Alarm/Starter DIY
02-10-2009, 02:08 PM
#1
12volt Technician
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Location: Brantford Ontario
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Alarm/Starter DIY
This is a full DIY for a Remote starter/alarm for 1999 3.2TL
All of this information is being provided free of charge for DIY'ers, and I assume no responsibility for damage incurred to your vehicle as a result of poor wiring. If you are unsure or new to wiring you may want to disconnect your battery prior to wiring to prevent damage.
If you are unsure of anything consult a proffessional car stereo shop for installation!
Always test wires with a digital multimeter, DO NOT USE A TEST LIGHT as it can damage expensive onboard computer systems. The wires listed below have been checked on my 99 3.2tl and others in the shop, but it is always important to test as you go. NEVER UNCLIP,UNPLUG,STRIP,CUT OR EVEN TOUCH ANY YELOW HARNESSES. Airbags are expensive!
For all wires strip a small amount of insulation from the wire. Wrap the alarm wire around the car's wire tightly. Heat up with a soldering iron and apply solder to the wire, allow the solder to flow through the wire so you know it got good contact with the whole area not just the top. wrap with electrical tape until all the bare wire is insulated.
First to take the dash off from under the steering wheel remove the fuse panel cover and then 1 phillips screw, use a panel popper to gently pry the dash piece off. this will giove you access to the wiring.
OK, first your power harness.. the easy part
12+ White
Ignition Black/Yellow
Accessory 1 Yellow
Accessory 2 White/black
Starter Black/White
Now under the hood
Hood pin-it is recommended you install a hood pin, it's job is to prevent the remote starter from engaging while the hood is up. although not neccessary it is a good idea to have it.
use a simple metal bracket folded in a 90 degree angle and screw it to the rear of the engine bay on a flat part near the top, adjust the pin until it depresses when the hood is closed. try to leave about a .25" travel distance on the pin itself. 90% of comebacks are due to faulty hood pins.
Tach wire-on the acura there is a blue diagnosis wire under the hood right by the air intake on the driver shock tower. it will have a 1 pin connector. thats your tach wire. you can also use an odd colored injector wire, but the blue wire is much easier to get.
Siren Mount your siren facing down in a dry open spot under the hood, run and connect your wires inside.
Back inside the car
Parking Lights- Red/Black(+) you can find this wire coming out of the main harness under the dash, or near the top of the fusebox. It will test positive when you turn the park lights on, and rest at 0 volts.
Brake- White/black (+)coming right off the harness on the brake pedal. 0 volts at rest, 12 volts when brake is pressed.
Horn-Light green/blue (-) This is not neccessary but its your choice. coming right off the main harness under the steering wheel.
Door Locks- heres the fun part. the 3.2tl requires you to access the door locks inside the driver's door due to the door lock module being located there. to remove the panel pry off the circular cover by the door handle and then take out 1 phillips screw under the handle. unclip the rod going to the door handle and remove the piece. then remove another phillips screw from the middle handle of the door. gently unclip the door around the edges with a panel popper/ prytool. and then take it off. the wires you need will be at the large door lock module harness.
Lock Black/Blue negative pulse (-) this wire will rest at 12 volts and go to 0 volts when you press the lock button
Unlock Orange negative pulse (-) this wire will rest at 12 volts and go to 0 volts when you press the unlock button
Factory Disarm Blue or Black red(-) (depends where you test) negative pulse to test turn the key in the driver door and watch for the wire to go from 12volts to 0volts.
Trunk release White(+)positive Pulse the trunk release wire is located at the bottom of the fuse panel on the driver side. it is a positive pulse which means it'll rest at 0volts and go to 12volts when the trunk is released. Most alarms will require a relay to switch the negative pulse to a positive. Get a 5 pin relay and cut 87a. now 85 goes to constant 12volts and 86 goes to the trunk release from the alarm. 30 on the car and 87 goes to +12 constant. that will switch the negative alarm signal to a positive one for the release.
Door trigger Black/white (-) In a 4pin connector on the driver fuse panel. will rest at 12volts and go to 0volts when any of the doors are opened.
Trunk Trigger Orange (-) 10 pin grey connector under the drivers side dash by the fuse panel. this will rest at 12volts and go to 0volts when the trunk is opened.
Bypass module
All 99 tl's have a transponder antitheft system that will prevent remote starting unless it is bypassed.
I use Fortin bypass kits and they work great. I will leave this section out because all modules have different colors and they come with there own easy to follow instructions.
I hope thats everything any questions or suggestions let me know.
Mike
All of this information is being provided free of charge for DIY'ers, and I assume no responsibility for damage incurred to your vehicle as a result of poor wiring. If you are unsure or new to wiring you may want to disconnect your battery prior to wiring to prevent damage.
