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2016 ILX Subwoofer Upgrade

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Old 06-11-2016, 01:02 PM   #1
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2016 ILX Subwoofer Upgrade

So if you seen how cheap out stock subwoofers are you ll freak.I had a pro audio shop install a 8" Kicker 40CWD84 free air woofer in the stock location. I gotta tell you this is an awesome ugrade. Hits quite nicely. Would hit even harder with a dedicated amp. The speaker itself is only $79.00 so if know your audio you may wanna do your own install. Here are pics of the before and after. If you do I recommend monuting from underneath so if you blow the speaker can replace with removing rear deck panel. That is all.
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Old 06-15-2016, 02:45 PM   #2
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I was thinking of doing the same thing because I do like a little thump in the car. I know there is no dedicated amp to that sub, but on a scale of 1-10 on 10 being the best. How is the bass with the stock amp?
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Old 06-15-2016, 04:57 PM   #3
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My boss just this week told me that I can have his old sub and amp just sitting at home in his garage. However, I would new to upgrade my high's. I was wondering what speakers and tweeters would you guys recommend? I really don't know who lot about car audio just know JL and Rockford Fosgate are good brand's to go with.
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Old 07-11-2016, 07:01 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by richard gunman View Post
So if you seen how cheap out stock subwoofers are you ll freak.I had a pro audio shop install a 8" Kicker 40CWD84 free air woofer in the stock location. I gotta tell you this is an awesome ugrade. Hits quite nicely. Would hit even harder with a dedicated amp. The speaker itself is only $79.00 so if know your audio you may wanna do your own install. Here are pics of the before and after. If you do I recommend monuting from underneath so if you blow the speaker can replace with removing rear deck panel. That is all.
are you able to provide any details on how to remove the stock sub and hook up the aftermarket one? Are there certain specs that need to be met when choosing a replacement?
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Old 10-31-2016, 09:06 AM   #5
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HI there - thought I'd chime in on this thread. We've owned many Acuras over the years, and I've been active on the RDX and TL threads lately due to the two my wife and I have. Recently my oldest son traded his Accord on a 2017 ILX Premium. And being someone who likes a lot of bass, he was disappointed with the subwoofer that the Premium added. I ran across this thread and forwarded it to him, and this weekend we did the install in the garage. Overall the net results are pretty dramatic, as bass is now present, and the subwoofer controls actually do something meaningful in the audio control screen. :-) But thought I'd share some thoughts about the install (using the same Kicker subwoofer as the original post identified) for those who want an inexpensive upgrade:
  • Spend the $10 and get the general audio instructions for the ILX from Crutchfield. That, plus you can get the no-cut adapter to plug-and-play into the Honda wiring plug for another $10. Just go to Crutchfield: Car Stereo, Speakers, Home Theater, Pro Audio, 4k TV and enter a 2016 ILX (they don't have the '17's in their system yet) and you can go from there. Definitely helps when figuring out the order of tear-down and replacement.
  • The factory subwoofer has 2 ohm impedance. So when you get the Kicker 40CWD84 subwoofer, you follow the wiring diagram for putting the two voicecoils together in PARALLEL, which drops the 2 4-ohm voicecoils down to 2 ohm overall. I verified this w/Crutchfield since I wasn't sure of the correct method. You'll need 2 strands of wire less than a foot each, and use the crimp connectors with the subwoofer to create the 2 connecting wires. Also, the wire-plug adapter from crutchfield had too small of female spade connectors for the speaker, so I used the final two that came with the subwoofer to replace those on the wiring adapter. Then just follow the wiring diagram with the subwoofer and you're ready for plug/play in the car.
  • The teardown of the rear deck trim is a bit unnerving but painless in the end. You snap off the two side C-pillar trim pieces and snap up the whole rear deck cover. Then you see the nice cheapo subwoofer staring you in the face.
  • Right-angle adapters are your friend now. Remove the 4 10mm bolts and the factory sub comes out, and you unplug the connector and you're done.
  • Replacing the sub with the Kicker unit is a bit trickier. The original poster said the shop chose to mount the sub from the bottom, which I guess is easy if you're a contortionist and can get upside down in the trunk :-) For me I dropped it from the top into the opening. I got a right-angle drill attachment and tried my best to line the sub into the middle of the deck cutout - but there isn't a lot of room for error if you want metal to drill a hole to match the sub's mounting holes. I ended up getting 3 good solid mounting holes drilled, and used screws/nuts/locking washers to mount it. I don't think it's going anywhere even with only 3 screws. The tight quarters near the back window mean you have to get creative when centering and drilling.
  • If you mount from the bottom you don't have to do this next step, but if you mount from the top you need to trim the plastic on the underside of the rear deck panel to remove the "spacer" that fit around the factory sub. You'll see what I mean when you remove it - but essentially you're trimming about an inch off of a round plastic spacer, since the Kicker unit is a bit taller than the factory one.
  • Snap the rear deck back into place (with some great contortionist moves). Also note that when replacing the 2 side c-pillar covers, you need to unhook the tops of the 2 side bolsters from the seats, otherwise you'll drive yourself batty trying to get them replaced.
That's it - not bad for a garage install on a Sunday afternoon. Kid is happy with the result and still looks factory from the inside, and from the underside (as the pics in the first reply show) looks good and the sub's not sticking down too far.

