jhal

I just installed a 400w amp with a 10-inch sub and with the extra bass, I have periodic rattles in the rear deck. It sounds like plastic to plastic rattles or plastic to window rattles, but unsure. I tried to isolate the source of the rattles by poking around the deck from the back seat and also from the trunk, but I couldn't identify exactly from where they were coming. All I could tell is that it was in the rear deck somewhere. I was hoping to identify where the rattles are so that I could fix them by adding felt material between the contact areas.

For those of you that have installed aftermarket amplifiers and subwoofers, have you run into a rattling problem that is associated with the increase in bass?

If so, what specific areas on your RL were causing the rattles? (I know this could vary from car to car based on a number of factors, but it could give me a good starting point.)

Also, for those of you that were able to fix the rattles, did you need to remove any of the upper trunk carpet (below the rear deck) or actual rear deck covering to find them? I only removed a little of the upper trunk carpet to inspect the deck from below, but need to know which way I should tackle this before I tear a lot more out.

Any other suggestions you might have?

Thanks in advance for your help!

DavNyc3

wow your lucky cause my 12w7 hums the whole time while the engine is running g/l my car sounds the same i would say dynamat ?

jhal

If it hums the entire time, it could be your rear Active Noice Control (ANC)...did you by chance disconnect your rear ANC mic? If you already disconnected your rear ANC mic, it could be something else. If you haven't disconnected the rear ANC mic yet, do it, and it will get rid of the hum.

My problem isn't a a constant hum, it is just a a periodic rattle when the sub hits the louder more pronounced sounds.

Chas2

Could be this

http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/SB/B05-030.pdf

MSCS

You have to dampen the metal surfaces with a sound deadening material such as DynaMat. This will also make the sub sound better since the trunk becomes essentially another subwoofer enclosure.

jhal

Cool, thanks for the link. I'll try this to see if it fixes my rattle. But, the question is, how do I remove the rear shelf as directed in the service bulletin from the link? The bulletin says to:

"1. Remove the rear shelf:
• Refer to page 20-79 of the 2005 RL Service
Manual, or
• Online, enter keywords REAR SHELF, and
select Interior Trim Removal/Installation -
Rear Shelf Area from the list."

I don't have a Service Manual or know how to access one online. Any suggestions?

jhal

Nevermind, it looks like it is located in the garage.

jhal

Thanks Chas!!!!

I finally had time to tackle this project over the weekend. I was a little intimidated by how much I needed to take apart to get the to rear shelf, but once I got in and did it, it was not a problem and a lot quicker than I was expecting. Although the link with the SB isn't working, I remembered enough of it to remember where I needed to apply the felt material. I've been driving for a few days now with it (while blasting my sub) and the felt applied to the areas from the SB seems to have fixed my rattling problems! Thanks again!

parkmead

I actually have 2 10" and I do hear rattles. Can you show exactly where to put the felt and dynamat? Thanks in advance

Are El

You can line the rear quarter panels, rear deack, and trunk lid. Or, play the sub, get out of your car, walk around the trunk, and pinpoint the spot of the rattles. Slap some Dynamat on the section that rattles.

It will sound better if you just line as much as you can. The trunk is essentially a woofer box.

T-jay

i have a 15" kicker solobaric and a RF power 1000 amp in the trunk. I dont have any rattle. Not that i would hear it if i did, lmao! try checking the rear curtain. and see if it rattles with the rear deck cover removed. Dynamat is your friend also.

jhal

My rattles were coming from the rear edge (underside near the window) of the rear shelf. This edge sits on a metal ledge that is not visible unless you remove the entire shelf. When I put felt on the underside of this edge and put everything back together, it fixed my problems. (I no longer hear the rattles from the metal egde vibrating against the edge of the shelf.) Basically, if your rattle is the same as mine, padding the underside of the rear edge should fix the rattles. I also padded a couple contact points from the rear shade, but I don't think these were where my rattles were.

To get the rear shelf out, you need to remove the rear seat and some of the C-pillar trim. You can find instructions on how to do this in the garage under the Interior Trim pdf. When you remove the C-pillar trim, there are two clips you need to replace, since you need to break these clips to remove the trim. The part # for the clips is 91561-SJK-003. They're only a couple bucks each, but you'll want to get these before the teardown.

Hopefully, this helps. If we ever get access to the TSBs again, the pictures on the related one shows the places I applied the felt. Let me know I can help with any futher clarification.

jhal

Here are some pics of what I padded to fix my rattles:

The top side of the rear shelf and the bottom side of the rear shelf. The yellow arrows indicate where I placed the felt material (the felt is white)


Also, here's a couple shots of the rear deck with the rear shelf out. You can see the metal ledge that the shelf sits on



As I mentioned in an earlier post, you need to remove some of the C-pillar trim to get the shelf out. Here is the piece of trip that requires a new clip (also pictured).

robgen

how did you get the rear deck out, i have an 06' and im having trouble, also in what way did you hook the amp using the original radio ?

jhal

I used the ‘PAC SNI-35 2-CH Adjustable Line out Output Converter’ to connect to the sub wires coming out of the stock amp.

To get the rear deck out, you need to remove the rear seat, and then remove some of the C-pillar trim.

The Acura RL Garage (https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-rl-2005-2012-76/garage-helpful-2g-rl-info-789209/) under the link titled ‘Acura RL Service Manual Courtesy Mark1980’ contains pdf documents detailing how to remove these items. Below are the pdf’s you need to use:

To remove the rear seat refer to SEATS.pdf => REAR SEAT REMOVAL/INSTALLATION (pages 35-37)

To remove the C-Pillar trim refer to INTERIOR TRIM.pdf => C-PILLAR TRIM (pages 16-22)

To remove the rear shelf refer to INTERIOR TRIM.pdf => TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION - REAR SHELF AREA (pages 22-24)

Hopefully, this will help. If you’re unable to find the above documents or need additional help, let me know. I’ll be glad to help.

AchewWonPurrSinner

It was surprisingly easy to fix, I just had to lock myself in the trunk with a flashlight to determine which contact points to manipulate. In my O2 RL there are six or seven plastic locking tabs where the bumper meets the trunk gasket. There are also two cone shaped rubber stoppers that appeared to be secondary contact points for the trunk lid. I removed the two cone shaped rubber stoppers from the lid then I removed two of the double click plastic caps from the bumper, immediately to the left and the right of the trunk latch. I used double-sided 1/16" thick foam tape to temporarily fasten the rubber stoppers to the new cavities in the bumper, by cutting a hole in the tape and pressed the stopper firmly to the bumper. Then I started adding layers of tape to the trunk lid right above the rubber stoppers until the trunk latched tightly against my new contact points. I don't know how long it will last, but it works for now. No more rattle.

HEAVY_RL

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