For those with oil burning issues, what motor oil are you running?
10-28-2014, 12:57 AM
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
For those with oil burning issues, what motor oil are you running?
It's time for my first oil change on my 14 TL SHAWD and wondering those with oil burning issues what brand of oil did you use? Reason I ask is on my AP1 S2000, it only burned oil excessively when I used Mobil 1. When I used others even dino oil, it was fine. Thanks for any info.
10-28-2014, 01:38 AM
#2
It's time for my first oil change on my 14 TL SHAWD and wondering those with oil burning issues what brand of oil did you use? Reason I ask is on my AP1 S2000, it only burned oil excessively when I used Mobil 1. When I used others even dino oil, it was fine. Thanks for any info.
Statement is pretty much meaningless, deceptive, and worthless. JMO
10-28-2014, 01:52 AM
#3
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Simple question really specific to TL and just referencing my experience with another Honda motor where it also burned oil. If you really want to know S2000 motor oil burning details google it or pretend 2nd sentence isn't there in my post.
10-28-2014, 06:47 AM
#4
also, today's modern oil is a blend.
that dino oil you think is conventional is actually classified as a grp III oil.
a blend.
this is why modern oil can withstand 6-8k mile oil intervals
if an engine is burning oil; there are issues with the engine, not the oil.
that dino oil you think is conventional is actually classified as a grp III oil.
a blend.
this is why modern oil can withstand 6-8k mile oil intervals
if an engine is burning oil; there are issues with the engine, not the oil.
10-28-2014, 10:06 AM
#6
Burning Brakes
I recommend running only the weight oil that is specified in the OM. The bearing and piston ring clearances are "set" at the factory for that oil weight. Heavy weight oils can; not will, but can; cause premature wear which can lead to ..... oil burning. I learned this the hard way back in the 1990's.
I doubt that the oil type or brand has anything to do with burning. As stated above, ^2, it's the engine.
I doubt that the oil type or brand has anything to do with burning. As stated above, ^2, it's the engine.
The following users liked this post:
justnspace (10-28-2014)
10-28-2014, 06:28 PM
#7
2G TLX-S
My 3.7L-V6 burns oil at about the same rate, no matter if I use the Honda full synthetic oil or the Honda conventional dino oil.
Trending Topics
10-29-2014, 12:08 AM
#8
Racer
5W20 Mobil 1 and top it off with Castrol Edge 10W30 since I have several 1L size laying around in the garage. Not too concerned about blending different grade oil as dilution will be minor and my engine has not exploded after 4000km of driving.
10-29-2014, 01:27 PM
#9
2G TLX-S
^^^^^
It may not be good to mix different brands of synthetic oil, because each oil manufacturer synthesizes it's synthetic-oil base using different formulas; and nobody has done any research as if all these different synthetic bases are compatible with each other.
However, it is safe to mix different brands of conventional oil, or to mix synthetic oil with conventional oil.
It may not be good to mix different brands of synthetic oil, because each oil manufacturer synthesizes it's synthetic-oil base using different formulas; and nobody has done any research as if all these different synthetic bases are compatible with each other.
However, it is safe to mix different brands of conventional oil, or to mix synthetic oil with conventional oil.
10-30-2014, 01:12 AM
#10
Racer
Edward'TLS, yes, I agree with you. However, I have mixed various brand/grades of synthetic oil for a few years now when topping up or finishing up a few open jars. I can say that engines they were put in ran fine and no damage came about until the cars were traded/sold with mileage upwards of 160K miles.
Until the oil manufacturer explicitly states mixing cannot be done on their packaging and stats to prove it, I have no concern.
Until the oil manufacturer explicitly states mixing cannot be done on their packaging and stats to prove it, I have no concern.
10-30-2014, 10:36 AM
#11
Burning Brakes
I have had good luck with Valvoline Synpower 5w-20 in my 3.7. It has a really low NOACK score, which is a measurement of when a oil will vaporize at a given temperature. It seems the Synpower resists burning off better than others.