andy
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Old 11-02-2016, 10:51 AM   #6
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Are these sub installs with the ELS system or the stock system? Great write ups by the way.
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Old 11-03-2016, 05:21 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by ILXDyna View Post
Are these sub installs with the ELS system or the stock system? Great write ups by the way.
In our case it was with the Premium trim that had this crappy paper sub - definitely not the ELS system that comes with the Nav package..... The base ILX doesn't have the subwoofer, and not sure it has the wiring, either....
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Old 11-19-2016, 12:15 PM   #8
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Would you need to upgrade the amp if you install the Kicker 8inch sub?
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Old 11-19-2016, 10:02 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by oxidez View Post
Would you need to upgrade the amp if you install the Kicker 8inch sub?
No, replacing the stock sub with the kicker will be plug and play.

However do yourself the favor and get an amp.

I completed deleted the stock 8" and replaced it with a 10" sealed box with a mono amp.
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Old 11-20-2016, 11:12 AM   #10
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Does anyone have a recommendation for an amp to match up with the Kicker 40CWD84 (200 RMS , dual 4-ohm voice coils).

I honestly don't know anything about car audio, so if you could help me out, it would be greatly appreciated.
Would this work? Rockville RVA600.1 1200w Peak Mono Amplifier 200w RMS @ 4 Ohms CEA Compliant

Last edited by oxidez; 11-20-2016 at 11:18 AM.
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Old 11-20-2016, 04:35 PM   #11
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You can't go wrong with any of the entry level pioneers GM-A3602.

Walmart carries them.

Stay away from that amazon amp.

You will also need an amp kit. If you have no plans on upgrading get a 12guage if you do go 6 or lower.

Last edited by aksilx; 11-20-2016 at 04:37 PM.
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Old 11-21-2016, 09:30 AM   #12
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Old 11-21-2016, 01:49 PM   #13
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^^^that's perfect

You will also need a LOC (Line Out Converter) since we don't have RCA outputs from the stock head unit.

Simply just unplug the connection that is going into the stock subwoofer, connect the + and - from the LOC. I didn't need to cut anything, just used electrical tape to keep things tight.

You can pick these up at Walmart as well.

Do you plan on installing this yourself?

Last edited by aksilx; 11-21-2016 at 01:52 PM.
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Old 11-21-2016, 07:03 PM   #14
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Myself, I just installed the sub, was too late to install the amp, so I'm probably gonna do it in the next couple of days. Where do you recommended mounting the amp, under the seat or in the trunk?
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Old 11-21-2016, 07:43 PM   #15
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You can mount it underneath the rear shelf for a clean look.

Another option is behind the seats, don't use long screws or mount it in the middle as it might poke the arm rest. .

If you don't have the spare tire, there is a large compartment but it might not be good in the summer time as there is no circulation.

Fishing the power wire (red) from the interior to the engine bay was the hardest part, I cut a coat hanger about 1 ft long and tapped the end of the power wire the fished it through rubber grommet right above the dead pedal. Be very careful doing this, there are wires that you don't want to cut.

I also unscrewed the break reservoir (2.4 8spd) to have better access, eventually I was able to fish it through enough for me to grab it. Also If you get that 12guage kit, the fuse holder is one piece so you will have to cut it to fish the power wire through the re-attach it unless you plan on going through the engine bay to the interior. If you get the 6guage kit, it's all separate so you will have no problems there.

The remote wire (blue) I tapped into the fuse box (accessory) 7.5amps slot #19, it's right beside the dead pedal.

For the ground (brown) there are lots of places you can connect it to, I have mine connected to one of the bolts underneath where the spare tire is.

