gilgameshx

I need help with my A/C not working. Whenever I turn on the A/C no air blows at all. I hear the fan running in the beginning then it stops after about 2 seconds into it. No air comes out of the vents. The A/C displays everything normally like the temperature range, if it's on Full, which vents it's being blown, etc. I checked that plug that some people on these forums say that gets burnt and it looks fine. I unplugged it and try to turn the A/C on again and the same problem persists. I tried hitting the blower, I checked all my fuses that relates to the A/C unit, fans, etc. and didn't find any blown fuses.

This started happening about 2 days ago. My A/C was working fine during the day and night. I went to a restaurant that night, came back to my car, and turned on my a/c and nothing was blowing.

I had a few problems earlier before all this happened.

First my car had a rough idle during the second startup, usually if I go out to eat somewhere or shop at a grocery store. Whenever I would start it up a second time during the day. It would die out on me if I gas it but if I managed to get it moving it won't die. My mechanic took a look at the problem and he found some misfiring. We changed the spark plugs, cleaned the fuel injection, cleaned the egr valve, and the problem still persist.

Finally we found out that my radiator fan on the driver side wasn't spinning properly, so I had that replaced. Surprisingly, my mechanic looked at my radiator cap and the inside was eaten away maybe it melted or something. So I ended up getting that replaced. So far my car's rough idle doesn't happen anymore or not as badly as it did.

Anyway, about 2 weeks after changing my radiator fan my A/C stopped working. Earlier before I had problems with my A/C not being able to control the temperature without having to turn it to the heater first. My mechanic checked the blower and he says that there's no ground running through it. But the blower is not broken, so he thinks it has to do with the center console controlling the A/C unit that has a malfunction.

Does anyone have any idea what's going on with my car?
It's a 2000 3.2TL with 59,000+ miles on it.

gilgameshx

BTW, here's that part that everyone is talking about. Does anyone know if there's something wrong with it?

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m..._7956Large.jpg

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m..._7955Large.jpg

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m..._7954Large.jpg

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m..._7953Large.jpg

speedemon90

same thing happened to me, and ive been running without a/c for like a year. I went to the dealer and they were checking things out, i forgot exactly what they said, but they said they found one problem that will cost about $300 but they arent sure if fixing that will fix the a/c so we just took the car and left.

fsttyms1

Does the fan blow air when not on AC and on something like vent or floor?

gilgameshx

Well as soon as I turn the A/C on you hear the fan running, then it stops. There's a slight breeze of warm air coming from the bottom when that happens. After that nothing else.

ACURA`TL`TYPE-$

I have the same problem just today it happened to me, and on top of that 5 days ago i had the problem with the AC blowing even when i turn it off and now it doesn't work at all.
Anyone know what to do?

gilgameshx

I just changed the transistor assembly about 2 weeks ago and the a/c is now working again. I guess the fuse in that assembly must have been blown. I called my local acura dealership and they wanted to charge me $69+tax. Instead I went to www.acuraoemparts.com bought the same product for $49 about. The product came within 3 days from Florida to Hawaii. It was really easy to install, just take out the old assembly and replace the new one in. Hopefully this help some people with blower problems.

I think the fuse might have blown due to setting the A/C on Full and/or changing the heater/cold too fast.

ACURA`TL`TYPE-$

I just had my mechanic check the fuses said the were all fine. so iono if its the fuse, or am i wrong?

womey

iTrader: (3)

Also, the blower motor sub-harness is an easy part to replace and is around $20 from the dealer. I'd try that TL Type $ before I replace the transistor. Mine went bad about a month ago and after removing it I could see why (rubber was peeled off and copper was exposed. Look up "TSB 06-006" on google and you'll be able to get all of the details.

gilgameshx

The fuse that I am talking about is not in any of the fuse boxes. It's located on the circuit board in the transistor assembly. The fuse can't seem to be replaced without having to replace the transistor assembly. You could ask your mechanic to see if he could get the blower working, I forgot what my mechanic told me he said something about the ground to the blower isn't going through. So he managed to get the blower to turn on by giving it ground. Then I assumed that the blower is working and that the transistor assembly was the culprit.

ACURA`TL`TYPE-$

Do u remember where the transistor was? is it in the dash? or somewhere behind the fuse box? iono i am getting really lost and pissed off cause now my mirrors dnt work and heat seat are out also and its not the fuses i just dnt want to go and change all the fuse boxes and still have the problem.

DIRTYSOUTH_TYPE-S

Hey man the blower transistor is underneath the passenger dash, its on the underside of the blower. It's a piece of metal with two screws on each end, you just unscrew the screws and the transistor assembly will come out.
Really simple DIY.

I had this same issue at 70k.

ABClaypool

where is this said metal piece? the only thing i took out was the glove box. Do i need to take out more to get to this piece?

ACURA`TL`TYPE-$

thnks man i am about to check it out.

gilgameshx

Read this quote
You don't have to take out the glove box. Just move the passenger seat all the way to the back. Look upside down below the glove box, you'll see the blower which is black. You will see some wires connected to it and to the transistor assembly which has 2 screw connected to it. Unscrew that and unplug the wiring that's connected to it. If you still don't know what it looks like, look at the pictures I posted on my 2nd post.

I suggest you find a way to see if your blower still works before you decide to replace the transistor assembly.

ACURA`TL`TYPE-$

so i got the little white thingy (dnt knwo the name) when i replaced it and turned the ac on i heard a little click/pop sound and some smoke came out of my vent. So i am lost and confused what the fck happened. any ideas?

fsttyms1

Post pics of what your replaced.

Did you check the connector to the blower motor to see if it was melted?

