When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hi folks,
FNG here. Looking for a fix to eliminate my top speed limiter and possibly gain a bit more power; APR and others offer Stages 1-4 tuning for German cars. The stage 1 tune is simply an ECU tweak which usually adds 20-50 hp and an increase in torque. Additionally, they override the top speed limiter. I am a new owner of a 14' TL SH-AWD and could use any help you good people could offer.
The reason APR offers those tunes is because those vehicles use forced induction - you are not going to find gains like that in any Honda/Acura with a N/A engine. It's just not going to happen.
Having owned the '13 TL for a little over two years, I don't think anyone needs to remove the top speed limiter of ~135mph...
The only real tuning solution currently is K-Tuner who has a thread in the Performance section
Wow people he didn't ask your opinions on going over the limiter he was asking for help on how to. There are many places it can be done safely, and frankly he doesnt need to explain himself or how he wants to drive HIS car to you..... Jesus so much for being a helpful forum.
And with a manual tranny these car hit the Limiter fast. Almost every other car in this segment is limited at 155 mph.....
OP, so far as i can tell the only ones working on this are KTuner.
Wow people he didn't ask your opinions on going over the limiter he was asking for help on how to. There are many places it can be done safely, and frankly he doesnt need to explain himself or how he wants to drive HIS car to you..... Jesus so much for being a helpful forum.
And with a manual tranny these car hit the Limiter fast. Almost every other car in this segment is limited at 155 mph.....
OP, so far as i can tell the only ones working on this are KTuner.
Well if you learned to read you would see I actually did answer the OP to the best of my ability.
You on the otherhand seem to spend a large portion of your life filling this forum with useless posts.
Im done responding here. Hopefully my initial post helps OP.
Well if you learned to read you would see I actually did answer the OP to the best of my ability.
You on the otherhand seem to spend a large portion of your life filling this forum with useless posts.
Im done responding here. Hopefully my initial post helps OP.
Out.
If we're being honest here, my post answered all of his questions and was hours before you posted yours.
Your post that's half complaining about other people (I'm starting to see a trend with you...) and the other half adding nothing that wasn't already stated.
Well if you learned to read you would see I actually did answer the OP to the best of my ability.
You on the otherhand seem to spend a large portion of your life filling this forum with useless posts.
Im done responding here. Hopefully my initial post helps OP.
Out.
To be honest also, you and OP are pretty clueless to actual performance. You're talking about trying to install "Truck" brakes on a 4 door sedan. You can't pinch pennies and talk about real performance. Performance takes $$$. OP is taking about APR Performance ECU re calibrations for German applications (mainly VW & Audi). What i'm puzzled about is why on earth would you need a TL to hit above the governor? The car is incredibly slow at higher speeds. Honestly, I wouldn't take a STOCK TL up to those speeds, let alone one that is modified to do so. The TL has been and still is the worse platform ($$ VS Power) for performance. Even if there was a tuning solution for the 4th gen TL, it would be completely worthless for the cost since you'd gain probably less than 10 hp for 2K. Buying something that would tune the TL and having a tuner dyno tune the car will cost $$. If you and OP can tell me what the benefit of taking a stock TL above 135ish MPH serves, by all means speak up. Lastly, OP is better off doing as many bolt-on modifications as possible, if hes looking for gains. If you feel as some are useless here, you could do the opposite and actually contribute to something useful.
LoL, you simple fool, the truck brakes are the same model as ours and the pads were of higher quality than OEM, as are the rotors i mentioned. Besides that I never said they were a performance upgrade. So I say to you too learn to read ...
Also at 300hp in a manual sedan these cars can hit 135 easily and stabily. Lol you and those like you take away from this forum and continue to give me reason to cease reading here. You don't know shit period.
