ivan_baez

Hi, I have an international ECU. I wanted to get a reflash but hondata told me they do not have a reflash for my application (ECU brand and model looks the same, suffix changes). So I got in the quest of finding a US ECU to try it out. I was able to get one with Hondata reflash already installed, had it mated to my vehicle and give it a try. The full pedal sensation is good but then it feels not pulling as strong as before, with the stock International ECU.

I did some previous testing with the stock ECU by hooking up a boost gauge. Basically the behavior is the following:

Stock Inbternational ECU: peak of 15-16 psi, then goes down to 12-13psi and stays there until 6000 RPM, where it goes down to 7-8psi.
With the Hondata ECU the behavior is the following: peak of 15psi, then goes down to 10psi and stays there until it shifts to the next gear.

The fact that boost goes down at mid RPM I think is the reason why it feels slower in that range. The weird thing is that both US and International models (at least for 2007 model) share the same specs.

Anyone who has hondata reflash can verify if this is the correct boost behavior in their vehicle?


I contacted Hondata and asked them how to know if the firmware did not get messed up during the EXU mating to my vehicle, they told me to ckeck the RPM level at shifting, should rise to 7250 RPM on "S" mode as per the page’s information. I have seen it only from 1st to 2nd gear and is 6500 RPM, they don’t know if applies to all gears or not, so I’ll have to take it out to the highway to check it out just to make sure. If it does not go up to 7250RPM I would have to send it back to Hondata to restore the reflash and try again.

I read the flashpro tool also allows boost tweaking, does someone has this already?, can it share how the boost tool works?, is it limited, do you set up kind of a map (RPM based) or just limits?

Thanks for your feedback.

bluecarbonfiber

flashpro allows you to change boost levels

ivan_baez

how much and how does it do it? (I mean the interface, not in regards the is solenoid controlled)

Tomtwtwtw

It's around 700 bucks, although I think Excelerate is having a sale. Check out their thread for details. It's tuning software that lets you adjust all kinds of parameters, but obviously do so at your own risk or through a reputable tuning shop, or just use one of the pre-made reflashes supplied by Hondata.

ivan_baez

I saw the flash pro brochure, but this is where my question comes from:

I got a ECU that was reflashed by hondata
if the firmware (hondata reflash) was erased by the dealer while mating it to my vehicle it only costs 75 bucks to have it reflashed again
I wonder if the flashpro boost adjustment is limited

lets say, if the flashpro boost adjustment is limited to the boost level of the hondata reflash, then it makes no sense to get the flash pro.

the question makes sense?

Tomtwtwtw

Makes perfect sense, and to get your specific answer on just how adjustable the Pro is, you might e-mail Excelerate or download the software from Hondata's website (it's free to download and play with). Unfortunately I am not a Flashpro owner (yet... ), so I can't tell you what its limits are.

bluecarbonfiber

the limits are by the map sensor which is 26psi no testing was done above 15 psi with 800cc injectors.. read there QandA on it www.hondata.com/flashpro_acura_rdx_turbo.html

Tomtwtwtw

True, but assuming the fuel pump is up to the task anyone that wants to throw in 800cc injectors can crank the boost as high as they want. Of course, various other parts of your engine and / or transmission might not appreciate it. Now that I read up on the stock injector size, I can see why most people stop at a mild boost increase and bolt-ons. 410cc injectors will be pushing 100% duty cycle around 280-300 bhp, depending on afr and other variables of course. 600cc is probably enough for anything the stock turbo can provide, and 800cc would make for a fun turbo swap if anyone ever decided to pursue it.

ivan_baez

I ran before 300 HPs on a 2.0L jetta with 440cc injectors, did not even get close to max them out, altrough I was using a standalone computer.

bluecarbonfiber

in the Q and A it said the stock injectors were almost maxed at 12 psi and the 800cc ones they swapped on they took up to 14-15 psi and top end was 12 psi which netted close to the 228 mark at 5300rpm per there dyno, the rdx has a return fuel line so i am sure its quite possible to upgrade the fuel pressure and fuel pump to help it out.. but with a t28 turbo you can only do so much before its max my guess is around the 300 mark

Tomtwtwtw

Aren't the VW 2.0t engines direct injection?

ivan_baez

The TFSI, TSI are, but mine was an old 2slow engine, 8 valve, standard fuel injection...

ivan_baez

today I'm gonna make the tests in the road... there are not so much cars outside on a sunday morning.

ivan_baez

Took the RDX for a drive to the highway... shifts at 6500 for both D and S modes... it seems it needs to be reflashed.

Tomtwtwtw

Were you still letting it shift automatically in S mode or using the paddles?

ivan_baez

I let it o the shifting, no manual.

Why?, it only works on manual?, the hondata page says "S" mode.

bluecarbonfiber

the redline is raised only in S mode so thats the sport mode and using the paddle shifters

Tomtwtwtw

This...basically Hondata just raises the rev-limiter, but it does not change the transmission's pre-programmed shift points, so left to its own devices it will still shift normal.

