Very Detailed install of VIPER 5901 with Remote Start
10-04-2010, 04:53 PM
#81
I got my xk01 and the pkh34 and I started prepping all the wiring before I'm gonna do the install, just taping up the unused wires as per this diy. I wanna hook up the defog hook up and the horn honk hook up as well. Do I just tap the wire for each to the cars' respective wires? Like do I wire the defog wire to the positive side of the car defog wire? Also will the horns go off with the alarm when it goes off if I do the horn honk wire?
10-05-2010, 12:00 PM
#82
Advanced
I got my xk01 and the pkh34 and I started prepping all the wiring before I'm gonna do the install, just taping up the unused wires as per this diy. I wanna hook up the defog hook up and the horn honk hook up as well. Do I just tap the wire for each to the cars' respective wires? Like do I wire the defog wire to the positive side of the car defog wire? Also will the horns go off with the alarm when it goes off if I do the horn honk wire?
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-94/viper-5902-remote-start-774354/
I've tried searching more, but can't find the post... I remember reading about how to wire the defroster, because ideally you'd want to trigger the car to activate it (so it goes on it's 10 minute timer and shuts off or whatever) rather than tap directly into the defroster wire (although maybe it's the same?).
I'll keep searching and see if I can find that post... I don't remember if it was here or on 12volt
10-05-2010, 12:57 PM
#83
Race Director
I got my xk01 and the pkh34 and I started prepping all the wiring before I'm gonna do the install, just taping up the unused wires as per this diy. I wanna hook up the defog hook up and the horn honk hook up as well. Do I just tap the wire for each to the cars' respective wires? Like do I wire the defog wire to the positive side of the car defog wire? Also will the horns go off with the alarm when it goes off if I do the horn honk wire?
85 -200mA pulsed from viper (wire #5 of the remote start aux output)
86 +12V
30 tapped to black wire on defog switch (or any ground)
87 tapped to yel wire on defog switch (D7).
Works like a champ!
10-05-2010, 05:44 PM
#84
I found this out by experimenting. The clutch bypass can be done with the Status output.
There are 2 switches on the clutch. One for the Starter is yellow switch and connect the status output 200ma to the Green wire.
There are 2 switches on the clutch. One for the Starter is yellow switch and connect the status output 200ma to the Green wire.
10-05-2010, 06:33 PM
#85
Race Director
Anything that gives a ground (negative) will do it, but I'd use the -200mA starter output wire that I PM'd you because that will de-energize when the start sequence is complete.
I'm not sure about those other status outputs (as far as how long they stay hot). You only need the signal during start, which is exactly what the negative starter output gives you.
If you use the status output and it continues to stay hot after start, you're needlessly energizing the starter cutout relay...
I'm not sure about those other status outputs (as far as how long they stay hot). You only need the signal during start, which is exactly what the negative starter output gives you.
If you use the status output and it continues to stay hot after start, you're needlessly energizing the starter cutout relay...
10-06-2010, 11:39 AM
#86
You have to take the center console apart and get access to the back of the Display Control Unit (behind the navi screen) and the green 16-pin connector that has the rear defog switch wiring. You'll need a relay:
85 -200mA pulsed from viper (wire #5 of the remote start aux output)
86 +12V
30 tapped to black wire on defog switch (or any ground)
87 tapped to yel wire on defog switch (D7).
Works like a champ!
85 -200mA pulsed from viper (wire #5 of the remote start aux output)
86 +12V
30 tapped to black wire on defog switch (or any ground)
87 tapped to yel wire on defog switch (D7).
Works like a champ!
Also exactly which wire is #5 are you referring to the #5 in the 18 pin harness? and what about the horn honk?
10-06-2010, 12:30 PM
#87
Race Director
I'd use constant.
You have the new harness. It's H2/16.
Yeah, just tap it to the green/yellow wire in connector 302 under the left side of the dash (see scans). You can also access that wire up at the steering column, but I think the under dash connector is easier. Can't remember for sure, but I believe you will also have to program the unit to do horn honk in addition to the siren.
I highly recommend purchasing the Electrical Troubleshooting Manual. Well worth the money.
Do you have TL wiring info? There are links on the12volt.com and here is one from bulldog:
http://64.85.6.121/diagrams/diagram....6&link=BULLDOG
Yeah, just tap it to the green/yellow wire in connector 302 under the left side of the dash (see scans). You can also access that wire up at the steering column, but I think the under dash connector is easier. Can't remember for sure, but I believe you will also have to program the unit to do horn honk in addition to the siren.
I highly recommend purchasing the Electrical Troubleshooting Manual. Well worth the money.
Do you have TL wiring info? There are links on the12volt.com and here is one from bulldog:
http://64.85.6.121/diagrams/diagram....6&link=BULLDOG
10-06-2010, 01:05 PM
#88
I'd use constant.
