Instructions to tap out ACC switched 12V for 4G TL.
03-05-2012, 03:58 AM
#1
2G TLX-S
Thread Starter
Instructions to tap out ACC switched 12V for 4G TL.
Originally I thought it would just be another quicky to tap out an ACC switched 12V from the fusebox, just like on all older generations of Honda/Acura vehicles. Until I removed the lower dash fusebox cover and took a peek at the fusebox, then I realized that this was no easy feat.
First of all, let alone finding an ACC switched terminal source, there are simply no exposed blade-type terminals available to be quickly connected to.
Secondly, all fuses used are the low-profile mini type which are very hard to buy, and even harder to find is the fuse tap that is designed for this low-profile mini fuse application.
After much researching, I finally located a place where it sells low-profile mini fuse taps, and I decided to use the #18 ACCESSORY 7.5A fuse slot to tap out the ACC switched 12V.
Since 7.5A low-profile mini fuse was the lowest current fuse, that I could find locally, for the fuse tap, I had added a in-line fuse holder with a 2A glass-tube-type fuse for proper protection, because having 7.5A of fault current going through any malfunctioning radar detector will sure start a nasty fire inside the car.
As for the ground connection, I chose the bolt which secures the metal bracket of the "smart main unit" located right adjacent to the fusebox. I soldered the ground wire to a ring connector, slipped the ring connector through the bolt, then screwed back everything tight.
First of all, let alone finding an ACC switched terminal source, there are simply no exposed blade-type terminals available to be quickly connected to.
Secondly, all fuses used are the low-profile mini type which are very hard to buy, and even harder to find is the fuse tap that is designed for this low-profile mini fuse application.
After much researching, I finally located a place where it sells low-profile mini fuse taps, and I decided to use the #18 ACCESSORY 7.5A fuse slot to tap out the ACC switched 12V.
Since 7.5A low-profile mini fuse was the lowest current fuse, that I could find locally, for the fuse tap, I had added a in-line fuse holder with a 2A glass-tube-type fuse for proper protection, because having 7.5A of fault current going through any malfunctioning radar detector will sure start a nasty fire inside the car.
As for the ground connection, I chose the bolt which secures the metal bracket of the "smart main unit" located right adjacent to the fusebox. I soldered the ground wire to a ring connector, slipped the ring connector through the bolt, then screwed back everything tight.
The following 3 users liked this post by Edward'TLS:
03-05-2012, 04:44 PM
#3
2G TLX-S
Thread Starter
^^^^^ For hardwiring the radar detector.
If you look at the driver side fuse label picture above, you'll notice that #26 (10A) is the fuse to the LEFT oem fog light. There is also another 10A fuse, in the passenger side fusebox, that supplies current to the RIGHT oem fog light. So powering both fog lights will require a 20A fuse.
The #18 ACCESSORY fuse slot is for a 7.5A fuse. I don't think it is safe to use this fuse slot to power both the 7.5A-max accessories plus the 20A-max fog lights, just in case that the wiring providing current to the #18 slot is not of a gauge heavy enough.
But you can use this #18 ACC-switched tap out to switch a relay which in turns connects/disconnects battery power to the fog lights.
If you look at the driver side fuse label picture above, you'll notice that #26 (10A) is the fuse to the LEFT oem fog light. There is also another 10A fuse, in the passenger side fusebox, that supplies current to the RIGHT oem fog light. So powering both fog lights will require a 20A fuse.
The #18 ACCESSORY fuse slot is for a 7.5A fuse. I don't think it is safe to use this fuse slot to power both the 7.5A-max accessories plus the 20A-max fog lights, just in case that the wiring providing current to the #18 slot is not of a gauge heavy enough.
But you can use this #18 ACC-switched tap out to switch a relay which in turns connects/disconnects battery power to the fog lights.
03-05-2012, 05:41 PM
#5
2G TLX-S
Thread Starter
Mine is just a suggestion. I need to look at the OEM headlight/foglight wiring circuits in detail before I can come up with a proper wiring plan, because I don't want to cause damage to anything electrically after having spliced into the OEM circuit(s).
