I've been throwing the dreaded P0401 code for some time now (insufficient EGR flow, that is), so I set about cleaning last week. It was indeed 100% clogged, and the amount of carbon built up in the port was quite a shock - it was impassably clogged with shit for 3" or so. The aftermath of the cleaning - silky smooth idle and a bit of low end power back that I'd been missing. The best mod I've done yet! For those of you throwing this code, check out this how-to, it's nearly identical for the 3.0:
I installed the magnaflow 14816 with 2.5" custom piping several weeks ago, as has been done here many times, and I'm very pleased with the results. I have (generic) headers sitting in the box here now and I'll upload pics and a sound clip after that install.
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or you can just have acura do it for free if you own a 97' 3.0L. I got to drive a 3g TL for a week, had the whole emissions system cleaned, EGR replaced, and the car washed.
Originally Posted by APKhaos
Here's an update on the Acura Emissions Warranty Extension.
The following is extracted from a letter from Acura HQ in Torrence CA, dated Winter 2006-2007, titled Emissions Warranty Extension Reminder.
- Models covered are some 1995, 1996 & 1997 vehicles.
- For these vehicles, Federal and CA Emissions Warranties have been extended to 14 years from the date of original sale, or 150,000 miles, whichever comes first.
- If your vehicle fails a state emissions test, or if the CEL comes on, take your vehicle to an Acura dealer.
- Under this warranty, the dealer will repair any emissions-related problem free of charge.
- If you have paid for parts or repairs you believe should have been eligible for coverage under this warranty extension, please submit copies of the repair orders and any supporting documentation to
American Honda Motor Co
Acura Client Services
PO Box 2964
Torrance, CA 90509-2964
800 382 2238
I had this problem with my 138,000 mile 1997. When I read on this thread that there might have been some kind of warranty, I checked with the local dealer. They confirmed the warranty, and offered to see the car immediately, but made it very clear that THE CEL LIGHT MUST BE ON for the car to be accepted for this emissions warranty.
There is a standard procedure and a parts kit for the EGR problem which includes removing the manifold, cleaning and modifying the EGR ports with the addition of an EGR pipe, and replacing the EGR valve. All free, and they threw in a loaner car for the day. Nice deal all round!
Hope this help some other owners!
97' 3.0 CL
03' 1.8 Corolla
"Octopus Prime is nice, but I like Sockwave." -my son
haven't had to log in and ask for help in a while but alas, the 97 cl 3.0 is acting up again. getting the insufficient flow code and i wanted to try it myself instead of paying the stealership to fix it. here's my question, has anyone ever gotten the egr code and it not be correct? for instance, could a bad sensor (the one under the throttle body) cause the egr code to come up for some reason? i tried just spraying throttle body cleaner into the throttle without taking the whole intake off and when i unplug the sensor under the throttle body while its running the engine smooths out and seems to run without shaking.
oh, and i've got about 218K miles on mine so im not eligible for the recall
Last edited by eze18772; 10-18-2009 at 03:05 PM.
i think it will need to be a bit more of a drastic approach than just spraying into your tb. You will need to remove your EGR and physicaly clean it. Before doing that sea foam the car then clean he EGR. You should be good then.
To get the full effect of the Seafoam, you'll want to do the whole shebang. I bought two cans and used them as follows:
- one whole in a tank of gas
- half in the crankcase
- the second half I divided mentally into thirds, (very) slowly pouring the first 2/3's through the brake booster line with the car running, and then dumping the last 1/3 in all at once to stall the vehicle
I let it sit a bit longer than I should, prob an hr, because we were working on other things. I had to crank the car probably a dozen times before it started, and then rev for a bit to smooth it out. My buddy and I did it at the same time, and the shit was absolutely hilarious. We left my entire street end to end filled with smoke, and then pulled out into rush hour traffic looking like we both had badly blown head gaskets. After driving the shit out of our cars for 20 miles or so (the smoke stops after a mile or so), we immediately changed the oil. I think its an extremely worthwhile process. I have a '98 3.0 with 86K, and smoothed out my idle incredibly.
If you put it just in your gas, it will work on your fuel system only. With a car of your mileage, I think that I will be extremely worthwhile to do the whole process...you'll probably be impressed with the results. As others have mentioned, though, you must clean the EGR port by hand. This is not difficult - remove throttle and hoses from intake manifold, then remove bolts from manifold. You will surely see the clogged EGR valve in the bottom right portion of the manifold. Clean it out, and while you're at, use throttle spray to clean the IM well, as well as the throttle itself. Reinstall, do not overtighten IM bolts, and use the sequence provided in the above TL demo.
yeah, I'm not too sure about a whole can of seafoam in the tank of gas. Directions and everything I've seen on the web say 1/3rd in the gas tank, and optimally 1/3rd brake booster line and 1/3rd in oil. Did mine this way and worked out fine. Perhaps what you could do alternatively is do the traditional 1/3rd in the gas and then add a bottle of fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank at the same time (like Gumout).
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