To be honest also, you and OP are pretty clueless to actual performance. You're talking about trying to install "Truck" brakes on a 4 door sedan. You can't pinch pennies and talk about real performance. Performance takes $$$. OP is taking about APR Performance ECU re calibrations for German applications (mainly VW & Audi). What i'm puzzled about is why on earth would you need a TL to hit above the governor? The car is incredibly slow at higher speeds. Honestly, I wouldn't take a STOCK TL up to those speeds, let alone one that is modified to do so. The TL has been and still is the worse platform ($$ VS Power) for performance. Even if there was a tuning solution for the 4th gen TL, it would be completely worthless for the cost since you'd gain probably less than 10 hp for 2K. Buying something that would tune the TL and having a tuner dyno tune the car will cost $$. If you and OP can tell me what the benefit of taking a stock TL above 135ish MPH serves, by all means speak up. Lastly, OP is better off doing as many bolt-on modifications as possible, if hes looking for gains. If you feel as some are useless here, you could do the opposite and actually contribute to something useful.
100% on point. I'm not end all in terms of knowledge on these cars, I just feel like if you wanna "top it out" maybe you purchased the wrong car- BUT to each their own!
LoL, you simple fool, the truck brakes are the same model as ours and the pads were of higher quality than OEM, as are the rotors i mentioned. Besides that I never said they were a performance upgrade. So I say to you too learn to read ...
Also at 300hp in a manual sedan these cars can hit 135 easily and stabily. Lol you and those like you take away from this forum and continue to give me reason to cease reading here. You don't know shit period.
Im done here.
ONE: you don't know anything about anyone on here, so stop acting like you do.
TWO: stabily isn't a word.
Three: we are all entitled to our own opinions, as are you.
Dumb dumb dumb dumb...... Read before you speak, I was responding to the previous fools post regarding brakes that I never said were a performance upgrade. Learn to read, now you're part of the pool of fools too.
I fail to see the relevance of this post. No one here is debating if its fast or slow..... I thought we were taking about Top speed and tuning? I still stand by my opinion that if you want to go Ricky bobby fast you should have purchased another car. 5.2 seconds is average now a days and 13.8 is average. 2016 Ford Fusion Sport has the same times......ok so?
LoL, you simple fool, the truck brakes are the same model as ours and the pads were of higher quality than OEM, as are the rotors i mentioned. Besides that I never said they were a performance upgrade. So I say to you too learn to read ...
Also at 300hp in a manual sedan these cars can hit 135 easily and stabily. Lol you and those like you take away from this forum and continue to give me reason to cease reading here. You don't know shit period.
Im done here.
Don't care if the pads work or not. 300 hp in 4th gen TL with a 6MT? Enlighten me what a stock 4th GEN SH-AWD, 6MT TL puts down to the wheels? Certainly not 300hp anymore. A stock TL isn't stable at 135 let alone anything above that. I bet you I know my shit much more than you do and in fact I know what performance is also. Perhaps I wouldn't know what a 337 HP (WHP) on a 6MT TL does as well. I'm sure If I told you, you'd tell me that I still don't know shit. Seems as if you're really done here. Enjoy those truck brakes while achieving world record top end speed on a 4th gen TL
Last edited by 04WDPSeDaN; 03-09-2017 at 07:31 PM.
Dumb dumb dumb dumb...... Read before you speak, I was responding to the previous fools post regarding brakes that I never said were a performance upgrade. Learn to read, now you're part of the pool of fools too.
Stabily still isn't a word though. So, I'm not sure who is "dumb, dumb, dumb" Maybe I should learn to read, you should learn to reference a thesaurus before you decide to internet.
Don't care if the pads work or not. 300 hp in 4th gen TL with a 6MT? Enlighten me what a stock 4th SH-AWD, 6MT TL puts down to the wheels? Certainly not 300hp anymore. A stock TL isn't stabily at 135 let alone anything above that. I bet you I know my shit much more than you do and in fact I know what performance is also. Perhaps I wouldn't know what a 337 HP (WHP) on a 6MT TL does as well. I'm sure If I told you, you'd tell me that I still don't know shit. Seems as if you're really done here. Enjoy those truck brakes while achieving world record top end speed on a 4th gen TL
we all come from different backgrounds, different ethnicities, different cultures, etc...
it only makes sense that we all have different ways of answering, or acknowledging a topic.
he's mad because we answered differently than what he was expecting. expectations vs reality.
but that's the joy of the internet!! leave a comment or an opinion and sit back and see how other people respond!
sometimes, it will go the way you expect it too...and other times...people will have off the wall responses. that's how life goes, Joe...
take a seat and watch the thread flourish, with good comments and bad comments.