If you are unsure of anything consult a proffessional car stereo shop for installation!
Always test wires with a digital multimeter, DO NOT USE A TEST LIGHT as it can damage expensive onboard computer systems. The wires listed below have been checked on my 99 3.2tl and others in the shop, but it is always important to test as you go. NEVER UNCLIP,UNPLUG,STRIP,CUT OR EVEN TOUCH ANY YELOW HARNESSES. Airbags are expensive!
For all wires strip a small amount of insulation from the wire. Wrap the alarm wire around the car's wire tightly. Heat up with a soldering iron and apply solder to the wire, allow the solder to flow through the wire so you know it got good contact with the whole area not just the top. wrap with electrical tape until all the bare wire is insulated.
First to take the dash off from under the steering wheel remove the fuse panel cover and then 1 phillips screw, use a panel popper to gently pry the dash piece off. this will giove you access to the wiring.
OK, first your power harness.. the easy part
12+ White
Ignition Black/Yellow
Accessory 1 Yellow
Accessory 2 White/black
Starter Black/White
Now under the hood
Hood pin-it is recommended you install a hood pin, it's job is to prevent the remote starter from engaging while the hood is up. although not neccessary it is a good idea to have it.
use a simple metal bracket folded in a 90 degree angle and screw it to the rear of the engine bay on a flat part near the top, adjust the pin until it depresses when the hood is closed. try to leave about a .25" travel distance on the pin itself. 90% of comebacks are due to faulty hood pins.
Tach wire-on the acura there is a blue diagnosis wire under the hood right by the air intake on the driver shock tower. it will have a 1 pin connector. thats your tach wire. you can also use an odd colored injector wire, but the blue wire is much easier to get.
Siren Mount your siren facing down in a dry open spot under the hood, run and connect your wires inside.
Back inside the car
Parking Lights- Red/Black(+) you can find this wire coming out of the main harness under the dash, or near the top of the fusebox. It will test positive when you turn the park lights on, and rest at 0 volts.
Brake- White/black (+)coming right off the harness on the brake pedal. 0 volts at rest, 12 volts when brake is pressed.
Horn-Light green/blue (-) This is not neccessary but its your choice. coming right off the main harness under the steering wheel.
Door Locks- heres the fun part. the 3.2tl requires you to access the door locks inside the driver's door due to the door lock module being located there. to remove the panel pry off the circular cover by the door handle and then take out 1 phillips screw under the handle. unclip the rod going to the door handle and remove the piece. then remove another phillips screw from the middle handle of the door. gently unclip the door around the edges with a panel popper/ prytool. and then take it off. the wires you need will be at the large door lock module harness.
Lock Black/Blue negative pulse (-) this wire will rest at 12 volts and go to 0 volts when you press the lock button
Unlock Orange negative pulse (-) this wire will rest at 12 volts and go to 0 volts when you press the unlock button
Factory Disarm Blue or Black red(-) (depends where you test) negative pulse to test turn the key in the driver door and watch for the wire to go from 12volts to 0volts.
Trunk release White(+)positive Pulse the trunk release wire is located at the bottom of the fuse panel on the driver side. it is a positive pulse which means it'll rest at 0volts and go to 12volts when the trunk is released. Most alarms will require a relay to switch the negative pulse to a positive. Get a 5 pin relay and cut 87a. now 85 goes to constant 12volts and 86 goes to the trunk release from the alarm. 30 on the car and 87 goes to +12 constant. that will switch the negative alarm signal to a positive one for the release.
Door trigger Black/white (-) In a 4pin connector on the driver fuse panel. will rest at 12volts and go to 0volts when any of the doors are opened.
Trunk Trigger Orange (-) 10 pin grey connector under the drivers side dash by the fuse panel. this will rest at 12volts and go to 0volts when the trunk is opened.
Bypass module
All 99 tl's have a transponder antitheft system that will prevent remote starting unless it is bypassed.
I use Fortin bypass kits and they work great. I will leave this section out because all modules have different colors and they come with there own easy to follow instructions.
I hope thats everything any questions or suggestions let me know.
Mike
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BigTzzy (03-23-2015)
02-10-2009, 02:20 PM
#4
Senior Moderator
Nice. Added to the DIY page.
02-10-2009, 08:15 PM
#6
There's no Acura in
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Great writeup Audiovibe; was debating whether I wanted an aftermarket alarm so I could get some more sensors (to my knowledge the OEM alarm is simply based on door/trunk triggers?). I now know what thread to go to if I go through with it. Took me a while to install my alarm on my old car...especially when you have to keep running to radioshack ever 20 minutes 
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