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Hi guys. I have my eye on a silver moon and a black TL-SHAWD.
They are both low miles in good shape so it really comes down to the color.
My current TLS is silver. I do love it but was looking for a change to a different color. On the 4G TL, my first two choices are black and then silver. However, black may not be for me. I live in PA, we get a good amount of snow, rain etc.
I am not the type of person to spend hours and hours detailing my car every weekend. Too busy. I generally may do that once a year and have a shop do it another time. As far as other washing its a mix of shammy shine car wash or doing it myself in the summer. Am I asking for trouble by buying a black TL ?
I have a darker color MDX(grigio) that gets similar treatment and it looks pretty good to me. Is Black going to be that much worse than Grigio in terms of maintenance ? I do know my 7 year old TLS sparkles to this day every time I wash it. It is garaged as well so perhaps that helps.
I live in PA and have a Black TL. It's my first black car. I wanted a different color, but I had a few silver cars prior and I couldn't find white. Black was really the only color I could get in a MT. Overall, it's not as bad as everyone makes it out to be. Sure it's more maintenance. The biggest thing is that as soon as you drive it after it's clean, it'll have a layer of "dust" on it....no matter what. In the spring I clay bar, do a light paint correction with my PC 7424 and then apply a polish and sealant. After each wash I use something like optimum spray wax. I will use opti-seal on it every few weeks to keep the paint protected.
Do the washes yourself with Optimum No Rinse. Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine: clay lubricant, optimum rinseless wash, no rinse car wash, optimum detailing products You can wash your car in the garage year round and it will prevent a lot of the issues you see with people who run their cars through auto car washes, or use an old mitt and soap. Any automated carwash will mess up the paint. Even a "hand wash" will cause issues because they use crappy towels on lots of cars without changing, and most likely drop them and keep using them. Touchless car washes use harsh chemicals that will remove whatever protection you have on the paint, and they won't fully remove the dirt. It may look pretty clean, but there is a film there.
the advice is the same whether or not you have a black car, silver car, white, car, blue car, grigio car, whatever color the car may be.....
the advice will always be the same.
wash the car weekly with the two bucket method and grit guards, making sure that there is NO DEBRIS on your wash media.
My plan is to write this article a bit differently than what I usually do. I am going to specifically address techniques, procedures, and products for the NBP Acura paint, as well as areas of concern on the TL. Having said that though, these techniques can be used on any color/manufacturer of paint. If you can follow instructions for a challenging color like NBP, then you can be assured that it will work on yours.
The ultimate goal of this article is to create a detailing reference of sorts for Acura owners. Assessing the easily damaged Acura paint (Return to Top)
The owner of this particular TL had seen some of my work, and contacted me about a consultation to see what we could do to correct some problems and take the finish to a new level. When he found out that I owned a NBP TL-S, he knew that I was the right person for the job. One interesting note is that he’s an engineer for American Honda here in Ohio, and was part of the design/development team for this particular model.
Although he’s taken pretty good care of it over the years, it had its fair share of scrapes, swirls, and bumps and bruises. The biggest issue he was concerned with was a stain on the trunk lid from milk…more on that later. Because of all the fine scratches and swirls, the finish looked a bit dull, and the blue flake that owners of NBP love so much was quite muted. I knew that leveling the clear coat and then jewelling it with an ultra-fine polish would restore it to its original beauty (or better).
When the car arrived it was cloudy out, so I was unable to get any good “before” photos in the sunshine to show the level of swirls and defects in the paint. I had to settle for some shots with the flash, and with an inspection light, but you’ll be able to get a good idea of what I was dealing with.
First up are the lower rocker panels. This is a problem area with most cars, but they get exceptionally bad on the TL. They are very easily scratched, and get abused by road debris and from shoes/legs while getting in and out of the car. Since they get so dirty, it’s easily to scratch them up during the wash process as well. The finish on these was so bad that there was no reflectivity or depth whatsoever. They also had a lot of very deep vertical scratches (from shoes) and I knew they would be too deep to fully correct.
The areas around the door handles were in rough condition as well. You need to keep rings, keys, and long fingernails away from the paint otherwise you’ll end up with this. When opening and closing the door, always (lightly) use the handle…don’t grab the door to close it. I even have my 9-year old trained to use this method, and the door he always gets in and out of remains completely scratch free.