<!~~ has a 4G. I've had more than one, have gone to the limiter in both. Neither were stock, current one has many more modifications than the previous one. They both felt stable at 135.
List of what I have, some installed, some pending installation: kTuner, CT-E intake, bored TB, port matched thermal gasket, PNP'd IM, port matched thermal gasket, PNP'd runners, RDX injectors, PNP'd J37A4 heads, reground cams, 3 angle valves, PCD, Cat-less Jpipe, LW crank, tensioner and alternator pulleys, Rotora BBK (6 piston front/4 piston rear), TEIN SA coils (12k springs front/10k rear) and forged wheels wrapped in mich pss. I'm pretty sure my car is up to spec to be driven responsibly at 155 or above, but wtf do I know?
<!~~ has a 4G. I've had more than one, have gone to the limiter in both. Neither were stock, current one has many more modifications than the previous one. They both felt stable at 135.
List of what I have, some installed, some pending installation: kTuner, CT-E intake, bored TB, port matched thermal gasket, PNP'd IM, port matched thermal gasket, PNP'd runners, RDX injectors, PNP'd J37A4 heads, reground cams, 3 angle valves, PCD, Cat-less Jpipe, LW crank, tensioner and alternator pulleys, Rotora BBK (6 piston front/4 piston rear), TEIN SA coils (12k springs front/10k rear) and forged wheels wrapped in mich pss. I'm pretty sure my car is up to spec to be driven responsibly at 155 or above, but wtf do I know?
Edit: forget a mod.
I gotta agree with you Heart. I have hit 135+ downhill on my FWD TL and it felt stable. I had good brakes (StopTech package from Excelerate) and the SRI but that's all. And good wheels (almost brand new stock wheels, about 5k miles on them). I felt stable. I felt like I could stop easily. Rotors were shot after wards and I had to get them shaped up. The wheels are rated for what, 150? I don't know if I would want to go that fast myself, unless it was a crazy long straight like an airfield, but my mile-long straight w/ a slight decline felt pretty good.
In my 09' without BBK, my only complaint is it took much longer than I would have liked to decelerate had I needed to quickly, but otherwise I felt fine. Though I don't think that's unique to the 4G, I'd except that to be true of most cars.
I'm not posting this to get in to any debate or be lectured about my choices. I am lucky enough to have access to a long stretch of tar (about 1.5 miles total if you accelerate up the driveway to the service road) on occasion. Needless to say, I've had my '13 TL there several times. Top speed runs have consistently read slightly above 140MPH on the speedo on this stretch. I've never bothered to bring a GPS and the speedo may be off but I can assure you the TL is plenty stable at that speed although the noise levels inside the car increase substantially at 100 plus with the tires I have (Michelin Premiers). I would love to take my TL to a proper track with some really sticky summer tires and run laps someday. There's no doubt it is a fast car as long as you can keep the RPMs up and with the AWD magic, I'm sure the TL would hang just fine with a lot of the expensive sport sedans at a track.
That said, I also have a '13 Lexus LS460. The LS is governed to 130 MPH and I've done top speed runs several times with the Lexus too. The Lexus is not a stable feeling car at 130 MPH. The motor is fine, it pulls hard right to 130 but the suspension is just too soft. The amazing thing about the LS is how quiet it remains above 120 though, pretty amazing. But because of the limited feedback from the steering wheel and it's propensity to float like an old Buick on any appreciable undulation it's just not steady. So, if you want to set the cruise at 160MPH, you'll apparently need a Mercedes AMG S class, BMW 7 or an Audi S. I imagine those, about the same size as my LS, would do just fine at high speed.
While it is entirely possible that I'm from another planet, my 14 SH-AWD TL stops pulling at 119. Is it just me? To the guys who were fighting about who is smarter and who spelled a word wrong, RELAX!! HAVE A LAXATIVE.
As to why, someone asked Sir Edmund Hillary the same question when he stated his intention to climb Everest; the rest is history. Secondly, mine stops pulling at 119.
03-09-2017, 07:21 AM
