Average clutch replacement labor on 07 Tl-s?
04-18-2012, 11:49 AM
#1
Average clutch replacement labor on 07 Tl-s?
What's up acurazine. I'm wondering what kind of special tools are needed to tackle this DIY ? I've done b-series/ k-series clutch before but haven't done any Tls.. I've called a few shops and most quoted me 600-450$ labor if I bring my own parts ( 1 day to complete ) . Does this seem reasonable ? I have access to lifts/air tools but wouldn't want to risk messing up o_O
Anyone know good clutch kits ? Or websites to buy from?
Anyone know good clutch kits ? Or websites to buy from?
04-18-2012, 12:21 PM
#5
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I was told by a Honda tech that no matter what to replace the flywheel because if you don't you may get some chatter. But obviously the fly is the most expensive part. More then the labor for the job really.
So if you don't have to purchase a flywheel this is like a sub $700 project.
04-18-2012, 12:24 PM
#8
Did you rock the stock fly, have it resurfaced, or replace it?
I was told by a Honda tech that no matter what to replace the flywheel because if you don't you may get some chatter. But obviously the fly is the most expensive part. More then the labor for the job really.
So if you don't have to purchase a flywheel this is like a sub $700 project.
I was told by a Honda tech that no matter what to replace the flywheel because if you don't you may get some chatter. But obviously the fly is the most expensive part. More then the labor for the job really.
So if you don't have to purchase a flywheel this is like a sub $700 project.
I didnt have to purchase a flywheel.
I'm not sure if the shop re-surfaced or not. I know you're not supposed to...
with that being said, I have no chatter.
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maharajamd (04-18-2012)
04-18-2012, 12:34 PM
#9
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The same Honda tech I mentioned will be doing mine, he said $50/hr for 6 hours plus parts. So hell that willl put me at like $600 for a new clutch!
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justnspace (04-18-2012)
04-18-2012, 03:42 PM
#12
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04-18-2012, 07:20 PM
#14
Hmm.. Still iffy about doing this myself but wouldn't want to deal with the headache.. I'll probably let one of my friends uncle who owns a mechanic shop tackle this for $450. So $450 + the clutch +$250 = $700 total.. Reading the fourms last night scared the shit out of me cause I read somewhere it would be $2000ish
04-18-2012, 07:23 PM
#15
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Hmm.. Still iffy about doing this myself but wouldn't want to deal with the headache.. I'll probably let one of my friends uncle who owns a mechanic shop tackle this for $450. So $450 + the clutch +$250 = $700 total.. Reading the fourms last night scared the shit out of me cause I read somewhere it would be $2000ish
I think the dealership would charge you $100/hr for 10, 12 hours for this job?? $1000 labor, $250 clutch, $500 fly? $1750 right there....
04-19-2012, 08:58 AM
#17
Burning Brakes
$80 times 6hr job = $480 (not including shop tool fees)
$90 times 6hr job = $540 (not including shop tool fees)
This is average a small shop will charge. Remember that this will not apply to if you need other things such as Master or Slave cylinder.
Under $600 is a reasonable price range. Dealers will charge $$$ as they go by the book.
As long as the mechanic can do it fast and right for under 6 hrs, you get less to pay out of your pocket.
Go to a reputable Honda guy and knows what he's doing.
$90 times 6hr job = $540 (not including shop tool fees)
This is average a small shop will charge. Remember that this will not apply to if you need other things such as Master or Slave cylinder.
Under $600 is a reasonable price range. Dealers will charge $$$ as they go by the book.
As long as the mechanic can do it fast and right for under 6 hrs, you get less to pay out of your pocket.
Go to a reputable Honda guy and knows what he's doing.
04-19-2012, 10:52 AM
#18
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04-19-2012, 11:49 AM
#19
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I don't know the stock weight of the oem flywheel, but I loved the swap to fidanza flywheel and a stage 2 clutch on my old eclipse. You have to relearn how to drive stick shift as the timing with your feet will be different, but nothing a good driver can't acclimate to.
Even though I was only pushing 215hp and the clutch could hold 410lb tq... I got it because it could take repeated launchings at 3k rpm and still grab each gear like a champ. If you are into modding, the light flywheel and UR pulley are great mods.