This is the rear door, and these types of scratches are usually a good indicator that somebody has been closing the door by pushing/sliding against it instead of using the handle. If you have friends/family regularly getting in and out of your car, kindly ask that they use the handle and not to touch the painted surfaces. Sure they’ll think that you have serious OCD issues, but your paint will remain in good condition and you will maintain a higher resale value as a result.
Last edited by justnspace; 01-29-2015 at 08:01 AM.
Since the lower part of the doors and rockers are typically the dirtiest, I will pre-rinse them to remove and loosen up as much of the dirt as possible. The more dirt you remove prior to washing, the less the chances are of scratching your finish.
Now I’ll move on to a few areas that require some special attention, and ones that are often overlooked.
For these areas I use another product that is safe for all kinds of finishes…P21S Total Auto Wash. Don’t use any harsh cleaners because they can stain plastic or paint. When in doubt, read the product label.
The front end of the car catches all of the nastiest stuff, so be sure to thoroughly clean out the emblem and the grills. Spray on some P21S TAW, agitate with a soft brush, and rinse off.
When was the last time you cleaned inside your fuel-fill area? It gets dirty too, so don’t neglect it. Once again, P21S TAW is your friend here.
And the emblems…
If your door jambs have more than a light dust buildup, then you can use the same process in here. When rinsing off, just use an extremely light spray of water, and keep the nozzle very close otherwise you’ll soak the interior and door panel of your car.
I realize that most people don’t own a Foam Gun, but I find it to be a tremendous tool for fighting the battle against wash-induced swirls. You just put your car shampoo in the bottle, attach it to the hose (it comes with a quick disconnect), and thoroughly pre-soak the vehicle in suds. This will further help to break down the dirt and debris, and will provide plenty of lubrication to help float away the dirt from the surface. The more gentle the process, the better the chances are of keeping your NBP looking its best.
I usually let the foam dwell on the surface for a few minutes first.
Now I’m ready to start washing. You want to make sure you’re using a very soft wash mitt otherwise, you guessed it, you’ll induce swirls! I have found the DI sheepskin wash mitt to be a proven winner for safe washing. I will do only small sections at a time (i.e. half the hood, a fender), and then completely rinse out the wash mitt before moving on to the next section. Remember you’re using little to no pressure at all. I always start with the top horizontal surfaces first, and work my way down.
(Note: Be sure to thoroughly hand-wash your mitt after each time you wash your car to ensure it’s clean and free of any debris the next time you use it)
After one small section, dip your wash media into the rinse bucket and gently rub it against the Grit Guard at the bottom to loosen any dirt and debris. This is a critical step in keeping a defect-free finish.
Your wash mitt is now clean, and ready to be dipped into your wash bucket. Once again, when you’re done washing the vehicle, your wash bucket should be as clean as when you started.
For the sides of the car, I’ll first wash the upper portion with my wash mitt..
…and then I’ll use a separate wash media, such as the Lake Country grout sponge, for the dirtier, lower parts.
Don’t forget to clean up under here…especially if your TL has a backup camera like my Type S does. Cleaning and washing exhaust tips (Return to Top)
Your engine doesn’t need to be cleaned all of the time, but it’s worthwhile to go in and clean it every now and again. Once again my choice of cleaners is P21S TAW. Here you have to be careful, because if you use a strong cleaner, you risk staining plastic components, or worse yet your paint. Be safe and use a gentle cleaner. I’ll spray everything down (including the underside of the hood), and then clean it with an assortment of brushes and sponges. For a complete step-by-step guide, please refer to my tutorial on Engine Bay Cleaning. Drying black paint without adding swirls (Return to Top)
We’re done with the wash process now, so let’s move on to the proper way to dry it to keep from marring the finish.
Just because you’re armed with some microfiber towels it doesn’t mean that you’re not going to induce swirls in the soft Acura paint. You also need to have the right kind of microfiber, and care for it properly as well. You have to use a very high quality microfiber towel, and use light pressure.
The first thing I do after washing (always in the shade…especially on dark colored vehicles), is pull the car back in the garage and blow off all of the standing water, and water that hides in all of the cracks and crevices. The less you have to touch the vehicle the better. You could use a product like the Metro Vac ‘n Blo, or compressed air. If you don’t have access to one of these, then don’t worry because you can still get it done the old fashioned way.
When you do your final rinse on the car, it’s best to take the spray nozzle off of the hose so that the steady flow of water creates a sheeting action. This will minimize the droplets of water which will help prevent water spots.
Now that you’re ready to dry it off, first take a waffle-weave micro fiber towel, and gently drag it across the finish to remove the majority of the water.