Kevin Briggs

Well, my blower motor isn't happy either. I pulled the glove box and radio out. I disconnected and reconnected the relays and transistor. Seems to be working now. To replace the blower motor is $960 labor + $300 for new motor. All the tests pointed to the blower motor failure.

I noticed that the female connectors were copper and the relays were steel. That can be a battery if you and water. I had an issue with my suburban with the right side window not working on the passenger side with that switch. I used Radio Shack contact cleaner to clean the contacts. It now works fine. Copper has a bad habit of causing problems. I'm going to use the cleaner on the sockets before closing it up.

The glove box has some issues with the cable on the top that needs to be disconnected. Watch out for it. the white piece can come out of the metal. I pulled all the screws out with a stubby screw driver.

The high side relay has the yellow/ black wire and blue /red wires in the same connector with two other wires.. It also has a screw that holds it to the side of the blower assembly. You get at it from under/through the glove box. The transistor is there also with the same colored wires with another wire for the center pin of the transistor. If you find the high speed relay , with the screw mounting it to the side of the of the assembly, and short between the yellow/black and blue /red wire should cause the blower motor to run full high. Check the voltage on the yellow /black wire to ground and see if the two fuses and ignition switch is working properly with +12V. I did this and smacked the dash. It didn't work. I put the high side relay back it and tried it out of frustration. It was worked ever since.

I'll leave more updates later.

speedemon90

So basically through some research of this i learned that either there is a problem with the transistor or the sub harness right? So should i only replace the transistor and see if it works or replace the sub harness. Also is there anyway of telling the transistor is bad by looking at it. Also is the transistor the whit plastic thing that is held by two screws and has two wires going into it?

speedemon90

anybody????

o2blance

I just fixed my AC in about 1.5 hours using the information gained from this thread. Thanks to all for posting info!

To potentially help others, here is what I did.

1. Checked the transistor plate. It's a white plate that is easily visible under the passenger side of the dash. It is easily removed with 2 screws. You can carefully separate the white plastic from the metal and get a good look at the circuit board. The fuse is labeled and with a flashlight you can inspect it. Mine was fine. So transistor plate wasn't it.

2. Checked the other connection which is near the passenger kick panel. Its essentially opposite of the transistor plate. You can't miss it. I pulled it out and found some corrosion and some heat build up that melted a little of the plastic. I cleaned all that up and polished both the male and female connectors. Hooked it all back up but no dice. Still not blowing.

3. I removed the blower fan for inspection. It drops with three bolts that are easy to see on the housing. Once that is out it is essentially two parts: blower motor and a plastic fan. Remove the nut that holds the fan on. This will allow you to inspect the blower. Mine was covered in dust from the electromagnetic motor spinning and wearing down a bit. I spent 10 minutes blowing that sucker clean with an air compressor. An amazing amount of crap came out of there including long strands of fibers and tons of dust. I'm convinced it was gumming things up and preventing clean electrical transmission. Wear a mask, the dust is super fine and irritating. I cleaned up the fan and reassembled it. Then I popped it back in the car, rechecked all connections, and turned on the car. Bingo, everything's working. At least for now.

Total cost 1.5 hours of time and $0.

Might be worth trying before replacing anything. Especially the blower motor which is a couple hundred bucks. Hope this helps.

tl99sincere

i had the same problem,nothing happening wit ac. so i switched the subharness and blower motor and now as soon as i turn the key my ac starts blowing hot!! wat did i do?? help

ANC297

iTrader: (2)

Are the dials turned to cold? Do you turn the unit off before you shut the car down?
Try unplugging every single wire harness going to the ac unit under the passenger dash, and then plugging back in. This worked for me when my unit was on but did not blow at all.

speedemon90

Mine works, all the things that were changed include the subharness, transistor and fuse

tl99sincere

update: so it ended up being the transitor quick fix ....And we have cold air!!!

ating02

*Bump*

I am having an issue where the fan won't shut off. I've had to pull the fuse to shut down but it's starting to get cold.

Through my research, I am thinking that the issue is the blower motor resistor.

I've found this site that doesn't have many details.
http://www.2carpros.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=366042

Wanted to get others thoughts? If this is the issue, I think I can fix it on my own but want confirmation before going to the dealer for the part.

Thanks...

drboyer

Thanks everyone for the info. I spent good time and money installing a Blower Motor Subharness: P/N 04321-S0K-A00
as outlline in Acura TSB 06-006 which did not work. I wish I had found this site sooner. Anyway, for those too cheap (like me) to buy a new transistor or you want a 30 minute way to confirm it is the resistor, use this link http://www..com/showthread.php?t=2041582. I didnt have any 1 ohm resisitors layin' around so I just jumpered it with a piece of wire. Hooked it back up and the fan starting working! I do plan to buy a new transistor next time I'm at the Acura dealership though. Hope this helps.

drboyer

The link on my last post didn't go through. Competition I guess. The jumper is soldiered on the posts for the defective thermistor. Google "DIY- How to Fix, AC power transistor" for more info.

Vman159

so how hard is it. I am 17 and dont know much about cars.... if that helps any

kjprettyboi

I took my 05 tl today to the shop, and he told me that i needed a new resisistor. Once he placed it on my car he then said that its my control unit gone bad...im assuming my cables and conectors aren't hurt..but i would love to know if this sounds right? Be fore i spend 220 on a used gps module? Help me out please..

3.2TLc

Welcome Kjprettyboi !!!
Try the 3rd Gen forum ('04>'08) TL for more precise and better response.

This is the 2nd Gen's forum, we have issues with the blower motor's wiring harness connector going bad. Ya may wanna check that first. If the resistor pack is bad, the high-low speed range won't function properly. Have ya tried running the climate control's self diagnostic feature ? Might help isolate the problem area. Good luck !!!