Dropped the German Suit for an American Bowtie
10-21-2016, 10:17 AM
#81
Moderator
Thread Starter
Yeah, the chrome housing LEDs are a bit cheaper, but the black housings look so much better.
Maybe they'll come down in price when I'm closer to buying
LED taillights are a much cheaper upgrade, luckily. Just requires a tiny bit of wiring for the OE swap.
Maybe they'll come down in price when I'm closer to buying
LED taillights are a much cheaper upgrade, luckily. Just requires a tiny bit of wiring for the OE swap.
10-21-2016, 11:12 AM
#82
Ex-OEM King
Just wait for someone to wreck their truck and grab it off of ebay.
10-21-2016, 11:35 AM
#83
Moderator
Thread Starter
That's an option too. Going to be tough to find the black housing LEDs, especially if they know what they retail for.
10-24-2016, 08:30 AM
#84
Moderator
Thread Starter
Yesterday was bath day for both trucks. Wife's desperately needed it.
Need to find a solution for our crap water, didn't have the time to wax the truck, so there is a bit of hard water, water spots left behind.
Also, passed my twin on the highway this morning. Still debating on what I want to do next with the truck. Going to try to convince the CFO that we need a bedcover & maybe a 1-2" drop in the rear to level it out.
Need to find a solution for our crap water, didn't have the time to wax the truck, so there is a bit of hard water, water spots left behind.
Also, passed my twin on the highway this morning. Still debating on what I want to do next with the truck. Going to try to convince the CFO that we need a bedcover & maybe a 1-2" drop in the rear to level it out.
Last edited by 00TL-P3.2; 10-24-2016 at 08:42 AM.
10-24-2016, 09:04 AM
#85
Ex-OEM King
Yesterday was bath day for both trucks. Wife's desperately needed it.
Need to find a solution for our crap water, didn't have the time to wax the truck, so there is a bit of hard water, water spots left behind.
Also, passed my twin on the highway this morning. Still debating on what I want to do next with the truck. Going to try to convince the CFO that we need a bedcover & maybe a 1-2" LIFT in the FRONT to level it out.
Need to find a solution for our crap water, didn't have the time to wax the truck, so there is a bit of hard water, water spots left behind.
Also, passed my twin on the highway this morning. Still debating on what I want to do next with the truck. Going to try to convince the CFO that we need a bedcover & maybe a 1-2" LIFT in the FRONT to level it out.
Looking good!
There's not much you can do about the water aside from getting an expensive filtration system for your home. If it's that bad, it may be worth it to do it.
10-24-2016, 09:10 AM
#86
I'd honestly suggest not lowering the rear...give it time to settle...I can tell you that after 4 months with the topper and some tools...my rear end is sagging to the point of having saggy ass syndrome. Just wait it out! With some mulch runs to home depot, it'll even out!
10-24-2016, 09:52 AM
#87
Moderator
Thread Starter
Thanks, I'd rather it be leveled in the rear, than lift the front; maybe some 1" spacers to fill out the wheel wells. First vehicle in a long time for me with a huge aftermarket support behind it.
Plenty of other things to come ahead of a level. May look into upgrading the shocks, rear at least, to help with the rear end sidestep.
Plenty of other things to come ahead of a level. May look into upgrading the shocks, rear at least, to help with the rear end sidestep.
10-24-2016, 09:57 AM
#89
Ex-OEM King
The biggest reason I recommend lifting the front instead of lowering the rear is that the rear is higher on purpose, because it is supposed to sag when you load it up. If you lower it, you effectively lose payload capacity (a functional attribute) for a cosmetic change (not functional, actually negative function) and that's not good for a truck and is especially bad when towing a heavy load behind it. A minor 1" lift in the front will hardly be noticeable from a driving standpoint but would both give you the look you want of it being level and not reduce the cargo capacity of your truck.
JMO.
JMO.
10-24-2016, 10:03 AM
#91
Moderator
Thread Starter
Good point & hadn't considered that on losing tow capability. Will be waiting that one out for a bit, since it's not a big deal.
Things I want to do sooner: bed cover (debating between folding Bak MX4 & roll/lock Pade-Edwards Switchblade) they're about the same price & both appear easily removable & upgrade head/tail/fog lights.
Things I want to do sooner: bed cover (debating between folding Bak MX4 & roll/lock Pade-Edwards Switchblade) they're about the same price & both appear easily removable & upgrade head/tail/fog lights.
