It amazes me that the manufacturer can release a model with this difficiency. Don't they test in hot weather?
I am glad my car is a manual at least I can rev the wheezer and get it to move, automatics must be terrible!
I did the TB bypass and it didn't do much to alleviate the problem.
But when it gets cooler the car feels smooth and responsive.
It amazes me that the manufacturer can release a model with this difficiency. Don't they test in hot weather?
I am glad my car is a manual at least I can rev the wheezer and get it to move, automatics must be terrible!
I did the TB bypass and it didn't do much to alleviate the problem.
08-08-2015, 08:23 AM
#18
Drifting
Just had a crazy thought... or ingenious. Lol
Why don't somebody try routing the ac line through the throttle coolant line? Pressure too high?
or supply ac cooled air from the passenger area to intake? Lol
Bingo... route one ac outlet to the air intake! Thats a do able mod.
Or through the throttle body coolant line and vent it to the atmosphere. Ding ding ding... we have a winner!
Lol this will work in winter too by supplying heated air? You can just put a valve in line to turn it off if you want.
Why don't somebody try routing the ac line through the throttle coolant line? Pressure too high?
or supply ac cooled air from the passenger area to intake? Lol
Bingo... route one ac outlet to the air intake! Thats a do able mod.
Or through the throttle body coolant line and vent it to the atmosphere. Ding ding ding... we have a winner!
Lol this will work in winter too by supplying heated air? You can just put a valve in line to turn it off if you want.
Last edited by 01acls; 08-08-2015 at 08:34 AM.
08-16-2015, 06:38 PM
#19
Instructor
Thread Starter
Hot weather engine bog
Update on hot weather bog. I reinstalled the throttle body coolant bypass. It did not do much to fix my problem and just in case we get another winter like last year in New England I would rather not take a chance with throttle blades freezing/sticking.
I want to again thank justnspace for his tip about the battery possibly contributing to the hot weather bog.
I was noticing my car was turning over very slowly. So I bought a new Optima red top series 35 battery. It has 720 CCA vs stock OEM of 410 CCA. My problem has been eliminated. My car starts great of course but the hesitation/bog is gone. The computer and the sensors (ref voltages) must be extremely sensitive to low battery voltage.
For others wanting to install the Optima red top series 35, it is shorter than the stock battery and a little wider so it won't fit in the stock flimsy plastic battery tray. I removed the flimsy tray and installed the plastic cover that comes with the Optima and installed it on the bottom of the Optima. This gave me the height I needed for the stock battery hold down to clamp properly. It fits this way and is not moving around.
Thanks justnspace :-)
I want to again thank justnspace for his tip about the battery possibly contributing to the hot weather bog.
I was noticing my car was turning over very slowly. So I bought a new Optima red top series 35 battery. It has 720 CCA vs stock OEM of 410 CCA. My problem has been eliminated. My car starts great of course but the hesitation/bog is gone. The computer and the sensors (ref voltages) must be extremely sensitive to low battery voltage.
For others wanting to install the Optima red top series 35, it is shorter than the stock battery and a little wider so it won't fit in the stock flimsy plastic battery tray. I removed the flimsy tray and installed the plastic cover that comes with the Optima and installed it on the bottom of the Optima. This gave me the height I needed for the stock battery hold down to clamp properly. It fits this way and is not moving around.
Thanks justnspace :-)
The following users liked this post:
xtcnrice (08-17-2015)
08-20-2015, 05:16 AM
#21
Instructor
Thread Starter
Hot weather engine bog
Octane is 93 and I have tried different gas stations.
I also tried 89 octane once during the hot weather just to see if it would have an effect. It did not seem to make much difference.
The battery was the fix, and it has been real hot here in New England with high humidity so it has been a good test.
Absolutely no bog anymore.
I also tried 89 octane once during the hot weather just to see if it would have an effect. It did not seem to make much difference.
The battery was the fix, and it has been real hot here in New England with high humidity so it has been a good test.
Absolutely no bog anymore.
08-27-2015, 05:02 PM
#22
Former Sponsor
That's interesting to hear that the battery fixed some of that bog. I feel it's particularly noticeable with my turbo car. The higher temps really kill PSI. My NA just feels slow no matter what. 
09-01-2015, 08:38 PM
#23
it's not.
like, explained above, cooler air is denser air. denser air = moar POWAH!
on the TL side, we've modded our cars to let heat out of the engine more efficiently.
Vents
- the original innovator cut up the windshield hood cowl. this let out MAJOR heat. a couple caveats; you lose the ability to switch to outside fresh air. it also leaves underneath the cowl exposed to the elements; leaves, rain, sand, etc.
- we've done M3 hood vents which let out hot air where it's needed. Right above the engine.
- you can use any stock car vent. i personally like the MB vents that sit parallel with the windshield cowl.
Throttle body coolant re-route
Just like the name implies, we've circled back the coolant lines so that the hot coolant never reaches the intake.
because the intake air temperature sensor is IMPORTANT.
this leads into the
Air intake temp. sensor relocate
re-locate the temp. sensor away from any hot sources.
- caveat....we found that moving the sensor is tricky, and you have to monitor it closely to find the sweet spot.
which leads to.....
SHORT RAM INTAKES!
why is it bad? because it soaks up all the heat in the engine bay.
remember that IAT sensor, i mentioned earlier.... yes, its important.
since the air filter of the short ram is sitting right next to the IAT sensor...
you guessed it...
the sensor will pick up the hot temps and will report back to the ECU scaling back timing.
this leads to..
octane.
you need the highest octane available in order to prevent pre-detonation and timing being retarded
remember ladies and fellers, heat is bad.....mmmmkay
like, explained above, cooler air is denser air. denser air = moar POWAH!
on the TL side, we've modded our cars to let heat out of the engine more efficiently.
Vents
- the original innovator cut up the windshield hood cowl. this let out MAJOR heat. a couple caveats; you lose the ability to switch to outside fresh air. it also leaves underneath the cowl exposed to the elements; leaves, rain, sand, etc.
- we've done M3 hood vents which let out hot air where it's needed. Right above the engine.
- you can use any stock car vent. i personally like the MB vents that sit parallel with the windshield cowl.
Throttle body coolant re-route
Just like the name implies, we've circled back the coolant lines so that the hot coolant never reaches the intake.
because the intake air temperature sensor is IMPORTANT.
this leads into the
Air intake temp. sensor relocate
re-locate the temp. sensor away from any hot sources.
- caveat....we found that moving the sensor is tricky, and you have to monitor it closely to find the sweet spot.
which leads to.....
SHORT RAM INTAKES!
why is it bad? because it soaks up all the heat in the engine bay.
remember that IAT sensor, i mentioned earlier.... yes, its important.
since the air filter of the short ram is sitting right next to the IAT sensor...
you guessed it...
the sensor will pick up the hot temps and will report back to the ECU scaling back timing.
this leads to..
octane.
you need the highest octane available in order to prevent pre-detonation and timing being retarded
remember ladies and fellers, heat is bad.....mmmmkay
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