10-31-2014, 11:26 AM
#12
Queen of SH-AWD
My Acura service department fills my 2010 TL SH-AWD with Valvoline 5W-30 Full Synthetic. I am currently burning oil for some reason. It just started happening after she turned 50k miles. Loosing about 1 quart/ 1000k miles.
10-31-2014, 02:49 PM
#14
I came into this thread after reading the title saying to myself, I bet this guy is asking because of Mobil 1. I had my oil changed on my old 2005 TSX one time away from the dealership and they used a Mobil 1 oil filter and oil. For the first time ever my TSX burnt oil like crazy and I'm convinced that stuff messed up my car because from that point forward everytime I changed my oil the oil would turn black in half the time it took before I ran Mobil 1 through it...NEVER AGAIN.
The following users liked this post:
crxb (04-12-2016)
10-31-2014, 05:29 PM
#16
I came into this thread after reading the title saying to myself, I bet this guy is asking because of Mobil 1. I had my oil changed on my old 2005 TSX one time away from the dealership and they used a Mobil 1 oil filter and oil. For the first time ever my TSX burnt oil like crazy and I'm convinced that stuff messed up my car because from that point forward everytime I changed my oil the oil would turn black in half the time it took before I ran Mobil 1 through it...NEVER AGAIN.
10-31-2014, 05:58 PM
#17
10-31-2014, 09:40 PM
#18
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Thanks for the responses so far. I kid you not but my 2009 Honda Pilot also burned oil excessively when I tried Mobil 1. So I'm asking because my S2000 and Pilot burned through Mobil 1, stops burning after switching to other brands like Castrol and Penzzoil. I do use Mobil 1 on my MS3 since it doesn't burn oil. In "my" experience, Mobil 1 and Honda motors don't mix. 2 folks here mentioned Mobil 1 so will keep Mobil 1 away from my TL like my other Hondas.
11-04-2014, 02:06 AM
#19
Queen of SH-AWD
03-05-2016, 06:08 PM
#20
I came into this thread after reading the title saying to myself, I bet this guy is asking because of Mobil 1. I had my oil changed on my old 2005 TSX one time away from the dealership and they used a Mobil 1 oil filter and oil. For the first time ever my TSX burnt oil like crazy and I'm convinced that stuff messed up my car because from that point forward everytime I changed my oil the oil would turn black in half the time it took before I ran Mobil 1 through it...NEVER AGAIN.
I use to use mobile 1 or castrol (still do)
Half way through the the oil will burn to the point past the hashtag. Topp off with Quaker state 3000k later hasn't dropped a hair. I do 5000k synthetic oil change.
For some of you saying its an engine, it is true in some cases but oil CAN make a difference. I feel like the 3.7 motors run really hot compared to the earlier J32 motors. I don't know if it's just me. I'm gonna try ENOS and LUQI MOLI. Cause there is a 5-20 coming out this summer where I am.
04-11-2016, 06:56 PM
#21
10th Gear
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Ontario
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I came into this thread after reading the title saying to myself, I bet this guy is asking because of Mobil 1. I had my oil changed on my old 2005 TSX one time away from the dealership and they used a Mobil 1 oil filter and oil. For the first time ever my TSX burnt oil like crazy and I'm convinced that stuff messed up my car because from that point forward everytime I changed my oil the oil would turn black in half the time it took before I ran Mobil 1 through it...NEVER AGAIN.
04-12-2016, 06:49 PM
#23
2G TLX-S
If the oil burning problem is caused by the piston sealing ring leaking, then heavier weight engine oil will definitely help.
04-13-2016, 10:41 PM
#24
Senior Moderator
burning is caused by the oil heavily shearing due to wear on pistons and piston walls. Oil shears and breaks down and burns. Thanks nikasil liners.
04-14-2016, 02:02 AM
#25
2G TLX-S
But aren't synthetic oils highly resistance to breakdown, unlike conventional oils.
However, my car continues to burn away even full synthetic oil.
However, my car continues to burn away even full synthetic oil.
04-14-2016, 09:52 AM
#26
Burning Brakes
To the best of my knowledge the 3.7 liners do not contain any Nikasil. Is this published information? The 3.7 liners are a high silicon aluminum alloy that includes a bore finishing operation to etch away the soft Al in the bore. Nikasil contains nickel and is plated on.
