M-010: Putting the TL on a diet (Update Links in Post #1)
#1442
takin care of Business in
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Jeremy, he was trying to keep the TL as NA...
he tried Nitrous if I remember right, he also tried WMI....
I might shoot him an email today...
he tried Nitrous if I remember right, he also tried WMI....
I might shoot him an email today...
#1444
Do it!
And I'm wondering if anyone has a solution. I pulled my steering wheel guts out. Airbag included... But now I'm left with this huge gaping hole in my steering wheel. Looks like crap. I tried a Styrofoam block that I shaped to fit, but it squeeks every time I hit a bump. Anyone have any ideas?
And I'm wondering if anyone has a solution. I pulled my steering wheel guts out. Airbag included... But now I'm left with this huge gaping hole in my steering wheel. Looks like crap. I tried a Styrofoam block that I shaped to fit, but it squeeks every time I hit a bump. Anyone have any ideas?
#1448
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The wheels and hub should not be more than 200 bucks...with that said, Inaccurate did mention a while back that lightweight wheel is almost the same weight as the OEM steering without the airbag....
can you put some cardboard on the edges to avoid squeaking?
can you put some cardboard on the edges to avoid squeaking?
#1450
Drifting
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Do it!
And I'm wondering if anyone has a solution. I pulled my steering wheel guts out. Airbag included... But now I'm left with this huge gaping hole in my steering wheel. Looks like crap. I tried a Styrofoam block that I shaped to fit, but it squeeks every time I hit a bump. Anyone have any ideas?
And I'm wondering if anyone has a solution. I pulled my steering wheel guts out. Airbag included... But now I'm left with this huge gaping hole in my steering wheel. Looks like crap. I tried a Styrofoam block that I shaped to fit, but it squeeks every time I hit a bump. Anyone have any ideas?
#1451
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#1452
Probably lost about 6lbs... But I like the feel of the lighter wheel... The hole I don't really mind, but I believe it is illegal in CA to tamper with an airbag system... And the gaping hole in my steering wheel makes it blareingly obvious. 200 is not to bad though. I'm surprised.
#1453
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well I was looking at the NRG steering wheel since I have their seatbelt and harness....the steering wheel's were about 100-125 and the hubs were about 75-100, so yes about 200 for the whole deal
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D's Up (11-26-2015)
#1456
Do it!
And I'm wondering if anyone has a solution. I pulled my steering wheel guts out. Airbag included... But now I'm left with this huge gaping hole in my steering wheel. Looks like crap. I tried a Styrofoam block that I shaped to fit, but it squeeks every time I hit a bump. Anyone have any ideas?
And I'm wondering if anyone has a solution. I pulled my steering wheel guts out. Airbag included... But now I'm left with this huge gaping hole in my steering wheel. Looks like crap. I tried a Styrofoam block that I shaped to fit, but it squeeks every time I hit a bump. Anyone have any ideas?
Don't forget to shave all your hair off, it weighs a few grams.
#1457
I am glad to see fellow TL'ers shedding a few pounds.
As such, I feel compelled to share the following information with you.
Do Not use the Butt Dynometer to measure the performance improvements from your TL Diet.
There is a weird, inexplicable phenomenon that happens with the TL Diet. I can not explain how or why this phenomenon occurs! But from my experiences with removing weight from my car (from small chunks to big chunks), the phenomenon is real.
Let's begin by describing a Butt Dynometer. This is the amount of g-force that you feel against your human body. You just added that G-Wiz powerbooster to your car, and you take a test ride. You are judging the performance increase by if the car accelerates "harder". In other words, you are looking (feeling) for an increase in g-force against your human body during acceleration.
With the TL Diet, the OPPOSITE will occur!!! You will feel LESS g-force. You will feel less g-force during acceleration, braking, and cornering.
WTF ??? Right, this is the same reaction that I had and still do have. So, let me repeat...."I can not explain how or why this phenomenon occurs !" But to me, the phenomenon is real. This phenomenon is what I had come to love about the TL Diet and I am currently addicted to this feeling.
