2013 Subaru BRZ Kimchi Edition
#121
Burning Brakes
Great pictures! How about some SS brake lines for the track day to go along with new pads and fluid? That's what my track-junkie friend always recommends for first track days.
#122
The Third Ball
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Los Angeles, Ca
Age: 45
Posts: 49,124
Received 4,824 Likes
on
2,571 Posts
#123
The Third Ball
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Los Angeles, Ca
Age: 45
Posts: 49,124
Received 4,824 Likes
on
2,571 Posts
For your first track day you'll be fine.
When I did mine I was told bring brake fluid just in case...never used it.
I did that track day 2 years ago I think...and Im still on the same pads...of course my car only has 16k on it. BUT...I was going in excess of 100mph and quickly stopping 2 tons of piggy...that was for 5 - 20 minutes sessions.
When I did mine I was told bring brake fluid just in case...never used it.
I did that track day 2 years ago I think...and Im still on the same pads...of course my car only has 16k on it. BUT...I was going in excess of 100mph and quickly stopping 2 tons of piggy...that was for 5 - 20 minutes sessions.
#125
Senior Moderator
Nice pics!
#126
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
For your first track day you'll be fine.
When I did mine I was told bring brake fluid just in case...never used it.
I did that track day 2 years ago I think...and Im still on the same pads...of course my car only has 16k on it. BUT...I was going in excess of 100mph and quickly stopping 2 tons of piggy...that was for 5 - 20 minutes sessions.
When I did mine I was told bring brake fluid just in case...never used it.
I did that track day 2 years ago I think...and Im still on the same pads...of course my car only has 16k on it. BUT...I was going in excess of 100mph and quickly stopping 2 tons of piggy...that was for 5 - 20 minutes sessions.
I'm probably going to just change out the fluid and go since it's cheap and simple. Not a bad to change it for DD-ing anyway.
The guy said the pads and lines definitely are not a must for the first timer. He said that I'll probably be running with only 4 other cars for my class.
It does look really pretty clean on that car. Maybe because I'm a fan of that Lexus Predator grill.
Thanks guys
The following users liked this post:
JS + XES (01-07-2014)
#128
In the Mid-South meow
iTrader: (2)
Great photos! Love that tach. It must sound so nice in the 7k + RPM range.
The following users liked this post:
JS + XES (01-07-2014)
#129
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
The pearl white is my favorite color. Regretted so much for getting a black car. Never again!
The car never has gone above +5k unfortunately. Can't wait to hit that magical 1k miles and drive like a crazy monkey everyday.
#130
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
I dont know if that spoiler will cover the holes from the factory spoiler.
#132
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
#133
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
No worries guys. I won't spend a dollar on cosmetic mods for a year or more. It honestly looks perfect at the moment.
I've made a side funding for mods. These are couple things I want:
- Wheels
- Tires
- Coilovers
- a lot of those suspension support mods
I likely won't touch the engine for a long time. If anything, I will go with a FI kit down the road.
I've made a side funding for mods. These are couple things I want:
- Wheels
- Tires
- Coilovers
- a lot of those suspension support mods
I likely won't touch the engine for a long time. If anything, I will go with a FI kit down the road.
The following users liked this post:
civicdrivr (01-08-2014)
#134
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
A shorter final drive will wake the car up. I'd add that to your list if I were you. Don't bother spending the money on the Cusco kit though, they use factory Toyota parts and mark them up 30%.
#135
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
This is the final drive you talking about, right? 4.55 vs 4.10 stock.
Which brand do you recommend? Seems like people are extremely satisfied by the change. Probably making the car peppier / bringing up the mid range tq and responsiveness will be one good alternative way to FI-ing.
#136
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
When will your car live up to the thread title?
The following 2 users liked this post by CLtotheTL32:
civicdrivr (01-08-2014),
crazyasiantl (01-08-2014)
#137
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
NEVER
#138
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
This is one option for 4.556 FD, I guess?
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/a...150749300.html
Where are you Mr. Lightness is a sickness?
Ah, found the master thread on it.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49288
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/a...150749300.html
Where are you Mr. Lightness is a sickness?
Ah, found the master thread on it.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49288
I just recently completed a final gear swap in my FR-S a couple days ago and have another thread going on that. What I want to do here is give the recipe I followed all in one place.
For reference, when I refer to a "carrier", I mean specifically the whole pumpkin assembly with the actual differential installed in it. Carrier, pumpkin, third member, same thing.
