Solaris94

Hello Guys,

Here's the write up. Sorry it took so long. I actually reengineered the entire install since my last post. I wanted the installation to be simpler, and easier. I also decided to hide the gas springs between the hinge and rear panel, so it would not rub against the carpeted surrounds. I also redesigned the mounting point on the hinge, using the factory thru hole of the torsion springs to mount the ball studs. I have created a PDF file but don't know a place that would host it. So here it is in plain form.



Torsion Springs Replacement in
2005 TSX Trunk with Gas Springs
Author: Nick Ha
June 17, 2005

Disclaimer:

The following instructions are provided free of charge. Perform the following procedure at your own risk. All precautions must be taken. Use protective gloves and eyewear to prevent injuries to yourself and those around you. Read all instructions carefully before starting work. I will not be responsible for any injuries, void of warrantee, or none functioning trunk as a result of performing the following modifications. Now that we got the disclaimer out of the way, let’s begin. Good luck.

Parts You Will Need:

Most of the following parts can be found at www.mcmaster.com. Just type in the part number in the search box, then click find. The part number and description of the part will be highlighted in the right frame, and you can order the part on the left frame. Other more common parts can be found at Home Depot, or any hardware store.

Parts to Mount to the Trunk Hinge:


Figure 1: Hinge Hardware

2X - Zinc-Plated Ball Stud with 10 mm ball - McMaster Carr P/N 9512K63
2X – 3/8” Locking Washers – Home Depot
4X – 3/8” Flat Washer (0.7” THK) – Home Depot
2X – Barrels, 1” Long, 5/16”-18 Thread – McMaster Carr P/N 90216A350

Parts to Mount to the Back Wall:


Figure 2: Back Wall Hardware

4X - #10 Self-Tapping Sheet Metal Screw, ¾” long – Home Depot
4X - #10 Locking Washer – Home Depot
4X - #10 Flat Washer – Home Depot
2X – Ball Bracket with 10 mm Ball – McMaster Carr P/N 9512K95

The Gas Springs:


Figure 3: Gas Springs Hardware

2X – Gas Springs, 80 lbs Strength – McMaster Carr P/N 9416K74
4X – Ball Socket Fittings – Black Steel Chromate – McMaster Carr P/N 9416K15

Note:
If you have a trunk spoiler or heavy application of Dynamat to your trunk lid, you have to use a stronger set of gas springs. In those cases, I would recommend ordering a range of gas springs to test which will fit your trunk best. I would start with 80LB and go up.

Installation:

The following illustrations show the gas spring replacement to the right hinge (passenger side) of the TSX. The installation to the left side (driver side) is the mirror image of these photographs.

Remove Torsion Springs:


Figure 4: Remove Torsion Springs

If you have a special tool to remove the torsion springs, use it. If not, do what I did.

1. Remove the plastic piece that holds the two springs together at the center of the rear deck.
2. Use a hammer and wedge it between one end of the spring, and twist it right out.
3. Do the same to remove the other spring.
4. Use the spring to prop up the trunk while you work.

Remove the Carpeted Surround:


Figure 5: Remove Carpeted Surround

Tilt back the backrest and the remove the pin shown by the red arrow. Do the same other side.


Figure 6: Remove Carpeted Surround (cont.)

Remove the tire cover, the tool panel, the plastic panel over the threshold, and the spare tire before removing the carpeted surrounds.

1. Remove the pins shown by the red arrows.
2. Unsnap the hidden attachments following the direction of the green arrows.
3. Pull the surround out of the strap mountings shown by the blue arrows.
4. Place the surround in a safe place.
5. Do the same to the other side.

Install the Ball Stud to the Trunk Hinge:


Figure 7: Install Ball Stud

Install the ball stud as shown. Picture was taken from underneath of the right hinge. The Ball stud should be pointing to the outside of the car, not the center of the car. In another word, it should be between the hinge and the rear panel of the car.

1. Insert the barrel nut thru the factory hole for the torsion spring.
2. Install ball stud, locking washer, and two flat washers on the other side.
3. Tighten the ball stud with a ½” wrench. Use a pair of pliers to hold the barrel nut while you are tightening the ball stud.
4. Do the same to the other hinge. Remember, the ball stud to point outside the car.

Install Ball Bracket to Back Wall:


Figure 8: Install Ball Bracket

Install the Ball Bracket as shown.