Although this brings me to another thought - I am curious if there is a way to speed up the response to paddle inputs through software. The delay, especially in a 1-2 shift, is just terrible. I assume this requires access to the transmission tuning as opposed to engine tuning, which is another animal.

I have no issues with the way it shifts, only in the time it takes between me tapping a paddle the shift taking place. I feel like I can spend that time more productively than just waiting for 2nd gear to engage. Maybe I dial up Netflix and catch up on Archer.

bluecarbonfiber

that kinda goes back the to tq converter and its stall speeds and what not.. no one has yet been able to change the actual shift points on the acura tranny you figure that out and youll be a millionare.. but the tq convert with change in stall speeds would help with the delay alitter plus get you off the line quicker

ivan_baez

Hi,

I got back the ECU from Hondata with the reflash and now shifts at 7250RPM in manual mode, also measured the boost and holds it between 12-13psi after the 15psi peak so it does feel noticeably faster.

However, there is something weird when I slam the pedal hard while going cruising, mostly at first gear, the RDX wobbles badly 2 or 3 times when the turbo starts to kick in and then it goes okay. I thought at first that the traction control was kicking in because it felt like it, but I disabled the VSA and does the same.

Any idea on what could it be?, is there any sort of calibration (i.e. throttle body or any other sensor/actuator) I would need to perform after firmware or hondata flash SW has been updated?

Thanks in advance for your feedback.

Take care,

ivan_baez

...if I do not slam the accelerator hard this wobble thing does not happen, the RDX just drives normally

wspy

Explain that 'wobble' more. What exactly is wobbling?

bluecarbonfiber

ya i dont get the wobble you are saying.. wobble to me seems like a tire issue or something

ivan_baez

Pardon my english, I thought I was using the righ word...

What happens is that when you are going cruising and suddenly slam all the pedal to the metal the vehicle responds as if you are trying to take off from a stop on a manual car in 5th gear or so.

This is momentarily only, and happens mostly on 1st gear. It seems to happen when the turbo is kicking in, once it kicks in the RDX pulls strong.

BU

"wobbles"
Could you be hitting the rev. Limiter ?

Papachristos.James

No wobbles here, never felt any wobbling? Could be...your wheels need balancing?
I am almost certain its not your engine or turbo, considering the first gen RDX's were literally second best, if not; the best quality built Acura in the prior lineup.

bluecarbonfiber

sounds to me like youre trying to say that its lagging for a second then the power kicks in and goes?

ivan_baez

ok, I seached on the web for this behavior and I think the correct statement would be:

The RDX lurches 2-3 times (short lurches, but hard) when I give it full gas and the turbo is kicking in, once it fully kicks in the vehicle runs strong and does not lurch anymore, even between shifts.

I'm not hitting the rev limiter at this time, since the engine is cruising betweekn 2k-4k RPM when this happens.

ivan_baez

all 2-3 lurches take probably a total of 2-3 seconds, but shakes badly and it did not do it before. I replaced the spark plugs already, but behaves the same.

thanks for your help guys.

Papachristos.James

On a side note; is it bad that I achieved a peak boost of 21-22psi?? LOL -_-

bluecarbonfiber

hmm kinda sounds like the boost builds up then takes off.. which is called the turbo lag.. not sure why it would shake while doing it.. i know you are running a US ecu in a mexico rdx so maybe something different in the mexico version?? maybe the engine joints arent as stiff?? who knows.. to help with the turbo lag though you need better flowing parts.. a downpipe will help the spool time

protoRDX

What was the outside temp when you experienced this problem?
Looks like a "limp mode" when you stay in traffic and its +30 C or higher outside.

ivan_baez

it is not turbo lag definetly, I had many turbo cars and this is weird...

I had the ECU scanned today and it has an erro code : P0007, which stands for "Fuel Shutoff Valve "A" Control Circuit High". I do not know if this is the problem, but don't want any CELs..

I have looked for information on this code but there is not much. Anyone has removed the fuel pump from its RDX?, it seems this solenoid or valve is located in the fuel pump assy.

Ill try to install the previous ECM, just to discard is an issue related with the swap.could it be a difference on the ECM pinout for this?

thanks for your feedback.

ivan_baez

anyone has the ECU pinout for the RDX?

bluecarbonfiber

i have the 2010 rdx shop manual i am sure it has the pin out in it but not sure if its going to be the same for an 07

ivan_baez

if you can post the pin out and the shop manual cover so I can get one for future stuff I will really appreciate it. where did you get if from?

wspy

Your in-tank fuel filter (sock) may be clogged. Check in the tank. It sounds like some form of fuel starvation at initial throttle input that is causing the hesitation (wobble/bucking).

ivan_baez

that is something I can review, it does feel like a momentary problem with fuel starvation or excess.

does enayone have a procedure to remove the fuel pump?

ivan_baez

any updates on this (computer pin diagram and fuel pump removal procedure)?, may work on the vehicle this weekend.

bluecarbonfiber

i have the removal procedure but dont have the space to upload.. so not sure how i can post it unless a mod has an area i can upload the whole book?