Note for turbo guys: If you're looking to swap to a taller gear ratio, just go get yourself a carrier from an IS300. You want either an M98 (3.9 final drive) or M85 (3.7) code. These are the LSD variants for the automatic and manual IS300, respectively. Both of these are a direct swap into our cars, the only trick is to pop out the axle stubs (the wheels on the sides) as our axles simply spline straight into the carrier. You still may consider overhauling the carrier/differential depending on the condition yours is in, but otherwise you can stop reading here.
OPTIONAL - Donor Carrier
What I did to minimize my downtime was to obtain one of the carriers mentioned in the note above, and had my gears installed in that. Added bonus of having a second working carrier in case something goes Horribly Wrong.
Optional Cost: ~$300 depending on condition
Meat and Potatoes - Ring and Pinion
Give Spence a call at weirperformance.com. Tell him that you want an 8" ring and pinion set for a mark 3 Supra and that you intend to use it in an IS300 or FR-S/BRZ carrier. Then just make up your mind what ratio you want. He also sells a shim kit that I highly recommend for $15. It has all the shims you could possibly need to get the install right.
Cost: $225 for ring and pinion, $15 for shims, plus shipping
Fiddly Bits - Seals and Nuts
For these I just visited a couple different Toyota parts distributor sites. Here's the breakdown of what I got for my installation:
90179-20018 Pinion nut
41231-24010 Pinion spacer
90311-43009 Side seals (x 2)
41222-22010 Ring gear lock tabs (x 5)
90311-38070 Pinion seal
Note: My carrier was basically brand new so I didn't need to replace any bearings. These tend to be rather expensive (pinion bearing I think was about ~$80, not sure on side bearings). If you think you need to do the bearings, you may as well buy Spence's installation kit. It should contain all of these parts plus the bearings. Not sure on the price there though, but it's on par with acquiring the parts individually.
Other note: If you're looking to make Balls-Out Torques, you may consider getting a solid spacer in lieu of the OEM pinion spacer. Also available from Weir, also part of the installation kit.
Cost: ~$100 without bearings, plus shipping
Putting it together - Labor Cost
4 hours for the ring and pinion install, 2-3 hours for carrier install. I'd recommend a dedicated differential shop for this just because they should be guaranteed to get the setup dead on. Labor costs vary widely, and you could easily save a couple hundred bucks by installing the carrier in your car yourself. I chose to let the Professionals handle it all.
Cost: ~$700 if the shop does everything, ~$400 if you install your own carrier, $0 if you're a Professional
Price Breakdowns
Bare Minimum (just required parts, all installations done yourself): $350
Bare Minimum + ring and pinion installed by shop: ~$750
My Total (spare carrier, no bearings, all installation handled by shop): ~$1100
Theoretical Max (all parts, all services done by shop): ~$1500
So there you have it! Let me know if you think I missed anything or need further clarification on something. Big thanks to @37, @Jeff Lange and anyone else I may have forgotten for helping me figure out what ratio I wanted and what installation parts to buy.
For reference, when I refer to a "carrier", I mean specifically the whole pumpkin assembly with the actual differential installed in it. Carrier, pumpkin, third member, same thing.
Note for turbo guys: If you're looking to swap to a taller gear ratio, just go get yourself a carrier from an IS300. You want either an M98 (3.9 final drive) or M85 (3.7) code. These are the LSD variants for the automatic and manual IS300, respectively. Both of these are a direct swap into our cars, the only trick is to pop out the axle stubs (the wheels on the sides) as our axles simply spline straight into the carrier. You still may consider overhauling the carrier/differential depending on the condition yours is in, but otherwise you can stop reading here.
OPTIONAL - Donor Carrier
What I did to minimize my downtime was to obtain one of the carriers mentioned in the note above, and had my gears installed in that. Added bonus of having a second working carrier in case something goes Horribly Wrong.
Optional Cost: ~$300 depending on condition
Meat and Potatoes - Ring and Pinion
Give Spence a call at weirperformance.com. Tell him that you want an 8" ring and pinion set for a mark 3 Supra and that you intend to use it in an IS300 or FR-S/BRZ carrier. Then just make up your mind what ratio you want. He also sells a shim kit that I highly recommend for $15. It has all the shims you could possibly need to get the install right.