1. Locate the ball bracket between the two gussets in the back wall. Point the ball stub to the center of the car. Slide it to the top of the gussets. I used double-sided tape behind the bracket to let me use both hands to install the screws.
2. Insert the #10 self-tapping screws through the #10 locking and flat washers. Install the screws through the top and bottom holes of the bracket. Do not over tighten, or you will strip the holes.
3. Install the other bracket to the other side with the ball stud pointing toward the center of the car.

Install the Gas Springs:


Figure 9: Install Gas Spring

Install the gas springs as shown.

1. Screw the ball sockets to both ends of the gas spring.
2. Install the socket over the ball studs at both ends. Position the opening of the socket over the ball stud and snap it in place.
3. Do the same for the other side.
4. Test the operation of the trunk before replacing the carpeted surrounds.
5. Once the surrounds are reinstalled, test the operation of the trunk again to make sure there is no interference.

It should look like this when you are done:


Figure 10: Finished Installation, Right Side


Figure 11: Finished Installation, Left Side

Solaris94

Kangjin,

You are correct, there are only four non-stock holes to be drilled. My intention was to drill the least amount of holes as possible. Also, I wanted a reversible modification just in case I wanted to return to stock.

Elduderino,

On the mechanical stress of the back wall, I have been monitoring it for the past two weeks and so far no problem. Since each side see a constant force of 80lb on a 2" square area, the pressure is quite high. That's one reason why I had chosen the mounting point between two gussets. This part of the sheet metal is stiffer and stronger than a flat earea.

CCColtsicehockey

Solaris94 do you think that 120lbs gas springs will be enough to hold the trunk open with a spoiler. Also do they allow you to return the springs so that I could order a couple at once to make sure they will work.

Any one else have a guess of hold much the spoiler weighs

Solaris94

I have not considered getting stronger springs. You are welcome to try. I'm sure the mechanical points in the set up can withstand much stronger springs. The shear force those ball stud can withstand is up to 500LB. The trunk hinge is built in a way that it can take alot of stress at the pivot point. My only concern is the mounting point between the trunk lid and the hinge. A large force can flex the trunk lid, also I have to push the trunk down pretty hard when I want to close it.

Mc Master Carr is pretty easy about returns, so you guys should try larger spring force and return them if they don't work out. Personally, I just have no need for the trunk to open up all the way automatically under normal usage. Let me know if it works.

About the price, my whole set up cost me about $40 for all the hardware. I still have 8 barrel nuts left and a bunch of #10 locking and flat washers because they are not sold individually.

CCColtsicehockey

you say you have to push pretty hard to get the trunk to shut then do you really need two 80lbs springs. Do the springs you have hold the trunk in the open position with out any chance of it falling shut on you. I am wondering cause I think I may order 80, 100, and 120 as my range to see what works with the spoiler.

CCColtsicehockey

also your part number for the gas springs is wrong I was wondering what length you used cause I am getting ready to place my order.

CCColtsicehockey

for those looking to do this mod i have located an error in the part numbers. The gas springs that he used are part number 9416k15 and you need 2 of them. the ball socket fittings are part number 9416k74 and you need 4 of them.

CCColtsicehockey

my order total appears to be around 50 including shipping. also against what you have suggested after looking at the trunk there is no way that it is heavier than 120 pounds so I am going to go with two 60 pound springs because I do not want it to be to hard to shut.

e_lectro

2x60 should work, but you are thinking about static weight pushing straight down. When you start talking about piviot points and rotation of a rigid object around a fixed axis, you break out the physics books.

Most of the work done by the struts/tortion bars is when the trunk is first opened and the weight is further out. The least work is done when the trunk is fully open. Think basball bat in one hand help out and help up... it's easier to keep up than out.

It would be nice to see if we can go even lower, like 2x50 or 2x40. Beats having to slam the lid down.

Solaris94

Guys,

You do not need to go lower than 70lb each side.

At 80lb each side, my trunk is balanced at every point of the travel. The trunk will not fall on your head. And no large force is needed to shut the trunk. You do not have to slam the trunk. It works and feel like stock.

At 70lb each side, it worked pretty well but the trunk does not pop up as high as stock. I do have some dynamat in the trunk lid though , so buy several pairs and return those you don't need.

Remember the whole trunk lid is being held up with a 3" moment arm on each side. And the lid is about 16" deep. You have to get spring rate ~5 times the weight of the trunk. Trust me I have a BS in Physics and MS in Mechanical Engineering.

