When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Joined the gang and changed the spark plugs in my 2007 RDX as well! Toms' pictures were spot on and helped a lot. There's another bolt that's on the right that you have to remove. Had to put a little bit of muscle into it when putting the IC back in as the front hose was being annoying. Total time was an hour and a half. Go slow and be careful.
Recommend that those doing this have a 10mm socket, 1/4 extension, knuckle joints for the 1/4 to get all those bolts off. I put a magnet on my 1/4 extension to give it more magnet power and made sure nothing will fall into some deep RDX engine well abyss. I also splurged and picked up a magnet spark plug socket instead of the rubber type. Easier to work with. Also used a little anti-seize on the threads of the plugs. Not really necessary but recommend it.
2007 RDX, IC already removed. Notes when changing out spark plugs
I got the best deal on spark plugs at Rock Auto for $10/each including shipping and they got to me really fast! NGK SILKR8AS also NGK 1402 https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2663300
This was my second spark plug change after 200k miles! RDX still running strong so far!
Last edited by RangeRider49er; 07-03-2015 at 12:41 PM.
Reason: add comment
Thanks for the excellent write up. Plug change went smoothly today. Not as quickly as some of you. But success. Only $40 for the plugs from rock auto delivered to my door.
First all of thanks to everyone that contributed to this DIY. Just finished spark plugs replacement on 2009 RDX with 117k miles that we just purchased for my daughter.
I wanted to share couple of items that might be useful to others. For me it was easier to remove vacuum lines and electrical connections and keep bypass valve attached to IC. As everyone mentioned before, second bolt on the left side of the bypass valve is hard to get to + looks like there is rubber gasket between Valve Body and IC. Also I think this procedure in listed in Acura FSM.
Attached picture shows in more details 5 things that need to be disconnected:
a) Vacuum lines #1,2,3
b.) Air bypass connection tube #4
c.) Boost sensor #5
Last two pictures show 3/8 flexible extension bars that I used to get to bolts behind IC. I find this very useful for hard to reach bolts that are low torque (20-30 lb-ft).
Overall I think this entire Spark Plug job could be done in ~ 1hr with right tools. This time I also changed transfer case fluid and cleaned IC so my total time was 2hrs.
Once the IC is removed, you don't really need pics. In front of you you'll see the tops of the 4 coil insulators, with each held in place by a small bolt (10 mm? Someone correct me if wrong). For each one - unplug plastic wire harness, remove bolt, pull out the insulator, get a 12" extension with a spark plug socket and reach down there to unscrew the plug. Follow reverse process to install new plug and put the insulators back in place. Make sure engine is fully cool and turn gently until you know the new plug is threaded properly. Last thing you want is a stripped thread for your spark plug. Then have all kinds of fun trying to get the IC back installed.
No need to number the coil packs, they are all exactly the same and the cables running to them don't have enough slack to be able to criss-cross them. Once you get that IC off it is really one of the easiest jobs you can do on the car - I'd say easier than an oil change. That said, having that IC there means I'm already not looking forward to changing my spark plugs again, and that's still a year and change away. haha
Just changed my plugs yesterday at 117k mi. Thank you to the OP and all of the subsequent contributors with updated pics and advice. The one piece of advice that I will leave is to turn around the turbo outlet hose clamp from the driver side to the passenger side for future access. With my big hands, loosening the clamp screw on the driver side is tough. Turn the clamp 180 degrees to access from the right side where there is a LOT more room.
04-08-2015, 12:27 PM
