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The wife and I are looking at a 2001 TL that looks just like this one. We were thinking about possibly getting rid of her Pathfinder and getting this as a replacement but she isnt totally sold on the idea. I have even given thought to getting rid of my RL and all its problems and going to the older simpler TL that doesnt have all the luxury features the RL has. It has a stereo that can be replaced with a aftermarket one and it has a Bose system as well with factory sub. I think repair costs would be much cheaper then the RL and selling my RL and buying this i would probably come out about $1000 or so ahead....which of course would be spent tinting the window and making a killer system in it....lol.
Nothing wrong with trying a TL . Finding one with decent miles will be tough, so I would recommend checking into the 3rd gen range (generation of mine). They have really gone down in price and many have been cared for decently. And if you have a problem with it, chances are someone in 3G has figured it out! Most of the guys over in the 3G forums are pretty passionate about these things haha. Here's an example of your average one near my city: https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/l-Used...ting=167105133
The one thing i like about the 2nd gen is its simplicity ,it doesnt have all bells and whistles like my RL does. It doesnt have navigation ,no stability assist ,no over complicated heater controls ,no tire inflation system. Thats where I think repair cost would be much cheaper on it then the RL.
Believe me I love my RL but half of the things i just mentioned dont work on mine ,and the cost of fixing it all would probably be about the same as just paying cash for the TL....lol.
I did make a post in the 2nd gen section and was warned that the transmissions were bad in them ,but they had recalls on them up to 100,000 miles so this one may have been fixed already. Looking up the VIN number doesnt show any open recalls.
Its at the car lot beside my house and i have seen it for a while but they just now put a price on it of $2995 and thats what caught my eye.
WDPinit, I saw your vid, sounds like you've got your system pretty dialed in, looks like it sounds good.
I just had a front door factory speaker go out and I can't really find anything to replace it with that will run on the stock amp well. I finally gave in and ordered another factory speaker.. It's kind of like you have to go all in and replace everything with new speakers/amps or just stick with stock on these "premium" factory systems.
Cyber, I remember this somewhat popular youtube honda/acura mechanic saying really bad things about that year TL. Something about them being the worst ever, especially on tranny's. Of course I don't have first hand experience but just thought I'd say something. Here's a link from his site, believe he is in Ohio as well. It's nice to pay cash for a car, but not nice when you have to make a descision if it' worth it or not to repair a car if the trans goes out. https://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena...tern-failurers
Yeah i think we are NOT going to get it ,the wife just really doesnt want to give up her Pathfinder. Its a really nice looking car but the horror stories are enough for me to steer away from it.
I am going to put a new battery in my RL and probably give it a tune up as well. I also need to decide if i want to tackle replacing the knock sensor or pay someone else to do it. Then i need to suck it up and order some acura AWD fluid and get the rear diff oil changed to see if it will make the AWD light go off. I am still up in the air about sending the navigation unit out for repair ,$400 is pricey in my book but i would really like to be able to adjust my heater controls and radio functions.
The knock sensor doesn't look too bad, looks like its just under the intake manifold? $400 for a repair, have you tried ebay/junk yard/ Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market If the issue is with the main unit that has the heater controls/radio it looks like those are going for about $150
yes the knock sensor is down under the manifold and intake ,and i dont think the knock sensor itself is bad i think its the sub wiring harness which costs under $10. We did some investigating to see if there was any way to get to the sensor without having to remove the intake and we found a rather large pile of mouse bedding down in the V part of the motor where the sensor sits. More then likely there has been a mouse that chewed thru the wires that run to the knock sensor.
And with my heater/radio functions its the navigation unit in the trunk that holds the disc that needs fixed not the actual dash piece. I guess its a pretty common problem on the RLs and you have to send them back to Alpine for repairs and i think they said its a flat rate of around $400. Using the auto controls for the heater its works but you have no control of fan speed and you cant switch between the floor ,dash ,and defrost vents...mine is stuck on defrost.
That wiring sounds like a PITA, damn rodents! Ahh, I can see those units going for like $350-$400, that sucks! I'm surprised that no one has figured out a DIY fix. I'd probably call them and ask exactly what they are going to do for $400, maybe they'll give some info on what the repair is so you can DIY or take it to a local electronic shop to fix for less?
I think $400 for the unit repair is a little much lol.
If any of you use fb on your phone, make sure to check out the marketplace tab! There are plenty of people selling subs and amps and even some good, rare stuff for cheap.
I found this browsing recently...
I have a paitr of punch HE 12's that look just like that sub :,my son has them in a old pair of pioneer tower speakers. They sound great with the Rockford amp i have.
Bchester6 i noticed in another post that the whining sound coming through the stereo is caused by a bad ground ,i wonder if thats whats causing my low pitch hum i am getting from my subs. I dont see it being the problem for two reasons but i wont rule it out ,for one mine doesnt do it all the time and secondly i made sure i used a good grounding spot with a nice sized bolt that could really be torqued down good. i also made sure to take a wire wheel on a drill and clean the spot real good down to bare metal to ensure its grounding good.
Can the whining signal also be picked up by the power wire?? The way i ran my power wire it runs right across my fuse panel and i am wondering if it might be picking up some interference from there. I get off work today at 1pm so i wouldnt mind trying to find the source of that stupid noise if its nice outside. And as much as i hate to do it i want to pull my rear seat back out and remove the rear shelf again and remove that stupid auto vent shade in the rear because i think thats where most of the rattles i have are coming from ,i never use the damn thing anyway. I may also unplug the factory sub because i think its doing some rattling as well at higher volume levels.
I just had a friend replace his MB Quart 2000w rms amp with a 4300w American Bass amp and i am gonna see if he will sell me his Mb Quart amp. The two 10's in the Acura can handle 1700 rms and its only got 650w running them now , that 2000w Mb Quart would really wake them subs up....lol.
Regrounding the HU to the amp ground source is what solved Dave's whining problem in his post. He still states that there is a slight background noise present which I heard when we met but didn't think was very significant. The engine whine was the obvious culprit and had to be dealt with quickly because those are not only incredibly annoying but they put undue stress on your amplifier. Yes all that extra noise in the signal chain is amplified by your components so they will contribute to it's faster death. Here is his post regarding it. Downsides
in my mind the audio system sounds way better than stock and i'm very very happy how it turned out. however i do have some noise that i could never solve, i tried filters, better rcas, rerouted rcas, etc but no effect, even took it to a few audio shops. recently i met a couple of local audio guys in the acura scene and they recommended i put a ground wire from the oem head unit to the aftermarket amp ground. i did that and even though the noise is still there, it did take away a slight engine whine and the sound is much clearer now. so in summary the noise is still there (white noise), but no one notices but me. overall very happy with it!
i will have to look up where my factory unit is grounded and give it a try. it still boggles me that it doesnt make the noise all the time , just when the car is first started.
Nice find on the sub!! you can make your money back by selling the enclosure to WD for his sub if its got more the 1cf of space....lol.
i will have to look up where my factory unit is grounded and give it a try. it still boggles me that it doesnt make the noise all the time , just when the car is first started.
Nice find on the sub!! you can make your money back by selling the enclosure to WD for his sub if its got more the 1cf of space....lol.
02-23-2017, 09:07 PM
. Finding one with decent miles will be tough, so I would recommend checking into the 3rd gen range (generation of mine). They have really gone down in price and many have been cared for decently. And if you have a problem with it, chances are someone in 3G has figured it out! Most of the guys over in the 3G forums are pretty passionate about these things haha. Here's an example of your average one near my city: https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/l-Used...ting=167105133
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