Thanks CCColt,

It was a good catch. You do need 4 of 9416k74 and 2 of 9416k15.

Administrator,

Is there any way you can make this change in the original post.

CCColtsicehockey

well i hope you can do it with lower than 70 cause i ordered two 40lbs and i have a spoiler. you made it sound in your one post "I have to push the trunk down pretty hard when I want to close it." which made me think you had to much power we will see. I really dont care if it pops up much cause mine doesnt really pop up at all right now.

CCColtsicehockey

the two 40lb springs i choose hold the trunk up but do not allow it to close very slowly it slams shut to be exact. the trunk is actually really heavy once you take off the factory springs. I am now going to add 100lbs and go with two 90lb springs. no pictures cause my camera battery was dead.

the instructions on how to install were very good though.

CCColtsicehockey

I received the 90lb springs today and they are they perfect answer to anyone show has the oem spoiler.

gsclifton

iTrader: (2)

I did mine yesterday and used 80lbs and have NO spoiler on the trunk. The 80lbs were perfect IMO. I will be adding a lip spoiler soon though.

Overall, this modification is very easy using this writeup. The most time consuming part was stripping the trunk apart to install the hardware.

Thanks!

CJams

The bars get in the way when trying to change speakers or doing any modifications under the rear deck like an amp rack, etc..


So how is this mod working out for everyone?

Solaris94

The rattling mainly comes from the plastic holder in the middle below the middle brake light. They hold the two torsion bars together and is attached to the rear deck. When the rear deck is moving, this plastic part would move also and cause chattering. It's loud enough when my 12" is bumping in the back that I can hear a buzzing sound from the front seat.

I have my gas springs for almost three months now and no problem. I periodically check all mounting point, and there have been no warpage, skewing, nothing.

yunginTL

anyone done this for the 2nd gen TL's?

kaliraver69

i tried to buy the 2X – Barrels, 1” Long, 5/16”-18 Thread – McMaster Carr P/N 90216A350 but they are only being sold as a pack of 10? If so does anyone get any of these parts extra willing to sell?

kaliraver69

I believe those part numbers ar backward since on the website for Mcmaster it lists them like this

2X – Gas Springs, 80 lbs Strength – McMaster Carr P/N 9416K15
4X – Ball Socket Fittings – Black Steel Chromate – McMaster Carr P/N 9416K74

just think that might help. BTW the actual part # for the 80lbs. gas spring is McMaster Carr P/N 9416K335.

noclownn

I didn't even notice that this was for a 2005 tsx and I ordered all the parts and I am ready to install just wondering if this will work on my 2006 tsx, any ideas?

otherguy

Yep, did my 2006 TSX just a few months ago. Install was a breeze and I'm very happy with the results.

n3ok318

iTrader: (1)

I plan on doing this mod and it totals $54.35 plus shipping and tax from McMaster.

Line Quantity Part Number Description Unit Price Total Price Ships
1 2
Each 9512K63 Ball Mounting Hardware 10mm Steel Ball Stud W/5/16"-18 X .75" L Thread $1.96 $3.92 Monday morning

2 1
Pack 90216A350 1" Length Barrel for Self-Locking Binding Screw, Packs of 10 $13.63 $13.63 Monday morning

3 2
Each 9512K95 Ball Mounting Hardware Steel, 90 Deg Angle Inverted Ball Bracket $1.94 $3.88 Monday morning

4 4
Each 9416K74 10 mm Steel Ball Socket for M6 Thread Gas Spring with Threaded Ends $2.00 $8.00 Monday morning

5 2
Each 9416K335 Gas Spring with Threaded Ends 80 Force, 10.71" Extended Length, 3.94" Stroke (Same as 9416K15) $12.46 $24.92 Monday morning

Merchandise $54.35

Hope everything goes smooth for me!

loweredCL

iTrader: (1)

I'm hoping someone can help me out. I was informed that this project was made into a DIY but I can't find it. Does anyone know where it is? I looked at the start of this one, but the pictures don't show up which makes it hard to do. Thanks..

Jonesi

All taken care of..

Good luck.

loweredCL

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for putting the pictures back on. Great job and pictures, but what I thought, the trunk is very different from the CL and I can't do the same setup. Thanks again!

Nismode

Any updates on this? No photos

k_than

anyone know if this will work on 2007 acura tl type s?