BTW, there are several other H/A cars, 4 and 6 cylinders, that have documented oil burning issues. The common cause between them is carbon build up on the piston rings. My 3.7 started to burn oil a couple of years ago. I used oil and fuel cleaner (MMO in the oil 500 miles before oil change and Chevron Techron in fuel at the same time). Without changing anything else; same oil, filter, driving habits, etc; the oil burning disappeared. I'm not stating that this is main cause for others but is was in my case.
I also did this on my wife's 2008 Honda Odyssey (now an ex-wife) and her oil burning disappeared. Same for my Dad's 2008 Odyssey.
BTW, there are several other H/A cars, 4 and 6 cylinders, that have documented oil burning issues. The common cause between them is carbon build up on the piston rings. My 3.7 started to burn oil a couple of years ago. I used oil and fuel cleaner (MMO in the oil 500 miles before oil change and Chevron Techron in fuel at the same time). Without changing anything else; same oil, filter, driving habits, etc; the oil burning disappeared. I'm not stating that this is main cause for others but is was in my case.
I also did this on my wife's 2008 Honda Odyssey (now an ex-wife) and her oil burning disappeared. Same for my Dad's 2008 Odyssey.
Last edited by Reorge; 04-14-2016 at 09:54 AM. Reason: Typo
04-14-2016, 09:14 PM
#27
Senior Moderator
To the best of my knowledge the 3.7 liners do not contain any Nikasil. Is this published information? The 3.7 liners are a high silicon aluminum alloy that includes a bore finishing operation to etch away the soft Al in the bore. Nikasil contains nickel and is plated on.
BTW, there are several other H/A cars, 4 and 6 cylinders, that have documented oil burning issues. The common cause between them is carbon build up on the piston rings. My 3.7 started to burn oil a couple of years ago. I used oil and fuel cleaner (MMO in the oil 500 miles before oil change and Chevron Techron in fuel at the same time). Without changing anything else; same oil, filter, driving habits, etc; the oil burning disappeared. I'm not stating that this is main cause for others but is was in my case.
I also did this on my wife's 2008 Honda Odyssey (now an ex-wife) and her oil burning disappeared. Same for my Dad's 2008 Odyssey.
BTW, there are several other H/A cars, 4 and 6 cylinders, that have documented oil burning issues. The common cause between them is carbon build up on the piston rings. My 3.7 started to burn oil a couple of years ago. I used oil and fuel cleaner (MMO in the oil 500 miles before oil change and Chevron Techron in fuel at the same time). Without changing anything else; same oil, filter, driving habits, etc; the oil burning disappeared. I'm not stating that this is main cause for others but is was in my case.
I also did this on my wife's 2008 Honda Odyssey (now an ex-wife) and her oil burning disappeared. Same for my Dad's 2008 Odyssey.
Bold mine.
Originally Posted by Acura Press Release, 2010
ENGINE BLOCK
Both the 3.5-liter TL engine block and that of the 3.7-liter TL SH-AWD® are constructed of lightweight die-cast aluminum. The 3.5-liter engine has thin-wall iron liners that are made in a centrifugal spin-casting process that ensures high strength and low porosity. The rough outer surface of these liners makes an effective bond with the aluminum block, enhancing block stiffness and heat transfer from the liners to the block.
The 3.7-liter TL SH-AWD® cylinder liners are made of high-silicon aluminum and are cast directly into the aluminum block. The hard piston ring sealing surface of the liners is created during manufacturing with a mechanical etching process that exposes silicon particles embedded in the sleeves. The aluminum sleeves provide better cooling thus allowing closer piston-to-cylinder clearance than iron liners afford. The alloy liners also improve heat dissipation in the area between adjacent cylinder bores, allowing the SH-AWD® engine to have larger cylinder bores, even though its bore-center dimensions (the distance between the centers of adjacent bores) is the same as the 3.5L V-6.
Both the 3.5-liter and the 3.7-liter cylinder blocks are heat-treated for strength and have deep-skirt designs with four bolts per bearing cap (providing excellent structural support for the crankshaft), thus minimizing engine noise and vibration.