This will leave a little bit of water on the finish, and you want to get that wiped down to avoid streaking. If you just buff that out with a plush, dry microfiber, you still run the risk of marring the finish. For this step, you want to add some lubrication and the best method I have found on my NBP TL-S is to lightly spray either some Optimum Instant Detailer or Optimum Spray Wax onto the still-damp surface.
Finally you want to take your plush, clean towel (here I am using the DI Great White), and very gently buff the surface with little to no pressure. Depending on how wet the surface was with water and detailer/spray wax, you may have to wipe it down, and then use a second towel for a final buffing. Once again, you’re using little to no pressure. With this proven method, you should have no streaks or water spots, and you’ll be left with a beautiful finish. It also saves time since you’re doing the drying and waxing/quick detailing at the same time.
If you follow those key steps in washing and drying, you should be able to keep your NBP TL (or whatever else you may be driving) looking its absolute best without inducing swirls in the washing and drying process. I can typically complete the entire wheels/wash/dry/wax process in an hour (without engine cleaning).
Let’s move on…
The following 6 users liked this post by justnspace:
C8N (01-29-2015),ggesq (01-29-2015),JTL12 (01-31-2015),SinCity-TL (01-29-2015),sockpuppet (01-29-2015),TuroTL (01-30-2015) and 1 others liked this post. (Show less...)
I have a CBP and it was recently in a body shop due to a hit and run.
The paint itself came out like crap. Buffer holograms and paint overspray all over and since the car was due for a detail which I planned for in early the spring, I let it go. In addition, the body shop would have butchered away with my clear coat. Since it was a mess anyways, I also allowed the dealer to give it a wash. Now the paint is bad.... really bad. But... compared to other 2+yr old black cars, its on par (probably better) and IMO, these are things most people will not even notice.
So in conclusion... if you are anal like me, you are going to have a tough time with the CBP. However, if you are like the average Joe, don't stress about it. Hakuna matata.
I own a black TL and a silver Caravan. The TL gets babied, the royal treatment on weekends. The Caravan is a company car that is subject to parking lot dings, occasional dealer car washes etc. Unless you are willing to put the effort justn described go with the silver, much more forgiving.
thanks guys. Good advice. I'm not super anal about cars, but to me nothing looks worse than a black car with a bunch of swirl marks on it. I know they are there on a silver car too, but I don't see them and it must take a lonnnnggg time for them to be visible, because after 7 years, I still don't see them on my TLS, and yet I can see dullish black swirled paint on my neighbors cars that are newer than my TL. I'm a busy guy so perhaps a lower maintenance option like Silver would be better for me.
But IMO nothing looks as nice as clean black car.
I get a ear to ear smile on my face after a nice detail job and makes everything worth it... not to mention the stares and comments you get. After my last detail job, one of my friends asked if I had dumped oil all over my car.
I agree on black looking best when its clean. But Silver looks pretty damn good clean too.
Sooo....Silver it is ! I like how the car can look pretty awesome with just tint.
^ No disagreements from me.
If we end up buying a 2nd car for the ball and chains, it will most likely be a silver car as there is no way I am going to maintain 2 black cars
Since the lower part of the doors and rockers are typically the dirtiest, I will pre-rinse them to remove and loosen up as much of the dirt as possible. The more dirt you remove prior to washing, the less the chances are of scratching your finish.
Now I’ll move on to a few areas that require some special attention, and ones that are often overlooked.
For these areas I use another product that is safe for all kinds of finishes…P21S Total Auto Wash. Don’t use any harsh cleaners because they can stain plastic or paint. When in doubt, read the product label.
The front end of the car catches all of the nastiest stuff, so be sure to thoroughly clean out the emblem and the grills. Spray on some P21S TAW, agitate with a soft brush, and rinse off.
When was the last time you cleaned inside your fuel-fill area? It gets dirty too, so don’t neglect it. Once again, P21S TAW is your friend here.
And the emblems…
If your door jambs have more than a light dust buildup, then you can use the same process in here. When rinsing off, just use an extremely light spray of water, and keep the nozzle very close otherwise you’ll soak the interior and door panel of your car.
I realize that most people don’t own a Foam Gun, but I find it to be a tremendous tool for fighting the battle against wash-induced swirls. You just put your car shampoo in the bottle, attach it to the hose (it comes with a quick disconnect), and thoroughly pre-soak the vehicle in suds. This will further help to break down the dirt and debris, and will provide plenty of lubrication to help float away the dirt from the surface. The more gentle the process, the better the chances are of keeping your NBP looking its best.