10-24-2016, 10:05 AM
#92
The biggest reason I recommend lifting the front instead of lowering the rear is that the rear is higher on purpose, because it is supposed to sag when you load it up. If you lower it, you effectively lose payload capacity (a functional attribute) for a cosmetic change (not functional, actually negative function) and that's not good for a truck and is especially bad when towing a heavy load behind it. A minor 1" lift in the front will hardly be noticeable from a driving standpoint but would both give you the look you want of it being level and not reduce the cargo capacity of your truck.
JMO.
JMO.
my Hispanic neighbors drop their trucks and then have to rent or use some one else's truck to haul shit or tow.
10-24-2016, 10:44 AM
#93
Ex-OEM King
10-24-2016, 05:11 PM
#94
Team Owner
Yesterday was bath day for both trucks. Wife's desperately needed it.
Need to find a solution for our crap water, didn't have the time to wax the truck, so there is a bit of hard water, water spots left behind.
Also, passed my twin on the highway this morning. Still debating on what I want to do next with the truck. Going to try to convince the CFO that we need a bedcover & maybe a 1-2" drop in the rear to level it out.
Need to find a solution for our crap water, didn't have the time to wax the truck, so there is a bit of hard water, water spots left behind.
Also, passed my twin on the highway this morning. Still debating on what I want to do next with the truck. Going to try to convince the CFO that we need a bedcover & maybe a 1-2" drop in the rear to level it out.
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10-26-2016, 09:24 AM
#97
Ex-OEM King
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justnspace (10-26-2016)
10-27-2016, 04:15 PM
#98
Moderator
Thread Starter
To stop pirating the Cochese's minivan thread, looking over on TRS at HID retrofits. Pretty sold on the D2S 4.0s after seeing the results from the other forum, just not sure on the ballast & bulbs....
- Morimoto Mini D2S 4.0 projectors
- 35w or 55w ballast??
- D2S Osram Xenarc 66240 CBI 5500k or 6000k?
- Morimoto Mini D2S 4.0 projectors
- 35w or 55w ballast??
- D2S Osram Xenarc 66240 CBI 5500k or 6000k?
10-27-2016, 04:21 PM
#99
Senior Moderator
10-27-2016, 04:26 PM
#100
Senior Moderator
To stop pirating the Cochese's minivan thread, looking over on TRS at HID retrofits. Pretty sold on the D2S 4.0s after seeing the results from the other forum, just not sure on the ballast & bulbs....
- Morimoto Mini D2S 4.0 projectors
- 35w or 55w ballast??
- D2S Osram Xenarc 66240 CBI 5500k or 6000k?
- Morimoto Mini D2S 4.0 projectors
- 35w or 55w ballast??
- D2S Osram Xenarc 66240 CBI 5500k or 6000k?
I am every bit happy with the 35w and cant believe how bright they are, especially with a quality projector. They make the ones in my TL seem average. Id go 5500 but thats me. As soon as i get mine installed and about 30 hrs on them ill post a pic of output.
10-27-2016, 04:35 PM
#101
Moderator
Thread Starter
As long as this new projector can hold up to the 55w (too new to know yet??? )
I am every bit happy with the 35w and cant believe how bright they are, especially with a quality projector. They make the ones in my TL seem average. Id go 5500 but thats me. As soon as i get mine installed and about 30 hrs on them ill post a pic of output.
I am every bit happy with the 35w and cant believe how bright they are, especially with a quality projector. They make the ones in my TL seem average. Id go 5500 but thats me. As soon as i get mine installed and about 30 hrs on them ill post a pic of output.
10-27-2016, 05:37 PM
#103
Team Owner
As long as this new projector can hold up to the 55w (too new to know yet??? )
I am every bit happy with the 35w and cant believe how bright they are, especially with a quality projector. They make the ones in my TL seem average. Id go 5500 but thats me. As soon as i get mine installed and about 30 hrs on them ill post a pic of output.
I am every bit happy with the 35w and cant believe how bright they are, especially with a quality projector. They make the ones in my TL seem average. Id go 5500 but thats me. As soon as i get mine installed and about 30 hrs on them ill post a pic of output.
They are bright as fuk but not sure if it is worth the risk. I am thinking about switching it back to the 35w for her.
10-27-2016, 05:39 PM
#104
Team Owner
Most, if not all OEM HID ballast are attached to the housing.
The good thing is nowadays the ballasts are tiny compare to what it used to be, you can literally put them anywhere outside the headlight.
10-27-2016, 09:19 PM
#105
Senior Moderator
My ballast is mounted to the bottom of the headlight where the stock ballast would go if it came with HIDs. Did i put what in? HIDs? Yea, i retrofitted projectors, and HIDs in. I have the morimoto elite xb35 D2s bulbs in right now, but i have the CBIs 5500k. Im half tempted to try the new CBHs
10-27-2016, 09:20 PM
#106
Senior Moderator
What 55w kit are you running? Are you using a Relay? You shouldnt have that issue unless there is something wrong.