You have the new harness. It's H2/16.
Yeah, just tap it to the green/yellow wire in connector 302 under the left side of the dash (see scans). You can also access that wire up at the steering column, but I think the under dash connector is easier. Can't remember for sure, but I believe you will also have to program the unit to do horn honk in addition to the siren.
I highly recommend purchasing the Electrical Troubleshooting Manual. Well worth the money.
Do you have TL wiring info? There are links on the12volt.com and here is one from bulldog:
http://64.85.6.121/diagrams/diagram....6&link=BULLDOG
You have the new harness. It's H2/16.
Yeah, just tap it to the green/yellow wire in connector 302 under the left side of the dash (see scans). You can also access that wire up at the steering column, but I think the under dash connector is easier. Can't remember for sure, but I believe you will also have to program the unit to do horn honk in addition to the siren.
I highly recommend purchasing the Electrical Troubleshooting Manual. Well worth the money.
Do you have TL wiring info? There are links on the12volt.com and here is one from bulldog:
http://64.85.6.121/diagrams/diagram....6&link=BULLDOG
10-06-2010, 03:03 PM
#90
Race Director
No, status output signal stays on for the entire remote start runtime (or until key is inserted and brake pedal pushed after remote start), not just the start sequence.
Last edited by nfnsquared; 10-06-2010 at 03:13 PM.
10-07-2010, 12:39 PM
#91
Quick General ques. Do you guys think it would be better to have this Viper remote starter installed by the guys at Best Buy OR should i just take it to the dealer? Would the guys at the dealership know more / less? granted, i would prolly end up paying more overall at the dealership.....
thoughts?
thoughts?
10-07-2010, 12:46 PM
#92
Race Director
Quick General ques. Do you guys think it would be better to have this Viper remote starter installed by the guys at Best Buy OR should i just take it to the dealer? Would the guys at the dealership know more / less? granted, i would prolly end up paying more overall at the dealership.....
thoughts?
thoughts?
With BestBuy, it depends on who is doing the work. Some guys are really good, others are hacks. I'd drop buy and ask to speak with the actual installer and get a feel for his experience/expertise.
10-12-2010, 09:38 AM
#94
Race Director
Answered in your other thread:
On the 2004 TL, the tach wires come into connector E (white) at terminals E15-E20.
E15-BRN/WHT
E16-BLK/RED
E17-BRN
E18-WHT/BLU
E19-BLU/RED
E20-YEL/GRN
Don't need it, controlled through canbus (assuming you are still using door-lock interface unit, e.g. an XK01 or similar). All the items it controls are listed in the manual for the unit. Also, read the third paragraph of the very first post in this thread again.
On the 2004 TL, the tach wires come into connector E (white) at terminals E15-E20.
E15-BRN/WHT
E16-BLK/RED
E17-BRN
E18-WHT/BLU
E19-BLU/RED
E20-YEL/GRN
Don't need it, controlled through canbus (assuming you are still using door-lock interface unit, e.g. an XK01 or similar). All the items it controls are listed in the manual for the unit. Also, read the third paragraph of the very first post in this thread again.
Last edited by nfnsquared; 10-12-2010 at 09:41 AM.
10-17-2010, 08:05 PM
#95
Ok I got the alarm in today but hit a snag. I for some reason can't program the alarm. I think I locked the unit out according to viper. Plus I need to pair the LCD fob because it's a new one rather then the one that came paired already. I did all the wiring exactly to the "T". So is there anyway to unlock it to program it or do I really need a bitwriter like the instructions say. I think I'm just gonna go to a viper installer to program everything and to double check my work. But I know all the wiring is right.
10-17-2010, 08:28 PM
#96
Race Director
Ok I got the alarm in today but hit a snag. I for some reason can't program the alarm. I think I locked the unit out according to viper. Plus I need to pair the LCD fob because it's a new one rather then the one that came paired already. I did all the wiring exactly to the "T". So is there anyway to unlock it to program it or do I really need a bitwriter like the instructions say. I think I'm just gonna go to a viper installer to program everything and to double check my work. But I know all the wiring is right.
So I'm going to say that something else is wrong (unless you bought the Viper used and the previous owner locked it with a Bitwriter and didn't tell you).
What exactly are you trying to program?
Last edited by nfnsquared; 10-17-2010 at 08:31 PM.
10-17-2010, 08:39 PM
#97
As far as I know, you couldn't have locked yourself out. A bitwriter is required to "lock" the system preventing anyone from programming it via the valet switch. Once the programming is locked with a bitwriter, a bitwriter is required to either program it or unlock it so that the valet switch may be used to program. You can't lock the system without a bitwriter.
So I'm going to say that something else is wrong (unless you bought the Viper used and the previous owner locked it with a Bitwriter and didn't tell you).
What exactly are you trying to program?
