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Hey everyone, I'm new here. Nice place you guys have going.
Anyway, I'll introduce myself in a different post. My question: I found a lot of information/topics/diagrams on the previous model jack points, but I can't seem to find any for the 4th gen TL. I have a 2009 TL. Anyone have any resource for this? Greatly appreciate it.
There are six jacking points, one behind each front wheel on the side, one in front of each rear wheel on the side and one front center and one rear center.
Does anyone here have experience lifting a TL SH-AWD onto 4 jack stands? I haven't looked under my car yet, but plan to this evening.
Is there a front center lift point? I know that 7th gen Honda Accords have one below the engine compartment.
Is there a rear center lift point? I've read conflicting things about whether or not it is safe to lift the rear of a AWD/RWD vehicle by the rear differential. Those that do suggest using a piece of wood to avoid puncturing/damaging the casing.
I've also read on Civic forums and the TL forum here that you can place the jack at the rear tow hook. Is the 4th gen TL SH-AWD too heavy for this?
Finally, I've read varying things on whether it is safe to use a floor jack on a car with unibody construction as it can damage the welds. Is there any validity to this?
I've had no issues using a hydraulic floor jack when switching out summer/winter tires. I typically use the front & rear center points when jacking as shown in the pic below. I only have two jack stands rated at 4 tons, so I've not had the whole car supported with only jack stands. There's more info in this thread https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...jacking+points
I've had no issues using a hydraulic floor jack when switching out summer/winter tires. I typically use the front & rear center points when jacking as shown in the pic below. I only have two jack stands rated at 4 tons, so I've not had the whole car supported with only jack stands. There's more info in this thread https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...jacking+points
Here's the details from the shop manual as well.
^Same here
If jacking the car on an outside weld would damage your car, I would buy a different car.
Just a suggestion, when I jack up any of my cars I put a block of wood (2x4) between the floor jack pad and the car so as not to have metal to metal. Sometimes floor jack pads are not flat but cupped like mine and some do not have a protective rubber pad like mine either.
I've had no issues using a hydraulic floor jack when switching out summer/winter tires. I typically use the front & rear center points when jacking as shown in the pic below. I only have two jack stands rated at 4 tons, so I've not had the whole car supported with only jack stands. There's more info in this thread https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...jacking+points
Here's the details from the shop manual as well.
where is the front jacking bracket they show? is it under the middle of the engine or further back? anyone one have an actual photo ?
^ It's probably about foot behind the bottom of the radiator, right on the centerline of the car. (looking from the side it'd be about halfway between the grill and front tires) There's a small cut out in the plastic cover and you can see the metal support point protruding down slightly. It's also got a small hole in the center of it.
Hello everyone, first post in this forum and I must admit, tons of great info here!
I know that this is a topic that has been discussed before on this forum. However, I have a particular question that I can't seem to have resolved, even though I did a few searches.
I did an oil change on my TL (it's a 2012 SH-AWD) myself for the first time last week. I figured I'd be okay if I jacked it up just from the front, which turned out to work out well for the oil change. I know where the jack stand mounting points are for the front since it's shown pretty clearly in the owner's manual:
The rear mounting points are in a similar position, but in front of the tires. I used a 2.5 ton Big Red jack (from Pep Boys). I know that 2.5 tons is cutting it close since the TL weighs around 2.4 However, once I had the car up to the height I needed for the jack stand, I could not fit the stand in place if I was using the floor jack, there simply wasn't enough room. I have a pair of 3 ton steel Pittsburgh Automotive jack stands that I got at Harbor Freight. Outside of the reinforced notch in the frame that's shown in the manual, there's only another stretch of the frame that's open and then the rest is covered by the side skirt. I obviously don't want to bend or damage the beautiful side skirt I have But there simply wasn't enough room if I used the floor jack. . .
I ended up using the scissor jack to get the car up, which left me just enough room on both sides of the front to fit my jack stands. I even felt more comfortable getting the car up as high as I needed to using the scissor jack since the floor jack seemed to be harder to push up on for the same height.
Of course, using the scissor jack is not a good idea if I continue jacking the car up in the future. But what do I do about getting more room without damaging my side skirt? There has to be a way to get the car up using both a legit jack and jack stands.