After removing as much weight as I have from my TL, I feel (perceive) nearly no g-forces against my body during WOT, full ABS-engaged braking, and drifting thru turns. Don't get me wrong. The car and my body are encountering a lot of g-force...but I don't feel it in the slightest. When I brake hard (near ABS engagement), I see the seat belts in the empty passenger seat fly forward and stay suspended in the air as if a ghost is holding the straps away from the seat... but I don't feel the braking force in my body. I release the brakes, the straps fall back into the seat, and I feel nothing in my body. It is a surreal experience. I have no perception of the car experiencing the g-force either. The car does not nose-dive or misbehave in any way. I have no perception that the brakes are in ABS other than the pulsing pedal. You say "perhaps your car is too light to grab the road." LOL.... nope, that is not the answer to this phenomenon. I DO see the speedometer drop like you unplugged it and I see my surrounding come to halt in a surreal fashion. I do see any loose objects in the car began to magically fly in the air. I even had to pin open my sunroof shade so that it would not slam closed from the braking. But, I have no sensation of my body being thrown forward from the braking, nor do I feel that the car is experiencing that force either. I sometimes change lanes while ABS is engaged. No problem, no drama, no stress. It feels very comfortable with no g-force disturbing your concentration.
The same applies with cornering and acceleration too. I perceive nearly no g-force. I have purposely drifted thru corners just to test the car's limits. I have no perception of the g-force. The car does not lean (no body roll) and surprising the car has no yaw (front and rear slide equally and at the sametime). I only discover that I had been slightly drifting after the tires grab again and I feel a slight shake (re-gained traction). But, I feel nothing in my body indicating the g-force and I feel nothing thru the steering wheel (not like you are abusing the car to make it corner too fast). I suppose this is what people mean when describing any light car as "toss-able".
With the two examples above, I have attempted to illustrate how you will feel less g-force with the TL Diet. So please don't use the conventional Butt Dyno to evaluate your weight-reduction mods.
Here is another interesting point to show how bewildering, perplexing and baffling that this phenomenon is. On weekends, I drive the wife's 2003 Acura RL. That car is HEAVY compared to my car. When I drive the RL, I notice the heavy weight immediately, even as I pull-out from the driveway. While driving the RL, I apply brakes and I feel the massiveness refusing to slow down. I apply throttle, and I feel the massiveness preventing the acceleration. I take a turn, and I feel like a sea captain steering a boat. Strangely, I do feel a lot of g-force compared to my car !!! I feel a lot of g-force in the RL during normal braking, normal corning, and normal acceleration. Go figure...... How in the hell does someone explain that....
This is why I am addicted to the TL Diet. I have come to love this "lack of g-force" feeling. The car will eagerly do amazing feats, and I hear myself and the car say "What?....ain't no big thing".
In conclusion, please look for a reduction in inertia when judging your TL Diet mods. Do Not look for an increase in g-force. The car should become more toss-able in turns. You should begin to wait longer before applying your brakes. And to judge the acceleration, look for how far behind the other traffic is based upon the given amount of throttle that you applied. Do not use the sensation of g-force... it won't be there... and that is a good thing.
P.S. – I see other people experiencing this phenomenon very frequently when they get the UR Pulley. Most people comment that after they installed the UR Pulley that the car does Not feel faster (Butt Dyno) but they very much notice how quickly the engine pulls thru the gears. And, they rightfully conclude that the car must be faster because the RPM raise show much quicker. This is the phenomenon manifesting itself. IMO, the gains from the UR Pulley in not from any HP gains, but instead the gains from the UR Pulley are from the loss of rotating mass.
Cheers
As such, I feel compelled to share the following information with you.
Do Not use the Butt Dynometer to measure the performance improvements from your TL Diet.
There is a weird, inexplicable phenomenon that happens with the TL Diet. I can not explain how or why this phenomenon occurs! But from my experiences with removing weight from my car (from small chunks to big chunks), the phenomenon is real.
Let's begin by describing a Butt Dynometer. This is the amount of g-force that you feel against your human body. You just added that G-Wiz powerbooster to your car, and you take a test ride. You are judging the performance increase by if the car accelerates "harder". In other words, you are looking (feeling) for an increase in g-force against your human body during acceleration.
With the TL Diet, the OPPOSITE will occur!!! You will feel LESS g-force. You will feel less g-force during acceleration, braking, and cornering.
WTF ??? Right, this is the same reaction that I had and still do have. So, let me repeat...."I can not explain how or why this phenomenon occurs !" But to me, the phenomenon is real. This phenomenon is what I had come to love about the TL Diet and I am currently addicted to this feeling.