Cost: $225 for ring and pinion, $15 for shims, plus shipping
Fiddly Bits - Seals and Nuts
For these I just visited a couple different Toyota parts distributor sites. Here's the breakdown of what I got for my installation:
90179-20018 Pinion nut
41231-24010 Pinion spacer
90311-43009 Side seals (x 2)
41222-22010 Ring gear lock tabs (x 5)
90311-38070 Pinion seal
Note: My carrier was basically brand new so I didn't need to replace any bearings. These tend to be rather expensive (pinion bearing I think was about ~$80, not sure on side bearings). If you think you need to do the bearings, you may as well buy Spence's installation kit. It should contain all of these parts plus the bearings. Not sure on the price there though, but it's on par with acquiring the parts individually.
Other note: If you're looking to make Balls-Out Torques, you may consider getting a solid spacer in lieu of the OEM pinion spacer. Also available from Weir, also part of the installation kit.
Cost: ~$100 without bearings, plus shipping
Putting it together - Labor Cost
4 hours for the ring and pinion install, 2-3 hours for carrier install. I'd recommend a dedicated differential shop for this just because they should be guaranteed to get the setup dead on. Labor costs vary widely, and you could easily save a couple hundred bucks by installing the carrier in your car yourself. I chose to let the Professionals handle it all.
Cost: ~$700 if the shop does everything, ~$400 if you install your own carrier, $0 if you're a Professional
Price Breakdowns
Bare Minimum (just required parts, all installations done yourself): $350
Bare Minimum + ring and pinion installed by shop: ~$750
My Total (spare carrier, no bearings, all installation handled by shop): ~$1100
Theoretical Max (all parts, all services done by shop): ~$1500
So there you have it! Let me know if you think I missed anything or need further clarification on something. Big thanks to @37, @Jeff Lange and anyone else I may have forgotten for helping me figure out what ratio I wanted and what installation parts to buy.
Last edited by JS + XES; 01-08-2014 at 11:43 AM.
The following users liked this post:
civicdrivr (01-08-2014)
#139
Moderator
#140
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
#141
Moderator
#142
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
#143
Moderator
#144
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
I should purposely leave the back window alone this time.
#145
Moderator
#146
The sizzle in the Steak
#147
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
This is another picture of that kit. It looks good from the front. Other angles are a little too much. The Scion emblem needs to go on any of FRS though. It's just stupid. lol
I would never put something like this on my car though. I like keeping it clean and sleeper-ish.
I would never put something like this on my car though. I like keeping it clean and sleeper-ish.
#148
Some dude
No worries guys. I won't spend a dollar on cosmetic mods for a year or more. It honestly looks perfect at the moment.
I've made a side funding for mods. These are couple things I want:
- Wheels
- Tires
- Coilovers
- a lot of those suspension support mods
I likely won't touch the engine for a long time. If anything, I will go with a FI kit down the road.
I've made a side funding for mods. These are couple things I want:
- Wheels
- Tires
- Coilovers
- a lot of those suspension support mods
I likely won't touch the engine for a long time. If anything, I will go with a FI kit down the road.
Step 1: hella flush + stance
Step 2: Rocketbunny kit w/giant wing
Step 3: LOTS of stickers everywhere
Step 4: no engine mods whatsoever
THAT'S how you do it right.
The following 3 users liked this post by MeehowsBRZ:
#149
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Need dat air suspension kit yo. Keep it functional.
#150
Moderator
#151
Senior Moderator
Don't forget the Spoon sticker. And Mugen.
And Nismo. What the hell, get an M badge too.
And Nismo. What the hell, get an M badge too.
#152
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
If I add in M letter in front of BRZ, will you forgive me, yummy?
#153
Senior Moderator
#154
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Lunch. It was tasty.
That's the one.
at you're new name.
at the steps. It's hilarious because it's true
at the steps. It's hilarious because it's true
#155
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
This one can out-do anything you could think of.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17209
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17209
#157
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
I kinda like this. Will probably get something like this in the future. The duck-tail looking ones look much better than the stock one.
The following 2 users liked this post by JS + XES:
00TL-P3.2 (01-09-2014),
Undying Dreams (09-09-2015)
#158
I drive a Subata.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Morgan, is that tailight red/clear painted? That actually looks pretty good in the picture.
#159
Some dude
I wanted to match up to my ft86 name a bit more.
for the duck-tail. Just read up on what people have said before you buy one. I think this particular one has had some issues with cracking/fitment if memory serves me correctly.
(Subbing in for Morgan) Most likely. You can paint or do overlays. As someone who had overlays... I'd say painting them would be the way to go!
(Subbing in for Morgan) Most likely. You can paint or do overlays. As someone who had overlays... I'd say painting them would be the way to go!
The following users liked this post:
civicdrivr (01-09-2014)
#160
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)