10-27-2016, 09:21 PM
#107
Senior Moderator
10-28-2016, 11:17 AM
#108
Team Owner
Forgot what brand but one of those from ebay with a lot of reviews.
In theory with relay it should not have any problem and it seems it is still a relatively common issue with aftermarket 55w even with relay after some research
10-28-2016, 05:01 PM
#109
Ex-OEM King
To stop pirating the Cochese's minivan thread, looking over on TRS at HID retrofits. Pretty sold on the D2S 4.0s after seeing the results from the other forum, just not sure on the ballast & bulbs....
- Morimoto Mini D2S 4.0 projectors
- 35w or 55w ballast??
- D2S Osram Xenarc 66240 CBI 5500k or 6000k?
- Morimoto Mini D2S 4.0 projectors
- 35w or 55w ballast??
- D2S Osram Xenarc 66240 CBI 5500k or 6000k?
Well the OEM headlights meet DOT requirements and were approved when the whole truck was approved. HID retro is not DOT approved so why would one have more glare than the other? The issue with trucks is that the projector sits very high so you are never above the cutoff. The issue isn't with the type of headlight but the application of it.
10-28-2016, 08:35 PM
#110
Senior Moderator
yah i got a relay. Headlight is still flakering... both.
Forgot what brand but one of those from ebay with a lot of reviews.
In theory with relay it should not have any problem and it seems it is still a relatively common issue with aftermarket 55w even with relay after some research
Forgot what brand but one of those from ebay with a lot of reviews.
In theory with relay it should not have any problem and it seems it is still a relatively common issue with aftermarket 55w even with relay after some research
10-28-2016, 08:41 PM
#111
10-28-2016, 08:44 PM
#112
Senior Moderator
I personally would do 35W and 5500k (4300K or 5000K would be more ideal) bulbs. CBI's are expensive but awesome. Normal D2S bulbs do just fine though.
Well the OEM headlights meet DOT requirements and were approved when the whole truck was approved. HID retro is not DOT approved so why would one have more glare than the other? The issue with trucks is that the projector sits very high so you are never above the cutoff. The issue isn't with the type of headlight but the application of it.
Well the OEM headlights meet DOT requirements and were approved when the whole truck was approved. HID retro is not DOT approved so why would one have more glare than the other? The issue with trucks is that the projector sits very high so you are never above the cutoff. The issue isn't with the type of headlight but the application of it.
A, A properly aligned headlight is aimed so that it is pointing down. 25 feet from a wall the light/cutoff should be 2" below the center of the light. The further the distance the lower it becomes so that oncoming cars arent blinded. If it were because of your idea every vehicle on the road that sat higher than you would produce glare which simply isnt the case.
B, I have been in my friends 6" Lifted duramax and have had glare no matter where we were coming at it. Glare has more to do with the design of the housing than because the truck sits higher.
C, Pickup trucks score poorly in headlight tests | Fox News
10-28-2016, 08:49 PM
#113
Senior Moderator
Yep, they are bright with tons of glare as well. The LED projector modded with different lenses can produce some really nice cutoff.
Last edited by fsttyms1; 10-28-2016 at 08:57 PM.
10-31-2016, 12:48 PM
#115
Team Owner
It has projector but they suck as far as brightness and visibility.
I have noticed most of the Acura's LED have bad glares too. Maybe that is the one of the reasons many other manufactures are choosing the reflector type over the projectors for their LEDs.
11-01-2016, 04:31 PM
#116
Moderator
Thread Starter
Showed the wife the dual projector headlights & didn't get an immediate shoot-down of it. 
Not sure if I should go for this or a bedcover first. About the same price when finished...
Not sure if I should go for this or a bedcover first. About the same price when finished...
11-01-2016, 04:43 PM
#117
Team Owner
If you can convince her based on the looks. Google some retrofit HID night pictures vs. Halogen and let her know it is for safety.
She cant say no if it is about your safety or at least I hope she wont say no
She cant say no if it is about your safety or at least I hope she wont say no
11-01-2016, 05:01 PM
#118
Moderator
Thread Starter
Good point, had mentioned that they'd be a good bit brighter. Treading lightly
11-02-2016, 09:03 AM
#120
Moderator
Thread Starter
Pretty much!
Can't
a $900 mod. It'll happen, just patience.
Can't
a $900 mod. It'll happen, just patience.