After removing as much weight as I have from my TL, I feel (perceive) nearly no g-forces against my body during WOT, full ABS-engaged braking, and drifting thru turns. Don't get me wrong. The car and my body are encountering a lot of g-force...but I don't feel it in the slightest. When I brake hard (near ABS engagement), I see the seat belts in the empty passenger seat fly forward and stay suspended in the air as if a ghost is holding the straps away from the seat... but I don't feel the braking force in my body. I release the brakes, the straps fall back into the seat, and I feel nothing in my body. It is a surreal experience. I have no perception of the car experiencing the g-force either. The car does not nose-dive or misbehave in any way. I have no perception that the brakes are in ABS other than the pulsing pedal. You say "perhaps your car is too light to grab the road." LOL.... nope, that is not the answer to this phenomenon. I DO see the speedometer drop like you unplugged it and I see my surrounding come to halt in a surreal fashion. I do see any loose objects in the car began to magically fly in the air. I even had to pin open my sunroof shade so that it would not slam closed from the braking. But, I have no sensation of my body being thrown forward from the braking, nor do I feel that the car is experiencing that force either. I sometimes change lanes while ABS is engaged. No problem, no drama, no stress. It feels very comfortable with no g-force disturbing your concentration.
The same applies with cornering and acceleration too. I perceive nearly no g-force. I have purposely drifted thru corners just to test the car's limits. I have no perception of the g-force. The car does not lean (no body roll) and surprising the car has no yaw (front and rear slide equally and at the sametime). I only discover that I had been slightly drifting after the tires grab again and I feel a slight shake (re-gained traction). But, I feel nothing in my body indicating the g-force and I feel nothing thru the steering wheel (not like you are abusing the car to make it corner too fast). I suppose this is what people mean when describing any light car as "toss-able".
With the two examples above, I have attempted to illustrate how you will feel less g-force with the TL Diet. So please don't use the conventional Butt Dyno to evaluate your weight-reduction mods.
Here is another interesting point to show how bewildering, perplexing and baffling that this phenomenon is. On weekends, I drive the wife's 2003 Acura RL. That car is HEAVY compared to my car. When I drive the RL, I notice the heavy weight immediately, even as I pull-out from the driveway. While driving the RL, I apply brakes and I feel the massiveness refusing to slow down. I apply throttle, and I feel the massiveness preventing the acceleration. I take a turn, and I feel like a sea captain steering a boat. Strangely, I do feel a lot of g-force compared to my car !!! I feel a lot of g-force in the RL during normal braking, normal corning, and normal acceleration. Go figure...... How in the hell does someone explain that....
This is why I am addicted to the TL Diet. I have come to love this "lack of g-force" feeling. The car will eagerly do amazing feats, and I hear myself and the car say "What?....ain't no big thing".
In conclusion, please look for a reduction in inertia when judging your TL Diet mods. Do Not look for an increase in g-force. The car should become more toss-able in turns. You should begin to wait longer before applying your brakes. And to judge the acceleration, look for how far behind the other traffic is based upon the given amount of throttle that you applied. Do not use the sensation of g-force... it won't be there... and that is a good thing.
P.S. – I see other people experiencing this phenomenon very frequently when they get the UR Pulley. Most people comment that after they installed the UR Pulley that the car does Not feel faster (Butt Dyno) but they very much notice how quickly the engine pulls thru the gears. And, they rightfully conclude that the car must be faster because the RPM raise show much quicker. This is the phenomenon manifesting itself. IMO, the gains from the UR Pulley in not from any HP gains, but instead the gains from the UR Pulley are from the loss of rotating mass.
Cheers
#1458
hello
heres a cool video of real time racing. very similar to what are cars are capable of.
tsx v6. pretty similar to 4 gen TL. More so the type s automatic.would love to follow inaccurate guide to weight loss. and take it further by paying out the ass for carbon fiber hood.gut out the doors. lexan/plexi the windows.shave as much as i can from the trunk lid.i know real time racing has been gutting fwd acuras for years and frankly.... beating all their competition.a 2500lb 260whp acura tl on racing coilvers is a good bet in the twisties and road racing.i know for a fact the 2700lb 300+whp real time racing tsx v6 had fun. it won another championship while doing it and never broke down in the process.to bad inaccurate left. though i see other guys putting in that work.only thing that ever bothered me.was the unnecessary static and dynamic comparison.can you imagine the civic guys catching on to this trend.''gutted myz civic ladst weenkend brah. flush lyfe dawg. sheet weighs 1900lbs, bur u no reely dat means itds 1500lbs. cause of inertia, and myz rymz, and coilovers''.....'' cuz mhy car weighs 1500lbs and dynoz 170whp out my b18c.... really dat equates to 240hp dooood! wooo hoooo!!!!!"uhhhh no your vtakkk makes 170whp.your car with you in it weights 2100lbs.innacurate your the man. but your car made a claimed 250whp(other guys with mods similar to his made 230-240). and weighed 2760. both very good. no need for 360whp claims. a (acura tsx v6) 300whp fwd acura sedan that weighs 2700lbs before driver with a auto transmission was able to win full manufacturers championship against STEEP competitors.
