RV6 V3 J-Pipe Install DIY and Dyno
05-04-2010, 10:08 PM
#1
Chapter Leader (Central Florida)
Thread Starter
RV6 V3 J-Pipe Install DIY and Dyno
Ok guys so I finally got the time to dyno and install my RV6 V3 J-Pipe.
Install:
There are a total of 9 nuts to remove, 3 per pre-cat and 3 on the third cat.
Front Precat
Rear Precat
Third Cat
Once all nuts are removed, jiggle that pipe around until its lose, remove the hanger (sorry forgot to take a picture, but its self explanatory)
The install of the new pipe is simply to reverse the previous steps.
When done the pipe should look like this:
Now trim the plastic heat shield so it looks like this:
Look at this sucker!! :
Driving impressions:
As a background, my car is a 2007 TL Type-S with a 5 speed Automatic Transmission. The power train is completely stock apart from a mid-muffler delete.
The mid range torque is fantastic. I feel the transmission downshifting less when passing or increasing speed. The top end makes traction even harder to find! It feels fantastic!
Sound:
While driving normally (and by normally I mean quiet “Ive got a client in the car so don’t wanna be an ass” driving) there is little to no change in volume. In fact with the radio up I wasn’t able to hear much at all.
This all changes when you go WOT. WOOOOWWW!!! The sound is fantastic. Deep and throaty, and absolutely no rasp at all!
As promised, I did dyno my car both before and after on a mustang AWD dyno.
Pre J-Pipe HP topped out at 225 (mustang dynos read low).
Post J-Pipe HP topped out at 237.
The mid range was substantially raised by 10-15 hp throughout.
Of note, the ECU requires time to ‘learn’ new modifications and since I really believe that this system can gain more, I will re-dyno the vehicle again next week.
Since the J-Pipe gained the same as on Richie’s TL I don’t feel the need to post dyno charts unless someone really wants me to.
See: https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...91&postcount=1
Please feel free to ask any questions!
Install:
There are a total of 9 nuts to remove, 3 per pre-cat and 3 on the third cat.
Front Precat
Rear Precat
Third Cat
Once all nuts are removed, jiggle that pipe around until its lose, remove the hanger (sorry forgot to take a picture, but its self explanatory)
The install of the new pipe is simply to reverse the previous steps.
When done the pipe should look like this:
Now trim the plastic heat shield so it looks like this:
Look at this sucker!! :
Driving impressions:
As a background, my car is a 2007 TL Type-S with a 5 speed Automatic Transmission. The power train is completely stock apart from a mid-muffler delete.
The mid range torque is fantastic. I feel the transmission downshifting less when passing or increasing speed. The top end makes traction even harder to find! It feels fantastic!
Sound:
While driving normally (and by normally I mean quiet “Ive got a client in the car so don’t wanna be an ass” driving) there is little to no change in volume. In fact with the radio up I wasn’t able to hear much at all.
This all changes when you go WOT. WOOOOWWW!!! The sound is fantastic. Deep and throaty, and absolutely no rasp at all!
As promised, I did dyno my car both before and after on a mustang AWD dyno.
Pre J-Pipe HP topped out at 225 (mustang dynos read low).
Post J-Pipe HP topped out at 237.
The mid range was substantially raised by 10-15 hp throughout.
Of note, the ECU requires time to ‘learn’ new modifications and since I really believe that this system can gain more, I will re-dyno the vehicle again next week.
Since the J-Pipe gained the same as on Richie’s TL I don’t feel the need to post dyno charts unless someone really wants me to.
See: https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...91&postcount=1
Please feel free to ask any questions!
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Schabo (01-14-2024)
05-05-2010, 07:03 AM
#5
Chapter Leader (Central Florida)
Thread Starter
DO NOT USE AIR TOOLS. The nuts on the pre-cats are on studs, not bolts. If you break a stud you will have to remove the pre-cats to replace it!
