Its a universal rack from Amazon. It works good enough until I cough up the hundreds for a quality rack.

why did you get your old car back? Who did you sell it to?

how does it shift now?

It's good actually that it is holding the gear longer. Most cars do that to keep it from slipping and burning up the pressure plates.

I guess my initial response is too much to read. After 3 or 4 months of using a mixture of D4 and racing fluid, I think my transmission is running as good as its going to get. The transmission runs better with the fluid change. But you have to realize that its impossible to drain out all the fluid in one or 2 shots. you really need to have it professionally changed if you want to get out all the transmission fluid in 1 shot. People are changing the fluid themselves to save money I assume, but when you drain the fluid, you can only empty about 3 of the 9 quarts of fluid. So, each time you drain and fill, you end up mixing the fluid with the old fluid. The net result is better, but at this point, I can't tell you exactly how much racing fluid I have verses D4 verses old fluid. It's all a big guess as to how it mixes and therefore I cant say whether or not how good racing fluid is over D4 or vise versa. The stupid thing about all this is that the fluid is 30 bux for 3 or 4 quarts. So if you change it 3 times, its costing you 100 with tax and you still have some old fluid left in there. It's just all mixed down somewhat. So by this mixing process, you can't really get it all out.Try getting a glass of coke and mixing water with it and see how many times it takes to get the coke clear. It's a hella more times than 3. Especially if you only mix 1/3 the cup at a time. So basically, if I did a 100% fluid change from a auto shop who has the correct vaccum tool, and which can do a 100% change of the fluid rathe rthan mixing, then maybe D4 is better than what you think? I think part of the reason so many people are attracted to racing fluid is because the net is better if you mix it with the old stuff too. Sounds pretty shocking, but no one is admitting that. Anyway by the time you change the fluid 3 times to get blend the mixture with new stuff, not only has it cost you more than having it done, but you also still do not have 100% new fluid. I would consider taking D4 or racing fluid to shop and ask them if they can use that fluid rather than their own, and see what their normal charge is for chanign transmission fluid. So in that case, woudl I use D4 or racing fluid? For a 100% change in fluid, i would use D4 first. Then later at home, you can mix it with racing fluid if you feel like experimentation.

Hi, I haven't figured out how to post photos yet, so maybe I ought to just email the picture of the ABS unit to you. If you want, please email me at
tempetom@hotmail.com
and I'll send you the picture.
Tom Hudson

It definately changes the response characteristics of the car. When you get on it now, it doesnt take nearly as long to "think about it". Like if you are cruising along, then then nail it, it quickly down shifts and gets on it. before, I used to have to get on it, in advance of when I wanted it to go. The response time is definately much less. And now it hits a higher gear when I get on it. Before, it would not hit that top gear to get the rpm's up.

I changed the fuild twice with D4 and then twice with the racing fluid. I would have stopped at just once with the racing fluid and with D4 the 2 times before, but the 3rd time I did it, I forgot to put the washer on the drain plug. I wasnt about to do the fluid change again, or the capture then placing it back in, so I just ran another week, and changed it finally for the forth time. For me, I think I like the 3rd time a bit better than the forth because my transmission has a natural hard 3rd gear. The hard shifting was masked a bit better with the 2 D4 and then 1 racing at the end. But I suspect over time it will eventually smooth out more as the fluid gets older and allows for some slipping. At least I think that is the way its going to work. But anyway, for most people that want high performance, and you don't have a hard 3rd gear shift, then I would say go with the racing fluid.
If you want to play it conservative, do like I did. Change with D4 once or twice, then hit it with the racing stuff at the end. And if you like it, then change it again with racing fluid. See, the reason why I say that, is because chaning the fluid by draining the pan, does not empty the whole system. The pan hold about 3 quarters. And the whole system hold probably 8 or 9 or so. So, when you change it once, you are only MIXING the old and the new. So, when you change it 2 or 3 times, you eventually get out more and more of the old fluid. The actual proper way is to have it pumped out with a professional tool. And even though I changed mine 4 times, I still probably have some old fluid running around in there. If I went to a shop and had them pump out the old and insert new, I would lean even more toward the D4 for my particular car. Because I have that issue, and plus a shop would be able to get out more of the old stuff with a pump. So, I would have even more of an issue had I gotton all of the original fluid out. Now, the transmission does eventually learn again to not shift so hard, but it only learns so much. And str8 racing fluid will cause it to go beyond its learning capability and basically the end result is that it shifts quicker and subsequently a bit harder. With only D4, after the first 2 changes, the transmission readjusted both times and eventally, it smoothed back out, for the most part. But the 2nd racing fluid change, it has not relearned enough to where it has smoothed back out. So, for some maybe thats what you want. And for me, i dont have any problem with it, but if I had my choice I would have stayed at 2 D4 and 1 racing fluid at the end. However, I did notice it downshifting to that higher gear easier with the 2nd racing fluid change. So, its a toss up in some regard to me, if I like more racing fluid or more D4. I think it depends on your driving habits, desires and if you have any issues with your car. And I'm still getting a double bump when I go from reverse to drive. The double bump subsided when I did the 2 D4 and 1 racing fluid, but when I went one more with racing fluid, it made the double bump a bit worse. But if the engine is hot I dont notice it much at all. Only when I just start the car or if its been sitting around an hour or so. But again, the better downshifting is worth something. So I have mixed feelings about whether I should have stopped at 2 D4 and 1 racing or not. I think most people would want a bit more extreme than that though.