bennyjoebob

Hello all!

I bought this 96 Acura TL a few months ago with 170k. The car was in great shape and only cost 650! The car has been great except for one day i was driving it and the check engine light came on. The car idled rough, shifted rough, and stalled at a intersection. When i cycled to turn the car back on the check engine light was blinking very rapidly and the motor would turn over but not start. I waited about five mins then the car started right back up no issues until i got down the road a little bit. So i replaced the distributor (HUGE PAIN) drove the car around and everything seemed fine until i got home, turn it off, keyed it to the on position and the check engine light was back to flashing. Autozone was unable to pull a code from the car. Any help is greatly appreciated! Ive check spark plugs, wire and just decided is could be the distributor cap/rotor but apparently not. Main relay? Coil pack?

Timmy18

Hey Ben, could you either post a video of the CEL flashing or count them yourself?

It sounds like you're having short flashes: "check engine light was blinking very rapidly".

Each short flash is a a single digit number 1-9. Count each short flash until there is a pause. The # you counted will tell you what code you have. A long flash will indicate the first number of a 2 digit code and a shot flash followed after is the second digit of the 2 digit code.

Strange that AZ couldn't pull a code, these cars (96-99 TL) are OBD-II.

2.2CL, 2.3CL, 2.5TL, 3.0CL, 3.2CL, 3.2TL 3.5MDX & 3.5RL are all OBD-II

When Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) has been on or there is driveability problem, proceed as follows:

1. To use OBD II scan tool, proceed as follows:
   1. Connect scan tool to 16-pin data link connector (DLC) located behind or under the ashtray on center console.
   2. Turn ignition On.
   3. Follow scan tool manufacturer’s operating instructions to access DTCs.
2. To use MIL, proceed as follows:
   1. Connect SCS service connector special tool No. 07PAZ-0010100, or equivalent, to service check connector located under passenger’s side of dash.
   2. Turn ignition On.
      1. MIL will indicate DTC(s) by number of flashes

#2 is the old OBD way of pulling codes. Use a paper clip or bread tie and insert each metal tip into the connector to bridge the two sockets. You should be able to find the tiny blue connector under the dash on the passenger side. On my Vigor it is against the transmission tunnel.



Once you have jumped the connection turn the key on but not start. Count your flashes and refer to the chart:OBD2
MIL

P0101
50
MAF Circuit Range/Performance
P0102
50
MAF Circuit Low Input
P0103
50
MAF Circuit High Input
P0111
10
IAT Range/Performance Problem
P0112
10
IAT Circuit Low Input
P0113
10
IAT Circuit High Input
P0116
86
ECT Circuit Range/Performance
P0117
6
ECT Circuit Low Input
P0118
6
ECT Circuit High Input
P0122
7
TP Circuit Low Input
P0123
7
TP Circuit High Input
P0130
1
Primary HO2S Circuit Malfunction
P0133
61
Primary HO2S Slow Response
P0135
41
Primary HO2S Heater Circuit Malfunction
P0139
63
Secondary HO2S Slow Response
P0141
65
Secondary HO2S Heater Circuit Malfunction
P0171
45
System Too Lean
P0172
45
System Too Rich
P0300
76
Random Misfire Detected
P0301
71
Cylinder 1 Misfire
P0302
72
Cylinder 2 Misfire
P0303
73
Cylinder 3 Misfire
P0304
74
Cylinder 4 Misfire
P0305
75
Cylinder 5 Misfire
P0327
23
Front KS Circuit Low Input
P0328
23
Front KS Circuit High Input
P0332
53
Rear KS Circuit Low Input
P0333
53
Rear KS Circuit High Input
P0335
4
CKP Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0336
4
CKP Sensor Range/Performance
P0401
80
EGR Insufficient Flow
P0420
67
Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold
P0440
90
EVAP System Leak Detected
P0441
92
EVAP Improper Purge Flow
P0452
91
EVAP System Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0453
91
EVAP System Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Circuit High Input
P0500
17
VSS Circuit Low Input
P0505
14
IAC System Malfunction
P0700, P0715, P0720, P0725, P0730, P0740, P0753 & P0758
70
A/T
P1102
50
MAF Lower Than Expected
P1103
50
MAF Higher Than Expected
P1106
13
BARO Circuit Range/Performance
P1107
13
BARO Circuit Low Input
P1108
13
BARO Circuit High Input
P1121
7
TP Lower Than Expected
P1122
7
TP Higher Than Expected
P1297
20
ELD Circuit Low Input
P1298
20
ELD Circuit High Input
P1336
54
Crankshaft Speed Fluctuation Sensor Intermittent Interruption
P1337
54
Crankshaft Speed Fluctuation Sensor No Signal
P1359
8
CKP/TDC Sensor Circuit Connector Disconnection
P1361
8
TDC Sensor Intermittent Interruption
P1362
8
TDC Sensor No Signal
P1381
9
CYP Sensor Intermittent Interruption
P1382
9
CYP Sensor No Signal
P1459
92
EVAP Purge Flow Switch Malfunction
P1491
12
EGR Valve Lift Insufficient Detected
P1498
12
EGR Valve Lift Sensor High Voltage
P1508
14
IAC Valve Circuit Failure
P1660
70
A/T FI Data Line Failure
P1681
30
A/T FI Signal A Low Input
P1682
30
A/T FI Signal A High Input
P1686
31
A/T FI Signal B Low Input
P1687
31
A/T FI Signal B High Input


For an example, lets say you have a light that flashes long (slow) 3 times in a row and then one short flash followed by a long pause with no light and the 3 long repeated with the 1 short again. That would be code 31.
For an example, lets say you have a light that flashes short (fast) 4 times in a row and then a long pause with no light and the 4 short repeated. That would be code 4.
For an example, lets say you have a light that flashes long (slow) 1 time in a row and then a long pause with no light and the 1 long repeated. That would be code 10.


As you can see though, a few other details could be puled from a single code, like code 10, but only with a scan tool that reads you the P0 code specifically. Could be high or low voltage or a generic problem (likely no signal) but without the scan tool all we know is code 10,something is up with the IAT.


Let us know what is up! Sounds like a few things. I would check fuel pressure. When the car starts to run rough, is it after longer drives or short fast/ hard driving? How does it start idle and drive when cold? Honda's are known for their main relays getting hot from ambient and operational heat and cracking the solder connections, ether cutting power to the fuel pump or ignition. Once it cools the joints make contact again and all is good.

Also a big thing to check is the EGR. That can cause idle and performance issues. How to clean EGR on the Vigor is same as on TL2.5.

Timely Topics -- Cleaning Carbon Build-Up In The EGR Tube

bennyjoebob

Hello timmy!

Thank you for the response. So when i say the CEL is blinking rapidly i mean it is clicking so fast that i cannot count it. I also attempted to jump the connect but no prevail, i ordered a main relay and installed that but i am still having the issue. I've learned that if the CEL light is blinking if i take the key completely out of the ignition and wait a few seconds i can turn the key back to the on position and start with no issue. However, i was driving earlier when the check engine light came back on and i learned that the car would not rev past 3,000 RPM (Sounded like a bouncing off the rev limiter), idle rough and eventually stall. Upon attempt to restart the car i was met with the check engine light flashing rapidly and the motor turning over but not starting. Sounds like the car is detecting something and putting the car into limp mode, so i took it to a shop and they couldn't find anything. MAF? Speed sensor? Coil pack? I'm seriously lost