Do it at home when the car is ice cold. If you cant get the nuts off without applying crazy pressure, take it to a shop and have them use an Oxyacetylene Torch to heat the nuts and remove them.
05-05-2010, 07:56 AM
#7
contemplating future mods
iTrader: (4)
Mine should be delivered by Friday. I read earlier that the gains on our Type-S would be better then the base TL but it looks like you are getting the same numbers... but they are still great numbers to get.
Have you notice any differences/changes during a "break in period?"
Are you geting the exhaust smell more after the install?
What was the total install time? 1 hr.???
Have you notice any differences/changes during a "break in period?"
Are you geting the exhaust smell more after the install?
What was the total install time? 1 hr.???
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05-05-2010, 08:48 AM
#9
Chapter Leader (Central Florida)
Thread Starter
N.O.6sped-
Dyno charts and video will be up after I get home from work.
Morrissey-
The pipe WILL get better numbers on a TL-S than a TL. However when Richie did his pulls he gave the ECU time to relearn by driving around some on the new pipe. I installed the pipe and 2 minutes later was doing pulls! So the fact it made that much power is pretty good. I can say that the drive this morning to work it felt even better than it did last night, the sound even smoothed out a touch more. I WILL re-dyno either this weekend or next week and I expect the gains to be higher.
As for smell I sprayed the whole pipe down with brake cleaner before installing so I only had smell for a short time during my dyno runs but havent smelled anything since.
Install time was about 45 mins using a torch.
Dyno charts and video will be up after I get home from work.
Morrissey-
The pipe WILL get better numbers on a TL-S than a TL. However when Richie did his pulls he gave the ECU time to relearn by driving around some on the new pipe. I installed the pipe and 2 minutes later was doing pulls! So the fact it made that much power is pretty good. I can say that the drive this morning to work it felt even better than it did last night, the sound even smoothed out a touch more. I WILL re-dyno either this weekend or next week and I expect the gains to be higher.
As for smell I sprayed the whole pipe down with brake cleaner before installing so I only had smell for a short time during my dyno runs but havent smelled anything since.
Install time was about 45 mins using a torch.
05-05-2010, 08:53 AM
#11
All motor
Great gains!!!! ^^ I 2nd that, please post the graph!
So far as more gains for the Type S, yes there should be because of the larger displacement. However, this was done on a Mustang dyno and Richie's was not. To compare the numbers from X dyno to another X dyno in different areas on different days is tough enough, not to mention a completely different dyno.
Honestly, 12whp on a Mustang dyno is probably 16-18whp on a Dynojet. 12whp on a STOCK TL or TL-s is a ridiculous number for just the Jpipe. With this J/E/PCDs, you are looking at a 30-35whp combo...
So far as more gains for the Type S, yes there should be because of the larger displacement. However, this was done on a Mustang dyno and Richie's was not. To compare the numbers from X dyno to another X dyno in different areas on different days is tough enough, not to mention a completely different dyno.
Honestly, 12whp on a Mustang dyno is probably 16-18whp on a Dynojet. 12whp on a STOCK TL or TL-s is a ridiculous number for just the Jpipe. With this J/E/PCDs, you are looking at a 30-35whp combo...
05-05-2010, 09:01 AM
#12
Chapter Leader (Central Florida)
Thread Starter
Morrissey-
Brake cleaner is a very agressive cleaning agent that takes any residue left over from the fabrication process off (and that is mostly what smells!)
Sonnick-
My dyno was done on the EXACT same dyno as Richies.
And you are right about the Mustang dyno, it reads about 11% lower than a Dyno Jet (the "standard" dyno).
Brake cleaner is a very agressive cleaning agent that takes any residue left over from the fabrication process off (and that is mostly what smells!)
Sonnick-
My dyno was done on the EXACT same dyno as Richies.
And you are right about the Mustang dyno, it reads about 11% lower than a Dyno Jet (the "standard" dyno).