For those with the stock subwoofer, I disconnected the connection going into the sub and tapped the LOC into the connection.

Run the speaker wires from your amp to the Kicker subwoofer.

Run the RCA cables from the Amp to the LOC

Set your cross overs on the amp and turn on LPF and you are done.

It took me almost 2 hours but 1 hour of that the time I was trying to fish the power wire through.

Good luck!
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Old 11-28-2016, 02:27 PM   #16
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Nice, glad to see everyone has ordered the same sub and they are happy with the results! I had the same idea: amp: JBL GTX500 MONO and sub KICKER 40CWD84 8"
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Old 11-28-2016, 02:40 PM   #17
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I am still trying to wrap my head around on how to wire the remote wire for the amp to power on and power off the amp.
So far I have ordered for my amp and speakers/subs:

Rockford Fosgate RFI2SW Adapts High Level Speaker to Low Level RCA Adapter
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Metra 72-7800 Speaker Connector Harnesses for Select Honda Vehicles
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 11-28-2016, 05:31 PM   #18
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For remote tap the fuse box located above the dead pedal.

It's slot #19 Accessory 7.5A, works perfectly when in accessory mode and when engine is on.
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Old 11-28-2016, 09:23 PM   #19
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For remote tap the fuse box located above the dead pedal.

It's slot #19 Accessory 7.5A, works perfectly when in accessory mode and when engine is on.

Thanks for the info!
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Old 11-29-2016, 09:50 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by richard gunman View Post
So if you seen how cheap out stock subwoofers are you ll freak.I had a pro audio shop install a 8" Kicker 40CWD84 free air woofer in the stock location. I gotta tell you this is an awesome ugrade. Hits quite nicely. Would hit even harder with a dedicated amp. The speaker itself is only $79.00 so if know your audio you may wanna do your own install. Here are pics of the before and after. If you do I recommend monuting from underneath so if you blow the speaker can replace with removing rear deck panel. That is all.

How are you liking your Kicker? Are you planning to install an amp for it? Thanks.
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Old 12-06-2016, 04:14 AM   #21
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Does anyone happen to know the RMS and Ohm rating on the Stock 2016 ELS 8" subwoofer? I like the idea of an upgraded infinite baffle subwoofer opposed to going with a full amp/sub setup. I must be getting old.

-DC
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Old 12-07-2016, 06:25 PM   #22
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Not sure of the RMS but on the non-els subwoofer it's 2ohms

i can't imagine no more then 300watts max RMS imo on the stock system

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Old 02-10-2017, 07:53 PM   #23
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Hey Gunman,
Are you still happy with the Kicker. I have a 2013 ILX Dynamic (Stock - Premium Sound System not the ELS) and have actually ordered the same one and should arrive next week from Amazon. I recently also checked out how to disconnect the ANC (Active Noise Cancellation) in our vehicles and have done so myself following the YouTube video. This in itself does a pretty notable difference with regard to base response with the stock speakers. A good way to see if there is a difference in your vehicle is to play the stereo without the engine running (this is key), then try it with the engine running - If you notice a difference and want a better base response while driving then follow the link below. I am not sure if this makes as much of a difference on the 2nd generation or even the ELS models, however on my car it certainly did.

Now for the down side... It may seem like a bit nerve racking to take apart part of your dash/glove box, however it really is no big deal - I have no busted clips and the fit is exactly the same once put back together. The down side is that there is a bit of noise difference from the engine and road (Duh, that is why there is a ANC in the vehicle).

P.S. - Don't get me wrong there is "no replacement for displacement". If anyone wants deeper base you have to go up in diameter, put that sub in a proper enclosure, and run a separate amp. I have done many installs in the past to mine and other friend's vehicles, however I am getting older and don't want to have the car thump down the street and I wanted a clean look.

Here's the link for those who are interested:
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Old 02-10-2017, 10:00 PM   #24
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Ok, for those who do not want to take apart your dash/glove box but want to bypass the ANC (Active Noise Cancellation) to improve the base response from the stock stereo, I believe there is a way through a button press. I have looked online and found a sequence that works on other Hondas and I found it to work with the 2013 - 2015 ILX models (premium model stereo - unknown if it will work on the ELS). This should help with those who have even upgraded their rear sub woofers.

Here it is:
Press the following together at the same time - Preset #1 button; Power Button ; and Preset #6 button.
Then to turn off the ANC press the Preset #1 button (press it again to toggle it back on).