03-05-2012, 07:19 PM
#7
Drifting
^^^^^ For hardwiring the radar detector.
If you look at the driver side fuse label picture above, you'll notice that #26 (10A) is the fuse to the LEFT oem fog light. There is also another 10A fuse, in the passenger side fusebox, that supplies current to the RIGHT oem fog light. So powering both fog lights will require a 20A fuse.
The #18 ACCESSORY fuse slot is for a 7.5A fuse. I don't think it is safe to use this fuse slot to power both the 7.5A-max accessories plus the 20A-max fog lights, just in case that the wiring providing current to the #18 slot is not of a gauge heavy enough.
But you can use this #18 ACC-switched tap out to switch a relay which in turns connects/disconnects battery power to the fog lights.
If you look at the driver side fuse label picture above, you'll notice that #26 (10A) is the fuse to the LEFT oem fog light. There is also another 10A fuse, in the passenger side fusebox, that supplies current to the RIGHT oem fog light. So powering both fog lights will require a 20A fuse.
The #18 ACCESSORY fuse slot is for a 7.5A fuse. I don't think it is safe to use this fuse slot to power both the 7.5A-max accessories plus the 20A-max fog lights, just in case that the wiring providing current to the #18 slot is not of a gauge heavy enough.
But you can use this #18 ACC-switched tap out to switch a relay which in turns connects/disconnects battery power to the fog lights.
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03-06-2012, 03:12 AM
#8
2G TLX-S
Thread Starter
Why not buy an invisicord (http://www.invisicord.com/) and tap into your auto-dimming mirror instead? This works great if you are going to mount your detector high or attached to rear view mirror. I have had my Inviscord for two cars and it works great.
Due to the mounting location, there will be less exposed wiring by going to the left through the A-pillar, rather than by going to the right and down to the power mirror, especially with the bulky inline fuseholder.
That's why I chose the A-pillar route for a cleaner look.
03-06-2012, 03:24 AM
#9
2G TLX-S
Thread Starter
Try not to tap out from those fuses that are used for critical vehicle functions and driving aids such as SH-AWD, ABS/VSA, fuel pump, etc., for safety reasons.
03-06-2012, 10:43 AM
#10
Moderator
so should i tap it from a current working source? like my windshield wipers?
i need something so that when my car turns on, my independent fogs will turn on as well along with the car. tapping into my oem fog lights wont work as it turns on with my headlights.. which i dont want..
i need something so that when my car turns on, my independent fogs will turn on as well along with the car. tapping into my oem fog lights wont work as it turns on with my headlights.. which i dont want..
03-08-2012, 03:50 PM
#11
2nd Gear
Join Date: Feb 2012
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Can you let us know where you mount the radar detector?
I'm trying to find a way to mount it on the top of the winshield that I can still use both sun visors.
We just bought a TL, and I have an invisicord. However, if I clip the detector to the passenger side visor, my wife can't use it. With a blendmount, the detector is too much in my line of view.
I'm trying to find a way to mount it on the top of the winshield that I can still use both sun visors.
We just bought a TL, and I have an invisicord. However, if I clip the detector to the passenger side visor, my wife can't use it. With a blendmount, the detector is too much in my line of view.
03-08-2012, 06:00 PM
#13
2G TLX-S
Thread Starter
Can you let us know where you mount the radar detector?
I'm trying to find a way to mount it on the top of the winshield that I can still use both sun visors.
We just bought a TL, and I have an invisicord. However, if I clip the detector to the passenger side visor, my wife can't use it. With a blendmount, the detector is too much in my line of view.
I'm trying to find a way to mount it on the top of the winshield that I can still use both sun visors.
We just bought a TL, and I have an invisicord. However, if I clip the detector to the passenger side visor, my wife can't use it. With a blendmount, the detector is too much in my line of view.
I couldn't find a better location to mount the detector.