I usually let the foam dwell on the surface for a few minutes first.
Now I’m ready to start washing. You want to make sure you’re using a very soft wash mitt otherwise, you guessed it, you’ll induce swirls! I have found the DI sheepskin wash mitt to be a proven winner for safe washing. I will do only small sections at a time (i.e. half the hood, a fender), and then completely rinse out the wash mitt before moving on to the next section. Remember you’re using little to no pressure at all. I always start with the top horizontal surfaces first, and work my way down.
(Note: Be sure to thoroughly hand-wash your mitt after each time you wash your car to ensure it’s clean and free of any debris the next time you use it)
After one small section, dip your wash media into the rinse bucket and gently rub it against the Grit Guard at the bottom to loosen any dirt and debris. This is a critical step in keeping a defect-free finish.
Your wash mitt is now clean, and ready to be dipped into your wash bucket. Once again, when you’re done washing the vehicle, your wash bucket should be as clean as when you started.
For the sides of the car, I’ll first wash the upper portion with my wash mitt..
…and then I’ll use a separate wash media, such as the Lake Country grout sponge, for the dirtier, lower parts.
Don’t forget to clean up under here…especially if your TL has a backup camera like my Type S does. Cleaning and washing exhaust tips (Return to Top)
Your engine doesn’t need to be cleaned all of the time, but it’s worthwhile to go in and clean it every now and again. Once again my choice of cleaners is P21S TAW. Here you have to be careful, because if you use a strong cleaner, you risk staining plastic components, or worse yet your paint. Be safe and use a gentle cleaner. I’ll spray everything down (including the underside of the hood), and then clean it with an assortment of brushes and sponges. For a complete step-by-step guide, please refer to my tutorial on Engine Bay Cleaning. Drying black paint without adding swirls (Return to Top)
We’re done with the wash process now, so let’s move on to the proper way to dry it to keep from marring the finish.
Just because you’re armed with some microfiber towels it doesn’t mean that you’re not going to induce swirls in the soft Acura paint. You also need to have the right kind of microfiber, and care for it properly as well. You have to use a very high quality microfiber towel, and use light pressure.
The first thing I do after washing (always in the shade…especially on dark colored vehicles), is pull the car back in the garage and blow off all of the standing water, and water that hides in all of the cracks and crevices. The less you have to touch the vehicle the better. You could use a product like the Metro Vac ‘n Blo, or compressed air. If you don’t have access to one of these, then don’t worry because you can still get it done the old fashioned way.
When you do your final rinse on the car, it’s best to take the spray nozzle off of the hose so that the steady flow of water creates a sheeting action. This will minimize the droplets of water which will help prevent water spots.
Now that you’re ready to dry it off, first take a waffle-weave micro fiber towel, and gently drag it across the finish to remove the majority of the water.
This will leave a little bit of water on the finish, and you want to get that wiped down to avoid streaking. If you just buff that out with a plush, dry microfiber, you still run the risk of marring the finish. For this step, you want to add some lubrication and the best method I have found on my NBP TL-S is to lightly spray either some Optimum Instant Detailer or Optimum Spray Wax onto the still-damp surface.
Finally you want to take your plush, clean towel (here I am using the DI Great White), and very gently buff the surface with little to no pressure. Depending on how wet the surface was with water and detailer/spray wax, you may have to wipe it down, and then use a second towel for a final buffing. Once again, you’re using little to no pressure. With this proven method, you should have no streaks or water spots, and you’ll be left with a beautiful finish. It also saves time since you’re doing the drying and waxing/quick detailing at the same time.
If you follow those key steps in washing and drying, you should be able to keep your NBP TL (or whatever else you may be driving) looking its absolute best without inducing swirls in the washing and drying process. I can typically complete the entire wheels/wash/dry/wax process in an hour (without engine cleaning).
Let’s move on…
I agree on black looking best when its clean. But Silver looks pretty damn good clean too.
Sooo....Silver it is ! I like how the car can look pretty awesome with just tint.
Looks really nice. But don't forget what Gino Vanelli said about black cars. They really do look better in the shade.
Man that looks like a helluva lotta steps to keep the black clean. I went with Silver. Silver definitely doesn't photograph as well as black but in person I preferred the Silver. This Silver Moon color is fantastic!
01-29-2015, 07:31 AM