I have already done the manual route of disconnecting the ANC via through the plug behind the glove box and hence have not had the time to try this out. However from what I have heard by other people who have tired this on other Honda/Acura models, the vehicle will reset itself after each ignition cycle.

There is probably a way to access the Developer Options as well but as of yet I have not figured out what sequence is required. In the Developer Mode you can adjust the ANC as well as the restrictive driving features (i.e. dialing phone numbers or using the phone book while the vehicle is moving).
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Old Today, 11:20 AM   #25
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I apologize if this is a silly question, but is there any way to remove the stock 8" sub and replace it with an upgraded 8" sub in the stock location without removing the pillars/rear deck? Eg, just from the trunk area? I am a bit disappointed with the stock premium sound, and Im not very interested in DIY removing trim pieces, etc... I am debating between replacing the stock 8" sub, vs, keeping it and adding a powered sub box in the trunk.
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Old Today, 01:29 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by ILXSun View Post
I apologize if this is a silly question, but is there any way to remove the stock 8" sub and replace it with an upgraded 8" sub in the stock location without removing the pillars/rear deck? Eg, just from the trunk area? I am a bit disappointed with the stock premium sound, and Im not very interested in DIY removing trim pieces, etc... I am debating between replacing the stock 8" sub, vs, keeping it and adding a powered sub box in the trunk.
ILXSun,
I have not tried this yet, however I will be trying to remove the stock rear deck cover to get access to the stock speaker and mounts. I would have to say I can't imagine it is possible to get access to the stock speaker from below as it is top mounted. Physically it would be impossible unless you used a jigsaw to cut it out from the bottom - But that would make a mess and would look horrible as you would need to build a new mount system from below. You really only have two options:

1) Speaker only = Remove the rear deck and C-pillars via clips. This is usually not a horrible option as long as you are careful when removing the parts and don't break the clips (Heaven forbid you bust a clip, you can buy new ones usually from Lordco for cheaper than the Acura). This way would be the cleanest look, but don't expect a huge increase in base response as you will be using stock power to power a different aftermarket subwoofer. You should expect a cleaner base sound and perhaps a marginal base response, however only if you get the appropriate speaker. You need to have a 2 ohm 8" speaker with a low sensitivity rating and ideally one that works in a free air environment. If you don't use such a speaker you will be wasting your time.

2) Aftermarket separate enclosure and powered amp = Better base response - There is "no replacement for displacement", if you want deeper base you need a bigger woofer properly powered and properly enclosed (of course with proper crossover frequency points). This would require taking up some of your trunk for the enclosure and wiring passive wires and power wires to make the application work.

I will be trying option one once I get my car back from the shop in a couple weeks. I have picked up a Kicker 8" CompD (40CWD82) 2 ohm speaker. However Try bypassing the ANC via your deck (my above post) and see if that makes a bit of difference for you.
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Old Today, 08:25 PM   #27
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ILXSun,
I have not tried this yet, however I will be trying to remove the stock rear deck cover to get access to the stock speaker and mounts. I would have to say I can't imagine it is possible to get access to the stock speaker from below as it is top mounted. Physically it would be impossible unless you used a jigsaw to cut it out from the bottom - But that would make a mess and would look horrible as you would need to build a new mount system from below. You really only have two options:

1) Speaker only = Remove the rear deck and C-pillars via clips. This is usually not a horrible option as long as you are careful when removing the parts and don't break the clips (Heaven forbid you bust a clip, you can buy new ones usually from Lordco for cheaper than the Acura). This way would be the cleanest look, but don't expect a huge increase in base response as you will be using stock power to power a different aftermarket subwoofer. You should expect a cleaner base sound and perhaps a marginal base response, however only if you get the appropriate speaker. You need to have a 2 ohm 8" speaker with a low sensitivity rating and ideally one that works in a free air environment. If you don't use such a speaker you will be wasting your time.

2) Aftermarket separate enclosure and powered amp = Better base response - There is "no replacement for displacement", if you want deeper base you need a bigger woofer properly powered and properly enclosed (of course with proper crossover frequency points). This would require taking up some of your trunk for the enclosure and wiring passive wires and power wires to make the application work.

I will be trying option one once I get my car back from the shop in a couple weeks. I have picked up a Kicker 8" CompD (40CWD82) 2 ohm speaker. However Try bypassing the ANC via your deck (my above post) and see if that makes a bit of difference for you.

Thanks! I'm now leaning towards just adding a sub in the trunk to make things simpler.
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