Both the 3.5-liter TL engine block and that of the 3.7-liter TL SH-AWD® are constructed of lightweight die-cast aluminum. The 3.5-liter engine has thin-wall iron liners that are made in a centrifugal spin-casting process that ensures high strength and low porosity. The rough outer surface of these liners makes an effective bond with the aluminum block, enhancing block stiffness and heat transfer from the liners to the block.
The 3.7-liter TL SH-AWD® cylinder liners are made of high-silicon aluminum and are cast directly into the aluminum block. The hard piston ring sealing surface of the liners is created during manufacturing with a mechanical etching process that exposes silicon particles embedded in the sleeves. The aluminum sleeves provide better cooling thus allowing closer piston-to-cylinder clearance than iron liners afford. The alloy liners also improve heat dissipation in the area between adjacent cylinder bores, allowing the SH-AWD® engine to have larger cylinder bores, even though its bore-center dimensions (the distance between the centers of adjacent bores) is the same as the 3.5L V-6.
Both the 3.5-liter and the 3.7-liter cylinder blocks are heat-treated for strength and have deep-skirt designs with four bolts per bearing cap (providing excellent structural support for the crankshaft), thus minimizing engine noise and vibration.
You may be right about the lack of nickel so it may be the Alusil instead.
04-16-2016, 03:17 PM
#28
Burning Brakes
I checked my oil today and the level has not moved in 4,403 miles (it's right on the "full" line). I take a picture of the level before & after oil changes to document in case of problems. It used to burn 1/2 to 3/4 of a quart every 5,000 miles before I started using the cleaning procedure I described in earlier post.
I have used Mobil 1 5w-20 since the first oil change. I've used Amsoil EaO21 synthetic media over-sized filter in all but the first two changes (were Mobil-1 M1-110). (BTW: This filter is no longer available)
I have used Mobil 1 5w-20 since the first oil change. I've used Amsoil EaO21 synthetic media over-sized filter in all but the first two changes (were Mobil-1 M1-110). (BTW: This filter is no longer available)
04-17-2016, 08:45 PM
#29
I checked my oil today and the level has not moved in 4,403 miles (it's right on the "full" line). I take a picture of the level before & after oil changes to document in case of problems. It used to burn 1/2 to 3/4 of a quart every 5,000 miles before I started using the cleaning procedure I described in earlier post.
I have used Mobil 1 5w-20 since the first oil change. I've used Amsoil EaO21 synthetic media over-sized filter in all but the first two changes (were Mobil-1 M1-110). (BTW: This filter is no longer available)
I have used Mobil 1 5w-20 since the first oil change. I've used Amsoil EaO21 synthetic media over-sized filter in all but the first two changes (were Mobil-1 M1-110). (BTW: This filter is no longer available)
What cleaner? There's so many out there.
04-18-2016, 01:39 AM
#30
Senior Moderator
The following users liked this post:
Arcelyte (04-25-2016)
04-20-2016, 09:56 PM
#31
Instructor
I also believe that the oil is one of the main culprit. I am tempted to try the Eneos 5-20 or 5-30 by reading their spec it sounds it may withstand better than the current oil I am using Acura/Honda branded. In my last oil change they found out my oil pump gasket needs replacement, small leak has shown. SA suggested to change when I do the timing belt.
04-25-2016, 08:44 AM
#33
Burning Brakes
For clarification ...
500 miles before oil change: I use Marvel Mystery Oil, 16oz in oil and 16oz in fuel. I also put Chevron Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner, 20oz in fuel. I suspect the Techron does most of the cleaning. There are several different "Techron" types; if it costs less than $10 (non-sale), it's the wrong one. I recommend using more than one tank full of Techron the first time you try.
2012 TL-Shawd and two 2008 Honda Odysseys: All had minor oil burning issues (less than 1 qt every 5k miles) and all stopped burning after utilizing this method.