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94Auto (08-02-2021)
#1459
video 2
#1460
video 3 last one i could find
#1461
cant get over a family sedan fwd v6 acura dominating like that. looks good im out. going to buy a tl in next few days im hooked. ill gut it. install suspension. post pics. buy every bolt on that i can install myself. gut car some more. post pics. save for lexan and plexi. take to track. post video. the siccness is alive.
#1463
acura tl type s.... automatic
after extensive searching and a wasted 400 mile trip to meet a seller who recently got better potential offers. (hope he gets shanked) ive come to find the 6mt tl type s is not a cheap car. not matter what condition unless non driving anndd neither is the 6mt 2004-2006 tl. im very not suprised actually. tl's especially manual have been keeping their value pretty well. in reality the acura tl especially manual has great potential as such heres what'll be. 2007 tl type s autotragic. sell for 11,000. 90,000 miles. documented fender bender. will be gutting. will let wife daily drive for a few months as i see what condition engine/transmission/suspension is. and will have some much needed maintenance done. will be a full bolt on car. i wont be doing the work myself. ive seen some autotragic tl type s hit 290-300+ fwhp with full bolt on including manifold and TB. on this forum actually i'm not to rich. i am well to do but my family including my parents and wifes mom all leech off me. as such this project will take me at least two years. i do not wish to start my own thread. i will update here at least every 6 months. when is all done there will be extensive videos of me playing. acura tl type s. automatic.....autotragic...................(all joking aside tbh in my opinion this isnt the worse automatic around, rev matches and actually selects gears and holds them. if you want to experience a sheeet automatic i suggest 2006-2013 lexus is350) my goal is high 2700lbs to low 2800lbs without driver. fully upgraded suspension suited for city and every other day driving. full bolt on. hope we keep the gutted tl alive. for the money. a gutted fwd v6 acura with full bolt ons is pretty miraculous. i wish i could find video of World Challenge acura tsx v6 real time racing. those things were road racing pure breds. here are some pics. so much sheet to remove.
#1465
holy holiday balls. glad to see your still around. i thought for sure the tl community lost you to ''radio controlled hovering devices''hehe. they can be fun for awhile i guess. any chance your saving up for a acura tl type s 6mt/auto-or-tl sh awd 6mt/auto????? would love to see you gut out (like real time racings been gutting Acuras two decades) one of those bad boys. you should attempt to contact peter from real time racing..../ he's on facebook-he'd get a kick out of your "TL Diet". You might even have some weight savings tips he could use??? not sure though as he run a TLX AWD now that weighs over 3000 pounds and turbo. ---i hope you stick around??? And pick up a new project... If i was rich i'd pay you to come help me start my Tl type s project. (**** -my wife**** '' oh my gawd what the f&^k are you doing. Why are you ripping your new car up you weirdo!!!!" ***-me*** '' Because race car?'') LOL
#1467
yeah i should. unfortunately i think you would be the only presrciber. thought i'd hop on and try and keep inaccurates momentum going. i tried creating a thread on "that other honda forum". ---got laughed out. FORUM MOD FEEL FREE TO DELETE MY PREVIOUS POSTS HERE. If anyone would like to see my build p.m. me. Going for 2800 pound 300whp automatic type S.
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rockstar143 (12-07-2015)
#1468
Safety Car
Thread Starter
facurate,
Thank for the warm welcome
Please let me know if there is something I can help you with. But, no more race car for me. I am burnt-out on racing. My new ride is a black-on-black (and dark tint windows) 2015 Civic Coupe. Loving the CVT too (for real).
Thank for the warm welcome
Please let me know if there is something I can help you with. But, no more race car for me. I am burnt-out on racing. My new ride is a black-on-black (and dark tint windows) 2015 Civic Coupe. Loving the CVT too (for real).
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rockstar143 (12-07-2015)
#1469
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
iTrader: (6)
Tim...I wonder how fast the civic would be when you lighten it up to 1700 pounds.
Honestly, I can totally understand being comfortable though and getting 35 mpg. I hope you didn't dump the TL though, you lighting up some of those big displacement cars are what put smiles on my face!