There seems to be a lot of great info here. What have you guys done out there to be able to get the car up safely and no damage?
Sorry I can't help much because I bought a set of these ramps and they work perfect for oil changes. I know what you mean about struggling to find jack points though. Keep in mind that even though the jack is rated for 2.5 tons and the cars total weight might be 2.4 tons you're never going to get close to the total cars weight when jacking one end of the car up so your jack is perfectly safe.
<p>you can build a stand with some extra wood lying around for the jack. make the stand wide and long enough to place the entire jack on. </p><p> </p><p>or you can be unsafe and stack wood on top of the jack. if going this route, make sure everything is stable before jacking up. </p><p> </p><p>it's your jack that isnt lifting it high enough, if the options I gave above does not suit you, you can always buy a new jack that lifts higher or buy shorter stands </p>
Last edited by justnspace; 09-21-2015 at 02:50 PM.
The factory repair manual shows the location of front and rear central jacking points for the car. Using those will allow the jack stands to be placed at the proper body locations.
Sorry I can't help much because I bought a set of these ramps and they work perfect for oil changes. I know what you mean about struggling to find jack points though. Keep in mind that even though the jack is rated for 2.5 tons and the cars total weight might be 2.4 tons you're never going to get close to the total cars weight when jacking one end of the car up so your jack is perfectly safe.
Wreak - You're right about the ramps and thanks for the advice. I actually have an old pair of them lying somewhere around my house that I can probably use. My only problem with them is that they may not work for all jobs that I'd want to be doing, such as checking/replacing my rear differential fluid.
Originally Posted by justnspace
<p>another thing you can do is, place the jack stands under the control arms INSTEAD of the "jack points" on side of car </p>
justnspace - Would this not be a problem (or just cutting it close) if I was to do an oil change again in the future? The oil filter is very close to the front-right wheel well. I like the sounds of this idea otherwise though
Originally Posted by fsures
The factory repair manual shows the location of front and rear central jacking points for the car. Using those will allow the jack stands to be placed at the proper body locations.
fsures - Not to pick on you, but what do you mean by the "proper body locations"? That's exactly what I'm hoping to find out here
Aside from the jacking points along the side (pictured above), there are also ones in the middle front and rear. I use those to get the wheels off the ground and then don't have to deal with a jack that's near where I want to place my jack stands. The one in the front is a silver piece with a hole in the middle (maybe a foot or two back), and the one in the rear is a metal loop (a foot or less from rear).
I can't provide a pic but if you get underneath the car you should see what I'm referring to.
EDIT - I took too long to finish my post and see that fsures beat me to it. Hopefully my descriptions help a bit.
<p>you can build a stand with some extra wood lying around for the jack. make the stand wide and long enough to place the entire jack on. </p><p> </p><p>or you can be unsafe and stack wood on top of the jack. if going this route, make sure everything is stable before jacking up. </p><p> </p><p>it's your jack that isnt lifting it high enough, if the options I gave above does not suit you, you can always buy a new jack that lifts higher or buy shorter stands </p>
Another thing I forgot to mention is that I don't believe the height is the issue. I was able to get the car high enough with my floor jack. It was a problem with the width of the jack combined with the width of the stand. There just isn't enough room to fit both given the amount of space I have for the opening in the side skirt.
fsures - Sorry, I didn't understand your answer at first. You're saying to jack the car up from the front and rear and then place the jack stands on the sides. That makes sense.
I also have the option to place the stands on the control arms.
If anyone would be able to provide pictures for the front and rear jack mounting points, I'd greatly appreciate it. I have to admit, reading a thread like this scares me stiff. . .
Has anyone ever mounted the car onto the main frame rail? I just saw this mentioned in another thread. Was there any difficulty going that route?
</p><p> </p><p>there is a front and rear subframe, that you can place stands under. But, I wouldnt place the stands anywhere else but these locations...</p><p>-front and rear subframe<br />- control arms<br />- jacking points as indicated in manual. </p><p> </p><p>those are the only structural sound pieces that are flat enough to put a stand under </p><p> </p>
Just put a block of wood on top of the jack when you're getting the rear off the ground. I've done it for years and never had an issue. Just use some common sense when doing it...like if it looks like the block is tilting, sliding or splitting, you should probably stop. Even better if you can find a couple of hockey pucks. They'll fit perfectly on the jack and won't move at all once there's some pressure on them.
