when to replace pads

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-28-2016, 08:44 PM
  #1  
Advanced
Thread Starter
 
ccfoodog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Age: 56
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
when to replace pads

I'm curious when (in mm) and why to replace pads?

My understanding is that the pads should work fine as long as they still have pad material, but when they get thin there is increased risk the pad could break.

I've heard the squeak-alarm starts around 1mm and if you get there you should definitely replace right away.

Thoughts?

Thanks,

-john

('08 RDX)
The following users liked this post:
justnspace (12-29-2016)
Old 12-29-2016, 08:26 AM
  #2  
Three Wheelin'
 
Tomtwtwtw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,515
Received 229 Likes on 204 Posts
That sounds about right.I haven't heard of any pads actually breaking, but the indicator will start dragging on the rotor once the pads are on their last legs and you will want to replace soon. Still, those indicators can break off from time to time, so don't underestimate the value of a good visual inspection from time to time - every 2-3 rotations, and eventually every rotation when they start to get close to the end. Best to pull off the wheel as well so you can check both the outer and inner pads. For what it's worth, I got about 75k on my original front pads and at 110k I'm still on my original rear pads. Replacement fronts are still holding strong and will probably not need replacing until 150-175k miles based on my last check. I do a lot of highway driving though, so YMMV.
The following users liked this post:
justnspace (12-29-2016)
Old 12-29-2016, 08:55 AM
  #3  
mrgold35
 
mrgold35's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: ABQ, NM
Posts: 6,716
Received 1,508 Likes on 1,176 Posts
There isn't a M.I.D. code for brake fluid; but, it should also be done every 3 years if this is the first time your 08 needed any brake work.
Old 12-29-2016, 10:14 AM
  #4  
Advanced
Thread Starter
 
ccfoodog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Age: 56
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Thanks. The reason I ask is the dealer suggested I replace the pads with 3mm left which seemed a bit soon to me. I'll get the fluids done when I change the pads.

Thanks,

-john
Old 12-29-2016, 11:29 AM
  #5  
Pro
 
Kaputnik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 613
Received 72 Likes on 63 Posts
Don't know how handy you are with cars, but changing pads and brake fluid (gravity bleed is all that is needed) are a piece of cake on this car. Had my rotors turned for $5/each at a local shop.
Old 12-29-2016, 02:40 PM
  #6  
Pro
 
DRR98's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 723
Received 43 Likes on 39 Posts
Be sure to inspect both pads at each wheel. The inboard and outboard pads can wear at different rates. At worst, that could allow the inboard pad to wear out without an audible.

And break in your brakes. Season the rotors and bed the pads. Your brakes will last longer and function better.

More info at...

Technical Information - Baer Brakes

Scroll down to rotor seasoning and pad bedding.
Old 01-22-2017, 12:56 PM
  #7  
Instructor
 
chipmunk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: 408, CA
Age: 41
Posts: 193
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
I just had the front pads in my '08 replaced at around 60,000 miles. They were still stopping fine, but the squeal at low speed braking was driving me nuts.
Old 02-02-2017, 05:51 PM
  #8  
Advanced
 
stray_pube's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 2 Posts
I changed brakes and cut rotors for the first time at 112K. Then again, I do mostly highway driving so probably the exception rather than the normal interval.
Old 02-03-2017, 09:01 AM
  #9  
Three Wheelin'
 
Tomtwtwtw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,515
Received 229 Likes on 204 Posts
That sounds about right. I did mine at 75k, but the previous owner (first 48k miles) likely did more city driving than me. I'm now at 111k and the new pads look like they'll be around for a while. Still on original rears with plenty of pad left.
Old 03-23-2017, 05:45 PM
  #10  
Advanced
 
matt21484's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Colorado
Age: 40
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
For those of you who've changed rotors on your own, what was it like removing the retaining screw on the hub? I've hear it's a real PITA getting them off and I'm about to tackle a full rotor/pad job on my wife's 10 RDX
Old 03-24-2017, 08:42 AM
  #11  
Three Wheelin'
 
Tomtwtwtw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,515
Received 229 Likes on 204 Posts
It all depends on what elements the rotor has been exposed to. You're in Colorado - I imagine your car has seen some snow in its day. Worst case just get a special drill bit for digging out screws and you're golden - you do not need to replace the retaining screw so no reason not to go to town to get it out.
Old 03-25-2017, 02:43 PM
  #12  
Pro
 
DRR98's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 723
Received 43 Likes on 39 Posts
impact driver

TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece



Old 03-27-2017, 10:04 AM
  #13  
Racer
 
Jdrum1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: West Texas
Posts: 312
Received 21 Likes on 19 Posts
Originally Posted by matt21484
For those of you who've changed rotors on your own, what was it like removing the retaining screw on the hub? I've hear it's a real PITA getting them off and I'm about to tackle a full rotor/pad job on my wife's 10 RDX
I did mine yesterday, and they came out fairly easy with a few blows of an impact screwdriver (and a good soaking in PB Blaster).

That said, my RDX has spent its entire life in Texas.




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:14 PM.