500 miles before oil change: I use Marvel Mystery Oil, 16oz in oil and 16oz in fuel. I also put Chevron Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner, 20oz in fuel. I suspect the Techron does most of the cleaning. There are several different "Techron" types; if it costs less than $10 (non-sale), it's the wrong one. I recommend using more than one tank full of Techron the first time you try.
2012 TL-Shawd and two 2008 Honda Odysseys: All had minor oil burning issues (less than 1 qt every 5k miles) and all stopped burning after utilizing this method.
04-25-2016, 11:09 AM
#34
Im running Castrol 0w-40 and its reduced consumption to approx 1.5 qts per 4500 miles.
Will try a qt. of MMO on the next go round.
Will try a qt. of MMO on the next go round.
I also believe that the oil is one of the main culprit. I am tempted to try the Eneos 5-20 or 5-30 by reading their spec it sounds it may withstand better than the current oil I am using Acura/Honda branded. In my last oil change they found out my oil pump gasket needs replacement, small leak has shown. SA suggested to change when I do the timing belt.
04-25-2016, 03:10 PM
#35
For clarification ...
500 miles before oil change: I use Marvel Mystery Oil, 16oz in oil and 16oz in fuel. I also put Chevron Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner, 20oz in fuel. I suspect the Techron does most of the cleaning. There are several different "Techron" types; if it costs less than $10 (non-sale), it's the wrong one. I recommend using more than one tank full of Techron the first time you try.
2012 TL-Shawd and two 2008 Honda Odysseys: All had minor oil burning issues (less than 1 qt every 5k miles) and all stopped burning after utilizing this method.
500 miles before oil change: I use Marvel Mystery Oil, 16oz in oil and 16oz in fuel. I also put Chevron Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner, 20oz in fuel. I suspect the Techron does most of the cleaning. There are several different "Techron" types; if it costs less than $10 (non-sale), it's the wrong one. I recommend using more than one tank full of Techron the first time you try.
2012 TL-Shawd and two 2008 Honda Odysseys: All had minor oil burning issues (less than 1 qt every 5k miles) and all stopped burning after utilizing this method.
04-27-2016, 02:26 PM
#36
Senior Moderator
Im really curious to know if from the factory the 2nd rings were placed in upside down causing this as not all have this issue.
Id really like someone with oil consumption issues that has done a motor swap to pull the motor apart and look at a few pistons to see.
04-27-2016, 09:15 PM
#37
Burning Brakes
My 3.7 burned/consumed oil at the rate of about 1.5 quarts every 4k miles. I discovered that the 2nd rings had been placed in upside down (by me) (looking at the 3.5 manual and where the markings/orientation are is different from the 3.7 even though they look similar) once i replaced the rings and put them in the correct direction (no other block work done) the motor hasnt burned/consumed a drop since. Currently at 8k miles on this oil and its still at the full line.
Im really curious to know if from the factory the 2nd rings were placed in upside down causing this as not all have this issue. Id really like someone with oil consumption issues that has done a motor swap to pull the motor apart and look at a few pistons to see.
Im really curious to know if from the factory the 2nd rings were placed in upside down causing this as not all have this issue.
Id really like someone with oil consumption issues that has done a motor swap to pull the motor apart and look at a few pistons to see.
04-27-2016, 10:34 PM
#38
Senior Moderator
Its not a true J37 block, Its a 3.7 built from a J35A3 using all J37a internal parts. But like i said, i had the burning oil issues due to the 2nd ring being placed upside down, they similar design to the 3.5 but get placed in differently.
Last edited by fsttyms1; 04-27-2016 at 10:37 PM.
04-28-2016, 11:04 AM
#39
Drifting
^^ Interesting. Maybe some of the assemblers on the production line made the same understandable mistake. That would explain why some cars have the issue and others do not.
04-30-2016, 08:14 AM
#40
Senior Moderator
That is what i have wondered, and why i would like to see a few opened up to see which position that 2nd ring is in. Its an easy one to do, especially if your past building has been the 3.2- 3.5s and would explain the randomness of the oil consumption.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mada51589
3G TL Problems & Fixes
79
05-03-2022 08:54 PM
IIDXholic
Car Parts for Sale
23
10-08-2015 07:53 AM