So I'm going to say that something else is wrong (unless you bought the Viper used and the previous owner locked it with a Bitwriter and didn't tell you).
What exactly are you trying to program?
10-17-2010, 08:41 PM
#98
Race Director
The alarm wasn't used that's for certain. They had to give me another LCD fob cause the original wasn't in the box cause one of the guys took it out rather then getting a replacement one. I need to pair the remote and then setup the alarm to remote start and defog and what ever other features I am gonna set such as temp and runtime.
10-17-2010, 08:58 PM
#100
At one point the alarm was working even with the oem fob then it stopped. I dont know if I should unplug everything and reset anything like the xk01 and the pkh34 also is there supposed to be 2 jumper clips on the brain ya know the d2d jumpers. I couldve sworn there were two but I only have one. Maybe that's an issue? I knowmy wiring is good. An as I was following the diy everything did as said it would as per the diy. I did jump the gun and key start the car rather do what the last part of the diy said as to programming.
10-17-2010, 09:05 PM
#101
Race Director
At one point the alarm was working even with the oem fob then it stopped. I dont know if I should unplug everything and reset anything like the xk01 and the pkh34 also is there supposed to be 2 jumper clips on the brain ya know the d2d jumpers. I couldve sworn there were two but I only have one. Maybe that's an issue? I knowmy wiring is good. An as I was following the diy everything did as said it would as per the diy. I did jump the gun and key start the car rather do what the last part of the diy said as to programming.
You need both jumpers and they need to be in the vertical position to program and to run D2D with an external module. That could be your problem.
10-17-2010, 09:14 PM
#102
Then the jumpers are the issue cause I did have both of those for sure Im certain it fell off when I pulled the brain back out it's probably logged in between wires. I thought I was losing my mind but I know I had both of them on the brain. The place I bought the alarm has never screwed me before on anything. They do get lazy though when it comes to going to their storage room for things so they probably sold the original from my box to someone. I've never had a problem with them. And I bought amps and speakers and stuff even my kenwood flip out screen that I had in my teg. I really think I did something wrong somewhere. The companion fob arms and disarms the alarm I did try to remote start but got nothing. I do appreciate all your help btw!
10-17-2010, 09:21 PM
#103
Race Director
Then the jumpers are the issue cause I did have both of those for sure Im certain it fell off when I pulled the brain back out it's probably logged in between wires. I thought I was losing my mind but I know I had both of them on the brain. The place I bought the alarm has never screwed me before on anything. They do get lazy though when it comes to going to their storage room for things so they probably sold the original from my box to someone. I've never had a problem with them. And I bought amps and speakers and stuff even my kenwood flip out screen that I had in my teg. I really think I did something wrong somewhere. The companion fob arms and disarms the alarm I did try to remote start but got nothing. I do appreciate all your help btw!
Are you 6MT?
10-17-2010, 09:32 PM
#105
Race Director
10-17-2010, 09:42 PM
#107
Race Director
If you (or a neighbor) have any old computer boards or hard drives laying around, they might have a jumper on them. Also, the hard drive in your computer might have an unused jumper on it (usually a horizontal jumper on a hard drive indicates an unused jumper).
10-17-2010, 09:45 PM
#108
Race Director
Pg 31...
10-17-2010, 09:54 PM
#110
Race Director
Yeah. Heck, they ought to have several laying around in the back room that they could give you for free. The shop you bought it from should have one as well. And any computer repair shop should have one laying around.
10-18-2010, 07:44 PM
#111
Ok here's an update... I took the car to a viper installer and they were actually very surprised how well I did on the install. Anyway the guy programmed the remote and figured out what the issue was which was the brain was reading the doors constant open. Dunno how or why but whatever. He told me that we don't need to use both the xk01 and the pkh34 instead we can just use the xk05 which does the job of both. Well everything was working good but when I got home the car threw a cel and now the viper remote is not locking the doors. I have to use the oem fob then the viper remote to arm/disarm. So I'm gonna have to go back tomorrow and see what can be done.
10-19-2010, 12:59 PM
#112
Ok here's an update... I took the car to a viper installer and they were actually very surprised how well I did on the install. Anyway the guy programmed the remote and figured out what the issue was which was the brain was reading the doors constant open. Dunno how or why but whatever. He told me that we don't need to use both the xk01 and the pkh34 instead we can just use the xk05 which does the job of both. Well everything was working good but when I got home the car threw a cel and now the viper remote is not locking the doors. I have to use the oem fob then the viper remote to arm/disarm. So I'm gonna have to go back tomorrow and see what can be done.