Facurate...make the thread, man...I guarantee you people will chime in and give tips and take advice, that's what makes this forum awesome! :gheyhug:
Honestly, I can totally understand being comfortable though and getting 35 mpg. I hope you didn't dump the TL though, you lighting up some of those big displacement cars are what put smiles on my face!
Facurate...make the thread, man...I guarantee you people will chime in and give tips and take advice, that's what makes this forum awesome! :gheyhug:
#1470
This forum isn't so good at giving tips, especially on building race cars. Any other car forum would be better, I know from experience. This site is only for beginners in car modding.
#1471
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
iTrader: (6)
That hasn't been my experience at all. If you're looking for very specific information about a particular topic, I could see you not finding what you're looking for...or maybe you don't know where to look or who to ask.
Beginners at what? Car detailing? Electrical? Maintenance? Stereo? Suspension? Fitment? Troubleshooting issues? Performance upgrades?
Beginners at what? Car detailing? Electrical? Maintenance? Stereo? Suspension? Fitment? Troubleshooting issues? Performance upgrades?
#1473
This thread inspired me. Love y'all. I'm starting my weight reductions too. Not too extreme but somewhat decent.
I got rid of all the clutter, gutted the trunk liner, removed the spare, and now am going lightweight battery because my current battery is about to die. OEM battery is close to 50. I'm looking at the heaviest braille battery - B3121:
https://www.braillebattery.com/index...ightweight_agm
It should hold a charge longer then OEM and I should save 25lbs, correct? Any other downsides I should know about?
I got rid of all the clutter, gutted the trunk liner, removed the spare, and now am going lightweight battery because my current battery is about to die. OEM battery is close to 50. I'm looking at the heaviest braille battery - B3121:
https://www.braillebattery.com/index...ightweight_agm
It should hold a charge longer then OEM and I should save 25lbs, correct? Any other downsides I should know about?
#1476
#1477
code name RTR
Me on My look at this mighty big ol' thread you got going on here.
I might just be on here for this one time only post to give you a shout out.
I'm usually to busy in hollow metal shells that scream at me. Tinkering and wrenching trying to make them scream consecutively to the next hot h-e-l-l.
i guess i can share a few specs with this community. Your pretty close to what some folks raced back in the day there inaccurate.
Course now its all about a certain awd TLX. And from these last few pages i read it appears you've given up the hobby. Maybe i'm to late to give praise.
I racer x was notified back at the end of 2015 from a member on this acurazine about a certain fellow who had been putting his (Accord/TL/TSX or what have you) on a diet. \
We might have been doing that for awhile or maybe not.All i know is Some v6 fwd sedans were taking down Detroit iron and German snowmobiles even setting course records.
Winning manufacture championships in fwd sedans no less is something to behold. 2012-2013 were good years for fwd v6 sohc sedans.
Inacurate i hope you get back into making fwd sedans real real real light again. Its a neat hobby. The TL and TSX had very similar geometry one was better made in japan overall, but 'overall' it's splitting hairs. I checked out 'some'(there is a lot) of the stuff you did to lighten your vehicle. On par.
here are some specs people usually never share....tsk tsk tsk.
you folks keep it up. what some people raced can be made for the streets fairly easy.
Tis the beauty of ACURA. Here are the specs for a 2012 tsx manufacture winning race car. Not sure if you can even find this info anymore. If it was ever released it would have been straight from RTR. Enjoy.
As far as losing 500 lbs from a TSX/TL. Just follow the TL DIET.
gone racing
specs
tsx 2.4 manual
remove 500 lbs and swap in 3.5-liter, transverse-mounted Acura J35Z3 V6 min required weight with driver 2950. Non sanctioned 27XX with driver
engine specs
Mahle 12.5:1 compression pistons, HPD valve springs and Carillo connecting rods
Motec engine management.
custom exhaust (similar to whats on the market now in racing versions- i.e no cats)
Xtrac 426 6speed gear/tilton flywheel and clutch (I'd think a 6mt would be sufficient for street use.)
chassis
Acura steel unibody w/RTR prep
steel tube roll cage
RTR carbon-kevlar hood/ trunk
Carbon-kevlar-aluminum honeycomb matrix side-impact protection
RTR carbon fiber front splitter, console and rear wing
Sparco seat, belts, and steering wheel with quick release
Brembos and ap pedal box
suspension (you ready for this)
Oem tsx suspension with!!! /
custom front upper and lower control arm
custom rear multi link
adjustable front and rear anti roll bars
penske racing shocks with eibach springs
275 pirelli race slicks all around.
I might just be on here for this one time only post to give you a shout out.