Just put a block of wood on top of the jack when you're getting the rear off the ground. I've done it for years and never had an issue. Just use some common sense when doing it...like if it looks like the block is tilting, sliding or splitting, you should probably stop. Even better if you can find a couple of hockey pucks. They'll fit perfectly on the jack and won't move at all once there's some pressure on them.
I have a concern about doing that though. . . I'm putting something pretty solid into something that has a round bulge on it. I haven't tried it just yet, but isn't that going to be unstable? Or do you find a piece of wood that's long enough to stretch out onto some more flat and solid surfaces near the hook ring?
I have a concern about doing that though. . . I'm putting something pretty solid into something that has a round bulge on it. I haven't tried it just yet, but isn't that going to be unstable? Or do you find a piece of wood that's long enough to stretch out onto some more flat and solid surfaces near the hook ring?
Don't overthink this. You're just using something to increase the extension of the jack. A simple block of wood about as wide as the platform of the jack is all you need. You can always jack the car up using the jacking points on the pinch welds on the side of the car and put the jackstands on the frame. Personally, I don't like doing that because I feel having the jackstands as spread out as possible is safest.
I actually bought a low profile jack that extends to 24". That way I can get it under the TL while also being able to lift the front / rear two wheels of my wife's Ody off the ground at the same time.
There are six jacking points, one behind each front wheel on the side, one in front of each rear wheel on the side and one front center and one rear center.
HAve posts been removed? I didnt read a single mention of " how" to jack up a car or even jack points.
I've had no issues using a hydraulic floor jack when switching out summer/winter tires. I typically use the front & rear center points when jacking as shown in the pic below. I only have two jack stands rated at 4 tons, so I've not had the whole car supported with only jack stands. There's more info in this thread https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...jacking+points
Here's the details from the shop manual as well.
have they removed posts? i didnt read one word about jack points, or anything.
Does anyone here have experience lifting a TL SH-AWD onto 4 jack stands? I haven't looked under my car yet, but plan to this evening.
Is there a front center lift point? I know that 7th gen Honda Accords have one below the engine compartment.
Is there a rear center lift point? I've read conflicting things about whether or not it is safe to lift the rear of a AWD/RWD vehicle by the rear differential. Those that do suggest using a piece of wood to avoid puncturing/damaging the casing.
I've also read on Civic forums and the TL forum here that you can place the jack at the rear tow hook. Is the 4th gen TL SH-AWD too heavy for this?
Finally, I've read varying things on whether it is safe to use a floor jack on a car with unibody construction as it can damage the welds. Is there any validity to this?
Did you ever follow the info you wer elooking for in regards to how to jack up your car? I folowed all the suggested threads and found nothing. Help?
There are six jacking points, one behind each front wheel on the side, one in front of each rear wheel on the side and one front center and one rear center.
Originally Posted by mrphilipanderson
HAve posts been removed? I didnt read a single mention of " how" to jack up a car or even jack points.
There was a PDF originally posted in the thread but it is no longer visible, Since it was posted 9 years ago, and the OP hasn't logged in for more than 4 years, he probably removed it, and isn't likely to see your post.
The information he posted is acurate and is similar to my 3G TL, which has one in the front under the radiator which is a rectangular plate about 2x3 inches IIRC, one in the rear which should be the tow hook, and 4 on the sides under the rocker panels, and I have used all of them when doing oil changes.
12-23-2010, 08:22 PM
TL SH-AWD Jack Points
However, once I had the car up to the height I needed for the jack stand, I could not fit the stand in place if I was using the floor jack, there simply wasn't enough room. I have a pair of 3 ton steel Pittsburgh Automotive jack stands that I got at Harbor Freight. Outside of the reinforced notch in the frame that's shown in the manual, there's only another stretch of the frame that's open and then the rest is covered by the side skirt. I obviously don't want to bend or damage the beautiful side skirt I have 