Even though I was only pushing 215hp and the clutch could hold 410lb tq... I got it because it could take repeated launchings at 3k rpm and still grab each gear like a champ. If you are into modding, the light flywheel and UR pulley are great mods.
04-19-2012, 12:17 PM
#23
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I went ACT stage 2, don't know if they make one for the TL though.
I miss driving stick
Have a 5AT and use the SS to get through withdrawals lol
If there is a dampner on the stock flywheel a good after market will include the correct needed items to fit. I did have to relearn as you could feel it when you released the clutch at the wrong rpm more than the stock. I would think there would be no issue if you know how to properly rev match. (no power shifting)
I miss driving stick
Have a 5AT and use the SS to get through withdrawals lol
If there is a dampner on the stock flywheel a good after market will include the correct needed items to fit. I did have to relearn as you could feel it when you released the clutch at the wrong rpm more than the stock. I would think there would be no issue if you know how to properly rev match. (no power shifting)
04-19-2012, 12:17 PM
#24
My friends uncle ( mechanic ) said he can get the " luk " brand clutch for around $260. He said if I bring my own clutch he wouldn't warranty if anything happens .. But if I buy the clutch from him he said he will warranty if something goes wrong.
04-19-2012, 12:20 PM
#27
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^Then I would go through him, pay the extra little premium, so that he will warranty the work.
04-20-2012, 10:48 PM
#33
KingKong_Dav
a good o.e clutch will always run you more than 1200 installed, parts and labor plus 1 year warranty. now if you went with a clutch from oriely or autozone it is cheaper. if i were you dstah, go a little better and get a good clutch that grabs, and youll be ok. ask your local part dealer they have performance clutch.
04-15-2015, 01:39 PM
#34
Advanced
I have done some reaserch but stil lhave a question. I'm sticking with OEM, I have a J pipe and AEM v2 but it's just my DD. I would like to skip the expensive a$$ flywheel. Any one done this with good or bad results?
04-15-2015, 02:17 PM
#36
Advanced
04-15-2015, 02:25 PM
#37
does your clutch need to be replaced?
the clutch plate(pressure plate) mates to the fly wheel by rubbing or spinning against each other.
usually if clutch is toast, fly wheel is toast.
but you will only know when you tear into the clutch to inspect fly wheel
the clutch plate(pressure plate) mates to the fly wheel by rubbing or spinning against each other.
usually if clutch is toast, fly wheel is toast.
but you will only know when you tear into the clutch to inspect fly wheel
04-15-2015, 04:37 PM
#38
Advanced
I could make it a while longer taking it easy but when I seldom get on it and shift quick It slipps very bad.
04-16-2015, 06:40 AM
#39
If it eventually engages on high rev shifts and is fine otherwise, you may not need a clutch at all.
Mine would do that all the time before removing the check valve from the slave and even with that, would slip off the line applying more than stock HP. When I went with a higher end clutch, my stock unit wasn't all that bad.
Removing the transmission isn't trivial so if you're going to do it, do everything.
04-16-2015, 08:35 AM
#40
Advanced
When it slips on quick shifts, does it gradually engage or does it continue to slip?
If it eventually engages on high rev shifts and is fine otherwise, you may not need a clutch at all.
Mine would do that all the time before removing the check valve from the slave and even with that, would slip off the line applying more than stock HP. When I went with a higher end clutch, my stock unit wasn't all that bad.
Removing the transmission isn't trivial so if you're going to do it, do everything.
If it eventually engages on high rev shifts and is fine otherwise, you may not need a clutch at all.
Mine would do that all the time before removing the check valve from the slave and even with that, would slip off the line applying more than stock HP. When I went with a higher end clutch, my stock unit wasn't all that bad.
Removing the transmission isn't trivial so if you're going to do it, do everything.
It bounces off the rev limiter long enough for me to just let off thinkingWTH. Normal driving is seemingly fine but I didn't get a sports sedan to not be able to have a little fun every now and then. I just did the big A14 so I don'treally or can't really come off another 15-1700 for this job ATM. That's why Iwas trying to see if the FW could be circumvented.
How long does that check valve removal take? Iread a little about it in that thread but it seemed like a thing for ppl that romp on their car more. I only drive what I would consider hard, maybe 5% ofthe time. That being said, when I do I would like the clutch to engage and notslip.
Last edited by jdw1; 04-16-2015 at 08:38 AM.