If mounted on the dark-tinted portion at the top of the windshield, the tint will reduce the effectiveness of the laser detection.
If mounted on the clear portion of the windshield, everyone will notice the detector from outside the car. When cops see it, say during a routine stop, they won't be as nice to the driver. When thieves see it, they'll smash the window and steal their prize.
There are some old threads with 4g members using different ways of mounting their detectors, do a search.
Last edited by Edward'TLS; 03-08-2012 at 06:03 PM.
03-08-2012, 06:50 PM
#15
2G TLX-S
Thread Starter
The cheap BEL940 from Costco.
03-08-2012, 10:26 PM
#17
2G TLX-S
Thread Starter
It gets the job done. It has just saved my ass again yesterday afternoon.
If you have time, search through the old threads on radar detectors posted by other 4G members.
Some detectors, especially the Valentine, are constantly being self-triggered by the BSI on the Advance/Elite trim TL's; thus rendering them almost useless. I don't remember if any Escort model has been tried out and discussed inside those threads.
Since you also have the Elite, just want to give you a heads up in advance, so you won't have to go through the trouble of returning the unit later.
If you have time, search through the old threads on radar detectors posted by other 4G members.
Some detectors, especially the Valentine, are constantly being self-triggered by the BSI on the Advance/Elite trim TL's; thus rendering them almost useless. I don't remember if any Escort model has been tried out and discussed inside those threads.
Since you also have the Elite, just want to give you a heads up in advance, so you won't have to go through the trouble of returning the unit later.
03-09-2012, 01:21 PM
#19
Instructor
Why not buy an invisicord (http://www.invisicord.com/) and tap into your auto-dimming mirror instead? This works great if you are going to mount your detector high or attached to rear view mirror. I have had my Inviscord for two cars and it works great.
04-18-2023, 11:27 AM
#20
Originally I thought it would just be another quicky to tap out an ACC switched 12V from the fusebox, just like on all older generations of Honda/Acura vehicles. Until I removed the lower dash fusebox cover and took a peek at the fusebox, then I realized that this was no easy feat.
First of all, let alone finding an ACC switched terminal source, there are simply no exposed blade-type terminals available to be quickly connected to.
Secondly, all fuses used are the low-profile mini type which are very hard to buy, and even harder to find is the fuse tap that is designed for this low-profile mini fuse application.
After much researching, I finally located a place where it sells low-profile mini fuse taps, and I decided to use the #18 ACCESSORY 7.5A fuse slot to tap out the ACC switched 12V.
Since 7.5A low-profile mini fuse was the lowest current fuse, that I could find locally, for the fuse tap, I had added a in-line fuse holder with a 2A glass-tube-type fuse for proper protection, because having 7.5A of fault current going through any malfunctioning radar detector will sure start a nasty fire inside the car.
As for the ground connection, I chose the bolt which secures the metal bracket of the "smart main unit" located right adjacent to the fusebox. I soldered the ground wire to a ring connector, slipped the ring connector through the bolt, then screwed back everything tight.
First of all, let alone finding an ACC switched terminal source, there are simply no exposed blade-type terminals available to be quickly connected to.
Secondly, all fuses used are the low-profile mini type which are very hard to buy, and even harder to find is the fuse tap that is designed for this low-profile mini fuse application.
After much researching, I finally located a place where it sells low-profile mini fuse taps, and I decided to use the #18 ACCESSORY 7.5A fuse slot to tap out the ACC switched 12V.
Since 7.5A low-profile mini fuse was the lowest current fuse, that I could find locally, for the fuse tap, I had added a in-line fuse holder with a 2A glass-tube-type fuse for proper protection, because having 7.5A of fault current going through any malfunctioning radar detector will sure start a nasty fire inside the car.
As for the ground connection, I chose the bolt which secures the metal bracket of the "smart main unit" located right adjacent to the fusebox. I soldered the ground wire to a ring connector, slipped the ring connector through the bolt, then screwed back everything tight.
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