I got the xko5 thing wrong. It is only for the transponder not the doors. Anyway in the end I'm having the installer fix up my dilemma. I give myself a pat on the back though for a great install up until this point. I think my problem lies with in the pkh34 or the xk01 though. The issue seems to be that the cars' factory alarm is in confliction with the viper. And I think the code it threw was for that cause I'm not getting any messages on the navi so I know it's not major. I think I didn't program them correctly or something so either way I'm taking the car to the installer tomorrow forking over $200 to have him take out my work, which I think he's gonna only take out some of it, and re-wire up the alarm using the xk05 and hard wire in the doors and such. I did my best but hey you can't win everytime right?! nfnsquared you've been a big help the whole time and for that I say thanks
I should've just paid to have it done from jump but whatever now. lesson learned!
10-19-2010, 01:25 PM
#113
Race Director
newly updated I got the xko5 thing wrong. It is only for the transponder not the doors. Anyway in the end I'm having the installer fix up my dilemma. I give myself a pat on the back though for a great install up until this point. I think my problem lies with in the pkh34 or the xk01 though. The issue seems to be that the cars' factory alarm is in confliction with the viper. And I think the code it threw was for that cause I'm not getting any messages on the navi so I know it's not major. I think I didn't program them correctly or something so either way I'm taking the car to the installer tomorrow forking over $200 to have him take out my work, which I think he's gonna only take out some of it, and re-wire up the alarm using the xk05 and hard wire in the doors and such. I did my best but hey you can't win everytime right?!
nfnsquared you've been a big help the whole time and for that I say thanks I should've just paid to have it done from jump but whatever now. lesson learned!
I got the xko5 thing wrong. It is only for the transponder not the doors. Anyway in the end I'm having the installer fix up my dilemma. I give myself a pat on the back though for a great install up until this point. I think my problem lies with in the pkh34 or the xk01 though. The issue seems to be that the cars' factory alarm is in confliction with the viper. And I think the code it threw was for that cause I'm not getting any messages on the navi so I know it's not major. I think I didn't program them correctly or something so either way I'm taking the car to the installer tomorrow forking over $200 to have him take out my work, which I think he's gonna only take out some of it, and re-wire up the alarm using the xk05 and hard wire in the doors and such. I did my best but hey you can't win everytime right?! nfnsquared you've been a big help the whole time and for that I say thanks
I should've just paid to have it done from jump but whatever now. lesson learned!At any rate, good luck with the outcome. The Viper is a solid RS/Alarm!
10-23-2010, 05:22 PM
#114
Consumr.Whore
I'm so glad this community is here with anything and everything there is to know and do with our cars. I'm considering a remote starter for my 05, and though I'm good with work like this, I think I'm going to let the pro's handle this job from vicarious experiences here 
I have just spoke with a BB installer for s&g's and been made aware of the Flashlogic FLCAN or FLDL1 which is supposed combine door lock interface & immobilizer override into one device.
Does anyone have any experiences or thoughts on this?
http://flash-it.com/
Also from the XpressKit's website:
How is the [ XK05 vs PKH43 ] for transponder override and how's [ XK09 vs XK01 ] for doorlock modules?
----------------------
FLCAN Multi-Platform Canbus enabled doorlock interface, immobilizer override. * Firmware download required
FLDL1 Doorlock interface, immobilizer override. All supported vehicle integration software in one download
----------------------
also just brought up in this thread
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-94/viper-5902-alarm-features-795702/
I have just spoke with a BB installer for s&g's and been made aware of the Flashlogic FLCAN or FLDL1 which is supposed combine door lock interface & immobilizer override into one device.
Does anyone have any experiences or thoughts on this?
http://flash-it.com/
Also from the XpressKit's website:
How is the [ XK05 vs PKH43 ] for transponder override and how's [ XK09 vs XK01 ] for doorlock modules?
----------------------
FLCAN Multi-Platform Canbus enabled doorlock interface, immobilizer override. * Firmware download required
FLDL1 Doorlock interface, immobilizer override. All supported vehicle integration software in one download
----------------------
also just brought up in this thread
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-94/viper-5902-alarm-features-795702/
10-24-2010, 05:16 PM
#115
Consumr.Whore
Local installer recommended DBALL - Databus All Interface Module for a transponder bypass and door lock module all in one to keep the cost down.
What do you guys think?
http://www.xpresskit.com/product.aspx?productid=461
Danke!
What do you guys think?
http://www.xpresskit.com/product.aspx?productid=461
Danke!
11-01-2010, 12:44 AM
#117
Consumr.Whore
Got an experienced local installer good with DEI and Xpresskits, DBALL is recommended as a door lock and immobilizer bypass combined module. Installed costs are also very good. Now I just need to save a little and pony up the dough for the install!
http://kcsr.org/showthread.php?t=77214
http://kcsr.org/showthread.php?t=77214
12-27-2010, 07:35 PM
#120
I am planning on using a CANMAX400DEI with my Viper 5301. Since the Canmax is docked in the Viper do you run wires from the canmax? If so, could someone please post the wiring.
