99CL 2.3 O2 sensors
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
99CL 2.3 O2 sensors
Hello
Tried the search but didn't find my car.
Just ordered both O2 sensors for my 99 CL 2.3. RockAuto has them cheap.
They sell two different wrenches for these: a deep socket and a crowfoot.
I can't get under the car right now but I know that both sensors are on the top of the pipe.
Do I need the crowfoot to get them out, or is there room for a regular wrench?
Second question: Should I use anti-seize (permatex) on the new threads?
thanks for any response
Tried the search but didn't find my car.
Just ordered both O2 sensors for my 99 CL 2.3. RockAuto has them cheap.
They sell two different wrenches for these: a deep socket and a crowfoot.
I can't get under the car right now but I know that both sensors are on the top of the pipe.
Do I need the crowfoot to get them out, or is there room for a regular wrench?
Second question: Should I use anti-seize (permatex) on the new threads?
thanks for any response
#2
Intermediate
Thread Starter
To finish out the thread:
'99CL 2.3 5MT
Both sensors are not especially hard to get to and I used a 22mm combination wrench. You don't need to buy the specialty tools.
The rear one was rusted in place and took a lot of work to get out. It screwed up the threads enough that I had to buy a $10 thread chaser to clean them up.
BTW, I drove about 3 miles without the rear sensor in place. Researched it online first and it ran OK and didn't hurt anything.
Front sensor was tight but came out easily once I broke it loose.
I did use a little anti-seize on the threads.
The car wasn't running badly but now does idle smoother and it eliminated a small stumble I'd sometimes get when accelerating.
Had the code cleared and CEL turned off and in 3 days it hasn't come back on.
I used the Ultra-Power sensors, $20 each at RockAuto.
'99CL 2.3 5MT
Both sensors are not especially hard to get to and I used a 22mm combination wrench. You don't need to buy the specialty tools.
The rear one was rusted in place and took a lot of work to get out. It screwed up the threads enough that I had to buy a $10 thread chaser to clean them up.
BTW, I drove about 3 miles without the rear sensor in place. Researched it online first and it ran OK and didn't hurt anything.
Front sensor was tight but came out easily once I broke it loose.
I did use a little anti-seize on the threads.
The car wasn't running badly but now does idle smoother and it eliminated a small stumble I'd sometimes get when accelerating.
Had the code cleared and CEL turned off and in 3 days it hasn't come back on.
I used the Ultra-Power sensors, $20 each at RockAuto.
Last edited by Randy99CL; 09-22-2015 at 11:50 AM.
#3
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I used the Ultra-Power sensors, $20 each at RockAuto.
It's been almost 2 weeks since I installed them and I've not gotten a CEL. I've heard that some aftermarket sensors aren't compatible with our cars...but these work well and passed the E-check.
It's been almost 2 weeks since I installed them and I've not gotten a CEL. I've heard that some aftermarket sensors aren't compatible with our cars...but these work well and passed the E-check.
#4
thanks for info..i was considering getting the Denso ones they have both front and rear..a little more money but mayb worth it??
these are the next parts i gotta get for this thing
these are the next parts i gotta get for this thing
#6
The sensors are really hard to get at unless the car is elevated. You do need the correct O2 tool. Watch which brand you buy as the ends can be different. Getting the plug to unplug is a bear, and sometimes the hardest part of the job. DO NOT ever, use a threat lube or sealant. Ex shops always use a bit of heat to break them loose before pulling them out.
#7
yes both are under the car..the back one is kinda in the middle of the car if that makes sense and the front one was closer to the front.
after he got them out he said my fronts were bad and the back one was ok but of course i changed em both ..
good luck
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