I'm usually to busy in hollow metal shells that scream at me. Tinkering and wrenching trying to make them scream consecutively to the next hot h-e-l-l.
i guess i can share a few specs with this community. Your pretty close to what some folks raced back in the day there inaccurate.
Course now its all about a certain awd TLX. And from these last few pages i read it appears you've given up the hobby. Maybe i'm to late to give praise.
I racer x was notified back at the end of 2015 from a member on this acurazine about a certain fellow who had been putting his (Accord/TL/TSX or what have you) on a diet. \
We might have been doing that for awhile or maybe not.All i know is Some v6 fwd sedans were taking down Detroit iron and German snowmobiles even setting course records.
Winning manufacture championships in fwd sedans no less is something to behold. 2012-2013 were good years for fwd v6 sohc sedans.
Inacurate i hope you get back into making fwd sedans real real real light again. Its a neat hobby. The TL and TSX had very similar geometry one was better made in japan overall, but 'overall' it's splitting hairs. I checked out 'some'(there is a lot) of the stuff you did to lighten your vehicle. On par.
here are some specs people usually never share....tsk tsk tsk.
you folks keep it up. what some people raced can be made for the streets fairly easy.
Tis the beauty of ACURA. Here are the specs for a 2012 tsx manufacture winning race car. Not sure if you can even find this info anymore. If it was ever released it would have been straight from RTR. Enjoy.
As far as losing 500 lbs from a TSX/TL. Just follow the TL DIET.
gone racing
specs
tsx 2.4 manual
remove 500 lbs and swap in 3.5-liter, transverse-mounted Acura J35Z3 V6 min required weight with driver 2950. Non sanctioned 27XX with driver
engine specs
Mahle 12.5:1 compression pistons, HPD valve springs and Carillo connecting rods
Motec engine management.
custom exhaust (similar to whats on the market now in racing versions- i.e no cats)
Xtrac 426 6speed gear/tilton flywheel and clutch (I'd think a 6mt would be sufficient for street use.)
chassis
Acura steel unibody w/RTR prep
steel tube roll cage
RTR carbon-kevlar hood/ trunk
Carbon-kevlar-aluminum honeycomb matrix side-impact protection
RTR carbon fiber front splitter, console and rear wing
Sparco seat, belts, and steering wheel with quick release
Brembos and ap pedal box
suspension (you ready for this)
Oem tsx suspension with!!! /
custom front upper and lower control arm
custom rear multi link
adjustable front and rear anti roll bars
penske racing shocks with eibach springs
275 pirelli race slicks all around.
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2.2Lude (01-07-2023)
#1478
Villo169's build or my CL track/autocross builds are more in line with yours than this street driven autotragic build, plus this is dead.
There is also an accord track car on V6p with nice build used for time attack.
There is also an accord track car on V6p with nice build used for time attack.
#1479
[In the pic below] The nuts (GREEN arrows from above pic) are located in the location highlighted by the RED arrows in the pic below. To reach the nuts, lay on your back and crawl under the front of the car (close to the front license plate area). You should be able to reach your arm up into this area shown with the GREEN arrows. You will be reaching up along the front of the AC condenser (aka, "radiator"). Be careful to NOT touch the "radiator" fins. They bend super easily.
The green arrows in the pic below are somewhat misleading. The arrows in the pic travel in front of the bumper. You arm will be BEHIND the bumper. That is, your arm will be reaching upward between the bumper and the "radiator".
Also, use a box-in wrench. There is probably not much room to "swing" a ratchet. I think you need a 12mm wrench for the nuts.
[/QUOTE]
I tried to remove the front dampener today but i think the correct size for a wrench or socket is 14mm for the top bolt not 12mm. My bolts were too rusty/tight so i couldnt do it without damaging the radiator (not much room for hands either) is there a way to remove the front cover without having to remove the whole bumper so i can have better access?
#1480
Was able to finally remove the front damper (my abs hurt haha) im looking at the trunk liner now. So far ive removed the spare tire with the tool and the floor mat/liner on top of it. Thinking of removing the rest of the liner on the side / rear and above. What i would like to know if its gonna affect the noise level in the car and what about humidity? Winter in Quebec is pretty intense and i was wondering if the liner also has the function of absorbing the moisture in the trunk thus removing it will increase the chance of having rust and broken electronics? Im the kind of guy in a hurry in the morning who will throw his shovel and snow brush in the trunk before removing the snow on it...
Last edited by Ibis; 06-24-2017 at 11:46 AM.
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