05-05-2010, 09:30 AM
#15
All motor
05-05-2010, 12:10 PM
#17
The bolts are all 14mm, however if they have degraded significantly (as the ones on my third cat were) you may need a 13mm.
DO NOT USE AIR TOOLS. The nuts on the pre-cats are on studs, not bolts. If you break a stud you will have to remove the pre-cats to replace it!
Do it at home when the car is ice cold. If you cant get the nuts off without applying crazy pressure, take it to a shop and have them use an Oxyacetylene Torch to heat the nuts and remove them.
DO NOT USE AIR TOOLS. The nuts on the pre-cats are on studs, not bolts. If you break a stud you will have to remove the pre-cats to replace it!
Do it at home when the car is ice cold. If you cant get the nuts off without applying crazy pressure, take it to a shop and have them use an Oxyacetylene Torch to heat the nuts and remove them.
u can use air tools, u should only use a 1/4" air ratchet though, but as always u should break it by hand first then use air. using just air to break it, the socket can slip off and u can strip the nut
05-05-2010, 12:35 PM
#19
Chapter Leader (Central Florida)
Thread Starter
I used PB and tried to break the nuts lose by hand but wasn't able to without using so much force that I was worried about breaking a stud. I'm not saying it won't work, but a torch will ensure you don't break anything!
05-05-2010, 12:49 PM
#21
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Air tools are actually better than conventional ratchets or wrenches for breaking them loose without breaking the stud due to the impact. Just don't use a huge air ratchet and keep the pressure reasonable.
05-05-2010, 12:54 PM
#22
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05-05-2010, 04:08 PM
#24
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For someone with little to no mechanical experience lol, should I attempt this by myself in my garage without a lift or anything? Or should I just take it to a shop and have them do it?
05-05-2010, 04:35 PM
#27
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (1)
I would just like to inform you all that you're killing me right now because I have both my V3 jpipe and PCD's in my garage waiting to be installed but I have to wait until Saturday to install due to time constraints.
all this hustle and bustle about it on the forums is making the wait so much harder
p.s. nice DIY
all this hustle and bustle about it on the forums is making the wait so much harder
p.s. nice DIY
05-05-2010, 04:41 PM
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05-05-2010, 05:21 PM
#29
Chapter Leader (Central Florida)
Thread Starter
There is no cat on this pipe, so no worries!
Its totally doable with a set of jack stands and the right tools. Make sure the car is completely, and I mean completely cooled. Use plenty of PB Blast, and give it time to soak in. And use a 6 point socket, not a 12 point. Take your time and be patient, those pre-cat nuts dont want to come off!
Its totally doable with a set of jack stands and the right tools. Make sure the car is completely, and I mean completely cooled. Use plenty of PB Blast, and give it time to soak in. And use a 6 point socket, not a 12 point. Take your time and be patient, those pre-cat nuts dont want to come off!
05-05-2010, 06:02 PM
#30
Chapter Leader (Central Florida)
Thread Starter
As requested!
Forgive the poor graphing on the original run, they used the OBD port to get tach readings and it didnt read very well, so we did a calibrated tach reading for the second set.
Forgive the poor graphing on the original run, they used the OBD port to get tach readings and it didnt read very well, so we did a calibrated tach reading for the second set.
05-05-2010, 08:27 PM
#33
Chapter Leader (Central Florida)
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05-05-2010, 08:53 PM
#34
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Its totally doable with a set of jack stands and the right tools. Make sure the car is completely, and I mean completely cooled. Use plenty of PB Blast, and give it time to soak in. And use a 6 point socket, not a 12 point. Take your time and be patient, those pre-cat nuts dont want to come off![/quote]
Okay cool, preciate it!
Okay cool, preciate it!
05-05-2010, 09:18 PM
#36
Chapter Leader (Central Florida)
Thread Starter
No CEL! Theres no O2 sensors on the third cat to cause one! Its smooth like butter and sounds like pure sex. Cant wait for the RV6 exhaust to compliment it!
05-06-2010, 02:10 PM
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